West Highland Way, part 6

Monday 19th July 2004

I had finished the West Highland Way at last, and all I wanted to do now was be able to do some real walking up a mountain. I started my last day on the trail by having breakfast at a nearby inn, which was a very nice place and the breakfast was very tasty. The start of the West Highland Way was a very steep climb through midge-infested woods, which I did not enjoy. Midges have been the worst thing about the trail as even though I did have insect repellent with me, I was most often attacked while I asleep. I had bites in many places but they weren’t gained while walking. The worst places were while walking at the foot of Ben Lomond (between Rowardennan and Inversnaid) and at Kinlochleven, but in the evening anywhere could be bad if you left a window open. It made me wonder how the locals coped, or maybe they're just tough Scots!

The walk joined the old military road through Lairigmór around the side of the valley past the ruins of the Lairigmór house. This part of the Way was a little dull and hard-going under foot with many large stones to walk on until eventually I entered a wood, but not before the weather threw up one of it’s best ones as the early rain cleared and the sun came out leaving me so hot I had to take my waterproofs off, only for it to cloud over within minutes and start raining again. Typical Scotland! The walk through the wood was varied and sometimes interesting but it was just too long so it was with some relief when I eventually emerged on the other side to face the Ben. I was planning on walking up Ben Nevis the next day, but I was not really looking forward to it as I was worried about how difficult it would be. I didn't really want to do it but I guess it is just one of those things you have to do. The weather may not be brilliant for it, but I hoped I would be able to cope.

First though, I had a walk to complete. Wearily I made my way along the road into Fort William and the end of the West Highland Way, but there was no fanfare or welcoming reception for me when I reached the end, beside a busy roundabout. This was my first proper long-distance walk and I was not impressed. I think I’m a much better designer of walks so maybe in future I’ll just do my own. In Fort William I looked around the tacky Highland Centre and bought a card for the parents, plus a miniature bottle of Ben Nevis Scotch. I wonder how many more miniatures I can collect? In the centre of Fort William I bought some food for dinner and lunch for the next day when I was planning on going up Ben Nevis, whatever the weather.