The Coniston Fells

Monday 30th April 2018

While coming back from the Outer Hebrides last autumn I had an idea of spending two weeks in the Lake District visiting the summit of all the High Fells, that is all the Wainwright Fells that are more than two and a half thousand feet high. Almost immediately after getting home I began planning the route on an old one inch to one mile Ordnance Survey map plotting all fifty-three fells and this holiday is the result. I spent the night at the Coniston Holly How Youth Hostel and as I set off it was very cold, however patchy sunlight promised warmer weather despite a bitterly cold wind. When out of the wind, the weather was fantastic and on these great fells that inevitably leads to a great day. I was heading north along the bridlepath that follows the main road, before branching off onto the minor road that climbs to Tilberthwaite and eventually came off that onto a narrow path that gently climbs below Goat’s Crag. This is one of those great paths that the Lake District abounds in and so is not viewed as anything special, but if it were anywhere else it would be hailed as the best thing ever. After a long absence from the Lake District I was really moved to be back where I love to be on a path that typifies all that is best about the Lake District.

The path hugs the side of the hill below crags as it wades across the streams that come off the tops while stunning views opened out across the top of the trees towards the distant fells that drew my eye with the promise of great walking to come. I already loved this walk as I climbed the path beside the precipitous drops down to Tilberthwaite Gill and at the top my first High Fell, Wetherlam, lay resplendent in the sunshine before me. Coming off the path I headed to the foot of Steel Edge, which is a route up Wetherlam that Wainwright failed to mention and is possibly the most famous of his omissions. I have been keen to do this ascent for many years and came close in 2012, but I came from the wrong direction, now I was in the right place. At first, as the ridge slowly developed there didn’t seem much to it except for what seemed to be an unclimbable cliff face ahead of me. Wainwright could have been forgiven for thinking a route up here wasn’t possible and it is only in more recent years that a path has been forged. As I slowly ascended, the weather seemed to be getting colder as the wind began to bite forcing me to don both gloves and a woolly hat before continuing the climb.

On reaching the foot of the cliff face I found the path that leads you up Steel Edge is climbable following a shallow gouge up the ridge with an abundance of handholds, which made for a relatively easy scramble all the way up. At the top I was able to enjoy the fabulous views over the top of Steel Edge that led all the way over to Helvellyn, but ahead of me was a wide undulating ridge with a considerable distance left to climb before I could reach the top of Wetherlam. An indistinct path brought me up to the summit of my first High Fell on this challenge that is coincidentally not only the smallest High Fell, but also the first high fell I ever climbed, back in 2002 on my second ever day in the Lake District. I have fond memories of Wetherlam where I first saw that wondrous view that can see from the top of a high fell in the Lake District. Turning my back on the views to Helvellyn I headed towards the rest of the Coniston Fells taking the clear path that follows the top of Keld Gill Head bypassing the top of Black Sails, which is neither a Wainwright or high enough to count as a High Fell. Passing Swirl Hawse I climbed Prison Band to reach my second High Fell, Swirl How.

My original plan for this first day saw me descending at this point, however it was only twelve o’clock and the weather, although cold, seemed to be improving. Descending from the top of Broad Slack I crossed the grassy plain of Fairfield before climbing up to my third High Fell, Grey Friars, where, after seeking shelter behind the summit from the cold wind, I had my lunch while gazing out over the southern views. I may have planned to climb this fell the next day, but with views like this I was not about to stop walking. I had planned to descend from Dow Crag to Seathwaite Tarn and from there climb all the way up to Fairfield, but now that I could see it I didn’t fancy the long, pathless and futile descent, in either direction. Instead, after eating, I wrapped up against the bitterly cold wind and crossed the top of Grey Friars down to Fairfield where I took a convenient little path that crosses the slopes of Swirl How. This path was a lot more pleasant than it had been on Grey Friars as it was sheltered from the wind and brought me to the main path that came down Swirl Band to Levers Hawse and up the ridge to reach the top of Brim Fell, High Fell number four.

