Elan Valley

Friday 30th August 2019

My plans for this walk were stopped by the strong winds that were forecast for Wales. I was in the middle of a tour of Wales retracing some of the fantastic walks that I have done over the last twenty years, but nearly all of those walks were up mountains, and the top of a mountain is not the place you want to be in gale force winds that can knock you off your feet. I had planned to walk up the Aran range of mountains in the southern end of Snowdonia on a walk that I had previously done in 2004. Instead I considered staying in the Brecon Beacons National Park and doing another walk in the Black Mountains, but that would also be severely impacted by the strong winds. In desperation I looked at the map and noticed that between the Brecon Beacons National Park and Snowdonia National Park is an area of lower hills known as the Cambrian Mountains or in Welsh, the Elenydd. The Elenydd is not a national park or even a designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and consequently is largely ignored by walkers. I had only once been to the area before when, in 2006, I walked up Plynlimon at the northern end of the Elenydd and the highest point.

The map indicated that my route towards Snowdonia would pass through the Elenydd close to the Elan Valley, which is an area that is not only famed for its picturesque scenery but is also sometimes known as the Welsh Lake District. I needed no other incentive, so driving up from Brecon I came into the Elan Valley and parked at the visitor centre. Since I had not planned to walk in the area I had no maps so I enquired inside on a possible walk that I could do and was recommended two walks that should take me all day around Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu Reservoirs. So, to start I climbed to the top of the dam that overlooks the visitor centre and was assailed by the winds that I had been trying to avoid, though they were not as strong as they would have been if I’d been at the top of a mountain. I followed a path along the southern shore of Caban Coch Reservoir below grey, overcast skies through spectacular rocky scenery that made me think it was a travesty when this beautiful valley was marred by the construction of the many reservoirs in the area. The path bent round into a side valley and headed steeply uphill through bracken and heather to the ruins of Ty’n y Pant farmhouse where I turned right to head back downhill across the Nant y Gro and around the head of the valley.

The views were stunning across the tranquil, deserted valley as I stood sheltered from the wind and thought that this was a delightful spot so I just had to stop to take in the stunning surroundings where nature was in abundance. Purple heather could be seen on the slopes of the hill opposite with scattered outcrops and a prominent cairn on top, while across the valley a craggy hill dropped steeply down to the reservoir. Eventually I tore myself away and rather than staying on the bridlepath I followed the directions I had been given “for best views of the reservoir” taking a path that drops down to a forestry road where I was able to take a relaxing walk around the side of the hill with views across the reservoir towards the viaduct that carries a road over the water. The grey, overcast skies threatened rain but held off while still spoiling my views. Eventually the wide track brought me to Llannerch y Cawr Farm and the road at the western tip of Caban Coch Reservoir. On the other side of the river that feeds the reservoir I took a path that climbs through heather to reach a track that follows the contour through a conifer plantation above the reservoir.

So far I had been walking largely on wide forestry tracks that are too artificial to be really satisfying, but that would soon change. After descending a bridlepath I reached the viaduct that I had seen earlier and behind a car park I sat down near the water’s edge to have my lunch. The first set of directions I had been given directed me back to the visitor centre at this point, but now I got out my second set of directions and began a circuit of Garreg Ddu Reservoir starting from the viaduct. The walk was now much better as I proceeded through deciduous, broadleaved woodland heading towards Cwm Coel that was much more delightful than the monotonous and artificial conifer plantations that I had encountered earlier. Initially I was still walking along quite a wide track but after turning back out of Cwm Coel my route came off the track onto a narrow footpath that meanders delightfully around tree roots and crosses streams on plank bridges.

This was a gorgeous path through fabulous woodland and is just the sort of place I love to walk. I was entranced with every step and thoroughly enjoyed myself as I slowly meandered through the woodland not far from the western shore of Garreg Ddu Reservoir until eventually I came out of the wood and reached the northern tip of the reservoir. The impressive dam for Penygarreg Reservoir could be seen through the trees, but unfortunately I had no more time to explore this fabulous area, which will have to wait for another time. Instead I turned south on the far side of the reservoir and followed the course of the old railway that was built to help with the construction of the dams, and provided me with a good route off road and took me all the way back to the visitor centre. This was a fantastic walk that kept me out of the strong winds and took me through an amazing area that I had tragically forsaken all these years in my unreasonable search for mountains. I hope I return to the Elan Valley soon and extend my adventures to explore the Elenydd which I have ignored for too long.