The Steam Heritage Trail

Thursday 9th April 2026

My knee started to hurt on the previous day’s walk. I don’t know what I had done to aggravate it because it started to hurt as soon as I started the walk and it just got worse as the day progressed. At the start of this walk my knee was feeling stiff and ideally I should have been resting it, but I find that difficult to do when I’m on holiday and the only thing I want to do is walk. Since the weather had deteriorated I felt that I could rest it by doing a relatively easy walk by walking along the Steam Heritage Trail, which runs along the course of an old railway that used to run between the city of Douglas, on the Isle of Man, and the town of Peel. I wanted to do this trail when I first came to the Isle of Man last year, but I felt it was too easy when there are many more exciting walks to do on this wondrous island. Now, with the poor weather and my dodgy knee, I thought this would be the best time to do it, so with drizzle in the air I made my way through Douglas from my accommodation to Quarter Bridge where I joined the start of the trial, which initially runs along a tarmac road alongside the busy main road. After I left the road, plunging into gorgeous woodland surroundings, wild garlic dominated the scene, though it wasn’t in flower yet, unlike at Easter last year. Wood anemones could also be seen and at Union Mills I could see some early flowering bluebells, as well as primroses and celandines.

The trail never strayed far from the River Dhoo and the best displays were often on its banks. Soon, the rain cleared and after passing Glen Vine blue sky appeared ahead of me, however, it wasn’t to last. Walking along an old railway line soon gets monotonous as there is little change in the view and the gradient is flat, which was helping my knee, but was tedious to walk upon. With nothing to interest me I just disengaged my brain and kept repeatedly putting one foot in front of the other, appreciating the wild scenery as it passed. Between Crosby and Greeba the ground by the side of the path was very water-logged, marshy, which helped the growth of marsh marigold whose bright, yellow flowers provided a welcome decoration. After passing St Johns, soon after passing over the River Neb, I branched right off the trail, despite having several more miles to go into Peel, to follow the course of the old railway line that used to run up the coast, around the hills and eventually reach the town of Ramsey. The Steam Heritage Trail had kept to the low ground between the hills in the north of the island and those to the south, largely running beside rivers and had a good hard surface underfoot, suitable for cycles. 

This path was very different, being grassy and passed through hillier terrain, dominated by farmland. It was lined by hawthorn and gorse and more railway engineering was required on this branch with cuttings and embankments often encountered as the old railway cut through the undulating farmland. Eventually I was joined by the coastal footpath, Raad ny Foillan, but despite the proximity of the sea the scenery wasn’t much better as the rain fell again, albeit briefly, until eventually I reached Glen Mooar where the railway used to cross the deep valley on an impressive viaduct, but this has sadly gone with just the tall, stone pillars remaining in remembrance. I wanted to explore the valley so instead of following the coastal path onto the beach I turned inland on a path that took me through gorgeous woodland, though my knees screamed at having to climb the side of the valley. Even though the woodland floor was filled with many green plants, none of the wild flowers were actually flowering, though I’m sure they were a few short weeks later. At the top of the path I could hear a noisy waterfall and a path led me steeply down to the foot of Spooyt Vane in its stunning woodland surround. After taking a few pictures I climbed back up the steep path, doing everything I could to ease the pressure on my knees, until I reached a lane that took me out of the valley and back onto the course of the railway. 

Soon, I reached another valley, Glen Wyllin, where a steep descent brought me down to the banks of the river and a caravan park where I found a path that led me back up the side of the valley, firing up my glutes on the steep ascent. The path continued into Cooildarry Nature Reserve, which was a great valley filled with many wondrous delights, enlivened by the sun coming out at just this moment. Unfortunately I felt I needed to rush to catch a bus so I didn't linger, walking briskly through the fabulous scenery until I finally climbed out of the valley and onto the road just outside Kirk Michael. These two valleys were a treat after my long walk along the old railway line and, apart from a few complaints in the glens at the end, my knees were quiet. Despite poor weather for most of the day I was able to do a great walk through some fabulous wild scenery.

Slieau Freoghane and the Millennium Way

Wednesday 8th April 2026

The forecast for this day was for a significant easing of the strong, cold winds that had afflicted me so far, this Easter, on the Isle of Man, so I was keen to take advantage by staying up high in the hills for as long as possible. Therefore, I decided to follow part of the Millennium Way, which was created to celebrate the one thousandth anniversary of the Isle of Man parliament in 1979. On the previous day I had walked along the first couple of miles of the trail through Silverdale Glen, before leaving it to its tedious course along the minor B35 road. I now picked it up again in the small village of Crosby as it began to climb towards the hills in the northern half of the Manx island. However, when the Millennium Way began to descend into the valley of West Baldwin I kept climbing following a track that took me into the hills across the eastern slopes of Slieau Ruy. There hadn’t been a cloud in the sky when I got up in the city of Douglas but tragically it had now clouded over, though the winds were gentle, as promised. I still enjoyed the walk, despite the poor views, rejoicing in the light winds, and relished the climb even when I missed a turning and had to cross the heather-covered, pathless slopes to get back on the clear path. I walked briskly, devouring the miles, passing the slight rise of Lhargee Ruy on the northern ridge of Slieau Ruy, past two cairns and across the western slopes of Colden.

At the col with Slieau Maggle I came onto a clear track that helped me up my pace even more until I reached a minor road where a rocky path climbed beside a plantation before the gradient eased and I finally branched off the track to reach the summit of Slieau Freoghane, which is the highest point in this range of hills, but the most surprising feature of this hill is that the summit is adorned with a trig point, a cairn and a bell, erected on a short pole. I gave this a gentle ring and took a few pictures before setting off along the ridge to rejoin the track where I actually turned right to head back the way I’d come, before turning sharp right to turn north again and continue along the eastern side of the ridge passing Slieau Dhoo. The grey, overcast skies now began to clear revealing blue skies and the sun, which was most unexpected, but welcome, while a dark cloud lingered over Snaefell with Sulby Reservoir in the valley between. In the sunshine, this was fabulous walking, so I was enjoying myself immensely until eventually I reached a road where I soon turned right onto a track with views ahead of me towards Snaefell while I descended, increasingly steeply, into a conifer plantation, which was painful, not just in my knees, but also in the knowledge that I would have to climb back up again.

When I reached the bottom of Sulby Glen I discovered that the path I wanted to take up Tholt-y-Will Glen was closed, which was really frustrating as I had deliberately come all this way instead of sticking to the Millennium Way just so I could take this walk through the wooded valley. I considered climbing over the locked gate, but prudently turned around and walked up the road past Sulby Reservoir. It was distressing for me to see dozens of discarded cans and bottles beside the road, as I can’t imagine how anyone could be so thoughtless as to toss these things from their cars. The sunshine had proved to be short-lived with Snaefell, ahead of me, now hiding within the clouds as I slowly climbed up the road until I reached the Millennium Way, which, while I had been elsewhere, had climbed out of West Baldwin and crossed between the hills of Carraghan and Beinn-y-Phott. Looking south I could not see any sign of the path but a clear track headed north, though it wasn’t long before it branched off to cross the slopes of Snaefell, as the skies brightened again, on a vague, often muddy path. I was disappointed by the lack of investment in maintaining the footpath of the Millennium Way, which indicates that it doesn’t get many people walking on it, and at least then it would be clearer.

