Beinn Alligin

Wednesday 10th June 2009

I had worse weather for this walk than the day before with low clouds and heavy rain by the end of the day, however the weather wasn't too bad as I set off first thing even though there were low clouds over the highest mountains. I was walking over Beinn Alligin, a mountain that isn’t the highest in the area but is still considered one of the three Torridon giants. To start I had to walk for a couple of miles along the road from Torridon to a bridge over the river, Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil, where a path on the far bank struck across the moorland and up the steep hillside. This was a good path that used the local rock well as it weaved up the hill into the impressive Coir’ nan Laogh steeply up beside the burn, Alltan Glas. It was an awe-inspiring place with precipitous slopes on both sides of the narrow corrie. After slowly climbing up the path I eventually managed to reach the top where it immediately started to rain. The sunny weather that had accompanied me during my climb deserted me by the time I reached the top and would not come back all day. After donning my waterproofs I turned to my left to walk to the end of the summit ridge at Meall an Laoigh where a prominent cairn marked a spectacular view across Loch Torridon despite the cloud that was trying to block my view. Returning to the top of the path I went over a 904m top before crossing over to the 922m top of the Munro, Tom na Gruagaich. Here the view of the onward route along the ridge to the second Munro could be glimpsed through the murky weather with the top of the Munro unseen in the clouds. At the summit I had lunch before proceeding down the steep rocky path along a narrow ridge to the ascent up to the second Munro, Sgùrr Mhór. Near the top there was an incredible sight, a deep cleft gouged out of the mountain that goes by the name Eag Dhubh, the black cleft. It was quite a scary sight, more so now with the clouds descended over the top of the Munro.

After passing over the summit I started to drop down the other side and was terrified by the sight that was revealed to me once I had descended below the clouds: the Horns of Alligin. These precipitous peaks seemed impossible to climb over and apparently there was no bypassing path as the sides were too steep. These seemed to be like the Pinnacles of Liathach that I had encountered the day before but were considerably more open and exposed. With great fear of what was to come I completed the descent to the foot of the first horn where I found a steep path that climbed up the sheer sides of the peak. Up close, this was actually a fun climb with some easy scrambling over all three horns that didn't seem too steep once I was actually on them so there was little feeling of exposure. I was able to enjoy myself quite a lot as I scrambled over them and the fun continued beyond the horns as I descended along the ridge steeply down the butt end of the ridge. Looking back it seemed impossible that I had managed to get down the sheer drop at the end of the ridge but the path was brilliantly designed to negotiate the contours easily. It was a pity the path across the moor at the bottom was so poor after such an excellent path down the hill.

Following the burn, Allt a’ Bhealaich, and then the river, Abhainn Coire Mhic Nòbuil, I returned to the road where a long walk back to the youth hostel in the rain was in store until someone felt sorry for me and gave me a lift. I wonder if this walk would have been better taken in the opposite direction whereby the Horns were tackled first rather than leaving them till last. The steep climb up to the top of the ridge would have been more satisfying than the long tedious climb into the coire. My guide books were divided on the issue of the direction so I had decided to go with the majority verdict (two against one) and do the round clockwise, which does have the advantage of leaving the best till last. I believe an anti-clockwise walk would probably have been more satisfying but ultimately what I really needed on this walk was better weather as the views were spoilt by the dreary weather and low cloud. Despite the bad weather though, this turned out to be another fantastic walk in the magnificent Torridon Mountains.

Liathach

Tuesday 9th June 2009

On the previous day to this walk I travelled from Glen Shiel to Kyle of Lochalsh where the wonderful Isle of Skye lay tantalisingly nearby just over the straits, but sadly that wasn't to be my objective on this occasion. Instead I took a train away from Kyle, waving a sad goodbye to Skye and got off at Strathcarron where I caught a minibus over the hills to the stunning mountains of Torridon. I had never been to this area before, but I had heard the mountains in this area described as being the finest in Britain, and after this walk I was inclined to agree that they are certainly among the best. I spent the afternoon, once I had got to Torridon, wandering around the valley staring up in wonder at the enormous mountains that towered steeply around me. A route up any of these giants seemed impossible, but a look in my guide books revealed otherwise. The greatest mountain in Torridon, and the one that overlooks the village, is Liathach, so that would be my first objective.

First thing in the morning I set off along the road up Glen Torridon to a lay-by just beyond Glen Cottage where a path ascends the steep hillside beside the burn, Allt an Doire Ghairbh. This is a good, well-constructed path that blends in with the surroundings as it weaves steeply up the hillside into Coire Liath Mhór. I was enjoying myself tremendously as I climbed steeply up the hillside as I thought: "I'm doing exactly what I love." There is nothing better that I could be doing during my holiday. Eventually I reached the top of the ridge and panicked when I saw the ridge that I was standing on as it was truly terrifying. Not only was the ridge very narrow but the sides were exceptionally steep and the ridge undulated severely. This is not the place for anyone who doesn't have a head for heights, I was petrified. Before heading towards the Munro I turned right along the ridge making my way to the very end of the ridge on Stuc a’ Choire Dhuibh Bhig. There I had fantastic views across to the neighbouring mountain of Beinn Eighe, an awesome mountain that I sadly was not able to walk up on this holiday as it was too far away from the Youth Hostel for me to get to, which is a great shame.

