Grinton to Richmond

Saturday 10th April 2010

For the last day of my holiday I had a short walk from Grinton Lodge Youth Hostel to the castle town of Richmond. This was mostly a dull walk under stunning weather with just a few of highlights. The first was Steps Wood on a path between Marrick Abbey and the village of Marrick. This ancient path passes through a wonderful wood that was resplendent in a dense covering of woodland plants that were sadly not yet in bloom. This clearly defined path was still a pleasure to walk up as Steps Wood is one of those beautiful, ancient woods that are tragically fast disappearing from our countryside. Another highlight of the walk was Applegarth Scar, below which is an extensive view across Swaledale. The path continues below Whitcliffe Scar before entering Whitcliffe Wood, another delightful walk through a wood that was also bedecked with woodland plants, which is a sure sign of health in a wood (as well as the welcoming sound of birds).After a dreary farmland crossing between Marrick and Applegarth this was a wonderfully relaxing way to end the walk under a warm sun. Emerging from the wood I walked along a road all the way into Richmond which has some interesting historical buildings but was just too crowded for my tastes. After a wander around the castle walls I caught a bus to Darlington and thence a train home. This was a good week's walk with a wide variety of walking. The change in scenery as I have crossed the country was dramatic. My heart belongs in the Lake District, so that was easily my favourite part of the holiday and the rest of the walk couldn't hope to compare. But that is one of the attractions of the coast to coast, that it passes through such a wide variety of landscapes, some of which will naturally appeal to you more than others. Besides the mountains of the Lake District, the mines of Gunnerside on the day before this walk were really fascinating and I wished I'd been able to spend more time exploring them.

Beyond Richmond the coast to coast follows the River Swale to Bolton-on-Swale before crossing the vast Vale of Mowbray, which from all reports is a flat, featureless expanse of farmland. The terrain doesn't improve until one reaches the village of Ingleby Arncliffe on the edge of the North York Moors. Rejoining the coast to coast at that point would be desirable and something I hope to do at some point.

Kirkby Stephen to Grinton Lodge

Friday 9th April 2010

I had calculated this walk as being twenty-two miles so I set off early for a good, long walk but in the end I think it must have been more like twenty-six miles over some very hilly terrain, so it took me over ten hours to complete and by the end I was really exhausted and my feet were aching. The walk started with an ascent of Nine Standards Rigg by climbing up a road onto the open hillside. Nine Standards Rigg is a significant hill on the Coast to Coast as it lies on the watershed of England, all the rivers and streams from now on flow towards the east coast rather than the west coast behind me. I visited this hill in 2004, but unfortunately I was not able to on this occasion. There are different routes over the hill in different months of the year because of erosion-prevention and the December-April route doesn't go to the summit but skirts the western slopes heading south to a road. I was quite disappointed at not visiting the summit but the road walking gave me an opportunity to put some speed on and eat up some of those miles that I had to cover during this walk.

Leaving the road I crossed a wet moorland hillside, and was soon joined by the later season paths before dropping into a secluded valley farm, Ravenseat. Leaving the farm I walked above the narrow, picturesque valley of Whitsun Dale and rounded the corner into the young Swaledale. Crossing a valley mouth I dropped down to the picturesque spot where the Pennine Way crosses the coast to coast, near the village of Keld. Here I had lunch and enjoyed the sunshine with a lovely waterfall beside me. I passed this spot last year while walking along the Pennine Way and it was nice to be able to enjoy this tranquil spot again. Setting off, the route now changed tempo completely as I climbed up the side of Swaledale to the old Swinner Gill Lead Mines where I left the picturesque Swaledale and climbed out of the valley by a rough and steep path onto the top of the hill. On the heather-covered moorland I walked past areas where the heather was being burned and descended into another area of mine workings, the Lownathwaite Lead Mines in the deserted valley of Gunnerside. Passing the eerie, old mine buildings I climbed once again up the side of the valley onto the moorland top where I found a bleak, desolate wasteland caused by the mine workings. I also found a good track that I was able to follow for several miles across the top, down into the valley opposite and along the bottom of the valley to a road.

