Cotswold Way - Dowdeswell to Barrow Wake

Saturday 12th June 2021

Last Easter I started walking the Cotswold Way as a series of day walks and by the time of this walk I had reached Dowdeswell on the A40 road east of Cheltenham. Good weather prompted me to resume my trek along the Cotswold Way so I drove down the M6 motorway and parked at Barrow Wake where there are awesome views across the Vale of Gloucester. My only aim at the start of the walk was to get back to Dowdeswell so I turned off the main road onto the Gloucestershire Way that initially passed through dark woodland where there were many wildflowers before emerging onto wide, open fields that were never going to be as interesting as the escarpments on the Cotswold Way, but were decorated with many flowers including buttercups and red clover. After descending into a valley filled with sheep I followed the bottom for quite a while until I realised that I was going the wrong way so I had to backtrack to the point where I had entered the valley and take a path that crosses the northern slopes. Although this was rather annoying, the path I should have been on was so much better as it was covered in wildflowers of all sorts.

After passing through the village of Coberley I reached Upper Coberley where the first house I saw was generously ornamented with many flowers of many colours and was a fabulous sight and later on I even saw my favourite wildflower: spotted-orchids. These sights and waymarking for a Cotswold Way alternative encouraged me to keep going as I turned north and came off the route of the Gloucestershire Way to follow a bridlepath into Chatcombe Wood. I could hear gunshots ahead and soon I could even smell it as I passed close to Ian Coley Shooting School and thankfully I eventually reached the safety of the road. After passing over Wistley Hill I came out onto the escarpment overlooking the Chelt Valley with the Cotswold Way passing by where I was standing. Unfortunately the point where I had previously left the trail was at the bottom of the valley so I had to find a way down the steep hillside until I found the route of the Cheltenham Circular Footpath that took me down a ridge all the way to the bottom of the valley.

The weather had been rather overcast throughout the morning, which was a blessing as it had kept things cool, but as I turned onto the Cotswold Way to resume my trek, the sun came out and it started to get very hot. Slowly, I toiled up the steep path through Lineover Wood with the good surface underfoot helping to carry me all the way back up the hill until finally the gradient eased and I followed the path that keeps to the edge of the steep escarpment precipitously above the wood. Although very steep, this was a thrilling climb and by the time I reached the point where I had emerged onto the edge earlier I was happy to stop for my lunch and enjoy the great views before me that were now lit by the bright sunshine. The Cotswold Way from this point was an absolute delight as it largely keeps to the edge of the escarpment. After passing around Wistley Hill the trail crosses a saddle before climbing up to Hartley Hill passing through an area of seemingly dead gorse that lined the edge and whose brown leaves were visible from a long way.

I thoroughly enjoyed the walk along the edge of the escarpment as it passes through stunning scenery often on rocky ground as I climbed up to Leckhampton Hill with extensive views out west over Cheltenham and Gloucester. Passing the trig point that marks the highest point on Leckhampton Hill, I rounded the corner beside a rock formation known as Devil’s Chimney and began to descend onto a road. This brief dull section soon had me climbing again along a track and up a road until eventually the trail finally passed into more dramatic scenery to follow the escarpment edge through lovely woodland and into Crickley Hill Country Park. The fabulous views continued when I emerged from the woodland as I walked around the dramatic hill until eventually the trail turns sharply east and with my back to the views I gradually descended to the main road finally climbing back up to the car park where I had started the walk.

This was a fabulous walk with very hot weather in the afternoon that quickly drained the energy out of me and left me rather numb to the stunning views that were constantly to my right as I made my way along the escarpment. The Cotswold Way was at its best on this section and was an absolute delight to walk along despite the hot weather. I was in awe of the tremendous scenery that I saw on this walk, so it was tragic that it would be many months before I returned to the Cotswold Way.

Ashridge Estate boundary trail walk

Saturday 1st May 2021

Four years before this walk I came to the Ashridge Estate for the first time as part of the Ridgeway trail and on that occasion I saw some of the bluebells that the National Trust property is famous for and I have wanted to return ever since to see these most delightful flowers. Bluebells flower for only a few short weeks in the spring and generally peak in the first weekend in May, however April last year was cold which delayed the bluebells flowering so they were not at their peak yet, nevertheless I was still hoping for a good display. I parked beside the road in Hudnall Common on the edge of the Ashridge Estate and after setting off along a bridlepath I immediately saw some bluebells in the woodland on the edge of the common, which encouraged me for the walk to come. The path took me out of Hudnall Common and upon crossing a road I entered a wood in the Ashridge Estate and was confronted by the gorgeous smell of garlic from the ramsons that littered the woodland floor as I descended into the Golden Valley. There I joined the route of the Ashridge Estate boundary trail walk, which is described on the National Trust website and provided me with a good, long walk around the estate.

