The Derwent Water Walk

Friday 23rd December 2016

With the Winter Storm Barbara throwing all it had onto the Lake District including very high winds and persistent rain, this was not the day to do a walk over the fells. I had been in a similar position exactly two years before when I had opted to stay low by walking around the lake of Derwent Water keeping away from the lakeshore paths that were completely flooded. This time, despite the heavy rain, there wasn’t any flooding so this time I hoped that I’d be able to walk on the lakeshore paths that I had not done previously. Last time, I had gone around Derwent Water in an anti-clockwise direction, so this time I decided to head clockwise and started by leaving Keswick through Crowe Park to the road beside the Lakeside Car Park and the Theatre by the Lake. Normally this area is busy with many tourists going to the nearby landing stages for the Keswick Launch that takes people around Derwent Water, but there were very few people here on this miserable day as I made my way down Lake Road, past the landing stages and onto the track that leads to Friar’s Crag with the memorial to John Ruskin on the mound behind.

There is a very good view from Friar’s Crag across the length of Derwent Water to the Jaws of Borrowdale beyond and the surrounding fells, but I could see nothing in this terrible weather and with a surprisingly strong wind blowing rain into my face I didn’t stop long enough to look. I couldn’t help wondering how windy the tops of the fells must be if this was how windy it was at the shore of the lake. Quickly I turned around and headed onto the path that heads east through the boggy woodland of the Ings to a farm track that leads to Stable Hills. I soon started to see signs for the Derwent Water Walk and these would lead me all around the lake. One such sign directed me across the grasslands of Stable Hills onto a path that hugs the lakeshore as I rounded Broomhill Point and kept to the edge of Calfclose Bay. My map indicates that a footpath passes through the narrow strip of woodland between the lake and the road, but this was increasingly difficult to follow even though at times it was quite fun trying to trace the intermittent and tricky path through fallen leaves and up rocky ground.

Often my only option to get past the obstacles was to climb up onto the road and follow that for a short distance until another opening appeared enabling me to make further progress through the woodland. With hindsight this was quite an exciting part of the walk, though on the day I was relieved when I eventually reached the Ashness Gate Landing Stage where the path finally became easier to follow. At Barrow Bay a clear path follows the lakeshore around a small headland, although the path was still rather waterlogged and fast moving streams had to be carefully traversed. At Kettlewell Car Park the path moves to the other side of the road and meanders pleasantly through the trees and past moss covered boulders that led me all the way to the Lodore Hotel. After a brief, but welcome, shelter from the rain at the public convenience that is just after the hotel, I turned right onto a path that heads across the marshes immediately south of Derwent Water.

I have a long history with this path having first walked upon it in 2002 on my first holiday in the Lake District and despite several attempts subsequently I had never been on this path again, until this moment. I remember being at the start of this path two years ago and seeing a sign marking a path that led straight into the middle of the Lake, such was the flooding. I had such no problems now as I crossed the field to the well-made ‘Chinese Bridge’ across the River Derwent onto a boardwalk that kept my feet dry while crossing the marshy wetlands (or as dry as they can be when it is raining all day). The view all around me was delightful with long, golden-coloured grass covering the marshland and made up for the lack of any view of the surrounding fells. It is ironic that the first time in over fourteen years that this path has been dry enough for me to walk over is when it is pouring it down with rain. Eventually I reached drier ground where the boardwalks ended and a good path took me back north through the woodland of Manesty Park.

I have never walked upon this path before that follows the western shore of Derwent Water and it was a pleasure as I was able to stroll with very little effort along a wide track through the lovely Brandelhow Park. Two years ago I used the path that traverses the eastern slopes of Cat Bells while this way had probably lain under water, but now I was able to take this wonderful path that follows the edge of the lake before finally climbing up to Hawes End at the northern end of Cat Bells. From there I followed a very familiar route that I have taken many, many times through Overside Wood and Fawe Park into Portinscale and over the River Derwent to Keswick. This wasn’t a long walk as it only took me about four hours, but the weather was abysmal so this was a good walk to do when the weather is this wet and windy. I remember being told by an old walker many years ago that so long as you can stay dry and warm you can walk in any weather, and that adage was proved right on this walk that was consequently quite enjoyable.

