Return to Dimminsdale

Saturday 2nd and 16th February 2019

Just as last year, as soon as I saw that snowdrops had come out in my garden I headed over to North-West Leicestershire to visit the Dimminsdale Nature Reserve again so I could see their splendid display of snowdrops that never fails to delight me, especially at this time of the year when all else is dull. After parking at the southern end of Staunton Harold Reservoir again I retraced my steps of the year before onto the permissive trail of the Staunton Harold Ridgeway. Unlike previously when the field was really muddy, the ground was now frozen solid, which is always the best time to go walking in the winter with clear blue skies overhead and rock hard soil underfoot. The views were stunning and when Staunton Harold Hall emerged from amongst the trees I was confronted with a truly impressive view across the frost-encrusted grass and down to the stately home and church. Once I reached the garden centre at the back of the hall I was unsure where to go next as I’d not come with any plan in mind and no map. I had started following last year’s route just on a whim, but now I had to make a decision.

Despite Dimminsdale being my only real goal I turned left away from the reserve and headed into the young woodlands of Bignall’s  and Jaguar Lount Wood. A good, surfaced path took through these National Forest woods until at the far end I saw a wide track heading west, the course of a disused railway, which passes through more mature woodland that is always a lot more pleasurable to walk amongst. At the end I came across a track that I assumed was the National Forest Way so I turned north, but it soon deteriorated into a heavily overgrown path so it was obviously not the right trail. After a turn to the west the faint path continued until eventually I came across a much clearer trail, which was actually marked as the National Forest Way. I have followed this section of the trail several times before, first in 2015 when I followed it into Dimminsdale where I discovered the tremendous display that can be found there of snowdrops for the first time, and now I repeated that route all the way into the reserve and the delightful snowdrops.

It was still quite early in the season so I was not seeing the snowdrops at their peak, but there was still a fabulous display of these lovely, white flowers that bloom in the depths of winter. After walking around the frozen laundry pool in the reserve I headed back to my car to have my lunch as I tried to decide where to go next. With the sun still shining I decided to extend the walk into Calke Park, so I continued along the National Forest Way passing the only half full Staunton Harold Reservoir and rather than going all the way to Calke Abbey I branched off across several fields that were now rather slippery thanks the warming sun following the path into the Ticknall Limeyards. I had passed through these former limestone quarries the year before with some work colleagues, but since that was a similar time of year I feel I really must return later in the year to see the area at its best. I had intended on bringing my colleagues back to Dimminsdale and Calke Park two weeks after this walk, but things all fell apart with each person in turn pulling out until eventually I was left on my own.

Despite this I started by following the walk that I’d planned, which was similar to the walk that I’d done two weeks previously. It was now warmer and the skies were overcast so the view of Staunton Harold Hall was less impressive, though the accompaniment of loud birdsong added to the walk this time. Round the back of the hall I took the labelled Yew Tree Path, which I hadn’t taken before and immediately saw snowdrops in the grounds behind the hall. On the other side of the garden centre I followed the route that I’d taken the year before through the Marie Curie Field of Hope onto the National Forest Way, which finally brought me, once again, to the snowdrops in Dimminsdale that were now at their peak and giving me a fabulous display. Since it was still quite early in the day I had this stunning sight to myself so I was able to take loads of pictures as the sun began to shine across the blooms until eventually I was fully satisfied and could wait for another year to see snowdrops. It was becoming unseasonably warm, almost spring-like as I finally tore myself away from the snowdrops and headed around the reserve and towards Calke Park.

When I reached the site of Calke Abbey, now a stately home owned by the National Trust, I decided to veer off the route that I had planned for my work colleagues. Since I was sadly on my own I turned right instead of left onto the National Forest Way passing Mere Pond, but soon I came off the trail to take the path that passes above the pond and past the ancient oak known as the Old Man of Calke. Heading north I took a route through Serpentine Wood that later in the year would be full of bluebells, and even now I thought I could see tiny shoots of the young plants. By this point it was really warm and sunny and I was enjoying my walk around Calke Park, but there was not much left of the park for me to explore, so I turned left onto the slippery path towards the Ticknall Limeyards that I had taken two weeks earlier, but it was interesting to see how much drier the ground was now. We still haven’t had enough rain to reverse the effect of the hot, dry summer last year, which means the ground is really firm and easy to walk upon, although this is very unusual for this time of the year.

