After my previous walk I drove up a narrow twisting road to the north coast of Scotland leaving the delights of Assynt behind. The area around Lochinver is an absolute wonder and I was really disappointed to be leaving. I had originally planned on spending four nights in the area, which would have given me a chance to walk up Quinag and Foinaven, but in bad weather I left these behind in favour of the north-western-most village in mainland Britain: Durness. The next day I behaved as a tourist sampling the delights of Durness including Cape Wrath (the north-western point), enjoying the sunshine beside the coast while the mountains inland were covered in rain and low cloud. The area around Durness is a treasure trove with a wide variety of wonders that includes vast caves, flower-covered moors and fabulous beaches. I had a great day in Durness, but the day after I was back in my walking boots for a walk up the most northerly Munro in Scotland: Ben Hope.
I parked alongside other cars at the foot of the main path up Ben Hope and followed others up the path beside a stream. When I had started it looked like the good weather was back so I was slapping on sun cream and stripping down, but unfortunately it didn’t last. When the walkers ahead of me left the stream behind I stayed beside it and climbed a shelf below the high western cliffs of Ben Hope. Unfortunately I carried on climbing when I should have stayed beside the stream so by the time the stream reached Dubh-loch na Beinne I was high above the lake on a steep hillside. My difficulty in continuing to walk along that steep gradient eventually prompted me to try and climb onto the top of the ridge. After a lot of very steep climbing I eventually reached the top of the ridge where I collapsed onto the ground and had my lunch, while rain started to fall. The point where I’d joined the ridge was at about the 700 metre contour so I was already a good way up the ridge having missed out on the delights lower down. 
Resuming the walk I climbed up the ridge through clouds to the foot of a bad step where I suddenly had stunning views below the clouds of a small loch in a corrie and Loch na Seilg beyond. The bad step is a serious scramble and far beyond my capabilities so I simply side-stepped it by climbing up a nearby gully, which was rather difficult itself in the wet weather, though not unenjoyable. Ultimately I reached the top of the crag face where a short walk brought me to the summit. Ben Hope should have stunning views as there are no other Munros for miles around, but the top was covered in clouds, which spoiled my view. On my descent, once I was below the clouds I was still sufficiently high enough to have some quite good views up the deserted Strath More. My descent was a straightforward walk along the regular, tourist route down a steep, wide, stony hillside and a muddy path back down to the road.
I parked alongside other cars at the foot of the main path up Ben Hope and followed others up the path beside a stream. When I had started it looked like the good weather was back so I was slapping on sun cream and stripping down, but unfortunately it didn’t last. When the walkers ahead of me left the stream behind I stayed beside it and climbed a shelf below the high western cliffs of Ben Hope. Unfortunately I carried on climbing when I should have stayed beside the stream so by the time the stream reached Dubh-loch na Beinne I was high above the lake on a steep hillside. My difficulty in continuing to walk along that steep gradient eventually prompted me to try and climb onto the top of the ridge. After a lot of very steep climbing I eventually reached the top of the ridge where I collapsed onto the ground and had my lunch, while rain started to fall. The point where I’d joined the ridge was at about the 700 metre contour so I was already a good way up the ridge having missed out on the delights lower down. Resuming the walk I climbed up the ridge through clouds to the foot of a bad step where I suddenly had stunning views below the clouds of a small loch in a corrie and Loch na Seilg beyond. The bad step is a serious scramble and far beyond my capabilities so I simply side-stepped it by climbing up a nearby gully, which was rather difficult itself in the wet weather, though not unenjoyable. Ultimately I reached the top of the crag face where a short walk brought me to the summit. Ben Hope should have stunning views as there are no other Munros for miles around, but the top was covered in clouds, which spoiled my view. On my descent, once I was below the clouds I was still sufficiently high enough to have some quite good views up the deserted Strath More. My descent was a straightforward walk along the regular, tourist route down a steep, wide, stony hillside and a muddy path back down to the road. I wasn't until I was on the ridge that I enjoyed this walk, but before then I was cursing Ralph Storer, and especially myself. This walk would have been a lot more enjoyable if I’d followed Ralph Storer’s instructions to “continue northwards beside the main stream onto the shelf holding Dubh-loch na Beinne, and keep going until a way can be made up onto the north ridge near Loch Seilg at its far end.” How easier could it have been explained? So why did I try to get as high as possible as early as possible? It is amazing how often I don’t follow the plain instructions I’ve been given, probably because at the time I think there is a better way. There are many times I’ve got myself into trouble and cursed Ralph Storer (or whoever) and most of the time it’s not been their fault. You’d think I’d learn. The north ridge of Ben Hope is fabulous even if the best bit is the area around the bad step. As the most northerly Munro it’s a good, easy climb, so long as you take the right route.
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