The boundary trail as described starts from the Ashridge visitor centre going in a clockwise direction, but since I was starting from the other side of the ridge I decided to do the walk in the opposite direction so I headed up the grassy Golden Valley with woodland lining either side and the sun shining overhead, but sadly the good weather would not last.  After passing over a tarmac road I skirted around a golf course and followed the waymarked path past the backs of houses with large gardens filled with flowers including bluebells and daffodils. Leaving the golf course behind, the well signposted path took me through woodland and over a road to a small reservoir. Turning left I followed the edge of Ringshall Coppice where I could see some bluebells desperately trying to come through, while to my left was Dockey Wood, which is famous for its bluebells. Although I couldn’t enter the wood from my path I could see many bluebells and also many people walking through the wood. I diverted to the corner of the wood to have a peer inside, but I couldn’t get very close to have a good look, though I was happy with the distant sight of carpets of bluebells so continued along the path towards Ward’s Hurst Farm.

Entering a wood called the Coombe I found an abundance of wild garlic and dog’s mercury as I continued along the path through the wood until I emerged with a view before me of Irvinghoe Beacon. Diverting onto a wide track I walked around the edge of an arable field and up to the top of the descending ridge that comes down from the Beacon where I had far-reaching views to the north and west across the Vale of Aylesbury. Turning up the wide, grassy ridge I slowly climbed up to top of Irvinghoe Beacon where the Ridgeway trail has its northern terminus and where I had visited four years earlier. Now, I set off along the Ridgeway again passing lovely displays of cowslips, but by this point in the day the sunshine that I had enjoyed earlier was marred by dark clouds that threatened rain. The Ridgeway took me around the top of Incombe Hole and down the hill, until at a crossway of paths I turned left to keep to the undeveloped land climbing back up the hill and into the woodland where I found more bluebells and it started raining. With a wide track underfoot I headed along the ever more popular path heading towards the Ashridge visitor centre while the rain continued to fall until I reached the Bridgewater Monument.

Four years before I had seen a vast number of bluebells just a little way south of the visitor centre so now I attempted to find that spot as the rain eased and I found that, as elsewhere, the bluebells were not as extensive as they had previously been due to the cold spring. With the skies remaining overcast it was now quite cold as I continued along the trail. On reaching Northchurch Common I, without realising it, left the boundary trail taking a route straight across the common as I simply headed straight ahead and even when I realised I had gone the wrong way I still just kept going straight ahead of me until eventually I reached Northchurch Farm where I found a signpost for the boundary trail as if I’d never left it. As the boundary trail crossed several farmer’s fields I seriously considered abandoning it as it was no longer fun. A direct route back to my car was an easy straight course and would avoid another golf course, but instead I turned right in a wood following the boundary trail, though I was still undecided on whether to keep to the trail. The walk through the wood kept my spirits up and the sun appeared to further encourage me while the path avoided almost any problems while traversing the golf course, so in the end, much to my surprise, I kept to the boundary trail.

Coming off the golf course, I passed between houses and into Great Frithsden Copse descending steeply through the gorgeous woodland where immature bluebells were scattered across the woodland floor. The undeveloped bluebells let this walk down when at this time of the year they are usually better developed, but when the boundary trail was not on farmer’s fields it was an enjoyable walk. Climbing up the hill beyond I passed through several grassy fields and soon I was descending into the Golden Valley and back to the point where I had joined the boundary trail. It was probably never worth cutting the trail short as I didn’t have much left to do and it wasn’t long before I was climbing out of the valley onto the bridlepath that took me back to Hudnall Common. This was a rather mixed walk with some bluebells and other wildflowers, but not as many as I’d hoped. The weather was also mixed with not much sunshine and some prolonged rain in the middle of the day. The boundary trail was generally well signposted, though there were sections where I had difficulty and at one point I went completely the wrong way. However, it was great to do a prolonged walk to stretch my legs and woodland walking is always a pleasure.

