Mullach nan Coirean and Stob Bàn

Sunday 27th May 2012

I’ve not felt that my Scottish holidays over the last couple of years have been very successful. I’m not sure what the problem has been but they do not seem to have gone as well as my other holidays, whether it’s through a lack of good planning or maybe I’ve just not being going up any good mountains. So this year I was determined to stop the rot by returning to Glen Nevis, the location of some of the best mountains in Scotland, and of some of my best ever walks. The last time I was in this area was in 2008 when the weather was terrible and it rained all week. Now I had the complete opposite with fantastic weather: it was really hot, clear blue skies and with forecasts that showed little change. To start this holiday I decided to return to possibly my favourite range of mountains in the whole of Scotland, the Mamores, which lie immediately south of Ben Nevis. I first went over these mountains in 2005 when I spent a wonderful weekend on them, and subsequently I have returned whenever I’ve been in the area. So I was assured of a great walk to start my holiday.

I was doing the walk that I took on my first visit to the Mamores in 2005 when I walked over the mountains on the western part of the range. On that occasion I had followed the instructions in Ralph Storer’s guide to the “100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains” that took me onto a really muddy path beside the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg burn that was followed by an excruciatingly steep climb up to the ridge. I have since discovered that there is a better route beside the Allt a’ Choire Riabhaich so that was my aim as I set off from the youth hostel in Glen Nevis. After walking along forest tracks for a while I climbed up a fabulous path, until it petered out. A poor path, muddy in places, took me further up the stream until I found a point where I could get across the stream and climb the steep hillside opposite. Just as I started it occurred to me that this hill was a lot bigger and steeper than it should have been so I had a quick look at the map to check where I was. And then it struck me. I had been following exactly the same route as I had in 2005!

While crossing the Allt a’ Choire Dheirg burn again I despaired over the steep climb ahead of me, a climb that was much steeper than the one I would have had if I’d taken the right path. So with the sun beaming down on me and sweat pouring off me I struggled up the same steep hill that I’d struggled up seven years ago, but this time it felt much worse. I had absolutely no energy for the climb, every step was a struggle, but somehow I eventually managed to get to the top of the ridge. There I collapsed in a heap and had a long cool drink and ate some fruit and nuts to get my strength back up. The views around me were sensational. The Mamores are a fabulous range of narrow ridges, deep valleys and stunning white quartzite-topped mountains, and I had a grandstand view of not only the whole range but also the majestic Ben Nevis. After a rest I resumed the climb up to the top of Mullach nan Coirean, the smallest Munro in the Mamores range, but this was still an extremely tiring climb even though the gradient was now much gentler. It’s not unusual for me to not be hill-fit at the start of a holiday, but this was something more, possibly the heat (or, dare I say it, I’m getting older … ?).

Eventually I reached the summit of Mullach nan Coirean, the western-most Munro in the Mamores, and after another rest I set off along this fabulous range of hills to the second Munro, Stob Bàn. With the excellent weather continuing I really had no excuse for not having a great walk, but I was continuing to have difficulty when going uphill. On reaching the 912m northern top of Stob Bàn I collapsed onto the soft grass and had my lunch. It was very relaxing lying there on the grass, enjoying the sunshine and gazing out over the stunning mountain scenery. But this failed to stop my legs from aching when I resumed the climb up to the top of the strikingly shaped peak of Stob Bàn. I felt so tired I became convinced that the cause of my problem was due to a lack of a good night’s sleep, but the way I felt I’d probably need a lot of good night’s sleep!

Stob Bàn is an awesome mountain, with a top covered in white quartzite stones that make it look snow-covered even in the middle of the summer. It was great to be at the top of such a great mountain and coming back down it is even more exciting as it’s very steep, involving a bit of a scramble on the hard rocks. Despite my lack of energy I was still able to appreciate this magnificent mountain, but once I had reached the grass below the mountain I had to stop again and decide what I was going to do next. I had struggled all day on the ascents, which was really disappointing because the weather was fantastic and the scenery of the Mamores is sensational. In 2005 the walk had continued by going along the Devil’s Ridge to Sgurr a’ Mhain, but I did not have the energy to do that now, so I followed Ralph Storer’s route by dropping down into Coire Mhusgain and follow the excellent path through the valley that leads all the way back to the road. I desperately wanted to stay on the Mamores and seriously considered returning the following day so I could resume my walk over the wonderful Mamores.

