Cambrian Way rerun: Cwm Bychan to Porthmadog

Monday 2nd June 2025

My second attempt to do the Cambrian Way was more successful than my first last year because I managed to walk over the Rhinog Mountains which I had previously gone around on the route of the Ardudwy Way. The day before this walk I had climbed into the hills from Barmouth through low cloud and strong winds to the two hills that name the range, Rhinog Fach and Rhinog Fawr, before descending into Cwm Bychan where I camped. I knew that better weather was forecast so I had battled through the bad weather and as I descended I was rewarded with sunshine as the clouds cleared to reveal the complex, craggy terrain of the Rhinogydd. The campsite was dominated by campervans which did not provide me with a comfortable atmosphere to camp in and in the morning the air was filled with midges so I set off as soon as possible up the side of the hill, through bracken to a clearer path that took a gentler course below the steep crags of Clip while behind me were gorgeous views across Llyn Cwm Bychan. 

After crossing a wall I branched left to climb up to Bwlch Gwylim where I turned left again to reach the top of Clip and extensive views in all directions with the most notable being across the estuary to Porthmadog, while the high mountains to the north around Yr Wyddfa / Snowdon and Rhinog Fawr to the south sulked under dark clouds. My route north took me across a complex terrain of crags and small lakes that was a joy to walk over in this clear weather, negotiating a fascinating landscape that left me wishing I could have stayed longer. My instinct was to seek out every single top adorned with a cairn, a pile of stones, but there were too many so I fought the urge to explore and concentrated on sticking to the trail. I returned to Bwlch Gwylim and then crossed the top of Craig Ddrwg before descending to Llyn Corn Stwc and around a craggy hill to another lake, Llyn Du, where a clear path took me around another crag before heading up grassy slopes to the top of Moel Ysgyfarnogod which is decorated with a trig point. 

Beyond that was Foel Penolau, then the broad top of Diffwys before crossing the narrow top of Moel Gyrafolan and finally descending to join the bypassing route that I had taken last year. However, due to problems with my accommodation and to keep my pack as light as possible, I needed to come off the trail and head towards Porthmadog. With hindsight I wish I had stayed on the trail longer and completed the traverse even if that meant having to climb back up out of Cwm Moch. Instead I turned off before Diffwys and descended the broad slopes west of Cwm Moch until I reached the path that I had taken last year which took me to a bridleway that led me down the hill with stunning views towards Porthmadog. A walk through beautiful, lush scenery eventually brought me to a farmer’s access road where my descent continued through the woodland of Coed Caerwych. Even though I was off the trail, I was still enjoying the walk in warm sunshine through a part of Eryri / Snowdonia that is little visited and better for it. 

It was lovely countryside and I had a relaxing walk, however all too soon I was walking on roads or pavements that didn’t help with my sore feet following my trip through the bogs of Rhinog Fawr the previous day. Narrow country lanes meandered through low hills until I finally reached the main road beside the coast, and crossed the Afon Dwyryd, passed through the town of Penrhyndeudraeth and over the Cob, the seawall that led me into the town of Porthmadog. By this time my feet were really aching despite repeatedly tending to them and frequently changing my socks. It was surprisingly early in the afternoon and I felt a little frustrated at not maximising the good weather, but I was so tired I didn’t really care. I took advantage of the supermarket in Porthmadog before catching a bus to my pre-booked accommodation. 

Given how late I had arrived in Cwm Bychan the previous evening I couldn’t help thinking that this was the wrong place to stop and it should have been earlier, perhaps before Rhinog Fawr, since if I had stayed on the Cambrian Way I would have also reached the end of the stage very early. Nevertheless, I loved finally being able to traverse the Rhinog Mountains, which had been my biggest disappointment from last year’s failed attempt at the Cambrian Way. Almost as soon as I came home from that holiday I had started to make plans to return to the Rhinogydd, though this ultimately became a complete rerun, but it was my desire to traverse the Rhinog Mountains that was always my primary goal and having done that I was satisfied. The rest of the Cambrian Way could have been a washout for all I cared and I would still consider it a success. But the poor weather I encountered on the first day prompts me to consider making another visit to the Rhinog Mountains and why not?