High Rigg and Bleaberry Fell

Thursday 22nd December 2016

Once again on this holiday it was raining at the start of the day, which was spent wandering around the normally tourist-filled village of Grasmere until a bus finally turned up and took me to the northern end of Thirlmere and the junction with the road that passes over the dam for the reservoir. Fortunately the rain had stopped by the time the bus dropped me off. My plan was to do a walk through Shoulthwaite Gill, but I was already at the prime spot to start a walk over High Rigg, an isolated wedge of high ground that sits between St. John’s in the Vale and the valley of Naddle Beck. But I didn’t really want to do a walk over High Rigg even though I had plenty of time. It is curious that I should have such a dislike for a fell that is surrounded by fells that contain tremendous scenery and are a joy to walk along. At first glance it would seem that High Rigg is an undulating ridge similar to Silver How and since I loved walking over that fell just two days previously, what could be the problem with High Rigg? I immediately headed away from High Rigg when I got off the bus because I didn’t want to walk over it, but in the end I decided that since I had so much time I may as well go over High Rigg even though I knew I wasn’t going to enjoy it.

After crossing St. John’s Beck, I took a path that climbs through woodland onto the craggy hills that make up the southern end of High Rigg. At this point I was wondering what my problem had been with the fell as it started promisingly with an interesting walk under trees and past craggy rocks up to the top of Wren Crag. Through the trees behind me Great How obscured views of Thirlmere, while ahead of me Skiddaw could be seen over the top of High Rigg, but it wasn’t long before the walk started to deteriorate as boggy ground and steep descents marred the traverse. Ultimately I think this fell is not really a ridge as there are too many undulations, particularly on the western side which falls gradually to the valley floor, so that a wedge is a better description. I think I could have a more enjoyable time traversing High Rigg, if the tops of the significant rises are visited on the way and the traverse is done in the opposite direction, even though south to north is the recommended route so that the fine view of Blencathra is in front. My previous visits to High Rigg were also in winter when I may not have seen the fell at its best, so maybe I should make a return visit in late summer and with a clearer resolve to do the fell justice.

Eventually I reached the cairn that marks the summit of High Rigg where I had views under overcast skies towards Skiddaw and Blencathra while behind me over the length of High Rigg the sun was desperately trying to appear between the fells either side of Thirlmere. A steep descent took me down to the church and youth centre at the top of the pass where I turned left following the track around the edge of the fell eventually returning to the main road at Rough How Bridge. A short walk through Shoulthwaite Farm brought me to Shoulthwaite Gill, a hidden valley that I have a lot of affection for with its dramatic crags that are covered in trees on one side. There is a path marked in Wainwright’s that I was interested in following, so after eating my lunch I set off up the side of the steep valley towards Goat Crag eventually turning left to climb to a conspicuous rock that the latest edition of Wainwright’s calls a flat-topped boulder where I found a small cairn on top. I couldn’t see any sign of a path, so the cairn was reassuring as I made my way high above the valley and below the tall cliffs of Goat Crag.

Skiddaw and Blencathra were now becoming speckled with sunlight while I remained under thick cloud as I made way along a rough, stony terrace that I hoped was the grass shelf marked in Wainwright’s. When the terrace came to an end, I investigated further around very steep ground to a little trickle of a waterfall that was clearly not the correct route so I retreated and climbed a steep grassy slope to gentler grassy slopes above the waterfall where another small waterfall was hidden away in a delightful and secluded alcove. It was great to see these hidden gems that few people will come across, but would be widely proclaimed if only they were not hidden away in a place such as the Lake District that is overflowing with such delights. Another short climb through heather brought me onto the vast grassy slopes of Bleaberry Fell where route-finding could have been tricky. I decided to turn north towards the top of Goat Crag and follow the high ground from there towards Bleaberry Fell thus avoiding, without realising it, the big bog that is at the top of the stream. Occasionally a faint path appeared in the grass, but most of the time I was following my own route all the way up to the top of Bleaberry Fell where a gale was blowing that I had been sheltered from throughout most of the day.