Part of me felt that I should be disappointed by this walk. One of my reasons for doing this walk was so that I could use the better route up to the ridge, but instead I failed to do that, and without realising I blundered onto the path I’d taken in 2005. I was really annoyed with myself when I realised I’d gone the wrong way. But the biggest factors on this walk were that I was really tired, which made every climb excruciatingly painful, and it was very hot. You really don’t want to be doing strenuous walks in this sort of weather, which could be what was draining me of energy. But I can’t complain; this was a fabulous walk, in fabulous weather, and over fabulous terrain.

The Yewdale Fells and Holme Fell

Saturday 14th April 2012

This walk was not very demanding as I slowly made my way from the Coniston area where I’d been staying to Ambleside. Up until this point in my holiday I had been blessed with light winds all week, but now on my last day the wind gradually grew in strength which made things feel a lot colder on the tops. From the Coniston Coppermines Valley I climbed back up to Hole Rake where I’d been at the end of the previous day's walk which had attracted me to the area so much that I wanted to return as soon as possible. At the top of the pass I climbed out of the ravine onto a complex area of undulating tops that have the collective name of the Yewdale Fells. Wainwright was dismissive of this area saying “Walkers would do well to accept (my advice) and turn their attention elsewhere.” I found it a fascinating area where one could really get lost trying to make sense of the many small tops that litter the area. The first top I reached was Kitty Crag, the highest point, before slowly making my way round to the other tops. It’s an interesting area to explore, but I suppose there’s no sense of achievement in reaching any of the tops as there’s always another one of similar size less than a hundred yards away.

Eventually I joined the good miner’s path through the Yewdale Fells and reached Tilberthwaite Gill, which I crossed in order to be on the northern bank above the deep ravine, which was the opposite bank to the one that I had taken the day before. After crossing Yewdale Beck I made my way through a small wood to Holme Fell. I went up Holme Fell just before Christmas 2009 just after a heavy fall of snow and I experienced near white-out conditions at the top. Since I couldn’t really see the fell then I thought I’d come back and climb the fell now in better weather conditions. Holme Fell is typical of other low fells, like Loughrigg, in having lots of heather and bracken, many tops and a maze of paths. I took a path that headed across the western slopes aiming for a cairn that stands above the tall, south-facing cliffs of Raven Crag before turning back to the summit. In 2009 I wasn’t sure whether I’d reached the summit but now with the benefit of better weather I could see three tops on the summit ridge with the northern-most being the best candidate (and matching Wainwright's description).

Dropping steeply down from the summit cairn I visited the nearby top of Ivy Crag before dropping further down to the top of the Uskdale Gap (where I’d climbed in 2009). Continuing north I passed a couple of overgrown, disused reservoirs on faint paths while trying to find my way off the fell. I enjoyed this feeling of freedom on the fell, making up my own way off the fell without taking the usual routes, though often through heavily overgrown woodland. I wasn’t in a hurry to get off the fell as I had nowhere else I needed to be in a hurry, so I was able to take my time and enjoy myself. On reaching a track I turned right and followed it past the unsettlingly deep Hodge Close quarries. This is a part of the Lake District that I don’t usually see as it’s a little more wooded and a lot less hilly. I saw more tourists and less hill-walkers as I made my way along tracks down into Little Langdale. Walking through woodland and small farmland took me past the waterfalls of Colwith Force and Skelwith Force. This is the sort of pleasant walk that I have been missing out on all these years through my pre-occupation with the high fells.

After passing through Skelwith Bridge I climbed up to Loughrigg Tarn which is quite an elusive lake. It’s not seen from many fells, its namesake may be the only one. After lunch spent gazing across its waters I made my way across the southern slopes of Loughrigg on a route that I have taken from Skelwith Bridge to Ambleside a couple of times as it’s a good short-cut, but for a diversion I decided to veer south past Lilly Tarn to the prominent viewpoint of Todd Crag. There I had stunning views along the vast length of Windermere, but by now the wind had whipped up so much that I could barely stand on the small platform of naked rock. I quickly came back down again and made my way off the fell to rejoin the main bridlepath across the fell as its drops steeply down into Ambleside. I really enjoyed my week in the Lake District as I tried do a little more exploring and I found some good paths, even if they were lower down that I would normally be walking. I went up few big fells, but what I found was that often the better paths are on the lower fells.