Turning around I returned to the top of the ascent path and continued along the terrifying ridge. The terrain underfoot was all rock, but it was very high, narrow and very tricky with many tops to negotiate. I'm not great with heights so this was a rather nerve-racking crossing for me. I gingerly made my way over Stob Coire Liath Mhor and up the steep stony slope to the top of the Munro, Spidean a’ Choire Léith, the highest point on Liathach. The views along the ridge from the top over to Beinn Eighe were fantastic but the summit is very small with steep sides all around and is made up of loose boulders which made me nervous all the time I was up there. It wasn't long before I was making my way down the steep stony slope off the Munro, but this was just as terrifying as it was very steep. I was gingerly making my way down large stones with a seemingly endless drop to the valley floor below should I lose my footing.

Eventually to my great relief I reached the bottom of the stones and the continuation of the ridge led me over a small grassy top where I decided to have my lunch. After eating I tackled ‘The Pinnacles,’ the prospect of which had been terrifying me for months but as it turned out there is an easy path that skirts around the pinnacles and avoids all the difficulties. A direct climb over the top of the pinnacles wouldn’t have been too difficult for me so long as they hadn’t been so high off the ground. The sight of the valley floor three thousand feet below was unnerving enough for me from the bypassing path. Despite or because of the great height I actually loved that path; it is wonderful as it clings perilously high up the hillside on a narrow ledge and is just the sort of path I love. Although it’s scarily high, I didn’t feel as though there was a chance that I'd fall as I was always on solid ground on a secure path. After all my fears beforehand, the Pinnacles were a delight and it was the Munro itself that was the most scary part of the mountain.

Beyond the pinnacles the ridge widens and was now grassy on one side, though still with sheer cliffs on the north side. All the difficulties were behind me now and I was able to enjoy myself as I climbed over a number of tops up to the second Munro of Liathach, Mullach an Rathain. This was a fabulous end to a great and terrifying mountain and was an apt reward for all that I had endured. Descending along the southern ridge I reached a viewpoint that overlooks the village of Torridon, almost straight down, far below me. The sea was a deep blue and Skye could be seen glimmering in the distance; the view was incredible and all that now only remained for me was a steep descent into the sandy corrie of Toll Ban and along a good path beside the burn, Allt an Tuill Bhain until eventually I reached the road at the bottom. This was an absolutely fabulous walk over a terrifying, but ultimately hugely rewarding mountain. There is so much to this mountain; it’s so big and expansive that different parts offer different thrills and rewards; it’s literally awesome.

North Glen Shiel Ridge

Sunday 7th June 2009

The day after my walk over the Five Sisters of Kintail I went for a walk along the ridge just to the east of the sisters. This ridge is grassier than that along the Five Sisters, but is still delightfully narrow with outcrops of rock near the tops of the Munros. I started at the top of Glen Shiel near the isolated Cluanie Inn where I immediately headed off up the steep slopes of a hill opposite. This was a long climb up a tedious grassy slope during which the weather went through various shades of rain and snow, but I was compensated for my effort with increasingly good views over Loch Cluanie and down Glen Shiel. Eventually I reached the top of the nameless 854m hill at the start of the ridge that terminates on the Five Sisters and walked along the wonderfully narrow ridge to the top of Sgùrr an Fhurarail. The ridge beyond the top continued to rise steeply up to the Munro, Aonach Meadhoin.
Beyond the Munro, I continued along the ridge down to a bealach and steeply up to a second Munro, Sgùrr a' Bhealaich Dheirg. In order to get to the actual summit of the Munro I needed to scramble along a fantastically narrow rocky ridge to a wonderful looking cairn perched high above the corries with very steep drops on either side. After clambering back to the main bulk of the hill I walked to the end of the summit ridge where it overlooks the western continuation of the ridge and there I stopped to have my lunch while it snowed around me. The views from my vantage point through the snow were sensational with mountains 360° around me and as far as my eye could see. This is a great area for walking in.

Descending once again along a narrow ridge I made my way to the third Munro of the day, Sàileag, which is the least appealing of the three Munros that I was walking over this day as it has a grassy summit. I sat for some time at the summit gazing towards the Five Sisters (all six of them!) on the ridge beyond while listening to the Turkish Grand Prix on the radio. The mixed weather of earlier in the day had cleared to reveal some good sunny weather and excellent views. I was not in a hurry to leave the ridge as I just relaxed in the sunshine until the grand prix had finished when I finally returned to Sgùrr a' Bhealaich Dheirg along the ridge. This time I was really able to appreciate the narrow ridge which was dull on the descent from Sàileag but on the ascent to Sgùrr a' Bhealaich Dheirg side was great, gloriously rocky and even a little scrambly, which I attempted but eventually I chickened out of it. I love a bit of scrambling but I have a healthy fear of heights that puts a stop to me doing any scrambling that isn’t easy, and at least keeps me out of mischief!

