I returned to the Lake District last Easter and for the first time in five years I had a whole week in front of me to enjoy in this most delightful of places. On this holiday I got to revisit places that I had not been to in a long time and even got to places in the Lake District that I’d never been to before. My first stop was Blencathra, one of the greatest fells in the Lake District, and this walk that I did must be one of the greatest in the whole of the Lake District. I got off the bus at Scales and climbed around the steep side of Scales Fell to the top of Mousthwaite Comb and up to Scales Tarn where my target for the day was basking in awesome splendour: Sharp Edge.
I have only once been up Sharp Edge before and that was in December 2006, in damp, cold weather. Ever since then I have wanted to go across this knife-edged ridge in good weather and now finally I had my chance. The weather still wasn't brilliant, it was overcast with a cold breeze, but it was dry and Sharp Edge was clear of clouds. After having my lunch near Scales Tarn I set off up to the start of the fabulous rocky traverse. This is an excellent climb, especially if the side paths are spurned in favour of sticking to the very top of the jagged edge. When things started to get serious I took a challenging line in my scramble up the rock face, and enjoyed every terrifying moment.
Eventually I reached the summit of Atkinson Pike where I traversed the saddle to the summit of Blencathra. During my ascent I was fascinated by a path that I had seen: at Scales Tarn a clear path moves up the hillside opposite Sharp Edge straight towards the summit. This path is not marked on OS maps but I later discovered that it is marked on Harvey maps and in the second edition of Wainwright’s Pictorial Guides. I didn't linger at the crowded summit but immediately took the excellent path that heads down Hall’s Fell Ridge. This is a fabulous way to come down a mountain; descending on rocks almost all the way as I tried to stick to the most interesting lines so I could enjoy every moment of the prolonged descent. The rocks were really dry which ensured a good grip and enabled me to confidently walk down the steep ridge. When I finally reached the bottom I crossed farmland to reach the village of Threlkeld.
From Threlkeld I joined the enjoyable Keswick Railway Path, which is a wonderful path that follows the course of an old railway that used to run through Keswick. I have used the path many times in the past but like many other places in the Lake District I haven't been on it in recent years. Despite the rain that fell while I was on this path I had an enjoyable stroll into Keswick and relished the eight bridges that span the River Greta between Threlkeld and Keswick. This was a fabulous end to a great, if short walk up a great mountain. I was so thankful I'd been able to go up Blencathra in dry weather as the rocks on the two ridges would have been treacherous in the wet. Fortunately my luck held as in the dry Sharp Edge is a fabulous way up a mountain, and Hall’s Fell Ridge is a fantastic way to go down a mountain.
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