The Coniston Fells

Friday 13th April 2012

Before detailing my recent holiday in Scotland I’ve still got two days in the Lake District to describe. On previous visits to the Coniston Fells I’d not spent more than twenty-four hours in the area, usually walking into the area one day and leaving the next, but now I was spending two nights at the Coniston Coppermines Youth Hostel, which gave me the opportunity to really explore the area. The weather was mixed for this walk, but mostly I was able to enjoy glorious sunshine, despite cold temperatures. Setting off early, I dropped down the valley slightly to the Miner’s Bridge and joined the tourist route up to the Old Man of Coniston. However, I wasn’t going all the way up to the Old Man, rather I was heading back up to the Boulder Valley where I had been at the end of the previous day's walk. I could have retraced my steps but I fancied a different route so when I reached the quarry road near Crowberry Haws I turned right along a terrace high above the Coppermines Valley that took me to Low Water Beck and the bottom of the Boulder Valley.

After crossing the stream and the boulder filled valley, I climbed the steep hillside below Brim Fell. Half way up the fell I came across a mine level with metal tracks actually coming out of the mine and sticking out into the air. One can imagine how this particular level was mined in centuries past, but I can’t imagine how the wagons on these tracks could have been brought down into the valley. I continued to climb the ridiculously steep fell until eventually I reached Low Water with the tourist path that I’d been on earlier the far side of the tarn. If I’d stayed on that path I’d have saved myself the steep climb, but I would have missed the fascinating insights into the hidden delights of Brim Fell. Turning north I climbed up to the top of Raven Tor, on the short eastern ridge of Brim Fell, before clambering up to the top of Brim Fell itself.

Brim Fell is usually visited after climbing the Old Man since there is merely a short stroll along a broad ridge between the two, but I’d just climbed Brim Fell for its own sake, surely a rare accomplishment. The Old Man of Coniston however was too close to ignore so I wandered over to the popular summit but didn’t stay long as I dropped down the southern slopes in order to see the wide-ranging views towards the sea. Returning past the summit I wrapped myself up against a cold wind and I walked along the broad ridge past Brim Fell Top on my way to Swirl How. After paying my respects to the Halifax Bomber that crashed on the fell in 1944 I passed over the top of Great Carrs and stopped for my lunch near Little Carrs. The weather had been sunny whilst I’d been at the top of the fells, but now dark clouds seemed to have taken residence above the Coniston Fells. Fortunately my plans for the afternoon were on the sunnier lower fells. After lunch I continued down the ridge that starts on Little Carrs and descended all the way down Wet Side Edge into the Greenburn Valley.

This was a glorious descent. I really like long gradual descents on ridges like this as I find it so relaxing to just sail down the fell with a minimum of effort and stunning views right in front of me. Dropping down into the bottom of the valley I joined the main track through the valley and walked past the many quarries in Little Langdale including Black Hole Quarry which I’d visited just the day before. In 2002 I had visited a vast cathedral-like quarry which I thought was near Little Langdale Tarn, but despite much searching I wasn’t able to find it. I’m not sure which route I took in 2002 as the route I now took through Moss Rigg Wood was unfamiliar. Despite my disappointment this was a nice walk through a lovely wood. At Tilberthwaite Gill I took the path that I’d taken in 2002 above the deeply-ravined stream. Rather than crossing over to the north bank as in 2002 on my way up Wetherlam, this time I turned south across Crook Beck and followed a faint path below the steep sides of Wetherlam’s south ridge.

There I saw more signs of mining activity on this side of Wetherlam which added interest to the walk, but on the other side of the flat, boggy valley there is a clearer path near to the undulating tops of the Yewdale Fells that would have been a better route for me to take. After crossing the bog at the top of the valley I finally joined this path as it climbs through Hole Rake before dropping steeply into the Coppermines Valley. This was a fascinating end to the walk in a quiet, seldom visited area that made me desperate to return soon. The big fells that I was visiting in the morning on this walk no longer hold as much interest for me as they used to, but the lower tops like the Yewdale Fells are new to me and so their paths and tops seem more interesting to me. Once into the Coppermines Valley I continued my exploration of the old levels and leats of this long-disused mining area.