Dropping down the steep western slopes of Brim Fell I picked up the clear path that comes down from the Old Man and followed this craggy path across Goat’s Hawse up to the airy rock pinnacle at the top of Dow Crag. This summit is a little unnerving for someone like me who is uneasy in exposed locations, but it is an awesome place to stand. I was making up my route as I went on this walk and I still wasn’t sure of my next step. Should I descend from Dow Crag to the Walna Scar Road and leave the Old Man for the next day? Considering that it was still quite early I turned around and descended the craggy path back to Goat’s Hawse and from there I climbed the clear path all the way up to the top of the Old Man of Coniston. The weather at this point was sensational since I was sheltered from the cold winds and basking in the warm sunshine. The views across the Coniston Fells were amazing with the rest of the Lake District beyond looking fabulous in the sunshine. This is exactly what I had come to the Lake District to experience and I was excited at the idea of having another two weeks to enjoy it. I was overwhelmed by the sensational views before me and the prospect of great walking for the rest of my holiday in this walker’s paradise.

I did not want this walk to end, but I had run out of fells, so after gazing out over the view for ages and after taking loads of pictures I eventually left the summit heading south onto another route that Wainwright never mentioned. Instead he eulogises over a path that is a “delightful, well-graded and ingenious route” but no longer exists due to the re-opening of Bursting Stone Quarry. I think this south ridge route was developed by people looking for something similar to Wainwright’s south-eastern ascent route and they have done a very good job. A faint path descends the long southern slopes with amazing views stretching all the way to Morecombe Bay before I turned east on a wonderful route across the slopes to eventually reach the Walna Scar Road at Boo Tarn. With plenty of time left I had a wander around the ruins of the Coniston Coppermines to make the most of this glorious day in the fabulous Coniston Fells. Despite the cold wind, the sunshine more than made up for the cold temperatures and when sheltered from the wind it was glorious. I wished I could have stayed on these high fells as long as possible and made the most of the sunshine, but I had made good progress on my challenge having reached the summit of six High Fells just on my first fabulous day.

Arnside Knott and Eaves Wood

Sunday 29th April 2018

As I set off from Arnside the sun was shining in the Lake District on the other side of the Kent Estuary and promised great things to come for me later in my holiday, while I was walking in the shade on the north facing bank below the steep slopes coming down to the village. It was looking like it was going to be a fabulous day and I was soon enjoying the walk along the beach beside Kent Channel. These sands are notorious for their fast moving tides, and for quicksand, so I was wisely keeping to the shore despite the low tide as I made my way over the rocks of Blackstone Point whereupon the vast expanse of Morecombe Bay came into view. Released from behind the hills I was now basking in the sunshine as I gazed across the sands towards Grange-over-Sands. This was a great start to the day and my second in the Arnside and Silverdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. I had never been to this area before so before spending two weeks in the Lake District I thought I would spend the weekend in this tragically neglected area and I was amazed at what I had been missing. My view across the sands continued to expand as I made my way south along the coast, but soon I had mud to contend with underfoot so after rounding Park Point I was thankful to spot a path that comes off the muddy beach and slowly climbs into the woods.

Passing through a holiday park I turned inland through Far Arnside heading for Arnside Knott, a hill that dominates this area and looks over Arnside. While the warning sirens sounded for the incoming tide, clear paths took me through the woodland and eventually brought me to a viewpoint that looks out over the estuary and towards the Lake District. A viewfinder names all the fells that are in sight and I couldn’t help looking for the tops that I was planning to climb over the next few days and contemplating the fabulous walking that I had in store. The early morning sunshine was now gone only to be replaced by clouds, but the Lakeland Fells were still visible and made me eager to cross the estuary as soon as possible so I could begin enjoying that most special place. Turning my back on the view I headed uphill to the trig point that marks the highest point on Arnside Knott, and from there to the top of a line of crags that affords great views towards the south. Beyond Arnside Tower I could see the woods of Middlebarrow and Eaves with Silverdale nestling behind.

Ahead lay my route, but with a precipitous cliff below I had to make a traverse to the right along the top until I could reach gentler ground where a descent could be safely made through the woods below the steep hillside until I could reach the road at the bottom. Passing the ruins of Arnside Tower I took a path that skirts the edge of a large caravan park while dodging a brief, sharp shower or two until eventually I reached Eaves Wood. Coming off the main path I climbed up through the woodland to a spectacular arrangement of limestone pavement that looks out over the sea of Morecombe Bay, and not far from there I came across a tall monument, known as the Pepperpot, that was erected to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Jubilee. Next to it, and in a quaint and complementary way, there is a viewfinder erected to celebrate Queen Elizabeth’s Jubilee. A path took me slowly down through the wood and eventually brought me to the edge of Silverdale village.