Cambrian Way rerun: Barmouth to Cwm Bychan

Sunday 1st June 2025

The previous day to this walk I took a day out of the Cambrian Way, which is something I’d never done before on any other trail, but after my experiences last year, when I first attempted to do the Cambrian Way, I planned to take two whole days off the trail, of which this was the second, and I found it to be a great help for me, especially during a three week trail like the Cambrian Way. The following morning the weather did not look too bad, though a strong wind was blowing, which is not pleasant to walk in as there in nothing you can do about it except battle through. I don’t like to walk in very strong winds, but I judged these to be at the peak of what is bearable and I was hopeful for the better weather that was forecast for later in the day. Plus, I desperately wanted to do this section of the Cambrian Way after bad weather last year forced me to take a diversionary route along the Ardudwy Way instead. So, I set off from the Bunkorama bunkhouse that had been my home for the past two nights back onto the Cambrian Way and along a ridge towards the Rhinog Mountains. At first I was sheltered from the winds, but it wasn’t long before I emerged into their full force while walking along a rocky path with heather decorating the hillside. I would have really enjoyed this walk if it wasn’t for the wind that kept me walking slowly and pausing frequently, including at Bwlch y Llan, where I had passed through last year on the Ardudwy Way, but this year I was determined to keep going on the Cambrian Way, which took me along the ridge slowly climbing over the tops of several unnamed hills while enjoying the shelter of a wall. 

It was great to be walking over these hills while sheltered from the wind and admiring the views under overcast skies which stretched over the mouth of the Afon Mawddach and back up the river. Beyond Bwlch y Rhiwgyr, which I had also passed through last year, I was more exposed to the wind while the terrain was grassier and less interesting, and soon I plunged into low cloud which robbed me of any views for the next four hours. The gradient eased and I had a relatively easy walk, except for the winds, along the undulating ridge, beside a wall, heading into the hills of the Rhinogydd until I eventually reached the top of Diffwys. I had previously visited these hills in 2005 when the weather was not much better so I was glad to be back but disappointed not to have better weather. I encountered the strongest winds on the walk while crossing the saddle beyond as the ridge narrowed, becoming craggy, which required that I take my time, choosing each step with great care over the rocky terrain. The ridge of Crib-y-rhiw would have been a pleasure to traverse in good weather but I was not that fortunate and eventually the gradient steepened to reach the top of Y Llethr, the highest point in the Rhinog Mountains, even though it is just a grassy dome with a tiny cairn in the middle. On the northern edge beyond the summit a heavily eroded path zigzagged down the hillside and was difficult to follow with many loose stones underfoot.

This was very difficult terrain and at some point I took a wrong turning where the trail turns sharp right and I continued to descend so when I realised I had to find a way across the steep terrain until I reached the path that was now beside a wall. The lake Llyn Hywell was suddenly revealed to me as I carefully made my way along the craggy path across the saddle and up a gloriously rocky path towards Rhinog Fach. I previously climbed this mountain two days after my walk up Diffwys and Y Llethr, but in perfect weather, which is one reason why I had never been back until now. I enjoyed the climb up to the summit of Rhinog Fach, but the descent was horrible as an increasingly steep, narrow path led me down the other side through heather. When I climbed this mountain in 2005 there were no paths on this side, but now clear paths lay like scars across the mountain. I didn’t enjoy this prolonged, steep descent so I was glad when I eventually reached the pass of Bwlch Drws-Ardudwy, but the Rhinogydd was not done with me yet. While the weather slowly improved with the view opening out eastwards across Coed y Brenin Forest I began to climb Rhinog Fawr initially traversing the eastern slopes which were saturated after the recent rain and at one point I sunk into the mud and water all the way up to my knee, so my tricky ascent continued with a wet foot.

Since I was now sheltered from the wind which was also easing, I embraced the climb and slowly made my way all the way up to the summit of Rhinog Fawr, which was still briefly clinging to the clouds, before setting off back down the other side towards Llyn Du. The Cambrian Way takes a wide route west before turning east towards the lake, but there are paths that take a direct route and I was keen to get down as quickly as possible since it was getting late. As the cloud continued to lift and the sun came out, revealing a fabulously rocky landscape ahead of me, I carefully made my way down until I reached Llyn Du where I rejoined the Cambrian Way but it was still difficult to keep to the route as I continued to descend, now in glorious sunshine, to reach the path known as the Roman Steps. There I turned left to follow this over the pass of Bwlch Tyddiad and down to eventually reach Cwm Bychan where there is a simple campsite. This was an amazing, though very tough, day that finally saw me do the traverse of the Rhinog Mountains that I had wanted to do for a long time. I wish I didn’t have low cloud and strong winds, but I was so determined to tackle it I refused to let this stop me. I particularly enjoyed the climb up to Rhinog Fach, but I didn't enjoy the steep descent down the other side or the boggy traverse of the eastern slopes of Rhinog Fawr. This was a long day that left me exhausted by the time I reached Cwm Bychan, but I was glad to have accomplished it.