Friday 4th June 2021
I was not in a good state at the start of this walk following a poor night’s sleep that had left me really drained both physically and mentally. I don’t know why I was having difficulty sleeping, but what I needed was a great walk to revive me and fortunately that is what I got. After the cloud and drizzle of the day before the sun was now out again, so I decided to head down St. John’s in the Vale and climb Helvellyn. I have only once before walked down this valley between High Rigg and Clough Head, in 2003, when poor weather had made Clough Head undesirable. Now I walked through the grassy fields past sheep and cows under bright sunshine until I reached the start of the path over Sticks Pass, but soon came off the path to follow the fell wall until after passing the many waterfalls in Fisherplace Gill I reached a signpost that points towards many paths in many directions. I wanted to take the White Stones route up Helvellyn, but I had difficulty finding a path as it is not very clear where the route goes through the young bracken at this point. The Wainwright guides indicate I should have headed south from the signpost for fifty paces before starting the climb and eventually I did find a path that crosses the hillside leaving the bracken behind, though this was little more than a groove in the grass.
I was not in a good state at the start of this walk following a poor night’s sleep that had left me really drained both physically and mentally. I don’t know why I was having difficulty sleeping, but what I needed was a great walk to revive me and fortunately that is what I got. After the cloud and drizzle of the day before the sun was now out again, so I decided to head down St. John’s in the Vale and climb Helvellyn. I have only once before walked down this valley between High Rigg and Clough Head, in 2003, when poor weather had made Clough Head undesirable. Now I walked through the grassy fields past sheep and cows under bright sunshine until I reached the start of the path over Sticks Pass, but soon came off the path to follow the fell wall until after passing the many waterfalls in Fisherplace Gill I reached a signpost that points towards many paths in many directions. I wanted to take the White Stones route up Helvellyn, but I had difficulty finding a path as it is not very clear where the route goes through the young bracken at this point. The Wainwright guides indicate I should have headed south from the signpost for fifty paces before starting the climb and eventually I did find a path that crosses the hillside leaving the bracken behind, though this was little more than a groove in the grass.
Finally, after crossing Helvellyn Gill, I reached the very clear, paved path from Swirls that is now one of the most popular routes up the mountain and I was now no longer on my own as many people were climbing this path. Despite from the west being a very popular direction to climb Helvellyn from, I had never climbed from this direction before and I am not keen on doing it again as it is ridiculously steep, especially on this path. Even though I have climbed hundreds of mountains, I thought this was agonisingly steep and there are much better routes up Helvellyn as this way is just an unrelenting ascent all the way up to top of Browncove Crags. However, the view behind, looking over Thirlmere with Skiddaw in the distance, was stunning and always helped to alleviate the effort of the wearyingly steep climb all the way up to Browncove Crags. It wasn’t until the end of the day that I realised what was so good about the views on this climb: they were clear whereas throughout this holiday they had been hazy. The reason for this clarity was that it was cold, much colder than it had been earlier in the week, which prompted me to put on my windproof softshell and gloves once the gradient eased at the top of Browncove Crags.
When I reached the top of Helvellyn it was so packed with people I had wait for a while before I could get to the summit cairn to touch it, but the views were sensational and were especially gorgeous towards Ullswater, though my attention had already shifted towards Striding Edge. I have not traversed this narrow ridge since 2006 despite several attempts in recent years to do so. Therefore, I was surprised and distressed to discover badly eroded slopes leading down to the start of the ridge that I had no memory of previously, though this was the first time I was making the traverse in an easterly direction. After collapsing my poles I set off down the rocky terrain to the start of Striding Edge where I immediately discovered a problem: I was doing the traverse in the opposite direction to everyone else and there was a lot of everyone else. After passing over the Castle, I had to wait a long time while many people very slowly descended the rock chimney that is the most difficult point on the ridge. On two previous occasions that I have been over Striding Edge I have been able to avoid the crowds by going outside of peak times, but now I could only wait while people struggled to get down the rock chimney including one person who was trying to get down while holding a small dog.
