Kentmere Pike, Tarn Crag and Grey Crag

Friday 20th December 2019

Despite misty, heavily overcast conditions on this day, there was no rain and hardly any wind, which made for a surprisingly good walk. On coming up to the Lake District I had forgotten that I had originally also wanted to go up Kentmere Pike, so when I realised I made a hasty change of plans to include it even though I could have ignored my original intentions, but that would have ruined what I have planned for the future for no good reason. Driving up the narrow road through the water-logged Kent Valley I parked near the church in the tiny village of Kentmere and set off down the road across the river and up to Green Quarter where a path heads across the slopes of Green Quarter Fell. Soon I was so hot I had to take off several layers before venturing across the saturated fields. I took this path in 2004 coming down from the Kentmere Round and now I was going in the other direction while reflecting on the fifteen years that have passed since. I was much younger then, but I have climbed many mountains since and in many ways experience is far more valuable than youth.

The view was limited due to low cloud, however in better weather there must be a fine view, and I had no wind, which felt rather spooky as I walked across the boggy fell as there is almost always at least a breeze on a hill. When I reached the top of the pass I crossed the wide byway and took the path beside a fence, initially passing through bogs before tackling the glorious rocks up Wray Crag and into the clouds. At the summit of Shipman Knotts I found no cairn, however Wainwright informs us the highest point is the other side of the wall on the middle of three rocky knolls, however there is no way over the wall. I did find that three stones have been positioned on the western side of the wall opposite the highest point, which the latest edition of Wainright’s guide, the Walker’s Edition, indicates is intermittent with the stones sometimes being used to repair the wall (and the stones could also have been taken from the wall). Having climbed high there was now a cold, but light wind as I continued north across more mundane, grassy terrain, and as I couldn’t resist the temptation I diverted up to the top of Goat Scar, even though I couldn’t see anything from there in the mist.

From the cairn at the top of Goat Crag I returned to the fence and followed it up the broad grassy slopes of Kentmere Pike all the way up to the summit where a trig point confidently marks the top, although this is disputed by a cairn on the other side of the wall. Having achieved my goal for the day before noon I was now left with a choice of what to do next, but with relatively good, meaning calm, weather I felt I had to take advantage and bag the two fells that I had planned for the following day. These would involve a descent east into Longsleddale, but with snow patches on this high fell and steep crags lining the valley that could be dangerous in these misty conditions. Wainwright mentions a route off Kentmere Pike down Steel Rigg, but only recommends it in clear weather so I decided I would use the security of a wall to descend to the disused Wrengill Quarry. After crossing the Wren Gill I climbed up to an old pipeline and followed that keeping well away from the quarry workings until I reached the clear track over Gatescarth Pass. I had stunning views back up towards the snow-speckled ridge over Harter Fell and down the valley to the distant green fields of Longsleddale.

With a fleeting threat of rain in the air I had my lunch before setting off through the horrendously boggy Brownhowe Bottom while behind me Harter Fell began to emerge from the clouds. The boot-sucking bogs continued all the way up to the top of the pass where I turned right and headed south towards Tarn Crag. Half way up I turned around and saw that both Harter Fell and its neighbour across the Gatescarth Pass, Branstree, which I had climbed the day before, had appeared from the clouds and was producing a stunning sight. Continuing up I eventually reached the distinctive survey pillar that was constructed by the Haweswater Reservoir engineers and sits just a short distance from summit of Tarn Crag. Returning to the fence I could see that the clouds were continuing to lift and afforded me with views east along snow-lined grassy ridges and across Greycrag Tarn. Crossing this marsh with dry feet was going to be a challenge and despite keeping to the fence I had many wet moments to contend with, especially one towards the end when I appeared to be walking on water, upon a thick matt of moss that vibrated and rippled under my feet.

Finally I was across to the far side of the marsh and started climbing into the thickening clouds at the top of Grey Crag. I had previously climbed these fells on the eastern fringe of the Lake District in 2010 in weather that was no better than on this occasion and just as then I was rather thankful to get off these dreary, boggy fells and down increasingly steep terrain until I finally reached the old quarry road at the bottom of the valley. With the weather worsening I climbed through misty rain over the pass from Sadgill to Kentmere, ignoring the turning at the top of the pass onto the Green Quarter path that I had taken on my way up, and continued along the byway to Stile End taking the road from there back to Kentmere. This was an exhilarating walk in weather that was usually pleasantly calm, despite low cloud, even though the ground was horribly wet underfoot. It was most satisfying to have completed all the fells that I had set as my target for this holiday and still have another day left when I could do anything I wanted.