Fairfield and Helvellyn

Saturday 1st March 2008

Last Saturday I was back in the Lake District thanks to the kindness of Virgin Trains who gave me a free ticket because of the cancellations over the New Year, but on my way back to the Lakes my train was cancelled again. High winds had blown over a freight container between Oxenholme and Penrith, blocking the line. Luckily I could get as far as Oxenholme and from there to Windermere and Ambleside so my weekend wasn't ruined, yet, so I was able to enjoy a wonderful walk over some of the highest fells in the Lake District, even though I experienced some rather harsh weather. When I started, in Ambleside, it was raining and windy, but as I walked over Low Sweden Bridge the weather cleared and revealed glimpses of blue skies. I had come wrapped up against cold temperatures, but it appeared my many layers would not be needed and soon I took off a fleece (but I put on my waterproof trousers, so I would be prepared for anything). As I began to climb up the ridge I pondered that I had been up this ridge just once before back in 2003 when I had walked from the Helvellyn Youth Hostel over St Sunday Crag to Fairfield and along this ridge all the way down into Ambleside. The weather back then was better than it was last Saturday (it was July!), but I seem to recall low clouds had obscured the views even then. At least that was not a problem last weekend and early in the walk the weather was not too bad. Rather than take the path along the top of the ridge to Low Pike I elected to take the easier gradients of the lower eastern path (the actual right of way), which was actually on a well-made path and was a much the better way to go than the direct assault along the top of the ridge. When going down you don’t mind being a little adventurous but when climbing steeply uphill your mind is only on how to get up the slope as easily and as quickly as possible. Soon my well-designed path joined the top of the ridge and passed over Low Pike and High Pike where I was exposed to the full might of the wind that was coming in from the west. Fortunately, for most of the climb the dry stone wall along the ridge acted as a handy shelter, but once at the summit of Dove Crag I was subjected to the full might of the gale-force winds. By descending the eastern slopes behind the summit I found some shelter and had my lunch. Despite the wind this was a fantastic climb and reminded me of all the wonderful things that I love about walking in the Lake District. Aside from the amazing views I love walking over rough, rugged ground where you have to think about your every step as you climb, which I was getting a lot of during this ascent. It makes me yearn for more, so it’s just a pity about the weather.

While making my way across to Hart Crag I was hit by hail, and then while crossing over to Fairfield I had more hail. The hail in the high wind was quite painful if I turned my face into it, so I didn’t stay long at the summit of Fairfield but quickly headed down the screes to Grisedale Tarn. On my very first visit to the Lake District in 2002, after going up Helvellyn, I made my way past Grisedale Tarn and up these scree onto Fairfield, and I remember finding them tough and vowed never to go up them again, and I never have. On all subsequent visits to Fairfield I have avoided them, but now I descended them and they didn't seem as bad going down – and fortunately all traces of my knee problem from the beginning of the year has vanished. From the lake I climbed the interminable zigzags opposite the screes and I thought I would never make it up to the top. It almost killed me, I mustn't be fit! Maybe I’ve put on so much weight over the winter that I can’t get up a steep slope like the Dollywagon zigzags without stopping every couple of steps for a breath. I need to do a few more walks, I’m obviously getting too fat!

When I finally got up to Dollywagon Pike there were excellent views just as I remembered from when I was last there two years ago, and again I took many photographs from the excellent vantage point of the summit. From there I walked over High Crag and Nethermost Crag on my way to the granddaddy of them all, Helvellyn. It was still windy but endurable, and it was still not too bad until I got up to the top of Helvellyn. At the summit of the third highest mountain in England the clouds closed in, obscuring any views, and as I left it started raining. It wasn't too bad while I was at the summit but now with the the rain hammering hard into my face it had turned very nasty. Gingerly I made my way down the narrow northern ridge of Lower Man and with the rain still driving into my face I passed over Whiteside Bank. I had planned on ending the walk by going over Raise and beside the old mine flue but the wind, rain and clouds prompted me to cut short the walk slightly by descending into Keppel Cove on the old pony track. Dropping down into Glenridding it was still raining while I walked along the bottom of the valley to the youth hostel, but despite a wet end to the day it was still fantastic to be back in the Lakes on those rough, rocky paths; there is nothing better. Despite the fact that I hadn't gone anywhere I haven’t been before, and despite the weather, I still really enjoyed myself. Unfortunately I had to go home on Sunday, and I needed to get up early to do it, and the trains were still not running. It was an interesting day.