Sinking below the summit I sat sheltered from the wind and gazed out over the improving weather on the fells north and east. I was still sitting under dark clouds, but Blencathra and Great How were basking in the sunshine. I sat for a while enjoying the views prolonging the moment until I would have to endure the gales on the other side of the fell. My walk so far had avoided these winds, but I felt disappointed that I had not spent more time exploring Shoulthwaite Gill, a valley that I ultimately had not spent much time in. Eventually I climbed up to the summit cairns and into the howling gales that were blasting up the western slopes of Bleaberry Fell as I slowly made my way down the paved path until I had descended far enough for the wind to ease. Now an excellent path took me effortlessly away Bleaberry Fell towards Low Moss that I remember being really boggy the last time that I was in the area, so boggy in fact that I’d marked it on my map. Now, a heavily manufactured path has been built that ensures dry feet all the way to the path near Walla Crag. This excellent viewpoint could not be avoided so I made the small diversion to the awesome views that can be seen across Derwent Water and Keswick, and towards Bassenthwaite Lake.

There is a fun little path that skirts the edge of the escarpment from Walla Crag through the trees sometimes offering exciting views down the precipitous slopes. I couldn’t resist the challenge of taking this path until it finally joins the main path on the other side of a wall, which I followed all the way down into Keswick. Just as on the previous day, the weather on this walk had improved in the afternoon, but unlike then I was not walking in one of those areas that were basking in sunlight. This was not a great day as I did not enjoy walking over High Rigg, which I knew would be the case before I’d started. This fell must be better than I think it is if only I would give it a chance. The path that I took below Goat Crag was not clear enough or long enough to be really satisfying, assuming that I was following the correct route. I think I would have had a more enjoyable walk if I had gone up the valley beside Shoulthwaite Gill and climbed out when I had reached Mere Gill. It was still great being in the Lake District and I had some awesome views particularly towards Skiddaw and Blencathra that made me glad to be walking there.

Nab Scar and Fairfield

Wednesday 21st December 2016

At the start of this day the weather was terrible with rain that didn’t look like it was ever going to stop with low clouds and strong winds. There seemed to be no chance of improvement throughout the day so I was resigned to a short walk along the Coffin Route that lies between Ambleside and Grasmere. After a stroll along the main road out of the village, I turned onto the wide track that passes pleasantly through Rydal Park to Rydal Hall. Since it was still raining I wandered around the grounds exploring a place that usually I would rush past. Rydal Hall and the surrounding estate is owned by the Diocese of Carlisle and maintained as a conference, retreat and holiday centre. I had a look around the gardens and stopped off at the Grotto, which is an Eighteenth Century viewing station, a simple slate hut with a picturesque view through the window of a waterfall with a bridge in the background. For some reason people in those days preferred to view the outdoors from indoors, which is not my thing as I always prefer to be outdoors even if it’s raining.

Leaving the hall behind, I headed towards Nab Scar and as I started to climb the zigzags on the path it finally stopped raining. With better views behind me stretching out to Windermere than I’d had all week, I made my way up the steep, prolonged climb to the top of Nab Scar. I was unsure whether I had reached the top as likely candidates lacked a cairn while the only cairn that I saw, just after crossing a wall, seemed woefully inadequate with higher ground only a short distance away. However this cairn is actually the recognized summit, though even Wainwright acknowledges about the summit that “hereabouts the immediate surroundings are uninteresting, the redeeming feature being the fine view”. I was not in a mood to linger at the summit as I was being battered by severe winds and the conditions only became worse as I slowly made my way up the ridge towards Heron Crag. The year before I had climbed Heron Pike only to find strong winds so I was not keen on repeating the experience, therefore just before reaching Lord Crag I took the faint path that branches off the ridge and down to Alcock Tarn on a wet and slippery path.

Alcock Tarn is a small reservoir that Wainwright dismissively referred to as a “dreary sheet of water” and I can’t really say that I disagree with him, but the dam made a good place to sit while gazing at the scenery to the south. I was unsure what my next move should be as it was still only about noon and all my options, except back the way I had come, were to descend to Grasmere. While I sat there eating my lunch, gaps started appearing in the clouds revealing blue sky and before too long the sun finally made an appearance this week. After a short shower the clouds cleared once more and now the sun looked like it was going to stay. Since the weather was now looking really good, I decided that my only option was to risk heading back up to the top of the ridge and see if the wind had eased. Quickly I made my way along the path that I had recently descended back onto the ridge between Nab Scar and Heron Pike. It was still very windy, but as I made my way up the ridge towards Heron Pike the wind didn’t seem as bad as it had been earlier and so I began a fabulous walk along the ridge in glorious sunshine.