The ground became increasingly wet with the path difficult to follow as I descended into a valley and was even more so as I climbed back out. When I reached the top of a broad saddle I lost all trace of a path and I realised that I had strayed from the correct route, so I had to cross the boggy col to reach the clear path. Soon after that the path joined a green lane, becoming a gravel track which helped me pick up my pace again as the sun came out and the temperatures rose. This was an enjoyable, relaxing descent, the path later becoming lined with gorse and then, while passing through Sky Hill Plantation, it was lined with the gorgeous white flowers of wood sorrel, and pre-flowering bluebells. Eventually I came down to the bottom of the path where I was confronted with the harsh reality of the main road which I had to walk along to take me into the town of Ramsey where I was able to catch a tram back to Douglas. This was a very enjoyable walk with some great moments striding across the hills with little or no wind to impede my progress, while the negatives were the closed footpath and a painful knee which got worse as the walk progressed.

The Herring Road

Tuesday 7th April 2026

The weather forecast for the Isle of Man was very good for this day so I was keen to take the maximum benefit from it, especially as the forecast was not so great for the end of the week. I decided that on this day I would do the trail Bayr ny Skeddan, ‘The Herring Road’, which starts from Castletown, so I caught a bus and got off at the railway station. I joined the path beside the Silver Burn as it passes underneath the railway line and past Poulsom Park, also following the route of the Millennium Way, which was created to celebrate the one thousandth anniversary of the Manx Parliament, the Tynwald, while the Herring Road was the route once taken by Manx fisherman as they journeyed between the two ports of Castletown and Peel. Initially I was walking through a stunning landscape with tall, pale green plants that lined the river, but once the park was left behind then the vegetation became more mundane with bramble and gorse now dominating. On the edge of Ballasalla I passed the ruins of Rushen Abbey and entered an amazing valley dominated by wild flowers including ramson (wild garlic) and wood anemones, though only the latter was flowering. Last year I was on the Isle of Man three weeks later and then the white flowers of wild garlic could be seen everywhere, but this year I was a little too early. 

I wasn’t able for me to get good views early on because of the private residences on the other side of the river, but after passing a road I entered the officially protected Silverdale Glen where nature has been allowed to take over in all directions producing a sensational effect that had me in awe. Even though very little was actually in flower, the abundance of greenery was mesmerising. The presence of artificial water channels alongside the river revealed that there had previously been mills in the area, but thankfully it has long since been set aside for nature. All too soon I reached a road bridge where the continuation of the river beyond was clearly less interesting so I was not disappointed to discover that the two trails turn right at this point to head up the busy road. Eventually I turned left onto a farmer’s track, finally leaving the Millennium Way to head towards the prominent hill of South Barrule. This track unfortunately became a horrible quagmire with deep mud that was very difficult for me to pass and even once I was eventually through I soon got lost, losing the path in two water-logged fields that I should never have entered. After going all the way around both fields I eventually returned to the path where I found the stile that I surely could not have been missed. Soon, I reached another access lane which brought me onto a road and then a forestry track through a conifer plantation to the foot of the path up South Barrule.

After lunch I decided that it would remiss of me if I didn’t take this opportunity to bag South Barrule while I was there, so I ascended the path, through heather, as it became increasingly rocky and very windy at the summit, which showed that the strong winds of the last couple of days were still present at the top of the highest hills. Despite the windy conditions, this was a much better hill than North Barrule, in the north of the island, which I had climbed the day before finding it to be saturated underfoot, while rocky South Barrule was well drained. While returning back down the path the nearby hill of Cronk ny Arrey Laa was ahead of me, so once I was back on the road I diverted off the Herring Road again to also bag that hill. However, the strong winds were seemingly even worse on this smaller hill so I didn’t stay at the top very long and soon made my way back down again. I had previously climbed this hill last year in weather that was slightly worse, but maybe not as windy, and now I followed that path, the route of the coastal footpath down the northern slopes for a seemingly long way until I reached a junction where I turned right past the isolated house of Eary Cushlin to return to a road and back onto the Herring Road while a heavy shower passed overhead. Fortunately this was short-lived, though heavy enough to prompt me to get waterproofs out, just as it began to stop. 

A track gradually took me into Glen Rushen while the weather transformed into gorgeous sunshine, which made for a relaxing walk that soon dried me off as I slowly descended and once I was in Glen Mooar I joined a road that eventually brought me through gorgeous surroundings into the village of Glen Maye. I had passed through here last year on a diversion from the coastal path to take in the deep gorge of Glen Maye and, although the Herring Road also doesn’t enter the glen, I once again took the path that descends steeply down to the waterfall and ravine. Even though most of the wild flowers were not yet in bloom, I couldn’t help thinking that the surroundings of this narrow wooded valley were simply beautiful, which is not a word I use lightly as it implies a lot of emotion, but that is just how I felt. Wild flower rich valleys such as Glen Maye are my ultimate happy place, my idea of heaven, and I deliberately walked very slowly so I could let the landscape work its magic on my mind until I reached a road where I merrily returned to the Herring Road and onto a path that climbs the side of the valley past early flowering bluebells and onto the coastal footpath following a precipitous route high above the sea heading towards Corrins Tower on the hill beside the port of Peel. This was an exciting path and a fitting end to an enjoyable, exhilarating walk through a variety of terrain with some highs and lows. The lowest point was the horrendous path through the farmland between Silverdale Glen and South Barrule, while the highs were undoubtedly the wooded valleys of Silverdale Glen and Glen Maye.

North Barrule and Snaefell

Monday 6th April 2026

After the strong winds of the day before, I was hopeful that on this day the winds would have eased and the weather forecast indicated that this would be the case and when I left my accommodation in the city of Douglas the sun was shining. Unfortunately, that didn’t last very long and when I got off the bus beside Ballure Bridge, near Ramsey on the Isle of Man, it was overcast. I was following a walk on the visit Isle of Man website described as North East Summits Five Peaks Challenge and started with a steep climb up a rocky path beside the conifers in Ballure Plantation and it didn’t take me long to discover that it was still very windy. At the top of the path I joined a road to an isolated house where I turned right to cross an exceptionally boggy area and head towards the imposing hill of North Barrule. It is said, “Bad things come in threes”, and that seemed to the case on this walk. Firstly, the poor weather, which would get worse, secondly, I had forgotten to bring any water, though that was easily solved by a stream and a filter, and the third was my walking poles. The wet ground prompted me to get my poles out for the first time on this holiday and I immediately discovered that one of the poles wouldn’t lock, so eventually I had to put it away again and resort to just one pole, though the ground was so boggy I really needed both. After leaping over the worst of the bogs the ground didn’t get much better and continued to be saturated throughout the ascent as I slowly climbed the eastern ridge of North Barrule. 

