Hard Knott and Esk Pike

Monday 25th April 2011

The weather for this walk was a little cooler than the previous day's, but not by much. It was still a warm day and afforded me with clear views all around Upper Eskdale. I set off from the youth hostel and walked up the valley, trying to avoid the road by crossing Doctor Bridge and following the footpaths to the south of the river, but I still hit the road at Jubilee Bridge at the start of the steep pull over Hardknott Pass. This is a difficult climb for cars but on this day many cyclists were also slowly making their way up the winding road. Rather them than me! I was slowly walking up the hill, past the Roman Fort of Hardknott (there isn’t much to see so I didn’t linger) and on to the top of the pass. With views down the other side of the pass into Dunnerdale, I climbed up the fell that lends its name to the pass: Hard Knott.

After all the agony of the climb to the top of the pass I was now able to enjoy myself as I explored the various tops around Hard Knott, starting with Border End which overlooks the pass. With views of the Eskdale Needle below and the great fells that surround Eskdale on the horizon, I crossed the complex terrain to the summit of Hard Knott and with this Wainwright bagged I now had only three left to complete all the Wainwrights. I continued my exploration of Hard Knott, eventually stopping at a cairn on the last outcrop on the northern slopes and there I kicked off my boots from my aching feet as I relaxed in the shelter of the outcrop and had my lunch while gazing out across the gorgeous scenery of Eskdale. Now that my goal for the day had been accomplished I was unsure what I was going to do next. Originally I'd planned on climbing the unending grassy slopes of Crinkle Crags, but I was now too tired and weary to try it.

As I neared Lingcove Beck I decided I would follow the stream all the way up the valley, but little knowing that it was going to be a very long and tiring way. I had never been along the path all the way to Ore Gap before so thought it would be a good idea; I now know how far it is. After frequent stops to catch my breath I eventually reached the top of the pass at Ore Gap, where I turned left and climbed the gloriously stony terrain to the summit of Esk Pike. This is a fabulous fell, tragically overlooked by its bigger neighbours but deserves far greater recognition due to its complex rocky terrain and stunning views. After a rest I headed straight down the awesome, pathless south ridge of Esk Pike. This was a great descent as I picked my own route down the long, crag-filled ridge. Despite coming to a dead-end at a cliff top, and having to climb back up, I thoroughly enjoyed this ridge. I climbed this way some years ago and enjoyed it then and now was no different as I relished in the freedom and ease of the descent.

Eventually I reached the River Esk near Scar Lathing where I was easily able to cross the river due to the recent lack of rain. I wanted to walk through the Esk Ravine on the steep, western side, but this is a very tricky path that even Wainwright warned against saying that it enters a gorge below Green Crag from which escape is difficult (well, that was what attracted me!). It was indeed difficult to get through the ravine, but it could have been tougher. At one point I was given a choice of routes and I took the upper path, but I can’t help thinking that the lower path would have been more exciting, though I think I was wary of the possibility of the lower path having subsided into the ravine. A return trip to investigate is called for I think. I continued beside the river and walked all the way to the youth hostel along the bottom of Eskdale. This was a fabulous walk in a great area of the Lake District. I just love Upper Eskdale as one can walk through it all day, on a Bank Holiday Monday, and hardly see anyone, and this walk showed off the valley at its best. There is nowhere better in the whole of the Lake District.