It was great walking over high fells in the Lakes with the sun beaming down on me and having great views of the awesome ridge ahead of me leading all the way up to Fairfield at the top of the horseshoe ridge. I was astounded at how fortunate I was to have such great weather in the Lake District, especially after the terrible weather that I had endured at the start of the day. On several occasions I actually laughed uncontrollably as I was just so overjoyed at the experience of walking in the Lake District in such fabulous weather. After passing over Heron Pike I had a glorious view of the ridge basking in the sunshine and while on a level stretch I realised that the weather was so good I could keep going all the way up to the top of Fairfield, which I would never dreamed of doing when I started the walk. Although the sun was shining, it was still bitterly cold and I had to wrap up snugly, but it wasn’t too windy, so I had a joyously lovely walk along the level ridge before the terrain steepened for the climb up to the top of Great Rigg.

The last time I was at Great Rigg was three years ago in poor weather, but now the sun was shining on me even though other parts of the Lake District were still shrouded in cloud. I realised that I’ve not walked the ridge between Great Rigg and Heron Pike since 2002 on my first ever visit to the Lake District. After pausing for a while at the top of Great Rigg to take some pictures of the snow-speckled Fairfield and the Helvellyn range behind looking gorgeous in the sunshine, I set off along the ridge. The icy plateau of Fairfield was very wintry with a strong, terribly cold wind blowing across its exposed top, so with the views now becoming duller I decided to quickly make my way down. I had considered copying my route of three years ago over Cofa Pike and down the path from Deepdale Hause to Grisedale Tarn, but in the end I decided to brave the screes to Grisedale Hause. A bitterly cold, harsh wind blew at me as I made my way down the awful screes that I have usually avoided ever since my first experience of them back in 2002. It was with enormous relief that I finally reached Grisedale Hause.

By now the sun was beginning to set and the bright sunshine that I had briefly enjoyed was fading, so it was definitely time for me to be making my way down. It was with great satisfaction that I slowly descended the path beside Tongue Gill all the way down to Grasmere. This was an awesome walk that I never thought, when I left Ambleside, would take me all the way up to Fairfield. I am so glad that I climbed back onto the ridge from Alcock Tarn when the sun came out. This was an amazing day that must rank as one of the most astonishing that I have ever had in the Lake District. Even though it was sunny on that ridge it was very cold, but I was nice and warm under my layers of clothing, which made the experience of walking along that ridge even more delicious. A poor start was transformed into an amazing walk in astonishing weather on a great ridge to the icy summit of Fairfield.

Silver How and Loughrigg

Tuesday 20th December 2016

If I had to be honest I would admit that I hadn’t prepared for this holiday as well as I normally would when I every last detail is planned from start to finish. I will usually spend months pouring over maps and studying timetables until I know precisely where I’m going to be walking on any one day in my holiday, even though weather often intervenes and forces me to abandon my plans. This time I was so sure of bad weather that every time I thought of somewhere to walk I would immediately think I’ll probably not be able to do that because of the weather. Consequently the previous evening I was desperately pouring over my map trying to decide what to do and eventually decided that I would catch a bus to Dungeon Ghyll, in Great Langdale, and walk back along the ridge over Blea Rigg and Silver How. However, I was still so unprepared that, after going back to my room in the hostel several times for things that I’d forgotten, by the time I got to the bus stop the bus had already gone, so once again I was without a plan. The weather for this walk was worse than it had been the day before with grey, murky skies and now a bitterly cold wind that should have deterred anyone from going up onto the fells.