I had to be very careful with my footing as ground that is this wet gives little grip and I was just glad that I was not coming down since then it would have been almost impossible to keep a grip. The views behind me developed over Ramsey and out to sea, but under the grey overcast skies were not great. This ascent seemed to go on for a long time and never improved and worse was to come as I neared the top and the wind increased to gale force. A narrow ridge lay before me, which in better weather would have been delightful to walk along, but all I could think about was how to get off the ridge and out of this wind. A wall at the col provided me with some shelter while I considered my options, but eventually I realised that my only option was to keep going and battle through the wind. This traverse felt like hell and it brought to mind another quote, “If you’re going through hell, keep going.” I couldn’t easily get down off the ridge so I had to go through hell by passing over a minor top above Park Lewellyn and another top, unmarked on maps, but the Isle of Man website calls it Beinn Rein, before crossing a broad saddle adorned with a wooden boardwalk across the wettest parts. On the rise towards Clagh Ouyr I stopped for lunch and while looking back along the ridge I realised that the skies had been brightening and suddenly the clouds parted to reveal blue sky behind the ridge.

Looking back, North Barrule was revealed as having a striking, steep-sided peak, which I hadn’t appreciated while I was at the summit in those windy conditions, but now that the sun had come out and I was sheltered from the wind, I could look back on what I had endured. After a rest and something to eat I climbed up to the top of Clagh Ouyr where the highest point on the Isle of Man, Snaefell, was revealed to me, which is the fifth and final peak on this walk, but with no sign of the winds easing yet I decided to turn left when I reached the bottom of the col and descend to the old mine workings at the head of Laxey Glen. I was fed up with the wind, so I was no mood to climb Snaefell again, which I had visited a year ago. On that occasion I had ascended through Laxey Glen, past the mine and now I descended that way, which provided me with a very relaxing walk along a stony track under warm, blue skies. After passing through hell I felt I was now in paradise. I lingered beside the giant water wheel, taking in the peaceful surroundings, until eventually I reached the railway station where a tram was just about to set off up the mountain railway to the top of Snaefell, so I jumped on board to complete the five peaks challenge, kind of.

The views were sensational, but most notably along the ridge to North Barrule that I had just walked along that morning. It was still very windy so after taking a few pictures I got straight back onto the tram which took me back down. I had originally planned to descend from Snaefell into Glen Roy, so I thought I’d tag that onto the end of this walk by heading into the wooded valley when I returned to Laxey. After getting a bit lost on the many paths in Laxey Glen Garden I headed up the valley admiring the abundant displays of wood anemones lining the stream and absorbing the tranquil scenery, which completed the job of helping me recover from the frightful winds on North Barrule. This day was a stark contrast between the hellish winds in the morning and the relaxing walking through Laxey Glen in the afternoon. I was disappointed with the strong winds on this day which ruined what could have been a fabulous day’s walk over the highest hills on the Isle of Man.

Langness Peninsula and Colby Glen

Sunday 5th April 2026

The weather during the first three months of this year was very wet, which didn’t encourage me to go out for walks, so by Easter I had hardly done any walking for more than an hour or two since the new year, and I was eager to get my walking boots back on. When trying to decide where to walk at Easter I couldn’t think of anywhere better than where I’d been at Easter in 2025: the Isle of Man. That was the first time I’d been there and I was overwhelmed by the beauty of the island and the abundance of excellent walking opportunities, from the highest hills to the many wooded glens rich in wild flowers. There was so much that I hadn’t been able to see last year I had no hesitation in rebooking this year, however, when I got to the capital city of Douglas, Storm Dave was making itself felt with strong winds and a threat of rain, so I didn’t go far. The following morning the skies had cleared, but it was still very windy, which is especially frustrating when the weather is otherwise sunny and good. Since those winds were westerly I thought my best plan would be to walk on the east coast, sheltered by the hills, but I was reluctant to return to places I’d already visited last year. Another option was for me to walk around part of the coastal footpath, Raad ny Foillan, the Way of the Gull, and a part that I missed out last year near Castletown, and this was more appealing for me.

Therefore I caught a bus to Castletown, setting off along the road around Castletown Bay with the peninsula of Langness before me and the strong winds behind, which I was most definitely not sheltered from. Soon, I branched off the road to take a path between the pebbly beach and grasslands that inevitably contain a golf course, crossing the isthmus to bring me to the Langness Peninsula. This long promontory is shaped a bit like an anvil and my route was taking me towards the pointy end, past an increasingly rocky coastline, which was roped off with signs warning of ground nesting birds, so I was more than happy to stick to the path even after it joined a rough road. When I eventually reached the car park at the end of the road I took the footpath that led me towards a lighthouse, and branched off to head towards Langness Point. This was fun walk, that sometimes had me scrambling across rocks, but eventually I reached a point where steep cliffs meant I could go no further. My map indicates that the path stops at this point so I was more than happy to turn around and rejoin the coastal footpath to reach Langness Lighthouse at Dreswick Point. I was not in a hurry on this walk so I was enjoying the freedom to explore the area whenever I felt like it.

With a bit of shelter from the wind I had an enjoyable walk beside a craggy coastline but to my left was the golf course, which can be the bane of walkers because they are potentially dangerous places. Fortunately on this occasion it was too windy for golfing. When I reached the blunt end of the Langness Peninsula I was confronted by the strong winds again, which prompted me to put my hood up, despite the sunshine. A causeway led me onto St Michael’s Island where I passed the ruins of the twelfth-century chapel of St Michael to reach the much better preserved Derby Fort, built in the seventeenth-century to protect the then busy port of Derbyhaven, and still boasts cannons. I had good views across the bay and up the coast, which prompted me to take loads of pictures, but the strong winds soon prompted me to turn around and head back into the wind, around the bay. When I reached the small community of Derbyhaven I found some shelter from the wind where I could have my lunch before setting off along the road back into Castletown. On the western side of Castletown Bay I was sheltered from the winds and enjoyed the respite, but it wasn’t long before I rounded Scarlett point and I was facing the strong winds again. This was a good coastline with plenty of rock and the waves crashing against them were producing a spectacular display to keep me entertained as I continued along the path with stunning views across Bay ny Carrickey, despite a bit of cloud cover at this point. 

