Saturday 18th April 2009
South Tynedale to Haltwhistle
This was my last day of walking along the Pennine Way from Gargrave, on the southern edge of the Yorkshire Dales, to Haltwhistle, on the northern edge of the North Pennines. I hadn’t walked the entire 270 miles of the Pennine Way, merely the middle 130 miles, which I considered to be the best section of the long distance path. After a week spent on the Pennine Way, however, it didn’t take me long to abandon it and take a more direct course along the South Tynedale Way to Haltwhistle. Starting from Alston I rejoined the Pennine Way near the river and walked across fields for a few miles passing the meagre remains of a Roman fort at Whitley Castle before dropping back down to the River South Tyne. This was a rather boring and tedious section of the walk as I have no interest in walking through farmland, partly as I feel as if I’m intruding when crossing them. After passing below a viaduct which had a pretty stream passing under it I followed the stream down to the South Tyne. This part of the Way was actually quite good as the walking was interesting underfoot and the views along the river were picturesque. Unfortunately this didn't last long as the Pennine Way soon left the South Tyne for the last time and joined the road into the village of Slaggyford. Here I decided to part company with the Pennine Way for good and walk along the track bed of the South Tynedale Railway. This was a relaxing and interesting walk through woodland and along the top of high viaducts. I was, though, disappointed that woodland flowers were not quite yet in bloom as they would have significantly added to the beauty of the surroundings I was walking in. Another week or two would have made a considerable difference to the walk. The highlight was the spectacular Lambley viaduct which was long, high and narrow. The views from the top up and down the valley and around the surrounding area were extensive and stunning in the bright sunshine that I had been graced.
The path along the railway bed unfortunately was not good underfoot being a level, gravel surface that is good to walk along if wearing normal shoes, but not if wearing walking boots. By the end of the long walk into Haltwhistle my feet were in agony, but I at least eventually managed to reach the place that I had been aiming for all week. It had been a good week even though I don’t usually do long distance paths, but the Pennine Way is something special. It was the first long distance path in Britain, and is probably still the best. I have had a desire to walk part of the Pennine Way for a long time, but the Pennines themselves are not the sort of hills that I prefer to walk. For me the more rugged and rock-covered are the mountain the better; however these heather-clad moorland hills seem to me rather bleak and barren. I enjoyed the wild emptiness of the terrain, but the highlight of the week has to be the many waterfalls I saw; I can't pick my favourite as there have been too many.
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