Sadly the good track does not lead all the way to the youth hostel as I really wished it did. Instead, rough, boggy walking resumed as I crossed heather-covered moorland above a wall and a network of fields eventually reaching a track that would take me to a farm house. Now with weary steps I crossed countless fields as I dropped into the village of Reeth. With the little strength that I had left I crossed the River Swale and climbed up the steep road to Grinton Lodge Youth Hostel. My epic walk had been completed in awesome weather and across some stunning terrain. Unlike my previous day's walk this one had great variety and significantly prolonged walking through open country. The coast to coast doesn't have another day like this until it reaches the North York Moors, fortunately the next day was my last.

Shap to Kirkby Stephen

Thursday 8th April 2010

In returning to the coast to coast walk after my day-off in the Howgill Fells, I caught a bus to Shap and bought supplies for lunch before setting off on my next leg. After my unorthodox crossing of the Lake District over Easter I now religiously kept to the official route all the way from Shap on the edge of the Lake District to Kirkby Stephen near the top of the Eden Valley. Immediately upon leaving Shap I crossed the railway line and the noisy M6 motorway before passing the Hardendale Quarry and entering Crosby Ravensworth Fell. For the first couple of miles on this walk I couldn't help repeatedly looking back at the Lake District that was basking in the sunshine on the horizon behind me. My heart yearned to be back there. After a dull start to the day I was now enjoying the only highlight, Crosby Ravensworth Fell, the sun was shining and I was walking in a vast, picturesque landscape covered in heather, and littered with limestone rocks. I'm sure this section of the walk will look fabulous in late summer when the heather is in bloom, but even in early spring under a warm sun, the fell was a pleasure to cross. I was following clear tracks that led me past Wicker Street, a Roman road where an impressive limestone pavement capped off a thrilling walk across the fell.

Continuing along the path I followed a fence edge all the way to a road on the far side of the fell, where my fun ended with a clouding of the sky and a succession of dreary, muddy fields. Just to the north of me was Great Asby Scar, a vast area of Limestone, but sadly one that the coast to coast does not pass through. I had to continue through the fields below and the landscape didn't even improve when I neared Sunbiggin Tarn as the terrain was now a vast, bleak and boggy wasteland. The unchanging tedium of the landscape was only relieved by the sight of the northern edge of the Howgill Fells and later, of Smardale Viaduct in a quiet, picturesque valley. I found the sight of this disused railway rather depressing, as this section looks like it's been untouched since the tracks were lifted. I could easily imagine trains steaming through the valley, but sadly no more. However, I couldn't decide whether it was a tragedy or a blessing that trains no longer pass through this beautiful, peaceful valley. Climbing out of the valley brought me onto Smardale Fell, but by now I was very weary and could only stagger over the hill through more farmland all the way into the small market town of Kirkby Stephen. I guess the main problem I had with this walk was all the farmland that I had to walk through, which I don't like, as it feels like I'm intruding, and there was nothing to attract my eye to compensate for the dreary terrain. After having just crossed the Lake District, unfortunately the limestone country between Shap and Kirkby Stephen couldn't compete. I longed to be back in the Lake District!

The Howgill Fells

Wednesday 7th April 2010

After my walk the day before, I was really tired and aching so I decided to take things easy for this walk and catch a bus to Sedburgh in order to walk up the Howgill Fells. I previously visited these fells in 2004 when I had a fabulous walk over these wonderful fells that are a cross between the Yorkshire Dales (which they are in) and the Lake District (which is within sight). They're a gloriously complex arrangement of deep, water-cut valleys and grassy ridges that are an absolute delight to walk along with many hours easily wasted exploring their many tops and ridges. When I visited these fells in 2004 I had deliberately walked up every one of the fells that are more than two thousand feet high, and visited the spectacular Cautley Spout, a waterfall on the eastern edge of the fells. I remember the weather was good for that walk and the views of the Lake District were stunning, particularly from the western most top, Fell Head. On this walk I didn't go that far as I was really taking a day off and I wanted a gentle walk without too much exertion, but I still reached the highest point in the Howgill Fells.