I had planned to do this walk in the other direction so the winds would be predominately behind me, but then I forgot and got off the bus in the wrong place, where I had intended on finishing the walk, so instead I was once again walking into the wind. Eventually the path brought me to a farm and from there I reached the main road where a footpath finally took me away from the coast, and the winds, across farmer’s fields towards the village of Colby. The contrast between the strong winds beside the coast and the much more pleasant walking inland made me regret having decided to walk along the coast this day, but it was too late for that. When I reached the village of Colby, initially passing the railway station, I headed up Colby Glen Road, which was initially very frustrating because houses were blocking my access to the stream. When the houses eventually stopped a path gave me access to the stream where a fabulous walk followed through a gorgeous wooded valley filled with many wild plants, though very few were in flower, mostly celandines and one or two bluebells or wild garlic. It was still an awesome walk albeit tragically short and soon I reached a bowl where the river turns first east and then all the way around to west enclosing a meadow filled with many woodland flowers and daffodils. 

After a long wander around I followed the path up the western bank towards the small village of Ballakilpheric, leaving the sounds of the stream behind and working up a sweat from the effort of the climb and the lack of a cold wind. On the outskirts I turned right to take another path that brought me back down into the valley, but only briefly and immediately I was climbing back out again to return to the road above Colby. The sunshine was great on this walk so it was a pity about the strong winds. I enjoyed walking beside a stunning coastline and the short walk up Colby Glen was a delightful extra treat which I was sure the Isle of Man would provide me with many more.

Tarn Crag and Blea Rigg

Friday 2nd January 2026

I had nothing planned for the time I spent in the Lake District over the New Year and even more so for my penultimate day because I didn’t have the forced structure imposed by having to walk to another youth hostel since on this day I was staying at the Grasmere Youth Hostel for two days, so I would be going back to where I had started the walk. The evening before I finally had to come up with something and it came into my mind to walk up the Wythburn Valley and to get there from Grasmere I had to go over the pass of Dunmail Raise, which I’d never done before, is the lowest point between the north and south of the Lakes and carries the main road. I kept to the quiet country lanes north of Grasmere for as long as possible to delay joining the main road, and when I eventually did I kept to the grassy verge that eventually brought me to the top of the pass where a cyclepath begins down the other side. I previously came down this track in 2016 when there was no traffic on the road due to a landslip and that was the only time I had previously been in the Wythburn Valley, which is notoriously boggy. I was hopeful that the bogs would now be frozen solid so I could better appreciate a valley that Wainwright said has many geological and geographical features of unusual interest. At Steel End I turned left and soon entered a conifer plantation where I lost all trace of the path as it disappeared into a swamp. Eventually I retraced my steps and found a broken gate that I had ignored which brought me to the Wyth Burn.

With the ground under my feet mostly frozen hard I had an enjoyable walk beside the stream with views ahead of me towards the shadowed Rake Crags and Black Crag while behind me the western slopes of Helvellyn were picking up the morning sunshine that I was sheltered from. The path took me past a scenically delightful stretch of valley with the burn tumbling steeply through a narrow wooded ravine until eventually I emerged to a levelling of the terrain around ‘The Bog’. Fortunately the path skirted the edge of the Bog and so I was able to keep my feet dry before rising again to Wythburn Head where I emerged into the sunshine and turned south heading into bitterly cold winds. It was difficult to stay warm in these conditions unless I kept moving so I did what I could with extra layers and pressed on, briefly joining the Coast to Coast path until I reached Far Easedale Head where I turned right to follow an unreliable line of old fence posts up the hillside. I came up this way just a year earlier but this is such a great, quiet route I was more than happy to take it again before branching left to cross the slopes. There was a lot of ice on the ground which had to be avoided, making the walking tricky, but soon I was on the ridge that gradually descends from High Raise with stunning views before me towards Grasmere until I reached the end of the ridge at the top of Tarn Crag where the views were even more impressive.

Turning around, I headed back up the ridge, branching left to descend onto the shelf that contains Codale Tarn, where I was blessedly sheltered from the cold winds. After passing the partially frozen lake I joined the clear path from Easedale Tarn which was very rocky and icy underfoot, so great care was needed until I reached the top where I turned left, ignoring the Langdale Pikes, to head towards Blea Rigg. The 1:50,000 scale Ordnance Survey map indicates that I was on Blea Rigg, a ridge that comes south east down from High Raise, past Sergeant Man and terminating above Blea Crag. However, in practice Blea Rigg is understood to be the peak above Blea Crag, so that is where I was now headed, gradually descending with fantastic views down the complex, undulating ridge with Windermere in the distance. I have had many enjoyable walks down this ridge and despite the familiarity I thoroughly enjoyed the descent again. Eventually I descended to the top of Blea Crag, i.e. Blea Rigg, with higher ground behind me a short distance back up the ridge. A steep descent from the top was necessary before I could continue the traverse of the ridge and, as is my usual practice, I diverted off the clear path many times to visit the summit of the many minor tops along the way. 

Great Castle How was followed by Little Castle How before another steep descent brought me away the outcrop-rich part of the ridge into an area that was predominately grassy, sometimes boggy, and less interesting. Before reaching Lang How I branched left to descend across the northern slopes of the ridge, but with no trace of a path I had to follow the route that the O.S. Maps app claimed was the route down, keeping constant careful attention on my location. Eventually I reached a clearer path amongst juniper so from there I was more confidently able to descend into Grasmere. This walk was at its best when I was sheltered from the strong cold winds and it was enjoyable ascending the Wythburn Valley through stunning scenery. It is remarkable that both Wainwright tops that I visited on this walk were descended to down ridges where the tops are at the end of the ridge and so only look like a top when seen from the other direction. The following day I walked from Grasmere to the railway station at Windermere with no attempt to create a notable walk out of it, except near the end when I stopped off at the crowded summit of Orrest Head where I had good views back to the fells of the Lake District before saying goodbye to them until next time.

Holme Fell and Langdale

Thursday 1st January 2026

I had no interest in seeing in the New Year so, after an early night, I left the Coniston Youth Hostel and saw that there was now a sprinkling of snow on the high fells. I bought some things for lunch and then set off along the route of the Cumbria Way, which climbs a couple of fields, passing over High Guards before descending back down to Yewdale Beck. Another climb brought me through Tarn Hows Wood to Tarn Hows Cottage where the route back down again was difficult to follow, but soon I was at the road and crossing Glen Mary Bridge. A sketchy path brought me to Harry Guards Wood and became increasingly steep and stony as I ascended Holme Fell, which I had previously climbed by this route in 2009 under deep snow. I attempted Holme Fell exactly a year earlier from the north, but abandoned it by descending this path which was very difficult in descent due to the loose stones, though this was not a problem in ascent. When I reached the top of Uskdale Gap I turned south to visit the fine cairn at the top of Ivy Crag and from there I continued across to the adjacent ridge and the summit of Holme Fell. A strong wind blowing did not detract from the great views, south towards Coniston Water and west towards the high fells including Wetherlam and the snow dusting the Old Man. The Langdale Pikes and the rest of the Lake District was arrayed before me in gorgeous splendour. 

