Monday 2nd June 2025
My second attempt to do the Cambrian Way was more successful than my first last year because I managed to walk over the Rhinog Mountains which I had previously gone around on the route of the Ardudwy Way. The day before this walk I had climbed into the hills from Barmouth through low cloud and strong winds to the two hills that name the range, Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr, before descending into Cwm Bychan where I camped. I knew that better weather was forecast so I had battled through the bad weather and as I descended I was rewarded with sunshine as the clouds cleared to reveal the complex, craggy terrain of the Rhinogydd. The campsite was dominated by campervans which did not provide me with a comfortable atmosphere to camp in and in the morning the air was filled with midges so I set off as soon as possible up the side of the hill, through bracken to a clearer path that took a gentler course below the steep crags of Clip while behind me were gorgeous views across Llyn Cwm Bychan.
After crossing a wall I branched left to climb up to Bwlch Gwylim where I turned left again to reach the top of Clip where I had extensive views in all directions with the most notable being across the estuary to Porthmadog, while the high mountains to the north around Yr Wyddfa / Snowdon and Rhinog Fawr to the south sulked under dark clouds. My route north took me across a complex terrain of crags and small lakes that was a joy to walk over in this clear weather, negotiating a fascinating landscape that left me wishing I could have stayed longer. My instinct was to seek out every single top adorned with a cairn, a pile of stones, but there were too many so I fought the urge to explore and concentrated on sticking to the trail. I returned to Bwlch Gwylim and then crossed the top of Craig Ddrwg before descending to Llyn Corn Stwc and around a craggy hill to another lake, Llyn Du, where a clear path took me around another crag before heading up grassy slopes to the top of Moel Ysgyfarnogod which is decorated with a trig point.
Beyond that was Foel Penolau, then the broad top of Diffwys before crossing the narrow top of Moel Gyrafolan and finally descending to join the bypassing route that I had taken last year. However, due to problems with my accommodation and to keep my pack as light as possible, I needed to come off the trail and head towards Porthmadog. With hindsight I wish I had stayed on the trail longer and completed the traverse even if that meant having to climb back up out of Cwm Moch. Instead I turned off before Diffwys and descended the broad slopes west of Cwm Moch until I reached the path that I had taken last year which took me to a bridleway that led me down the hill with stunning views towards Porthmadog. A walk through beautiful, lush scenery eventually brought me to a farmer’s access road where my descent continued through the woodland of Coed Caerwych. Even though I was off the trail, I was still enjoying the walk in warm sunshine through a part of Eryri / Snowdonia that is little visited and better for it.
It was lovely countryside and I had a relaxing walk, however all too soon I was walking on roads or pavements that didn’t help with my sore feet following my trip through the bogs of Rhinog Fawr the previous day. Narrow country lanes meandered through low hills until I finally reached the main road beside the coast, and crossed the Afon Dwyryd, passed through the town of Penrhyndeudraeth and over the Cob, the seawall that led me into the town of Porthmadog. By this time my feet were really aching despite repeatedly tending to them and frequently changing my socks. It was surprisingly early in the afternoon and I felt a little frustrated at not maximising the good weather, but I was so tired I didn’t really care. I took advantage of the supermarket in Porthmadog before catching a bus to my pre-booked accommodation.
Given how late I arrived in Cwm Bychan the previous evening I couldn’t help thinking that this was the wrong place to stop and it should have been earlier, perhaps before Rhinog Fawr, since if I had stayed on the Cambrian Way I would have also reached the end of the stage very early. Nevertheless, I loved finally being able to traverse the Rhinog Mountains, which had been my biggest disappointment from last year’s failed attempt at the Cambrian Way. Almost as soon as I came home from that holiday I had started to make plans to return to the Rhinogydd, though this ultimately became a complete rerun, but it was my desire to traverse the Rhinog Mountains that was always my primary goal and having done that I was satisfied. The rest of the Cambrian Way could have been a washout for all I cared and I would still consider it a success. But the poor weather I encountered on the first day prompts me to consider making another visit to the Rhinog Mountains and why not?
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