Malham Cove and Gordale Scar

Thursday 24th April 2014

The start of this day was grey and overcast so I didn’t have much hope for the day, but the clouds soon cleared to reveal gorgeous sunshine all day. It was the sort of weather that makes you happy to be outside walking and it wouldn’t matter where I was as walking is always a pleasure when the sun is shining, and I was walking in a fantastic area with stunning scenery, from the awesome Malham Cove to the tranquil Malham Tarn and back to the spectacular Gordale Scar. I started in Malham Cove, which I’d passed over the previous evening on my way into Malham, but on that occasion the weather had been dull and miserable but now the sun was already shining  and transforming the dry ice-age waterfall into a pleasure to behold. I walked right up to the foot of the cove and gazed in wonder at the awesome cliffs that towered above me to astonishing heights while to my right a path seemed to lead up the side of the cove (opposite the official path to the top), and I thought I’d investigate, undeterred by a sign that said the path didn’t lead all the way up to the top.

The path did bring me up to a ledge a couple of metres above the floor of the cove (presumably much used by climbers) that goes all around the side of the cove and it was too tempting for me to avoid. It was exciting to traverse this ledge but I’ve slipped on wet rocks so many times in the past (and I’m not great with heights) I was really nervous on the traverse, which rather spoiled my enjoyment, and that is a pity as I would have liked to have enjoyed it more. It was still quite thrilling and led me to the other side of the cove through woodland to the official path up to the top of cove. When I was here, for the first time, five years ago, the top of the cove was crowded with people, but since it was now still early in the morning I had the place to myself which allowed me to hop across the limestone pavement to my heart’s content, frequently stopping to gaze through the cracks at the tender plants growing there.

With the sun shining in the gorgeous weather I walked down the breath-taking scenery of the dry valley below Ing Scar to another dry waterfall, but much smaller, below Comb Hill. A steep climb around the edge of Comb Hill led me into the valley above the dry waterfall where a cave could be seen that just had to be explored. A short scramble led me up to the top, but since it didn’t go in very far I soon came back down and continued along the dry valley eventually passing the water sinks where the stream disappears through gaps in the stones into subterranean passages. Continuing along the course of the Pennine Way I made my way to the deservedly popular Malham Tarn where I was undecided of my onward route. I had considered walking to the limestone scars of Back Pasture beyond the tarn, but there seemed little point so eventually I merely climbed to the top of Great Close Hill that overlooks Malham Tarn.

Eventually I dropped back down the hill and headed back towards Malham Cove on a path that passes a fabulous area of limestone scars passing through Trougate to the hillside just to the east of the cove, which I bypassed as I made my way towards Gordale Scar. There is a great little walk in the area (which I did in 2009) that links Malham Cove, Gordale Scar and Janet’s Foss, and since I was now, briefly, on this path I felt obligated to visit the pretty waterfall of Janet’s Foss. This is within a delightful small wooded valley that at this time of the year is full of the garlic-smelling ramsons. There were many other wild flowers in this enthralling place and I couldn’t resist walking along the length of the valley despite having to return back to Janet’s Foss on reaching the end. Within sight of the delectable little waterfall I had my lunch before setting off once more towards Gordale Scar.

Geologically Gordale Scar is probably very similar to Malham Cove but where the water has disappeared from the cove, Gordale Scar still has a stream pouring over it which has transformed it into an amazing sight by carving a stunning ravine. I think Gordale Scar is a much more spectacular place compared with Malham Cove as the rock architecture of the scar is quite simply awe-inspiring, but it is also shy and alluring as the walls of the ravine close in only slowly and it isn’t until you turn a corner that the splendour of the ravine reveals itself. And the best thing about it is that the scenery got even better after a grade one scramble up the rocks beside the stream led me right into the heart of the ravine. I absolutely loved the experience of climbing Gordale Scar as the scenery was absolutely stunning. After scrambling up beside the waterfalls I stood awestruck by my surroundings, completely surrounded by soaring cliffs, feeling incredible to be right in the centre of Gordale Scar with that tremendous scenery all around me.

Slowly I made my way out of the ravine following the steep path that leads all the way out of the scar and onto the hillside above where a much easier walk led me now beside limestone scars back towards Malham Tarn as I frequently stopped to visit any cairns that I could see nearby. When I reached Street Gate the limestone scars were left behind and I joined a track that headed across relatively dull grassland that failed to spark any interest in me as I passed over Lee Gate High Mark and gradually descended into Littondale. This was a dull end to what had been a very exciting walk, but it was still good to stride out the miles crossing country on my way somewhere, which is what long-distance walking is all about and I rather enjoy even if there is nothing to interest me in this section of the walk. My plan for this day had been to enjoy myself in the area around Malham before heading across country to Kettlewell and I couldn’t complain as the first half of the day as it was fabulous even if the walk deteriorated after I passed Street Gate. Before then, I had been walking in scenery that Wainwright described as being the best walkers’ territory anywhere near the Pennine Way, and I was enjoying it in brilliant weather.