On returning to Uskdale Gap I continued heading north making my way along the north east ridge of Holme Fell, which I had previously used in ascent in 2017, but poor weather had prevented me from appreciating it. Then a year ago I attempted it again only for the weather to be even worse, prompting me to descend before I reached the summit. The day before this walk, while passing around the fell, I had observed this ridge and decided that it would be a good idea to descend that way, and so the idea for this walk emerged. Now, despite a cold wind, I had clear views for my traverse of a ridge that was not always easy to follow with a path that was intermittent and not consistently clear, which had been a big problem for me when in low cloud on my previous visits. It was an enjoyable path, though it avoided the numerous small tops along the way and instead weaved a course around them, undulating up and down until finally I reached Man Crag where a clear descent took me down to the Oxen Fell track. After stopping for lunch I felt very cold and despite putting on an extra fleece it took me a long time to warm up again as I walked along the track to Hodge Close where I turned right to continue heading north. While descending Holme Fell I had noticed a prominent peak a short distance to the north, Great How, which is rarely visited and I had certainly never been there before, so I took the opportunity to divert from my intended route and climb to the top.

There were great views from the summit of Great How, though this is possibly the best that can be said about it with Lingmoor Fell across Little Langdale looked particularly fine while the pass of Dunmail Raise attracted the eye on the line of hills along the northern horizon. A steep descent brought me down to Little Langdale where paths I have never taken before took me across the valley to the track that heads towards Elterwater, but I soon turned off to climb over the low ridge through woodland. On the other side I turned left onto a track that gradually descended into Great Langdale, passing Baysbrown to reach Oat Howe where I crossed the valley to reach the road near Harry Place Farm. After passing the farm I took a faint path that climbs steeply up the side of the valley with views developing behind me past the Langdale Pikes and towards the snow dusted fells. I previously took this path in 2016 when the weather was much worse with low cloud and mist spoiling the view. Now, it had just been a way of lengthening the walk so I wouldn’t reach the youth hostel too early, but it provided me with a thrilling traverse that Wainwright was full of praise for saying it “is a beautiful and exciting route, hardly more strenuous than the road and infinitely preferable. It deserves to be much better known.”

With the skies clearing I was provided with stunning views to Elterwater with Windermere visible beyond, and the delights continued into the ravine of Megs Gill, across a thrilling traverse above the precipitous slopes and onto the top of the ridge below Silver How. A stony path took me all the way down the other side to the boat landings at Grasmere with the village a short distance away. Not surprisingly the Lake District was very busy, but there were many paths that were devoid of people, partly because of my early start, and the path from Harry Place to Megs Gill was also empty. This was a satisfying walk despite not having a firm goal except to have an enjoyable day’s walk in the Lake District.

Latterbarrow and Tarn Howes

Wednesday 31st December 2025

I have been coming to the Lake District at Christmas and the New Year for several years and I will usually include a walk between Ambleside and Coniston, so I feel like I’ve done all the possible paths between the two hostels which made picking my route last New Year’s Eve difficult to plan. Eventually I came up with two different walks for this day, though both covered familiar ground: a low level option over small hills and a high level option that climbs Swirl How and Great Carrs, but I left the choice to the weather. The day started with overcast skies and a frost, and while it was forecast to clear it would then worsen in the afternoon. Ultimately, I decided to do the low level route because the high level route would cover very familiar, tedious ground in the morning and I just wanted to relax on this holiday, so I didn’t want to do a strenuous walk up high fells. Therefore my first goal was the outlying fell of Latterbarrow, taking the road out of Ambleside, crossing the River Brathay and walking along the cyclepath that runs alongside the road to Hawkshead. This is, of course, also a familiar path for me but it is such a good route I was more than happy to take it again.  It was a very cold morning and soon my hands began to feel it, but, rather than countering this with extra gloves, I knew from experience that the first thing to do was to put extra clothing around my core and soon my hands felt warmer. Another tip for keeping warm in such cold weather is from a flask of hot tea which I often took a sip from on this walk and this kept going as I followed the path into Pull Woods while admiring the views produced by the frosty ground conditions. 

The alternative high level route would have taken me across farmer’s fields whereas this was much more interesting as it took me mostly through woodland, and as the cloud began to clear I had stunning views that included towards Wansfell and Red Screes. The morning frost soon began to burn off in the sunshine and when I came off the cyclepath I began to climb quiet country lanes that brought me into High Wray and soon I was stripping off the extra layers that I had put on earlier. My ascent took me past the National Trust’s High Wray Basecamp and with the views improving with every step I continued to climb, through woodland and out onto the bare top of Latterbarrow where I immediately stopped to take in the view, but I was disappointed to see that clouds had covered the sky again. Eventually I reached the stone column or obelisk that sits proudly at the top of Latterbarrow which I had previously visited ten years ago when the weather was much better, but sadly not on this occasion. Despite the overcast skies, when I turned towards Coniston to begin my descent, I had great views before me with the high fells on the horizon across the valley of Hawkshead.

I came down this way on my first visit to Latterbarrow thirteen years ago, but in twilight, so perhaps I wasn’t able to appreciate it then, but now I loved it and all too soon I reached a road and after a short walk along that I turned right onto a path that would let me bypass Hawkshead. However, when I reached Black Beck I turned left to head into the village and stop there for lunch including buying some extra food. Back out of the village, I returned to Black Beck and followed it to Hawkshead Hall, continuing up Skinner How Lane to Knipe Fold where a rough byway continued my ascent. At the highest point on the lane I turned left onto a footpath that took me to the ever popular lakes at Tarn Hows. As the forecast high winds and deterioration in the weather began to make itself felt I walked around the Tarns, avoiding the crowds as much as possible until I had reached the other side. After crossing the outflow I branched off the encircling path to head into the hills that are west of the lake and is known as Tom Heights, but is little visited and I had certainly never explored this area before. Faint paths took me through the complex terrain that provided me with an interesting walk and good views in all directions including towards Coniston Water.

The path beyond the highest point was difficult for me to follow because the ground was very wet and churned up by cattle, so it took me a while to find the correct route down the steep ground until I eventually managed to return to the byway where I turned left heading to Oxen Fell High Cross. I stayed on the track, crossing the main road and the northern slopes of Holme Fell to take a course that would delay my reaching Coniston for a long as possible. I could have headed straight towards Coniston a long time ago, but then I would have reached the hostel long before it opened and before it got dark. Instead I took an interesting route past old quarry workings, including the enormous Hodge Close Quarry, and through gorgeous woodland. I enjoyed walking along these paths and while it attempted to rain it didn’t last very long and eventually the long walk brought me into Coniston. It is always very enjoyable walking in the Lake District even if I didn’t climb any Wainwrights, and I even got to take some paths and climb a hill that I’d never done before.

