Primrose Hill Trail and Ben A’an

Thursday 21st April 2022

I spent the Easter weekend walking around the Arrochar Alps in the Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park before moving midweek across to the Trossachs to spend some time in an area that I had never visited before and I was happy to have several days to explore. I arrived the day before and stayed in the National Park campsite beside Loch Achray waking up in this tremendous location to find fabulous sunshine. Eagerly, I made my way straight back to the Trossachs Pier ignoring the meandering route of the Great Trossachs Path that I had been on the previous day to return to the tourist hub where I filled up my water bladder from the tap, which provoked some comment because the tap was new. I greatly appreciated the water and properly equipped for the warm weather I set off along the private road beside Loch Katrine. My aim was to climb Ben A’an and my map indicates that there is a path beside a wall from the shore of the reservoir, but despite going up and down the road several times I failed to find it. I think my map is out of date and this path no longer exists, however I did remember seeing a path the day before that heads uphill from Loch Katrine, so I walked further along the road and eventually I found a path marked by green ringed posts.

This does not go up Ben A’an and is actually a fabulous path called the Primrose Hill Trail that climbs through glorious woodland to a wide terrace path where I enjoyed great views across Loch Katrine while at my feet were the eponymous primroses, which I was fortunate to be seeing as I was walking at precisely the right time of year. The path was lined with primroses, violets and dandelions, which had an abundant number of peacock butterflies feeding on them. As I made my way along the wide path the views across Loch Latrine got better and better with the gentle gradient making this a pleasurable walk in the hazy sunshine. Initially the Arrochar Alps, where I had been a few days earlier, dominated the horizon, but as I made my way along the path the ridge line of Ben Lomond began to grab my attention. Eventually the trail starts to descend the hillside, zigzagging down through lovely woodland on an excellent path back onto the road and a short distance along the road brought me to Brenachoile Point.

A viewpoint has been installed at the end of this short promontory with a memorial to the many artists and poets who have been inspired by the beautiful landscape of the Trossachs, most notably Sir Walter Scott in his poem, “The Lady of the Lake”. I took advantage of some seats nearby to sit down and admire the view myself while having my lunch, though a brisk, cold wind was blowing across the loch. Walking back along the private road past the channel that brings water from Glen Finglas Reservoir, I returned to the Trossachs Pier and took some time to take in the bustling atmosphere before continuing along the public road to the car park for Ben A’an. After being thwarted in my attempts to take an unorthodox route up the hill, I set off along the popular path that climbs steeply up. Primroses decorated the landscape again along with wood anemones, but as I climbed the wind grew increasingly strong while ahead of me the prominent peak of Ben A’an seemed impregnable. Inexorably the path climbed steeply up slipping around the back to gain the airy, wind-swept summit where I was rewarded with fabulous views across Loch Katrine.

I enjoyed clambering around on the rocks at the summit, though I couldn’t help noticing that there is higher ground on the more tedious heather hillside a short distance away, which rather detracted from the experience for me. Ben A’an has been called a mountain in miniature as, although it is less than half the height of a Munro, the climb is so steep to a summit that has enough rock with far-reaching views while the peak stands out in the landscape so that it attracts the eye from all directions, it is no surprise why it appeals to the crowds. Tearing myself away from the peak I made my way back down the heavily manufactured path to the car park and with nowhere else to go I slowly walked back along the road to my campsite. I took advantage of the early finish to sit and enjoy the scenery in the sunshine looking across Loch Achray towards Ben A’an and after dinner I took a short walk up the hill that rises south of Loch Achray through the conifer plantation. I have wanted to visit the Trossachs for many years so I was glad to finally have this opportunity and I was blessed with good weather as well as loads of time to wander around and explore. I had planned to walk through the Trossachs in 2020 until lockdown hit and it was all cancelled, but I had not planned to stay long in the area then, so I am glad that I was now able to enjoy myself with no great hurry to head off somewhere else.