The Scafell Pikes

Thursday 20th April 2006

When I got up for this walk it was raining and the forecast was for it to get worse. Wrapping myself up in all my waterproofs I set off with the grim determination to do as much as I could despite the bad weather, but as it turned out the rain soon stopped and with the clouds staying high all day, though not breaking, I had clear, if misty, views. Everyday during this holiday I had clear views from the tops and hardly any rain while walking. I couldn't believe my luck.

When I reached Seathwaite I followed the path beside Grains Gill all the way to Esk Hause. I had originally planned on trying the direct route up to Great End from Sty Head but I decided to give this a miss due to the weather. Passing Esk Hause I went up to Great End and defied convention by actually going to the top of this oft-ignored fell as I also did for Ill Crag and Broad Crag, bagging these three-thousand foot tops that most people would walk on by. Eventually I arrived at Scafell Pike where I had my lunch, though not at the summit, but on the south top where I sat and ate alone away from the crowds. Actually, because of the poor weather the summit wasn't as busy as it usually is, though it was still busy enough.

After lunch I paid a visit to the top of England before heading off to Mickledore with the jaw-dropping Scafell Crag in front of me. Not being able to see any other way of getting across I slithered down the abominable scree in Mickledore before climbing all the way back up the scree to the start of Lord's Rake. I had never done this route before and the warnings of the poor state that it's in have previously put me off, but not this time I was determined to try it, or die in the attempt. Luckily I didn't die, but it was terrifying nevertheless, and the snow in the rake actually probably made things easier. For large sections I was able to walk up the rake on the steps of my predecessors in the snow. Once the terror was over I was rewarded with stunning views of Wastwater and another climb up to the summit of Scafell even though I was still shaking from the adrenaline rush of the rake and could barely move, let alone climb to the top! This had been a really thrilling experience, but eventually I managed to get my breath back and reached the top of Scafell.

After my customary no-pause-whatsoever at the top of Scafell I began my descent into Eskdale. In an attempt to try something different I walked down Long Green and then dropped steeply down the grassy slope to Cam Spout. I had never been to the upper Eskdale area before and the sight of it was really something quite astonishing. Great Moss is a huge open marsh with mountains all around in every direction and is the sort of place that just takes your breath away. Following the path I skirted the moss then headed over the headland around High Scarth Crag and finally down into Eskdale. A brisk walk along the valley bottom brought me to the hostel. This was another great walk, even though I had been feeling rather tired all day. After a week of strenuous walking, the winter layover was beginning to catch up on me. Fortunately I was nearing the end of the holiday.