The Hidden Valley of Glen Coe

Thursday 8th September 2016

Just as on the previous day I was once again unsure what walk I was going to do on this holiday where I was so often plagued with bad weather. The weather was now even worse than it had been the day before, and this time it never improved with rain falling for most of the day. After spending an hour moping around Fort William, I drove south to Glen Coe stopping off in the National Trust for Scotland visitor centre. I wasn’t impressed with what I saw so I soon left and drove a short distance up the valley to a car park for the National Trust for Scotland property of An Torr Woodland and Signal Rock. The signal rock was the site where, historically, the head of the Glencoe MacDonalds would address his clan, and according to legend was also the place where the signal was given to the Campbells to begin the Glencoe Massacre. While it continued to rain I walked across the River Coe and along a way-marked path through the An Torr woodland eventually reaching a lump of rock that is now nothing special and since it is also now surrounded by trees there are no views.

When I came into Glen Coe I had been hopeful that the weather would lift as it had done the previous days this week, and it had actually looked like the clouds were lifting above the mountains, but as the morning dragged on the rain came and went, and the clouds rose and fell in corresponding fashion. With misty views of the valley I followed a black marked trail through An Torr wood soon returning back to my car. With no sign of a lifting of the weather I drove further up the valley stopping opposite the Three Sisters, the mighty bastions of Glen Coe that guard the entrance to the hidden valley. Ten years ago I did a walk into the lost valley of Glen Coe going all the way up to the top of Bidean nam Bian, the highest point in the area. This walk had been done in low cloud and it had originally been my intention to repeat that walk now so I could actually see the hidden valley.

Despite the rain, I decided it would still be worth trying to walk up to Coire Gabhail and see if I could get a view this time. Therefore I donned all my waterproofs and headed down to the river crossing the rushing waters of the narrow gorge and up a very steep and rocky path. On the day before I had been through the Nevis gorge on a path that some have described as the best in the country, but I think this one should also have a valid claim to that honour. I loved this path that is rougher and therefore more fun, especially in the wet conditions which made things more challenging. The highlight of the path is the scenery in the closed-in valley that is really lush with moisture-loving vegetation. The stream is also spectacular with many small waterfalls and cascades that were a delight to look at while slowly walking up the steep valley. The bad weather was doing nothing to spoil my enjoyment of this walk, but I would love to have been there in good weather.

At a boulder I turned right and scrambled above it on a path that was becoming more challenging and eventually came to the foot of a scree slope. Part way up the slope I thought that something wasn’t right so I got out my map and discovered that I should have crossed the river at the boulder. The path that I was on must lead to the 692 metre top at the end of Geàrr Aonach, the middle ridge of the Three Sisters. Hastily I made my way back down the scree and scrambled back down to the foot of the boulder where I saw some people trepidatiously attempting to cross the swollen stream. I had no hesitation in immediately crossing the stream in my waterproof footwear and on the other side found a well-made path that continues to climb up the valley until I suddenly came onto a rocky ledge that overlooks the awesome sight of the Lost Valley of Glen Coe, Coire Gabhail, where the MacDonalds of Glen Coe used to hide their cattle, and the cattle of others.

Ten years ago I hadn’t seen this sight as the clouds had been too low, but despite the rain I now had a clear view across the level plain with the towering crags that soar above the valley floor. This was an amazing sight even in such bad weather and despite getting wet with the weather at this point throwing everything at me, I was enthralled at all that I was seeing. I wandered into the centre of the hidden valley, gazing around at the misty crags towering above me until eventually I turned around and headed back down the path. The weather was still showing no sign of improvement, but it had been great fun walking up and down that fabulous path. I had done very little in the morning while hoping for the weather to improve, but once I had finally decided to go for a walk I went to an awesome location on a truly great path. I must come back to Glen Coe soon and do the whole walk that I’d originally intended for this day, but in good weather.