Cotswold Way - Winchcombe to Dowdeswell

Saturday 24th April 2021

Last Easter I started walking the Cotswold Way as a series of day walks and after two days I had reached the small market town of Winchcombe. I was eager to continue the trail, so it wasn’t long before I was back in Winchcombe enjoying fabulous blue skies although initially with a bit of a chill in the air as I set off out of the town on the route of the Cotswold Way climbing the hill out of the valley. On crossing a road I entered a wood and was immediately greeting by gorgeous woodland flowers including dog’s mercury, bluebells and celandines. I soon passed through this wood and continued to climb until the gradient thankfully eased and I was walking beside a delightful wood that was overflowing with wild flowers, especially bluebells that looked fabulous even though it was a little early in the season for them to be at their best. At the ancient burial mound of Bela Knap Long Barrow I turned right away from the wood and across the hilltop before turning right again and entering another wood. Turning right yet again, I descended steeply through Breakheart Plantation into the valley of the River Isbourne where I came across a field liberally decorated with cowslips that were a joy to behold.

After crossing the valley and passing the grand, old buildings of Postlip Hall I entered the open upland of Cleeve Common where I had superb views across the Severn Valley, but I was irritated to discovery that much of the common has been ruined by a golf course. Fortunately, the Cotswold Way manoeuvres around the Golf Club with many signposts that directed me away from danger as I slowly climbed the hill with improving views behind me until I eventually reached the trig point and viewfinder at the 317 metre top of Cleeve Hill, that is the highest point on the whole trail. The highest point in the Cotswolds is much further back across the common but the Cotswold Way does not reach it. Instead, it keeps to the western edge of Cleeve Common as the amazing views continued across the broad valley while I left Cleeve Common and entered Prestbury Hill Nature Reserve. Cowslips now littered the grassy slopes as I continued south on the Cotswold Way through stunning surroundings that entranced me until eventually on leaving the reserve the terrain deteriorated and I ended up on a road.

Two miles of dull walking followed until after passing Upper Colgate Farm I came to the edge of Dowdeswell Wood where the Cotswold Way just follows this edge of the wood steeply down to Dowdeswell Reservoir and ignores the wood itself. However, the delights on the narrow strip between the path and outside the wood more than made up for not entering the wood as here I found wild garlic carpeting the bank and lower down bluebells shone brightly in the sunshine. This absolute delight accompanied me all the way down to the reservoir and from there I made my way onto the busy A40 road and the lowest point on the Cotswold Way since I had left Winchcombe. I decided this would be a good place to leave the trail for the day so I headed down the road into the city of Cheltenham soon leaving the road to cross the River Chelt and join the route of the Cheltenham Circular Footpath.

This largely kept me away from the houses and took me on some interesting paths notably beside Ham Brook until I reached Noverton where I left the footpath and climbed back up the escarpment. It was gruelling having to do such a steep climb this late in the walk, but I had no choice as I had to get back over Cleeve Hill. The radio masts at the top of the hill seemed to be teasing me as I toiled away slowly climbing tedious grassy slopes that were waterlogged and with no sign of a path, which just made the climb even tougher. Eventually I found a way through and back into Prestbury Hill Nature Reserve where I was once more greeted by many cowslips, which enabled me to keep going all the way up to the road at the top with the radio masts not far away. My plan from there was to follow the Winchcombe Way back, but first I wanted to reach the highest point in the Cotswolds which was a short distance away beside a fence and is marked by a trig point, but the terrain is so flat at this point it hardly merits attention.

Crossing the broad plateau I joined the Winchcombe Way and following that down I was soon joined by the Cotswold Way crossing farmland back to Bela Knap Long Barrow. The Winchcombe Way later parted company with the Cotswold Way and I kept to the former past Wadfield Farm and all the way down the hill into Winchcombe. The steep climb up Cleeve Hill had drained all the energy out of me leaving me really tired for the long descent back into Winchcombe so I hardly noticed the passing scenery, but the best had already been seen on the way out. The weather was fabulous for this walk and it helped to make the many wildflowers that I saw look fabulous. It was great to be walking in such good weather and with far-reaching views across the Severn Valley I really enjoyed seeing all the wonderful woodland plants that never failed to delight me.

Where are the closest hills to me?

At the beginning of 2009 I wondered where the nearest hill above one thousand feet was to me and after a study of a road map I decided it was Alport Height in Derbyshire, so I did a walk to the hill that I found is adorned with many aerials. Last year during the darkest days of lockdown, I was wondering if with the aid of Bing Maps I might more accurately be able to determine the location of the nearest one thousand foot hill to me, so I calculated the distance from my house, just outside Leicester, to Alport Height and other contending hills. After much hunting I discovered that I had been right twelve years before as Alport Height is less than forty miles from my house whereas all the other possible hills were more than forty miles away. Having determined that, I started looking at hills that are the closest to other heights. Going metric, Alport Height is the closest hill above three hundred metres, so I started looking for a hill above four hundred metres. Eventually I found a ridge called Morridge on the southern edge of the Peak District whose southern end has a trig point at the height of 405 metres. This is less than fifty miles from my house, but it would not make for a good walk as a road runs along the top of the ridge.