My original plan had been to approach the Howgill Fells from the village of Grayrigg, but changed my plans in favour of this much easier, simple out and back route. From the centre of Sedburgh I climbed up Howgill Lane to Lockbank Farm and onto the open fell. Since I was still really tired my progress up was dreadfully, painfully slow as I trudged along the path bypassing all the tops along the way and staying on the main path all the way up to the top of Calders where I had lunch. After the poor weather of the last couple of days I was now blessed with some lovely sunshine that made the walk that much more pleasant and relaxing, but it was still a bit cold at the top. After eating I buttoned up against the cold wind and headed off to the Calf, the highest point in the Howgill Fells. The Calf is more than just the highest point, it is the focal point of the Howgill Fells, and all the other tops and ridges radiate from that central point so that the views from the summit are quite sensational.

After taking a number of pictures from the top of the Calf I reluctantly didn't visit Cautley Spout waterfall but turned around and headed back down to Sedburgh. This walk may have been unimaginative, but I was so tired I needed an easy, relaxing walk in order to get my strength back. On my way back down along the path I stopped off at all the tops that I'd missed on my way up, stopping off at Brim Rigg Top, Calders, the Rowantree Grains, Arant Haw and Winder, all along the way. The descent was thoroughly enjoyable and relaxing, especially once I was below the cold wind that was blowing around the tops; the weather was so warm and sunny that my gentle, relaxing descent was as pleasurable as it gets. Near the bottom I sat down on the grass and simply enjoyed the sunshine, amazed at the difference a bit of sun makes. This was a great walk and was just what I needed to get my strength back.

Windermere to Shap

Tuesday 6th April 2010

Despite a forecast of more rain and strong winds for this walk I set off up the Trout Beck valley under dry skies and without much wind. After a gentle walk up the valley I eventually reached the Tongue of Trout Beck where I had a quite enjoyable climb up this little Wainwright to the outcrop strewn top with a murky view of Windermere down the long valley. After visiting the summit I walked along the length of the Tongue to its connection with Thornthwaite Crag where I joined the Roman road, High Street, and started to climb the hillside. Initially the path was very steep which made me wonder whether this bit was really on the actual Roman road or whether the path has moved over the years. I wouldn't have thought the Romans would build a road that steep as they were far too clever. Once I was onto Scot Rake the climb was good with increasingly good views down the valley and up towards Caudale Moor, though the top of the ridge seemed to take a long time to arrive.

When I finally reached the top of the ridge I followed a divergent path that follows the Roman road towards the top of High Street though I intended on heading towards Mardale Ill Bell. After crossing the bleak, cloud-covered hilltop I reached a wall corner where a casual glance of the map now reveals that at this point I needed to turn right in order to get onto the path to Mardale Ill Bell. When I was at the top of the fell, rather than notice this, I thought I'd missed the turn so I made the snap decision to change my plans and follow the broken wall to the top of High Street. I had planned on heading towards Shap via Branstree and Swindale so this was to be a major alteration in my plans. Venturing onto the snowy top of High Street I reached the summit where I stopped to have my lunch.

From the summit I headed to the top of the Long Stile ridge, which I was able to find exactly, thanks to my GPS, on the eastern edge of the plateau. From there I had a thoroughly enjoyable walk down the wonderful ridge, even though it was so windy I was knocked over a few times by the wind. I'd never been down this ridge before (I'd climbed up it twice, the last time in glorious weather in 2007), but in any direction, and in any weather this is a fabulous ridge to walk along. Eventually I reached the shore of Haweswater where I joined the official coast to coast route, though I hadn't intended on joining the route this early as I'd intended on walking over the hills south of the reservoir. After my sudden change of plans I was curiously excited at joining the coast to coast and indeed once I resumed walking from Shap I stayed on the coast to coast for the rest of the week. Just as I started to head off beside the reservoir the weather finally followed the forecast as it started to rain, and continued to do so all the way into Shap. The walk beside the lake was on a great path with a few ups and downs, some variations of surface, and some fantastic moments, particularly at the mouth of the Measand Beck where the surroundings are almost Scottish in their scale.

Eventually the path ended at the immaculate village of Burnbanks, which was where the tedium began. After a mildly pleasant walk beside the Haweswater Beck the last few miles into Shap was dreadfully dull as I crossed endless muddy fields. By the time I reached Shap I was aching all over and totally fed up with the rain and the fields. I bought fish & chips in the local chippy and then caught a bus to Kendal where I stayed at the youth hostel. I was feeling really tired, I was aching all over, and more than anything I was really depressed because I had now left the Lake District behind.