Rather than going through the limeyards I turned right to do a circumnavigation of the reservoir, however there is not a good path all the way round. When I reached the town of Melbourne at the northern end I turned south passing the picturesque pond known simply as the Pool, which was packed with wild fowl and was a lovely sight. The footpath from there on, however, was dull, passing through many farmers’ fields until I reached a sign for a permissive path, the same one that I had started the walk on which took me through Spring Wood and back to my car. The first walk had not been particularly exciting, especially when passing the young woodland or back along the National Forest Way, although the frozen ground had been fun while it lasted. It is amazing the difference two weeks makes as the second walk was lovely, mainly thanks to a bit of warmth that enlivened everything and made this a much more enjoyable walk. The highlight was what the main goal of both walks had been: to see the snowdrops in Dimminsdale, which produced a stunning display this year, but unfortunately I was not able to share it with anyone this time.

Dimminsdale and Calke Abbey

Saturday 17th February and 10th March 2018

Ever since I first encountered the nature reserve at Dimminsdale, on the border between Leicestershire and Derbyshire, I have made a point of returning every year to see the stunning display of snowdrops that are extra special at this time of the year when everything else is still hibernating for winter. Last year was no different as I parked at the southern end of Staunton Harold Reservoir as I had before, but this time I headed away from Dimminsdale at first onto a permissive path that is described as the Staunton Harold Ridgeway and affords stunning views over the valley. Unfortunately I was more concerned with staying upright as the ground was very muddy and there were not many opportunities to admire the view. Coming off the fields the terrain improved as I entered a small area of woodland and started to descend a delightful path that was perched high above the steep valley slopes. When I came out of the trees I beheld a wondrous sight down to the stately Staunton Harold Hall and Church.

I had never taken this route before and was quite taken by the view before me that looked spellbinding that included manufactured gardens even though I usually prefer wilder surroundings. Feeling somewhat as if I was intruding I descended the steep grassy slopes and crossed the causeway between the ponds and walking past the front of the hall I tried to have a look around Staunton Harold Church. This is owned by the National Trust, but it didn’t seem to be open so I walked back past the front of the hall and paused beside the northern pond to take a few pictures before moving on around the back of the hall where I found the Ferrers Centre for Arts & Crafts and Staunton Harold Nurseries & Garden Centre. After a brief stop at the garden centre where I resisted the temptation to buy anything I continued on my walk passing through the Marie Curie Cancer Care Field of Hope. I remember walking through this field a few years earlier when it was full of daffodils, but I was now a few weeks too early.

Another muddy field brought me to Heath End on the route of the National Forest Way and Ivanhoe Way. Both of these head straight towards Dimminsdale but I was delaying that delight as I headed across the road and onto a path into Calke Park. This was just as muddy as the path I had encountered earlier so I was began to despair. The purpose of this walk had actually been to reconnoitre a route for taking some people from work for a walk a few weeks later, and so far all I’d found was mud. In the event on that occasion we had headed straight into Dimminsdale where I showed them the delights of the wondrous displays of snowdrops that still looked amazing despite clearly being past their best. Three weeks earlier I hadn’t stayed in Calke Park very long as being unable to contain my anticipation any longer I headed back to Dimminsdale where I found a bountiful display of snow drops at their very best covering the ground. After taking many photos my patience was rewarded as the setting sun finally came out to spotlight these delightfully delicate flowers.

Three weeks later, after visiting Dimminsdale, we made our way along good cyclepaths into Calke Park avoiding the muddy fields that I had encountered earlier. Despite the Beast from the East having passed through Britain only a week or two earlier, these paths were easy to walk on and relatively dry as we headed through Poker’s Leys wood and joined the route of the National Forest Way. Upon reaching the Ticknall Tramway tunnel we turned off the trail and plunged through the long, dark tunnel to enter the limeyards. I first entered this fascinating area the year before and was keen to show it off to my work colleagues who joined me in exploring this former lime quarry. We had a good look around the area where the lime used to be prepared in deep kilns and the bridges that still remain as part of the tramway that took this lime off to the nearby Ashby Canal and around the country. Eventually we turned south out of the limeyards to rejoin the National Forest Way now heading into the heart of Calke Park.