Sour Howes and Sallow

Tuesday 30th December 2025

After fulfilling my family obligations over Christmas I was keen to get back to the Lake District so I caught a train and was at Windermere station before noon. If it had been my intention to get away from everyone and unwind from the acquired stresses over Christmas, then climbing Orrest Head was not the way to do it as this small hill is a popular place with families that provides them with a great viewpoint after minimal effort close to a town. So, after initially following the crowds through the woodland below Orrest Head I branched off to cross the western slopes while still enjoying some of the views across the northern part of Windermere as those at the crowded summit. The fells above Langdale were shrouded in mist while clouds covered most of the sky overhead so the views were mixed, but it was still wonderful to be back in the Lake District. Firm paths that were enjoyable to walk upon took me across sheep fields to a road and after passing Near Orrest Farm I turned left onto a path that I remember losing my way on in 2021, so this time I took extra care to follow the correct, though not clear route which brought me to Moorhowe Road and from there onto Dubbs Road. Apart from bypassing the top of Orrest Head I was still following my route of 2021, and, from much further back, in 2006 when I eventually turned right at a stile onto Applethwaite Common, unlike in 2021, and now I did so again.

A clear path weaved a course past a line of rocky outcrops, but I ignored this to walk on top of the rocks which made this an enjoyable route up for me, so I was disappointed that there is not a more prominent ridgeline. I had great views across the Troutbeck Valley, up the valley towards the cloud-covered fells and down the length of Windermere, which was looking particularly good on the rare occasions when the sun came out. When the rocks began to disappear I retreated to the path and continued the ascent all the way up to the summit of Sour Howes which could be in several different places, though none of them are really note-worthy and all are a significant distance beyond the point where the gradient eased. The Ordnance Survey marks a 483 metre point as the highest but a more pronounced top further away is likely to be where Wainwright considered as the summit. Turning north I headed along a broad ridge following a clear path around Moor Head on an enjoyable walk with little wind and gradual descent to the col before a gentle ascent led me to the summit of Sallows. I have climbed these two fells just twice before, firstly from Windermere station in 2006 and then on my way to the station in 2015, but Wainwright also described routes of ascent from the south east, from a bridlepath that crosses the eastern slopes from Ing to Kentmere and perhaps I should explore that in future. 

A steep descent brought me to the Garburn Pass where I turned left to descend the stony track with views up the Troutbeck Valley to my right and ahead of me down the valley towards Windermere. Before reaching the junction with Dubbs Road I turned off the Garburn Road onto a path that dropped steeply down past young trees. I would not have thought of going this way as there is not a right-of-way, but the O.S. Map app suggested this route and who was I to argue with my A.I. lord and master? This brought me into Limefitt Holiday Park and now I followed my route of 2022 across the valley, into the village of Troutbeck and around the western slopes of Wansfell finally reaching the Ambleside Youth Hostel as the light was failing. I had no real plans for my second week in the Lake District, over the New Year, unlike the week before when I had a clear objective to climb fells I had not visited in a long time. That just left me able to have an enjoyable and relaxing holiday in the Lake District with no pressures to achieve anything and if the weather was good enough to allow me to visit the tops of some fells then good. On this walk I visited two fells that I had previously visited just twice before and I had an enjoyable walk. What more do you need?

Armboth Fell and Raven Crag

Wednesday 24th December 2025

On my last day in the Lake District before Christmas I made my way to Thirlmere and parked in the car park near the dam for the reservoir, setting off along the permissive path that runs between the shore and the road. I had never been on this path before so I was overjoyed to be walking along it now as it meanders around the headland through the trees, but all too soon I reached Armboth Car Park where I left Thirlmere behind and headed up the hill beside a fence near Fisher Gill. Soon, I had views behind me across Thirlmere towards the Helvellyn range while to my right I passed below Cockrigg Crags before emerging from the trees to the open fell where I branched off the clear path to cross Fisher Gill onto boggy paths that were almost frozen where the sun wasn’t shining. Ahead of me I could see the rocky plinth of Armboth Fell so I headed across the heather and bog and soon reached the summit. I previously climbed Armboth Fell in 2008 in snowy conditions and I had never been back despite several planned attempts. On that occasion I had bagged the top as an out and back from High Tove, so I was keen to climb it properly, which I had now done and was the last Wainwright that I had done only once. After wandering around the summit for a while I realised there was a cairn on a heathery spur to the south that was Wainwright’s summit, even though the Ordnance Survey now say I was at the highest point, so for completion I crossed over to the south top.

A clear path avoids the worst of the bogs between the highest point on Armboth Fell and High Tove, but since I was now on what had been thought to be the highest point in Wainwright’s day instead I decided to cross straight over from there following a sketchy path that was mostly dry, or frozen, except when crossing the top of Launchy Gill. Eventually I reached Shivery Man, and the fence that runs across the top of the broad, boggy ridge, where I turned right to continue my struggle through the heather until I eventually reached High Tove. I was here less than a year earlier, at the beginning of 2025 when there was a covering of snow on the ground, but now the sun was shining and the early frost was melting. I had been reluctant to return so soon after, but there was no avoiding it and also visit the close neighbouring Armboth Fell. A flagstone path led me across the broad saddle towards High Seat and when I reached the trig point at the summit I was greeted by stunning views in all directions, including glimpses of Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Lake. At the beginning of the year the weather had been much poorer with overcast skies and snow so I now had a great contrast to the view as I basked in the sunshine beside the summit.

After eating my lunch sheltered from the wind behind the east top, known as Man, I set off down the grassy, eastern slopes until I reached the edge of a conifer plantation where a gate afforded me access and along a track that led me to a junction where I turned right towards Raven Crag. This was a heavily manufactured path ending in a flight of steps up the hill to a sensational viewpoint along Thirlmere. I last visited this in 2014 and I don’t remember such severe manufacturing of the path and viewpoint then, but I wasn’t bothered as the views in the sunshine were amazing. I climbed around the top of the crag getting different angles while taking loads of pictures. Unfortunately I needed to get home, so I had to leave these stunning views and descend an eroded, stony footpath steeply down the hill back to my car. I was disappointed to be leaving the Lake District, especially when the weather was as good as this, but I needed to back home for Christmas and it wouldn’t be long before I was back.

Low Fell and Fellbarrow

Tuesday 23rd December 2025

On my second day in the Lake District last Christmas I continued my quest to bag the Wainwrights that I had previously done only once before. A Wainwright is a hill, known as a fell, in the Lake District that Alfred Wainwright devoted a chapter to in his seven pictorial guides to the Lakeland Fells. To bag a Wainwright means to visit the summit of the fell and the first Wainwright I wanted to bag on this day was Whinlatter, a fell in the north western part of the Lake District, north of the pass that is named after the hill. There is a car park at the top of Whinlatter Pass so after parking there I set off for a short distance along the road to a forestry track that climbs through the conifers north of the road and it wasn’t long before the experience of walking along the track and climbing the hill was easing my mind of the worries and weight of the modern world. At a junction I had a view through the trees, but hardly anything could be seen of the valley below so I turned around and headed along the path that continued the climb until I reached a gate that led me out of the wood and onto the open fell. Initially I had to climb up beside the fence until a clear path appeared heading across the broad ridge leading me towards the top of Whinlatter. The ground was wet and boggy with low cloud all around me, but it was not particularly thick and at least it wasn’t wet or windy, which is all I really ask. Before too long I reached Whinlatter Top, the highest point on the fell, but there was little to see so I turned around and retraced my steps.

