Loch Lomond & Cowal Way, day two

Tuesday 19th May 2026

I had a lovely evening before this walk at the Glendaruel Caravan & Camping Park where it was dry and sunny, the birds were singing loudly and there were excellent facilities. However, it started to rain over night and the following morning it was just grey and miserable with persistent rain forecast, though when I set off it was hardly raining, not heavy enough to hear the drops on an umbrella or a waterproof coat, so I had a relatively enjoyable start to my second day on the Loch Lomond & Cowal Way, but it wasn’t long before it started to rain again. My walk started on the narrow roads through the valley of Glendaruel which was enlivened by many bluebells growing beside the road, as well as the white flowers of wild garlic and three-cornered garlic. 

Eventually I reached the main road where I turned south, heading back down the valley, but soon I branched off the road, passing an unwelcoming farm and onto a track that provided me with the first prolonged climb of the trail. This took me up the valley of Garvie Burn and into Strath nan Lùb, past some cattle and into the driving rain. Occasionally the rain eased to a light drizzle, which afforded me with the opportunity to put my hood down and reflect that the best part about walking in the rain is when it stops. The rain eased as the morning progressed and I slowly dragged myself and my heavy rucksack up the seemingly unending track, climbing into the mist until eventually I summited the pass, the second highest on the trail, and began to descend steeply. 

I had now entered the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, though this was completely missed by me as I descended into a conifer plantation. My guidebook indicated that I needed to turn sharp left after a series of bends whereas the green diamond markings on my Ordnance Survey map would have had me taking the second turning on the left. I thought I’d seek a third opinion so I consulted the walkhighlands website which agreed with my guidebook so when I reached the sharp left I took the signposted green lane which was carpeted with wood sorrel. This brought me to a fabulous gorge where the Allt Robuic burn cascades down a series of waterfalls whose stunning sight drew my eye away from the bluebells that decorated the sides of the valley. 

As the rain fell again an excellent footpath took me past the falls and along the northern bank, weaving around the contours, over wooden bridges and with protective fences above the steep gorge. Eventually a flight of steps brought me to a washed away bridge, which my Ordnance Survey map would have taken me over. Since I couldn’t turn right, I turned left and followed a wide track that led me into Glenbranter where I eventually found a wooden shelter to escape the rain and have my lunch. When I emerged the rain had stopped, or at least eased, but it was never far away and was soon back. A tedious walk followed along a quiet lane, and once the bluebells of Glenbranter had been left behind there was nothing for me to see. Eventually I reached the outskirts of Strachur, where I crossed the main road and headed up an access road. 

With no accommodation available for me in Strachur, despite wanting to stop due to the bad weather, I had to keep going and find somewhere to wild camp, so I slowly headed up the road alongside the River Cùr past more bluebells as the rain fell heavily again. After crossing the river a good path took me up to a forestry track which led me into the side valley of the Leavanin burn with conifers covering the slopes on my side, though many areas had been felled providing me with views up the valley through the rain. I kept thinking about where I could possibly camp, but with nowhere to camp on the tussocky ground of the conifer plantation, I had to just keep going. After a left turn my path narrowed, crossing many streams with water rushing down the hillside until eventually I reached a crossing of the main burn and a short climb that brought me to the edge of the forestry land where I finally stopped to pitch up my tent.

This is one of those days that make me wonder why I spend my holidays walking in wet Scotland, but if the weather had been better perhaps I would have had my answer. However, much of this day was spent walking on roads or wide forestry tracks that are never appealing, though at least I would have had views of the surrounding mountains which I was deprived of on this walk due to the weather.

Loch Lomond & Cowal Way, day one

Monday 18th May 2026

Last year I walked the Cambrian Way across Wales from Cardiff to Conwy and I found it to be thoroughly enjoyable, so soon after I finished the trail I was thinking, firstly about whether I could do the Cambrian Way again, and secondly, before doing that, whether I could find something similar in the Highlands of Scotland. Throughout the rest of last year I tried to devise a trail in Scotland that would have the same appeal as the Cambrian Way. This was not easy because the Highlands of Scotland is a very different landscape to Wales since it is much bigger and there are very few footpaths in comparison. However, very early in the planning process I came across the Loch Lomond & Cowal Way and I decided that this should form the foundation or backbone of my trail across the West Highlands. I had considered starting on either the Isle of Bute or on Arran, but eventually I decided that I would start my trail across the West Highlands at the start of the Cowal Way, so I had spent the weekend in the pretty village of Tarbert and then, at the start of this day, a ferry brought me across Loch Fyne to Portavadie and the start of the trail. The sun was shining when I set off from the port, even though the forecast for the rest of the week was not so fortunate, so I was happy to have sunshine at this time. 

The trail soon branched off the access road to climb a track through woodland sprinkled with bluebells and gorse before turning onto a narrow footpath that continued to climb until I reached a clearing where I had views back across Loch Fyne. The descent brought me to the ruins of a castle, around Asgog Loch and past the sheep at the head of the loch to reach a road, which took me past the remains of a gunpowder works. Soon I was climbing again on a green lane lined with gorse with striking views back to the low-lying hills behind me and once I was at the top of the low pass there were views ahead of me towards the channel which separates the Isle of Bute from the mainland, known as the Kyles of Bute. First I had to negotiate a golf course, which was quickly done and soon I was walking along a green lane, lined with gorgeous displays of bluebells looking fabulous in the sunshine. Before too long, I reached the shore of the Kyles of Bute where the views across to Bute compensated for now having to simply walk beside the road for a long time through the villages of Kames and Tighnabruaich. Even though the mountains of Arran later appeared to the south, I was more interested in the view north where the channel narrowed and the clouds seemed darker and more ominous.

Slowly, I made my way along the road, beside the loch until eventually the public road came to an end and I continued on a private estate road plunging into woodland littered with rhododendrons. A climb brought me to a waterfall and back done at the shore I passed Caladh Harbour and eventually reached the end of the road beside some cottages. At low tide I could have proceeded from there along the beach, but since the tide was high I had no choice but to make my way along a tortuous route through the overgrown rhododendrons between cliffs and the shores of Loch Riddon. This could have been an exciting traverse, but the ground was so wet and complex it could never be considered enjoyable, so I was relieved when after a very slow mile I eventually reached a house whose access road provided me with much easier walking. I had gotten very hot straining along that difficult path with hardly any respite, though one had afforded me with views through the rhododendrons back towards the Isle of Bute. When I was finally back on a road I was able to cool off while continuing to walk beside the loch and enjoy the views across the water.

An extended section of road walking now followed as I reached the A8003 road and walked beside that for a while until eventually, before the road crossed the River Ruel, I branched off to follow a track beside the river that brought me to a minor road. This took me over the historic two-arched Telford Bridge over the River Ruel and onto the A886 road, which I soon came off to take a lane that led me through the Clachan of Glendaruel. Here, there was a medieval church with some carved stones from the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries in a separate building, which I did have a look at, but I don’t think my life is any different for having seen them or for going inside the church. Back on the road I followed that through the valley of Glendaruel until eventually I reached a caravan park and campsite where I spent a lovely evening and the night. This was a long walk, possibly a bit too long for the first day on the trail, but it was rather easy with very little climbing, especially once I reached the shore of the Kyles of Bute. My rucksack felt very heavy and I was certainly carrying more food than I really needed. The highlight of the walk was not the rough section of footpath as this was too wet and slippery, and instead I think it was the sunny weather, which, though not spectacular, judging by the poor weather forecast was fabulous in comparison to what was to come.