Passing Betty’s Pond and Mere Pond we followed the National Forest Way around the deer sanctuary where we could see the deer all huddled close together keeping warm in the cold weather. The path now descended all the way down to Staunton Harold Reservoir and following the trail we walked along a road passing the entrance to Dimminsdale Nature Reserve and back to the car park where we had started. I love snow drops so I was overjoyed to see them at their best last year, and although it was a shame my colleagues were not as lucky they were still impressed by the tremendous displays of snow drops that can be seen at Dimminsdale.

Return to the Chiltern Hills

Saturday 23rd June 2018

Last summer, several months after my Easter holiday in the Chiltern Hills and beyond, I returned to these fabulous rolling wooded hills. Parking in the village of Stokenchurch I immediately joined the route of the Chiltern Way that I had often followed the previous April, but after passing underneath the motorway I branched off and headed south through a wonderfully wooded valley that provided me with pleasant walking under tall trees with dappled shade and rich overgrown plants, even if mostly nettle. It was a great to be walking in such warm weather and bright sunshine through lush woodland. The weather last summer was great in its sustained, settled conditions that aided many walks to be done and I was eager to make the most of it. After a while I reached a crossroads of paths and even though I checked my map I still took the wrong one that gradually climbed out of the valley, which should have told me immediately that I was going the wrong way, but it wasn’t until I reached some houses on the outskirts of Ibstone that I realised I had gone completely the wrong way. Rather than retrace my steps back into the valley I walked along the road for a bit before descending back into the valley on another footpath to rejoin the bottom of the valley that I should never have left in the first place.

Eventually the valley began to the broaden and just before I reached the road at Gravesend I turned right and took a path that climbs steeply up over Turville Hill and steeply down the other side into the lovely little village of Turville. This descent was so steep I was worried about my knees after the pounding they had sustained while I was in the Lake District not long before, but I had such no problems with my knees as they failed to complain about such a short, though sharp descent. Upon passing through the beautiful village of Turville I was now back on the Chiltern Way (southern arm) as I gradually climbed beside a gorgeous meadow that was filled with many wild flowers especially ox-eye daisy that got me excited and full of joy to be back in the Chiltern Hills. The wonders came thick and fast but when I reflected back on the walk several hours later for this blog I wished I’d made notes of the highlights as I was passing them. It could be my age, though I’ve never had a great memory, but although this was an enjoyable walk I can’t remember much about what happened at this point in the walk.

This was a lovely walk with the weather not too hot, and certainly not as hot as it had been last summer, which made for a much more pleasant walk. Continuing along the Chiltern Way I passed Southend Farm and through the foxglove-rich Kildridge Wood to enter Stonor Park. The centrepiece of this deer park is the grand Stonor House that looks an amazing place and made me feel really inappropriately dressed. According to Wikipedia this was the location for the Bladen safe house in the Bond film "The Living Daylights", although I didn’t know this when I passed. It looked like it was being used for a wedding so even though I was on a public footpath some distance to the south of the house I still felt like I was intruding. Passing out of Stonor Park and through the village I eventually reached the point where I wanted to come off the Chiltern Way and onto the Oxfordshire Way heading north through Pishillbury Wood. Further on, after passing through meadows rich in wild flowers, I reached College Wood, which I had passed through a couple of months earlier when I remember it was full of infant bluebells, but these were all now sadly long gone.

Turning right I was back on the Chiltern Way (northern arm) and a route that I had taken previously, but just for one field. At Hollandridge Farm I kept on the Chiltern Way whereas previously, going in opposite direction, I had headed along Hollandridge Lane. Passing through Fire Wood and a meadow full of purple flowers that to me looked like some sort of vetch/pea I eventually headed into Blackmoor Wood and rejoined the route that I had taken at Easter. Ground that had been muddy just a couple of months before was now completely dry including the rutted path in Commonhill Wood that I remembered previously straddling either side of a deep mud-filled rut was now an easy walk uphill. This path brought me up to Ibstone Common not far from the point where I had come into Ibstone by mistake earlier in the walk, but now no mistake was made as I continued along the Chiltern Way retracing my steps of last Easter to head down into Hartmoor Wood and eventually back to Stokenchurch.