On the other side of the Munro I took a grassy ridge south slowly descending off the mountain-side via Meall a' Charra. Near the end of the ridge I veered to the left and dropped down to cross the burn, Allt Coire Tholl Bhruach, and walk across the hillside around the bottom of the hill I’d climbed at the beginning of the walk. Staying above the road I returned to the Cluanie Inn where I waited for a bus. I had anticipated a fifty minute wait for the bus but only after the bus was ten minutes late did I realise that that bus only ran in July and August. Ultimately I had a two hour wait for the bus at Cluanie Inn, so it was at this point that I thought it might be a good idea to take my car to Scotland next year! This was a good walk with some fantastic weather, but if I could make any criticism it is that it was too short for the amount of time I had between buses. The ridge may not be up to Five Sisters standard as it was predominately grass, but it was still brilliant walking. The whole of Glen Shiel is a sensational place to walk and I know I’ll be back again.

The Five Sisters

Saturday 6th June 2009

After a couple of days spent resting my leg it was a relief to be back on a mountain, and thankfully I didn’t have any more trouble with my leg. I had spent the previous day travelling from Aviemore to Glen Shiel so I could complete a walk that I’d failed to do last year when I was in the area because of bad weather. I caught a bus from Shiel Bridge and got off at a car park half way up the valley where I found a faint path through bracken up the steep, steep side of the valley. I was relishing the chance to walk on a natural path after the many manufactured paths that I had been walking along in the Cairngorm Mountains. Before too long I managed to get up to the pass, Bealach an Làpan, where I was suddenly hit by a stiff, bitterly cold wind that had me wrapping up against it. Proceeding along the fabulously narrow ridge, I was soon feeling better than I had all week, with a strong leg again, and a wonderful mountain range to walk along. The views across to the South Shiel Ridge at this point were quite striking and although the views of the Five Sisters themselves at this point were partly hidden by the ridge itself they still promised wonders to come.

The walk up to the first top, Sgùrr nan Spainteach, was wonderfully rugged along a narrow ridge with a lovely little scramble at the end of the ridge. This is a fabulous top, but is hidden behind the five sisters so is not included in their numbers. As I walked along I joked to myself that this was their sixth sister that the others don’t talk about (in fact this could be their Spanish cousin as, for historical reasons, the name means ‘Peak of the Spaniards’). A steep climb set amongst absolutely gorgeous rocky terrain brought me to the top of the first Munro, Sgùrr na Ciste Duibhe, and the first sister. From the summit I had tremendous views along the ridge and down Glen Shiel to Loch Duich and beyond. The sisters are defined as those peaks that can be seen from the shores of Loch Duich, so since I could now see the lake I was definitely on the Five Sisters. Bizarrely while I was at the summit it started snowing. The wind had dropped slightly since I’d first got onto the ridge, but it was still as cold as ever. It was strange seeing snow in June, but at the top of a mountain any sort of weather is possible.

A steep descent and re-ascent along the backbone of the sisters brought me to the second Munro, Sgùrr na Càrnach, and the second sister. For a mountain to be considered a Munro it has to have a deep drop to a neighbouring Munro, which in practice means that walking from one Munro to another requires repeated, tiring climbs. Another descent and a very steep climb brought me to the top of the third Munro and sister, Sgùrr Fhuaran, the highest point on the Five Sisters ridge. This is the Munro that I’d climbed a year ago when bad weather forced me to do a shortened version of this walk. On that occasion I couldn’t see anything from the summit, but now after the short-lived snow showers I was getting some good weather and able to enjoy incredible views as I had my lunch over the remaining sisters with Loch Duich in the distance.
A steep descent brought me onto the continuation of the ridge over the fourth sister, Sgùrr nan Saighead, not a Munro, but still a deliciously narrow ridge with fabulous cliffs to my right. The weather had improved so much by now that I stripped off my waterproofs and I had to put sun cream on while enjoying the sunshine on a great walk along the narrow ridge. After walking over the multiple tops of the fourth sister I left my route of last year at Beinn Bhuidhe (the fourth sister’s north-western top) and walked down to a bealach and onto the fifth sister, Sgurr an t-Searraich. This involved a much longer walk before I could reach the summit, though it wasn’t steep as the fifth sister doesn’t even top three thousand feet. You could call this the shy, little fat sister. Most people miss her out as I had done last year, but I wasn’t going to leave anybody out this time even if she has no redeeming qualities. Once I had reached the top I dropped steeply down the western slopes to find a good path beside the stream, Allt a’Chruinn. This path, my route from last year, took me all the way down to the road where a long walk took me back to the youth hostel.

This was a thoroughly enjoyable walk on fabulously rugged mountains and deliriously narrow ridges. It occurred to me that the best parts of this walk were actually away from the Munros. I had a fantastic time walking over the fourth sister, Sgùrr nan Saighead, partly due to the good weather I had at that time, but also due to the narrowness of the ridge and the sheer cliffs to my right side. Let us not forget the best one of the lot: the sixth sister, the Spanish sister, Sgùrr nan Spainteach, which is gloriously rugged, full of rocks and cliffs, along a narrow ridge. This was a fantastic walk with variable weather over awesome mountains and a great ridge.