I still had plenty of time left before I had to catch my train, so I headed south exploring this wildflower-rich area passing many small areas of woodland. Although green plants were in abundance many of them were not yet in flower, although the wild garlic does not need to be in flower to be either instantly recognizable or strongly smelling, and there were plentiful displays of this sweet-smelling plant for me to see as I wandered around. Further south, beside the sea, is the National Trust property of Jack Scout which was full of wild flowers including cowslip and loads of celandines that provided me with plenty to see as I came round Jenny Brown’s Point and into the mouth of Leighton Moss turning inland once more as I headed towards Silverdale railway station. Like the previous day, this was not a full day’s walk as I had a bit more travelling ahead of me to get into the Lake District, but I was still able to sample a little more of the delights that Arnside and Silverdale has to offer. Despite the sunny start to the day, the weather was not as great as I had enjoyed the day before, but I enjoyed exploring this amazing area that is notable for its limestone crags and wild flowers. This weekend was a fabulous warm up before the start of my two week adventure in the Lake District.

Warton Crag and Gait Barrows

Saturday 28th April 2018

For the last ten years I have been going to Scotland for two weeks at the end of May, but this year I decided that I would go to the Lake District instead, and a month earlier at the end of April. I have been to the Lake District many times before, but never for two whole weeks so I was really looking forward to this holiday, but I was not starting in the Lake District, rather just outside in the Arnside and Silverdale Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. I got off the train in Carnforth and immediately I could see my first objective, Warton Crag, which dominates the view from the town. The weather was astonishingly sunny considering the rain that had accompanied me as I left home so I was happy as I walked beside the road towards Warton eventually turning off into fields where I promptly got confused. The layout of the fields didn’t match what was on my map so it took me a while before I eventually reached the road above where I could already see extensive views across Morecombe Bay that would develop as I climbed further up the hill. Leaving the road I climbed through woodland sparsely populated by immature bluebells that had been delayed by the cold, late winter.

As I climbed I tried to pick a route through the maze of paths that headed straight up the hill regardless of the gradient and the occasional, brief, mild scrambling required in order to reach the top, and I loved every moment. Many wild flowers decorated the ascent with abundant displays of celandine, generous amounts of cowslip further up the hill and even the occasional early purple orchid and scatterings of primroses. This was a great walk climbing through bands of limestone and was a great sweetener to my fortnight in the Lake District. Eventually I reached the top of Warton Crag where I had tremendous views looking out over Morecombe Bay, but I had to turn my back on that as I continued north soon reaching a bridlepath that took me west gradually descending with the sound of gunshots to my right all the way down to a road that continued the descent to Crag Foot. Ramsons decorated the road side and in the small wood on my right, not far from the clay pigeon shooting range that I had heard earlier.

While the sun hid behind clouds I took a path through several fields and through a delightful wooded area where I had lunch sitting on a limestone outcrop before eventually reaching the edge of Hyning Scout Wood which is supposed to be good for bluebells, but clearly was not at the point where I was standing. Turning north through a field of celandines I headed into Deepdale Wood and later Cringlebarrow Wood following the path all the way to Yealand Sorrs as the sun came out once more. A wide track took me through the young woodland of Yealand Hall Allotment, but when I tried to head to Hawes Water I found my way blocked by felling operations. I was directed to follow the route of the logging trucks and was accompanied by an old gentleman who was also having to divert. After following the rutted tracks for a while we diverted off and headed up to an astonishing limestone pavement that was quite unlike anything that I had previous seen in the Yorkshire Dales. It was angled on a slope so that the grikes all ran parallel to each other down the slope and was for a tremendous sight.

I was in Gait Barrows Nature Reserve and it was a dramatic sight that benefited from the sunshine that had come out for me at this point showing me what I had been missing all these years by going straight past Arnside and Silverdale on my way to the Lake District. Landscape like this should not be missed, especially in spring when wild flowers are to be found in abundance. Primroses, cowslip and wood anemones displayed their wares for us as we wandered around the site until I finally parted company with the old man who had been my guide as I continued my journey north to Arnside. I soon reached my objective so I prolonged the walk by wandering around Dobshall Wood and Grubbins Wood that are near Arnside, but though they passed the time they didn’t satisfy what I had been looking for. My main goal on this walk had been to look for bluebells, but the only ones that I had saw were very immature, however there were many other wild flowers to be seen particularly in the nature reserves of Warton Crag and Gait Barrows. The good weather through this wildflower-rich limestone country made this a good walk through a tragically overlooked area.