When I reached the top of Helvellyn it was so packed with people I had wait for a while before I could get to the summit cairn to touch it, but the views were sensational and were especially gorgeous towards Ullswater, though my attention had already shifted towards Striding Edge. I have not traversed this narrow ridge since 2006 despite several attempts in recent years to do so. Therefore, I was surprised and distressed to discover badly eroded slopes leading down to the start of the ridge that I had no memory of previously, though this was the first time I was making the traverse in an easterly direction. After collapsing my poles I set off down the rocky terrain to the start of Striding Edge where I immediately discovered a problem: I was doing the traverse in the opposite direction to everyone else and there was a lot of everyone else. After passing over the Castle, I had to wait a long time while many people very slowly descended the rock chimney that is the most difficult point on the ridge. On two previous occasions that I have been over Striding Edge I have been able to avoid the crowds by going outside of peak times, but now I could only wait while people struggled to get down the rock chimney including one person who was trying to get down while holding a small dog.
There was such a long queue behind this person I eventually decided to try climbing beside the rock chimney and succeeded, but this just moved my waiting position to the top of the chimney rather than at the bottom as dozens of people slowly filed past. Eventually I was able to get past the queuing people and onto the top of the ridge, though I still often had to wait for people to pass as I made my way along the glorious ridge. Apart from the rock chimney, Striding Edge is not technically difficult and even the rock chimney is relatively tame and is only made more difficult by being a descent in the usual direction. As the crowds eased, I stayed at the top of the ridge striding confidently along the top. After passing over the summit of Striding Edge, known as High Spying How, I gradually descended the widening ridge to the Hole-in-the-Wall, but I did not go through as I continued along the ridge beside the wall to Birkhouse Moor. I visited this nondescript fell in 2006 and did so again before starting my descent into Glenridding beside Mires Beck, which is a path I had never taken before and I now had tremendous views into Patterdale and Glenridding as I took many photos while slowly descending. Looking towards Caudale Moor, I was reminded of my first night of this holiday spent camped near the top and was thankful that I now had good weather and was seeing the Lake District at its best.
When I eventually reached the bottom of the valley I immediately started climbing again onto Greenside Road, before branching onto the path that climbs steeply through bracken to the col between Glenridding Dodd and Sheffield Pike. Since I had climbed Glenridding Dodd in 2016, I ignored that and turned left to climb the south-east ridge of Sheffield Pike, which I had last descended at the beginning of 2009. There is a fabulous path that slowly climbs up a heather-covered ridge while behind me I had stunning views of Glenridding, but having already climbed Helvellyn on this walk I was now feeling rather tired. The interesting climb continued after the ridge ends with the path continuing across a broad, undulating terrain until eventually I reached the top of Sheffield Pike. A relatively short descent then brought me down to Nick Head where steep grassy slopes led me up to Glencoyne Head from where a featureless grassy ridge led me to the top of Hart Side. I climbed this fell in 2008 while hurrying to catch a bus in Threlkeld, which I missed. Now, I had the time and the weather to appreciate the broad grassy fell whose best feature was its distant views of the Pennines. I was amazed by the great views I was getting on this walk and I was enjoying every moment of it.
A long descent down broad grassy slopes brought me into Dowthwaitehead where I took a path that climbs over a low ridge before slowly descending through very wet ground onto the track known as the Old Coach Road. A long, but relaxing walk along this track took me across the northern slopes of Great Dodd and Clough Head until eventually I returned to St. John's in the Vale. This was an awesome, fantastic walk with views that were easily the best that I had enjoyed on this holiday. It was wonderful to finally be able to do Striding Edge again after such a long time and with such fabulous weather, this walk succeeded in lifting my spirits. There were many ups and downs on this holiday, but this walk was a definite highlight.
A long descent down broad grassy slopes brought me into Dowthwaitehead where I took a path that climbs over a low ridge before slowly descending through very wet ground onto the track known as the Old Coach Road. A long, but relaxing walk along this track took me across the northern slopes of Great Dodd and Clough Head until eventually I returned to St. John's in the Vale. This was an awesome, fantastic walk with views that were easily the best that I had enjoyed on this holiday. It was wonderful to finally be able to do Striding Edge again after such a long time and with such fabulous weather, this walk succeeded in lifting my spirits. There were many ups and downs on this holiday, but this walk was a definite highlight.
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