High Rigg and Bleaberry Fell

Thursday 22nd December 2016

Once again on this holiday it was raining at the start of the day, which was spent wandering around the normally tourist-filled village of Grasmere until a bus finally turned up and took me to the northern end of Thirlmere and the junction with the road that passes over the dam for the reservoir. Fortunately the rain had stopped by the time the bus dropped me off. My plan was to do a walk through Shoulthwaite Gill, but I was already at the prime spot to start a walk over High Rigg, an isolated wedge of high ground that sits between St. John’s in the Vale and the valley of Naddle Beck. But I didn’t really want to do a walk over High Rigg even though I had plenty of time. It is curious that I should have such a dislike for a fell that is surrounded by fells that contain tremendous scenery and are a joy to walk along. At first glance it would seem that High Rigg is an undulating ridge similar to Silver How and since I loved walking over that fell just two days previously, what could be the problem with High Rigg? I immediately headed away from High Rigg when I got off the bus because I didn’t want to walk over it, but in the end I decided that since I had so much time I may as well go over High Rigg even though I knew I wasn’t going to enjoy it.

After crossing St. John’s Beck, I took a path that climbs through woodland onto the craggy hills that make up the southern end of High Rigg. At this point I was wondering what my problem had been with the fell as it started promisingly with an interesting walk under trees and past craggy rocks up to the top of Wren Crag. Through the trees behind me Great How obscured views of Thirlmere, while ahead of me Skiddaw could be seen over the top of High Rigg, but it wasn’t long before the walk started to deteriorate as boggy ground and steep descents marred the traverse. Ultimately I think this fell is not really a ridge as there are too many undulations, particularly on the western side which falls gradually to the valley floor, so that a wedge is a better description. I think I could have a more enjoyable time traversing High Rigg, if the tops of the significant rises are visited on the way and the traverse is done in the opposite direction, even though south to north is the recommended route so that the fine view of Blencathra is in front. My previous visits to High Rigg were also in winter when I may not have seen the fell at its best, so maybe I should make a return visit in late summer and with a clearer resolve to do the fell justice.

Eventually I reached the cairn that marks the summit of High Rigg where I had views under overcast skies towards Skiddaw and Blencathra while behind me over the length of High Rigg the sun was desperately trying to appear between the fells either side of Thirlmere. A steep descent took me down to the church and youth centre at the top of the pass where I turned left following the track around the edge of the fell eventually returning to the main road at Rough How Bridge. A short walk through Shoulthwaite Farm brought me to Shoulthwaite Gill, a hidden valley that I have a lot of affection for with its dramatic crags that are covered in trees on one side. There is a path marked in Wainwright’s that I was interested in following, so after eating my lunch I set off up the side of the steep valley towards Goat Crag eventually turning left to climb to a conspicuous rock that the latest edition of Wainwright’s calls a flat-topped boulder where I found a small cairn on top. I couldn’t see any sign of a path, so the cairn was reassuring as I made my way high above the valley and below the tall cliffs of Goat Crag.

Skiddaw and Blencathra were now becoming speckled with sunlight while I remained under thick cloud as I made way along a rough, stony terrace that I hoped was the grass shelf marked in Wainwright’s. When the terrace came to an end, I investigated further around very steep ground to a little trickle of a waterfall that was clearly not the correct route so I retreated and climbed a steep grassy slope to gentler grassy slopes above the waterfall where another small waterfall was hidden away in a delightful and secluded alcove. It was great to see these hidden gems that few people will come across, but would be widely proclaimed if only they were not hidden away in a place such as the Lake District that is overflowing with such delights. Another short climb through heather brought me onto the vast grassy slopes of Bleaberry Fell where route-finding could have been tricky. I decided to turn north towards the top of Goat Crag and follow the high ground from there towards Bleaberry Fell thus avoiding, without realising it, the big bog that is at the top of the stream. Occasionally a faint path appeared in the grass, but most of the time I was following my own route all the way up to the top of Bleaberry Fell where a gale was blowing that I had been sheltered from throughout most of the day.

Sinking below the summit I sat sheltered from the wind and gazed out over the improving weather on the fells north and east. I was still sitting under dark clouds, but Blencathra and Great How were basking in the sunshine. I sat for a while enjoying the views prolonging the moment until I would have to endure the gales on the other side of the fell. My walk so far had avoided these winds, but I felt disappointed that I had not spent more time exploring Shoulthwaite Gill, a valley that I ultimately had not spent much time in. Eventually I climbed up to the summit cairns and into the howling gales that were blasting up the western slopes of Bleaberry Fell as I slowly made my way down the paved path until I had descended far enough for the wind to ease. Now an excellent path took me effortlessly away Bleaberry Fell towards Low Moss that I remember being really boggy the last time that I was in the area, so boggy in fact that I’d marked it on my map. Now, a heavily manufactured path has been built that ensures dry feet all the way to the path near Walla Crag. This excellent viewpoint could not be avoided so I made the small diversion to the awesome views that can be seen across Derwent Water and Keswick, and towards Bassenthwaite Lake.

There is a fun little path that skirts the edge of the escarpment from Walla Crag through the trees sometimes offering exciting views down the precipitous slopes. I couldn’t resist the challenge of taking this path until it finally joins the main path on the other side of a wall, which I followed all the way down into Keswick. Just as on the previous day, the weather on this walk had improved in the afternoon, but unlike then I was not walking in one of those areas that were basking in sunlight. This was not a great day as I did not enjoy walking over High Rigg, which I knew would be the case before I’d started. This fell must be better than I think it is if only I would give it a chance. The path that I took below Goat Crag was not clear enough or long enough to be really satisfying, assuming that I was following the correct route. I think I would have had a more enjoyable walk if I had gone up the valley beside Shoulthwaite Gill and climbed out when I had reached Mere Gill. It was still great being in the Lake District and I had some awesome views particularly towards Skiddaw and Blencathra that made me glad to be walking there.