Dejectedly, I started wandering down the road towards Langdale, which was fine until I reached Clappersgate where the path beside the road disappeared and I had to risk death by walking on the busy road until I finally reached safety at Skelwith Bridge. There I had a path, away from the road, beside the River Brathay and I felt that only now was the walk actually starting, and it was immediately very pleasant. I soon reached the lovely, little waterfall of Skelwith Force, which I have visited many times before, but it was nice to visit it again before continuing along the easy path to Elterwater. It was a pleasure to walk along this path, despite the miserable weather, and eventually reached the small community of Chapel Stile in Great Langdale. From there I had several points from which I could climb onto the Silver How ridge, but I chose to continue along the road beyond Chapel Stile until just before I reached Harry Place Farm I took a path that climbs steeply up the hillside. Wainwright mentions this path in his Blea Rigg chapter saying that it is a “beautiful and exciting route, hardly more strenuous than the road and infinitely preferable.”

After an initial steep, strenuous climb that had me questioning Wainwright, the path levels to become a wonderful terrace route with views through the mist up Langdale over the top of Copt How. Better weather would have given me better views, but I was still enjoying the walk along this great path through the dead bracken over Thrang Crag and eventually I joined up with the paths that come up from Chapel Stile. That includes a familiar path that I remember taking four years ago on my way to Grasmere, but this time I was not going all the way over the ridge, just to Silver How at the top. When I reached the top of the spectacular ravine of Megs Gill, I came off the path, initially by mistake though I soon realised that I had missed the turning, and decided to follow a faint path beside Megs Gill in order to explore the area. There is a cairn marked on the map in the vicinity overlooking Langdale that is labelled on Wainwright’s original edition as Stone Man but is absent from the later editions. Not surprisingly I couldn’t find it any more than Chris Jesty or Clive Hutchby could. The views from that point should be spectacular looking towards Elterwater, but they looked into the same mist that I had seen all day.

The best views were behind me looking onto the fabulous Silver How ridge with its complex undulating skyline that is a joy to explore so long as the clouds are not too low. I have spent many a wonderful afternoon slowly descending this gently undulating ridge from Blea Rigg exploring the many tops along the way, visiting Great Castle How and Lang How among others before reaching Silver How. That had been my plan for this walk, but since I had missed the bus I was now left to climb from Megs Gill on faint paths and head up to the top of Silver How. Ducking behind the summit crag of Silver How, I had my lunch while trying to hide from the bitterly cold wind that was making being at the top of this relatively small fell feel mountainous. After eating I descended the steep, scree gully that is immediately below the summit and after crossing the Grasmere path I followed the edge of Wyke Plantation before taking a turning back up towards the top of the ridge. I had a thoroughly enjoyable time making my way along this undulating ridge on the many glorious paths that make this such a fascinating place and a joy to walk.

Eventually I reached the road near the Langdale Youth Hostel and a short walk along the road brought me to the top of Red Bank and the start of the popular tourist route up Loughrigg. This was my first fell in the Lake District, back in 2002, and I have had a lot of affection for the fell since then, even though I lost a pair of glasses on Loughrigg that day. Soon after I started climbing it started raining, which eventually prompted me to put my waterproof trousers on, which prompted the rain to stop. That happens so many times. I kept going until I reached the wind-swept summit of Loughrigg, but I didn’t stay there long as the weather was deteriorating fast, so I continued over the fell following the clear path that gradually descends all the way down to the bridlepath that crosses the southern corner of the fell. Maintaining my traverse of Loughrigg, I headed past the path onto the undulating ridge that passes Lily Tarn before ending at the top of Todd Crag where I could see stunning views in the diminishing light over the northern end of Windermere.

I had only once before been to the top of Todd Crag and it had been exceptionally windy on that occasion, and now the weather was not much better with poor visibility. I would love to spend a lot of time exploring Todd Crag, but this was not the occasion so I dropped down onto an excellent path that I had never been on before to Clappersgate, and I was overawed by the genius of its construction as it zigzags down the hillside. Despite the failing light, it was a pleasure to walk on this brilliant path that has since often come to my mind. I must come back in better weather as I cannot believe this little path could have been so good. The weather was not great on this walk with a bitingly cold wind and the walk didn’t really start until I got to Skelwith Bridge and it really took off when I came onto the path at Harry Place. I enjoyed most of this walk simply because it was in the Lake District, and I loved being back, but the ridge around Silver How was immensely entertaining and a joy no matter what the weather. Loughrigg is almost a separate fell and was a welcome bonus despite the deteriorating weather. After all my uncertainty before this walk, and after spending the morning dodging cars, it is great to be able to say that I ended up really enjoying this walk.