Borrowdale to Windermere

I've been really busy lately, but that's no excuse not to post anything on my blog, so I'll continue recounting my week's holiday spent crossing the Lake District and the Yorkshire Dales.

Monday 5th April 2010

I woke for this walk to find heavy rain and strong winds outside; it was one of those days when you don't really want to go out of the door, let alone go for a walk! Resolutely I wrapped myself up against the rain and set off to the village of Stonethwaite where I took a track over the Stonethwaite Beck and onto the official coast to coast route, or at least that was the plan. The path beyond the bridge had become a deep, fast moving river, so I followed other coast to coast walkers across an adjacent field, through the impromptu river, and over a dry stone wall onto the official footpath. I had never seen this much flooding in the Lake District before, but back in November there had been extensive flooding that had washed away many bridges. In comparison this was nothing but it still had a major impact on my walk. The path continued to be under water in many places and crossing a stream had now become really tricky. Gentle brooks had become raging torrents and after getting my feet wet on one stream my group of coast to coast walkers reached a stream that was virtually impassable.

After almost being swept away by the previous streams I decided that this one was actually impassable and turned back. I don't know what the other coast to coast walkers did, but when I left some were walking upstream to find an easier crossing. From what I could see there didn't seem to be one, and I didn't think it was worth the risk. I hope the other walkers all made it to their destination safely. I returned down the path towards Stonethwaite, re-crossing the streams that had previously got my feet wet. With freshly soaked feet I turned off the path and climbed the hillside to my right onto the path that I had climbed last Christmas making this excellent ascent again onto the heather-clad fell of Great Crag and around the stunning lake of Dock Tarn. This is a fabulous climb, even though it's steep, as it climbs through woodland on a well-made path all the way up to the top of the fell. It was weird seeing this fell without snow as both times I've previously been to Dock Tarn it has been snowing, but the weather now was just as bad, even though the rain was easing.

I didn't visit the actual summit of Great Crag, but passed close, staying on the path, dropping down the steep hillside to the Bowdergate Wetlands and into the village of Watendlath where I had my lunch. My original thought when I'd turned back was that I'd head towards the town of Keswick where I'd catch a bus or find accommodation. On reaching Watendlath I realised that the flooding had been localised so I could climb over the fells north of Ullscarth (rather than south, as planned). The rain had now stopped so there shouldn't be any problems, but it had become very windy and the ground north of Ullscarth is always very wet, and after rain it is very, very, very wet. Nevertheless I climbed up the steep path out of Watendlath and onto the bridlepath that crosses the boggy Watendlath Fell past Blea Tarn and up to the 'ridge' top fence. This was a bleak, barren crossing with no redeeming characteristics. It was windy, cloudy, and ridiculously wet and boggy.

All the way along the horrible path I kept telling myself that the other side of the hill would be better, that it will improve once I got to the fence. I've said that to myself many times before and it hasn't been true, but this time it was! The other side was completely different. Rather than a bleak, featureless grassland there was plenty of bracken and it was littered with rocks. It wasn't boggy as the ground is quite steep, and a good, clear path led me down through Thirlmere Woods. I now had good views of the crags that overlook Thirlmere as I descended through the wood and followed the path down to the little-known, yet stunning lake of Harrop Tarn. I had never been there before but I found a beautiful place in a picturesque setting with a lake backed by the Tarn Crags of Ullscarth. This descent was the highlight of an otherwise utterly forgetful day. The Lake District never fails to amaze me with little gems like this that are quietly hidden away from the well-trodden routes and yet are of outstanding quality. The descent ended on top of the small hill of Birk Crag where stunning views of Thirlmere acted as the curtain call before a steep drop through gorse bushes brought me down to a road.

I'd originally planned to walk over Steel Fell on this walk so once I reached the shore of Thirlmere I thought of climbing up Steel Fell from there, but decided against it as it seemed like a waste of effort. Instead I caught a bus to Ambleside and walked over Wansfell, which was a really tiring climb and a total waste of effort. I should have just taken the bus to Troutbeck Bridge and walked up the hill to the youth hostel from there. With hindsight I wish I had. A long, tiring walk from Wansfell eventually brought me to the youth hostel leaving me totally exhausted. Unfortunately I didn't find the hostel to my liking; it isn't a walkers' hostel, but caters mostly for families and tourists being the nearest to the railway station. This was definitely a walk to forget.