Saturday 26th March 2005
I felt rather tired and weak during this walk; I didn't feel like I had the energy for a full Lakeland walk, but somehow I still managed to do a fairly strenuous walk even though I might have enjoyed it more in better circumstances. The walk started with a pleasurable stroll along the shore of Buttermere before beginning the seemingly unending ascent of Fleetwith Pike. There were tremendous views behind me over the lake as I undertook the great climb with good weather following me up that unfortunately wasn't to last. From the summit I headed past the quarry to the Drum House on the dismantled tramway and up the path opposite heading across the western slopes of Grey Knotts. I crossed the fence near Brandreth, bypassing the top of the hill and followed the cairns to Green Gable where I had brilliant views across the Borrowdale Fells and all the way to the Langdale Pikes. I don't think I had ever been up there in such clear weather before, even Great Gable was clear, which I have never been on in clear weather. I was really looking forward to enjoying the extensive views from the top but my curse was soon to strike. As I ascended Great Gable the clouds swept in, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up. What do I have to do to see anything from Great Gable?
I was able to see the impressive views of Wasdale across Wastwater from the Westmorland Cairn below the summit but that did not make the descent to Beck Head any warmer or less windy. Bypassing Kirk Fell by the northern traverse I took a path from the Black Sail Pass up over Looking Stead. My goal, even though I was very tired by this point, was the Shamrock Traverse to the Pillar Rock, which I have planned to do many times before but never done. And I’ve still not done it. Before I got to the Robinson Cairn I lost the path and eventually ascended the hillside to the top of the ridge near Hinds Cove. When I realised my mistake it was too late to do something about it; I should have stayed on the level or even descended the hillside a little. I need to try the walk again some time (though not unfortunately during this trip). Following the main path at the top of the ridge I climbed onto the top of Pillar and admired the view from the northern edge looking out over the Pillar Rock and into Ennerdale. I decided that it was now time to leave the top of the hills so I descended into the valley over White Pike (this is a steep stony descent, I don't want to ascend that way!). At the valley floor I was blocked by the wide River Liza with no bridge for miles, so instead of a long walk round I found a good spot and tried crossing the river. When my foot inevitably slipped into the water on the wet rocks I decided to dash across the river as fast as possible since I was already wet. My socks and trousers took hours to dry! Eventually I reached the Ennerdale Youth Hostel, which is a much more basic hostel than Buttermere and was much more to my liking.
During lunch at the top of Grisedale Pike the clouds descended which put a cold spin on my remaining time in the hills. I proceeded along the ridge around Hobcarton Crag and arrived at Hopegill Head where I attempted the rocky descent north towards Ladyside Pike. This proved to be rather tricky in the damp, misty conditions that I found myself in, but soon I was down the steep rocky slope and heading on the path to Ladyside Pike, which rewarded me with glimpses of the scenery to the north through the clouds. Most importantly, however, I had the hill all to myself as the crowds on Grisedale Pike were left far behind. While making my return towards Hopegill Head I found the conditions less slippery than before and had great fun tackling the rocky scramble head on while keeping to the highest point on the ridge, but soon unfortunately I found myself back at the top of Hopegill Head.