This walk wasn’t particularly long, but it was good taking advantage of the good weather and to reacquaint myself with the delights of the Chiltern Hills especially the wild flowers that grow abundantly in this area. It was amazing to see the difference in the condition of the paths between Easter when the ground was very muddy and on this walk, just a couple of months later, when the ground was bone dry. It was the woods that were the delight in spring, but now as summer had come it was the turn of the meadows to show their best and in the Chiltern Hills there are fabulous displays of wild flowers that will always keep drawing me back.

The Ridgeway: Avebury

Friday 6th April 2018

Setting off from the Barbury Castle car park once again I began my last stage on the Ridgeway National Trial that I had started almost a year earlier in Wendover and was now nearing completion. After gorgeous weather for the previous day I now at best had rather dull, hazy sunshine but with a bitterly cold wind that forced me to wrap up tight as I made my way south along a byway. Compared with the previous day I only had a small distance left to walk along the Ridgeway, which was very welcome as my excessive walking of the past couple of days had left me feeling very tired and the ankle on my left leg was beginning to ache. The Marlborough Downs are covered in byways that are mixed in the quality of their surfaces with many having a firm chalky ground that is easy to walk upon, but some I found to be waterlogged and muddy. As I made my south many people were galloping horses in the nearby fields, making use of the forgiving ground in the area, but this has no interest for me so I left them behind until eventually I came across a road where I found a much nicer path to walk upon as it was narrower without the space for motor vehicles.

At the top of the path I found the route of the Wessex Ridgeway, which extends the Ridgeway south all the way to Lyme Regis on the Dorset coast and starts in the town of Marlborough not far from where I was now joining it. Heading west I entered the Fyfield Down National Nature Reserve where the ground is scattered with large sandstone boulders called sarsen stones, although these stones are known as Grey Wethers. My map indicates the area is full of ancient settlements and tumuli, but I could see nothing of interest except a few stones. Slowly the weather began to warm up and hazy sunshine was beginning to break through the clouds so by this point my fleece and woolly hat came off and the day slowly became quite pleasant though still with a cold breeze. It was a relief to be enjoying another day of good weather during this week of mixed conditions that had not been pleasant at times.

Eventually I crossed the Ridgeway and began descending into the village of Avebury where there are three stone circles including the largest in the world. These are not complete circles, and it is not as spectacular as Stonehenge, but it was still interesting to see these enormous stones standing on their ends, and to touch them and feel the history that has passed by in the view of these stones. I wondered what the country was like when these stone circles were being erected and what had provoked the ancient Britons to engage in such a monumental effort. Leaving Avebury I headed beside the River Kennet with the obviously man-made mound of Silbury Hill ahead of me. This is the tallest prehistoric man-made mound in Europe and is one of the largest in the world, though its original purpose is unknown. I didn’t bother to investigate the mound but continued along the path over the busy A4 road and up to the West Kennett Long Barrow, but this ancient burial mound also didn’t interest me as I had my eyes only on the start, or end, of the Ridgeway trail, which lies near the tiny village of East Kennett.

The original Ridge Way, the ancient road that lends its name to the National Trail does not end at this point but continued south to the Dorset coast. The person who created the modern trail decided to start it beside the A4 trunk road half a mile north of East Kennett, so after crossing the road I set off along the Ridgeway passing tumuli and other ancient remains to head north along the trail and finally complete my trek. By now my ankle was really aching so I just hobbled along the generally good track slowly making my way back to Barbury Castle. Eventually I reached the Iron Age hill fort and although I had parked near it the day before and at the beginning of this walk I finally walked through the circular ramparts and on to return to my car. This was a curious holiday that failed to engage my enthusiasm. I had not originally planned to spend the whole holiday walking the Ridgeway and had actually planned some walks beside the River Thames through Henley. However, once I had completed the Ridgeway I didn’t stay in the area for the last day of my holiday and instead headed home stopping at Bletchley Park again on the way.

My walk along the Ridgeway had originally started as an excuse to see bluebells and became a way of doing some walking south of home when usually I go north for my walking. The Chiltern Hills are a fabulous place for walking, especially in late spring and summer when the area is full of wild flowers, but during my walking last Easter there were few, if any, wild flowers due to the late winter and this detracted from the walking for me. The North Wessex Downs were not able to engage my enthusiasm like the Chiltern Hills, but neither of them were able to interest me in the same way as a good rock-covered mountain. That is principally where my interest lies and there is nowhere south of home where such terrain can be found, so I think in future I will still almost always be found either north, or west in Wales.