However, when Wainwright wrote his guides the only top that the Ordnance Survey acknowledged on Whinlatter was at Brown How, at the western end of the ridge, so that is the location of Wainwright’s summit. I did not realise this when I climbed it last Christmas and looking at modern Ordnance Survey maps the east top is now shown as higher than Brown How and named as Whinlatter Top, so that was as far as I went. When I previously visited Whinlatter in 2007 the weather had been good and I traversed the entire ridge as far as Brown How as part of an epic walk. Bagging summits is a rather pathetic activity in this way, up and down in less than an hour for no other purpose. Who cares if I actually ‘bagged’ the Wainwright summit? Back at my car I drove down the other side of the pass into Lorton Vale and parked at Lanthwaite. My goal now was a pair of hills that I had previously climbed Christmas 2010 and I began with a pleasant walk through Lanthwaite Wood to reach Scalehill Bridge before branching right across a couple of fields and up towards the steep slopes of Low Fell. An interesting woodland path took me across the foot of the hill before finally turning left to ascend via a diverted path which did little to relieve the steep gradient, so after working up a sweat I finally reached the top of Low Fell.

Despite the misty conditions I had great views south across Crummock Water and towards the Loweswater Fells, so I lingered for a while, eating my lunch, before finally setting off along the path that traverses the fells, which was an enjoyable walk because it was clear and not too muddy along the gently undulating ridge. Eventually I climbed up to the northern top of this pair of Wainwright fells, Fellbarrow, soon turning around and branching left across the top of Meregill Beck to reach a clear track, an old drove road, that provided me with an easy and pleasurable descent all the way down to the tiny community of Thackthwaite. A lengthy walk along a narrow, country lane brought me back to Scalehill Bridge where the bridleway through Lanthwaite Wood led me back to my car. Now, it was only two o’clock and even at this time of the year I still had a couple of hours of sunlight left, which is the same problem I had fifteen years earlier after climbing Fellbarrow and Low Fell for the first time. My solution on that occasion was to climb Binsey, a small hill on the northern edge of the Lake District, and this seemed to be my best option again. I made my way past Bassenthwaite Lake to a side road off the A591 road, and parked in the same place I had parked in 2010, not far from a muddy track that directed me up the hill towards Binsey. After crossing the fell wall I found a good, firm path that led me all the way up to the windswept summit of Binsey.

I had previously visited this fell twice before, first in 2008 in the dark and then in 2010 while the sun was setting. Although it was also late afternoon for my third ascent, the time stamp on my pictures indicates that I was now at the summit more than half an hour earlier than in 2010 so I had better light and much clearer views towards Bassenthwaite Lake and towards a small body of water that I had not noticed before, Over Water. I was overjoyed at having a proper view from the summit and during my descent down the other of Binsey, back down onto a road and along the quiet, country lane to my car while the light held. Although the weather on this day was not as good as on the day before, it was good enough for walking as it wasn’t windy, except on Binsey and that was not so blustery. It was very satisfying for me to be revisiting fells that I had not climbed in a long time, that lie on the edge of the Lake District and are difficult to reach without a car.

Mell Fell Medley

Monday 22nd December 2025

After a long and difficult autumn I was excited that it was finally Christmas and I could make my annual pilgrimage to that most delightful of places for walkers, the Lake District. Rather than taking the train, this time I thought I’d drive so after a long journey I made my way to Ullswater parking at the Hause, the top of the road that passes between Watermillock and Matterdale End. My goal on this short stay in the Lake District was return to the hills, known as fells, that I hadn’t visited for a long time with my first goal being to visit the fells in the north eastern corner called Little and Great Mell Fell following a walk on the O.S. Maps app called Mell Fell Medley. I was at the start of the path up Little Mell Fell, which I had visited only once before back in 2008 and neglected all these years mainly because it is very small and inconsequential, but because Wainwright devoted a whole chapter to it in his Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells, then it is obligatory to waste time climbing it. The ground was very muddy after the large amount of rain that the Lake District had recently endured but it wasn’t long before I had climbed the short, steep slope to the top. It was great to be walking and with the sun shining, though it was a bit hazy with cloud capping most of the fells, so the best views were probably towards the neighbouring fells. 

Previously I had gone straight up Little Mell Fell and back down the same way, but this time after reaching the summit I turned west to head towards Great Mell Fell crossing a series of gates and wire fences despite this being open access land. Eventually I reached a narrow road where I took a path across the shallow valley to reach another road and the start of the path up Great Mell Fell, which was much more interesting than the one on Little Mell Fell, and more prolonged, passing through bands of rock and trees on a good path until the gradient eased over the broad, waterlogged top. It felt great to be on top of a hill and I realised that the last time I had been this high was on the Cambrian Way more than six months earlier and my reward was a fabulous view towards Blencathra, despite the haze and cloud. Except for the two weeks I had spent last summer crossing Scotland and down the Northumberland coast I had hardly done any walking in the last six months, so I was feeling very emotional to be back in the Lake District and doing what I love. I dropped to the ground a short distance down the western slope from the summit to have my lunch and gaze in awe and wonder at my surroundings absorbing the feeling of being back in the Lake District.

The heat that I had generated during my ascent soon left me so when I set off to head back down the fell I had to don extra clothing including gloves and a woolly hat. A walker is always regulating their body temperature through many different ways from taking layers off and on all the way down to fine adjustments of your zip. Climbing a hill generates a lot of heat that soon dissipates when you stop, which needs to be carefully managed. I love it. Eventually I returned to the road where I had started my ascent of Great Mell Fell and now I headed south along the road branching right and then left to head towards the third fell in the Mell Fell Medley. Although there are only two Mell Fells, it is possible to add a third fell in Gowbarrow Fell, which is not far away and easily included. The road soon brought me to Ulcat Row below the impressive northern crags of Gowbarrow Fell, but there is no path up the steep slopes so I had to follow a path that passes below going all the way round Norman Crag and now I felt like I was really in the Lake District as the path passed over the rocks below the crags and eventually brought me to the western slopes and the path that climbs to the summit beside a wall. This was a typical National Trust, heavily manufactured, path that felt even more Lakeland, though Wainwright was dismissive of this route up saying it was less attractive than the alternatives. I appreciated the rapid ascent and I was still able to take in the view across Ullswater towards the sun setting over Glenridding.

