A Circuit above Aber Falls

Saturday 29th August 2015

The August Bank Holiday weekend saw me heading back to an area that at one time was my usual haunt at that time of the year, however, that had all ended in 2009 and apart from a couple of trips up Snowdon I had not been back to Snowdonia at any time of the year since. I felt like I was due a return not only to this once familiar ground, but also to see if I could find new routes up these well-known mountains. The first place I went was somewhere that I had not been back to since my very first walking holiday in Snowdonia, back in 2003, when on the last day of that holiday I climbed up the northern mountains of the Carneddau starting from Aber Falls. Despite ever since wanting to take the footpath that climbs to the top of the waterfall I had never been back, until now. In 2003 I had taken a route that went around the falls, and on this walk I would return to the same mountains as then, but the route that I now took was via the top of Aber Falls on that path that I had wanted to walk for a long time.

Once I had arrived at the car park for the Coedydd Aber National Nature Reserve I headed along the track through the delightfully wooded valley until I eventually reached the foot of the tall Aber Falls. This was a splendid sight and it was such a long time since I had last been there I had forgotten just how good is this waterfall. After taking many pictures to keep as a reminder of this waterfall for many years to come, I retraced my steps and diverted onto a path that climbs scree slopes onto the path that climbs to the top of the waterfall. At one point the path crosses some steep crags on a glorious, narrow terrace high above the falls with some precarious scrambling that made the traverse even more exciting, especially after the recent rainfall. Eventually I emerged beside the stream above Aber Falls with the sound of the waterfall roaring steeply below.

I had to head upstream for quite some distance before I was able to safely cross and from there ascend the steep heather and bilberry covered slopes for a frustratingly long and tedious climb. I had no footpath to follow and bands of rain and sunshine passed over me as I slowly approached the rocks of Bera Mawr. With full waterproofs on I completed the climb up the scattered rocks under the mixed weather conditions with strong, cold winds that encouraged me to keep my waterproofs on throughout the day despite later spells of sunshine. After climbing around the rocks of Bera Mawr I eventually reached the highest point, which was actually near the far side of the widely scattered rocks. After I’d had enough of climbing over the wet, slippery rocks I made my way across the grassy slopes that separate Bera Mawr from its twin, Bera Bach, where I sheltered from the strong winds and had my lunch.

Striking off along the top of the ridge I headed towards what had been known as Garnedd Uchaf when I was last in the area, back in 2006, but now appears to be called Carnedd Gwenllian. According to Wikipedia the summit was officially renamed on 26th September 2009 after a campaign by the Princess Gwenllian Society. Gwenllian of Wales was the only child of Llywelyn ap Gruffudd who has long been immortalised in the name of the nearby mountain of Carnedd Llywelyn, however walkers do not like change in old favourites, and so for me Carnedd Gwenllian will stubbornly remain Carnedd Uchaf. Despite cold winds it was sunny at the top of the mountain and the views of Gwenllian’s father with Yr Elen beside him were fabulous. When I was on these mountains in 2003 the weather was very poor and I had no view to enjoy, but now the weather was treating me a lot better.

From the top of Carnedd Uchaf I headed towards Foel Grach with Carnedd Llywelyn brooding under dark clouds behind. It had started raining when I reached Foel Grach in 2003 and the dark clouds of Carnedd Llywelyn once again deposited their bounty upon me when I reached Foel Grach. I didn’t stay long at the top, or go further along the ridge, as once I’d touched the summit cairn I turned around and headed back towards Carnedd Uchaf where the weather was better and the sun was shining. I hadn’t enjoyed the long climb up the dreary slopes to Bera Mawr, but as I walked past Carnedd Uchaf and towards Foel-fras with the sun shining once again I was relishing being at the top of a mountain again with far-reaching views all around me. I never enjoy long climbs, but walking along the top of a ridge with the sun shining revealing stunning views I am reminded of why I made the effort to climb the long slope.

When I reached Foel-fras I had summited my third Welsh three-thousand-footer of the day, which left me with another twelve that I hoped to summit before the end of my holiday. This is the northern-most three-thousand-footer so from there I began descending, not on the long ridge over Drum that I had taken in 2003, but turning left I headed steeply down towards Llwytmor. It was very windy at this point on the walk and there was little trace of a path for me to follow as I passed over Llwytmor until I reached Llwytmor Bach where I turned left again and descended into the valley of the Afon Goch. When I finally reached the bottom of the valley I picked up a faint path that took me back to the top of Aber Falls. I was now sheltered from the strong, cold winds that had been assailing me while on the tops so I was now finally able to take my waterproofs off and enjoy the sunny weather as I made the rocky traverse above Aber Falls once again. The weather was fabulous back in the nature reserve as I basked in the sunshine slowly descending into the wooded valley.

This was a curious walk with changeable weather and some frustrating or tedious moments, but also with some very enjoyable occasions. I really enjoyed the traverse across the rocks above Aber Falls so will be looking to do that path again and that gives me an excuse to see the falls themselves again. It was also great to be at the top of mountains again for the first time since Easter and reminded me that despite how much I may enjoy long distance paths there’s no beating being at the top of a mountain in good weather. It was interesting to note that the least enjoyable moments of this walk were on the ascent and descent when I was not following a footpath, which does teach you something about me. Despite the changeable weather this was a good start to my long-awaited return to the Welsh three-thousand-footers.