Moving up to five hundred metres high I didn’t have to look far to discover the highest point on the Roaches is 505 metres and this is a brilliant place to walk having been several times over the years including both in 2015 and last year when I included a visit to the fabulous fissure called Lud’s Church that I remember visiting when I was a child. The six hundred metre height is easily satisfied by the highest point in the Peak District, Kinder Scout, which tops at 636 metres and is just over sixty miles from my house. I have been over Kinder Scout many times since my first ascent in 1998 during my first walking holiday and most recently, in 2020, I navigated across the Kinder plateau to the highest point on the vast moor that sits at the top of Kinder Scout. To find the nearest seven hundred metre height I had to look in a completely different direction and head west to the Brecon Beacons where the eastern ridge of the Black Mountains reaches its highest point of 703 metres on an unnamed spot south of Hay Bluff. I first passed over this point in 1999 on a walk that I have since considered to be my first mountain walk and I have been over it many times since including whenever I do that exact same walk again in honour of that first mountain walk. That ridge is about ninety miles from my house and you don't have to go far to find the nearest eight hundred metre height.

Towards the western edge of the Black Mountains is Waun Fach, the highest point in the Black Mountains, but it is a boggy lump with no redeeming qualities. Fortunately the much shapelier neighbouring peak of Pen y Gadair Fawr also tops at eight hundred metres and is slightly closer to my house at about ninety five miles away. This has a much smaller, better defined top with some rock outcrops and is a more satisfying target. I climbed this peak on a cold day in February 2005 while in 2019 I approached it from the south along the ridge above the Mynydd Du Forest. I love the Black Mountains and its status as being the closest mountains to Leicester is one of the reasons why it was where that I carried out much of my earliest mountain walking. The highest point in the Brecon Beacons is less than nine hundred metres high so for that height we need to look elsewhere, but still in Wales. The Berwyn range missed out on the eight hundred metre title by the smallest amount, but there is a range of hills not far away from there that tops nine hundred metres. Aran Fawddwy doesn't reach three thousand feet so is ignored by many walkers, but at 905 metres high it should not be ignored. I climbed the ridge from near the southern end of Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake) in 2004 on a Bank Holiday Monday in excellent weather and I had a fabulous walk where I hardly saw another soul. It is a shame I have never been back as I have only good memories of this awesome walk.

The one thousand metre height is not crossed anywhere in England and only four mountains in Wales achieve that goal. There is not much difference in the distance from my house to these mountains as they are all about 125 miles away, but Carnedd Llewellyn edges it and is a fine mountain to climb. I have climbed it many times starting with my first ascent in 2003 through to my most recent in 2019 and thoroughly deserved to be singled out in my series on great mountains. To continue this search for the closest mountains to me I now have to head into Scotland and in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park is the nearest eleven hundred metre height upon Stob Binnein, though we have had to travel a long way to get there as it is almost three hundred miles away from Leicester. I climbed Stob Binnein in 2005 along with its slightly higher, though further north, neighbour, Ben More, in poor, windy weather. It was not the best weather to appreciate this pair of mountains, so a return visit in better weather is called for, though I would have enjoyed the walk more if I had done it in the opposite direction, anticlockwise around Coire Chaorach.

The closest twelve hundred metre mountain is not far from Stob Binnein, though it lies outside the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park, and is Ben Lawers, which lies just over three hundred miles away. I climbed this mountain in 2007 in terrible weather coming from the east on a round of the hills north of Ben Lawers. The weather the day after was fabulous, so after walking along the Tarmachan ridge I climbed Ben Lawers again, this time from the west. Only two mountains in Britain are more than thirteen hundred metres high: Ben Nevis and Ben Macdui. They are both about 325 miles away from me, but it is the smaller of the two that takes the prize. I climbed Ben Macdui in 2005 enjoying great weather that I'm glad I took advantage of as on all subsequent visits bad weather kept me away until finally last year I managed to return to Ben Macdui and once again I was fortunate to have excellent weather for the ascent. It was fun calculating the nearest mountains to me, but during lockdown where I really wanted to be was at the top of those mountains. I missed hillwalking during lockdown so I was glad when last year I was finally able to climb these iconic mountains again. I hope I am able to do so again this year and to again experience the awesome feeling of being at the top of a great mountain with a view that stretches over many other mountains.