I enjoyed the path as it snaked up the fell and eventually brought me to the summit of Gowbarrow Fell which I had previously visited just once before all the way back in 2007, more than eighteen years ago. A steep craggy descent, that I could or should have gone around, took me off the summit and onto an easy path that circles Gowbarrow Fell and provided me with an interesting walk until I reached the remains of a shooting lodge where I turned left into a conifer plantation, Swinburn’s Park, on a good path that eventually brought me to the road that passes over the Hause. This was a great, little walk over three minor fells that vary considerably. Great Mell Fell deserved to be climbed if only for the view of Blencathra, while the ascent of Little Mell Fell is too short to be worthwhile. Gowbarrow Fell is a great little fell on its own and deserved more time spent exploring it than I had on this occasion or even in 2007.

Northumberland Coast Path to Amble

Friday 5th September 2025

While I was on the bus at the end of the previous day’s walk I decided I didn’t want to resume the Northumberland Coast Path from Beadnell, where I’d just reached, and instead I would start from the village of Embleton. This was partly because of a road closure that was forcing the bus to take a wide, time-consuming diversion between Beadnell and Embleton, and it was also because I was becoming rather disillusioned with the trail, which didn’t seem to be living up to my expectations. So far on the Northumberland Coast Path, I had seen a lot of long sandy beaches, which don’t interest me, whereas a rock-filled, craggy shoreline appeals to me much more. My map showed me that the Northumberland coast after Embleton would be more to my liking, so with gorgeous blue skies overhead I caught a bus to Embleton and set off along the road past what seemed to be the scourge of the coast, golf courses, and soon I reached Embleton Bay. While walking between the beach and the golf course I approached the ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle, and after going around I found a popular path made up of those heading to the castle. The views back along the rocky shoreline to the ruins were spectacular even though there were many people also in the shot.

Eventually I reached the village of Craster where I weaved around the buildings and continued along an excellent footpath beside a stunning coastline that was much more to my taste with rocky foreshores and craggy cliffs. This went on for several miles and in the bright sunshine I was enjoying every step and turn of the path while the stunning views prompted me to take many pictures. Unfortunately, the delights came to an end in Boulmer where sand returned and I had to find my way around a caravan park, followed by another golf course and with the deterioration in the scenery the weather also worsened with increased cloud cover and a stronger wind. Eventually I entered Alnmouth and with fatigue adding to my woes on this day I came to the mouth of the River Aln where I drearily headed inland to walk beside the road across the river and along a cycle path until I was finally able to return to the coast, but with the sea hidden behind the undulation of the grassy dunes the walking still lacked interest. It wasn’t long before those things that had often interrupted me on this holiday once again appeared with a caravan park followed by a golf course until I finally turned inland to reach the village of Warkworth.

After passing the castle I walked between the road and the River Coquet into the town of Amble where I finally decided that I had had enough of the Northumberland Coast Path and so, after getting some fish & chips, I caught a bus back to Alnwick. Despite the brief section of stunning coastline between Embleton and Boulmer, which rivals the Berwickshire Coastal Path, I had had enough of the Northumberland Coast Path. Sandy beaches and dunes do not appeal to me and since almost all of the rest of the trail from Amble to Cresswell involves going around the sandy Druridge Bay I elected to not bother. The following day was overcast and I spent it in Alnwick before walking slowly beside the river to the railway station at Alnmouth. The purpose of this holiday had been to simply provide me with a relaxing break where I could shed all of the stresses that I had acquired over the summer at work, and, although it often wore me out physically, it did succeed in leaving me thoroughly refreshed and relaxed.

Northumberland Coast Path to Beadnell

Thursday 4th September 2025

The day before this walk I had started the Northumberland Coast Path, starting from Berwick-upon-Tweed, and heading south I had reached Holy Island also known as Lindisfarne. I had planned on skipping the next stage by catching a bus to the village of Seahouses because the trail heads inland from Lindisfarne to avoid a nature reserve, but by this point in my holiday I was keen on a change of scene from the coastal walking and with the bus to Seahouses not being until 10.30 I decided to keep to the trail. First, I needed to return from my overnight accommodation to the village of Fenwick where I rejoined the Northumberland Coast Path as it climbs into the hills. After the rain of the day before it was great to be walking in sunshine again, though it would soon cloud over, and on Fawcet Hill I had views, over a herd of cows, back to the coast and the low-lying island of Lindisfarne. There I came to a junction of paths where my maps, both Harvey and Ordnance Survey, indicated that the coastal path keeps climbing to reach St Cuthbert’s Cave, but the signpost directed me in the other direction into Virgin Hill Wood. This was a shortcut that I had already considered on taking and now appears to be the official route so I was more than happy to take it instead of climbing up to the pass between Greensheen Hill and Cockenheugh and then after passing behind the latter heading back towards the coast.

My route took me along a track into the conifer plantation and past Swinhoe Lake to rejoin the old route at Swinhoe Farm whereupon I crossed many fields to descend into the village of Belford. I took advantage of my being in Belford to buy some food to keep up my strength and after passing through the lovely, little village I took a footpath past the edge of a golf course that brought me to the busy A1 road. Rather than taking the footpath opposite I turned onto the B1342 road around a small industrial estate to reach the railway line. The day before I had not enjoyed using the pedestrian level crossing at Fenham Hill so I didn’t want to repeat the experience at Belford Burn crossing, however, this left me stuck on the road, which after a level crossing meant walking along the road into the oncoming traffic for over a mile until I reached a junction where I could take to the safety of a quiet country lane, signposted Spindlestone. This brought me into a lovely, little, tree-covered valley where a walk through the gorgeous woodland brought me back onto the Northumberland Coast Path and the coast itself, for the first time this day. I was at the southern tip of Budle Bay and followed the shoreline path where I had views across the bay while the buildings on Lindisfarne were a distant blip on the horizon. 

A caravan park and a golf course provided me with distractions inland until I reached the club house where my way now proceeded along a road with views down the coast to Bamburgh Castle, sitting dramatically on a rocky plug. It was an impressive sight and perfected by the golden beach before it, but the area was too popular with tourists for me, so I just followed the road through the village and on the other side a path took me tediously through many fields as I frustratingly veered away from the coast again. The new England Coast Path stays beside the coast at this point while the older Northumberland Coast Path keeps away, which made me think that perhaps the latter has now been superseded by the former, whose route is much better, with the issue possibly being that the Northumberland Coast Path sticks to pre-existing rights of way while the England Coast Path uses new access rights to the coast. At Shoreston Hall I turned left to return to the coast following the route on my map, but the official route actually stays inland until it reaches the outskirts of Seahouses. 

Instead, I was able to enjoy walking beside the beach that brought me into the large village of Seahouses and around a golf course on the other side, which necessitated my having to walk beside the road until I could walk through the dunes that brought me into the village of Beadnell where I waited for a bus to bring me to Alnwick. Although there were some enjoyable moments on this walk, helped by the weather, it was beginning to frustrate me that the trail wasn’t keeping to the coast and the coastline was not as dramatic as what I had seen earlier in this holiday. With only a few days of my holiday left I at least wouldn’t have to put up with it for much longer.