Offa’s Dyke Path: The Black Mountains to Capel-y-Ffin

Wednesday 24th August 2022

After four fabulous days’ walking in the Forest of Dean and the Wye Valley I left Cherry Orchard Farm campsite and drove to the Black Mountains, but between Monmouth and Abergavenny it started to rain so heavily I thought I would not be able to walk in the mountains. However, before I reached Abergavenny it stopped raining, so I turned right at the large roundabout outside Abergavenny and eventually parked at the car park beside the Queen’s Head Inn. This reminded me of parking beside the Dragons Back Inn (now Dinas Castle Inn) in 2019 on the western edge of the Black Mountains, and there is a similar arrangement here where walkers can park beside the inn for a small fee. After donning my waterproofs against the wet weather I set off along quiet lanes, but soon I took off my waterproofs as the weather slowly improved with stunning views behind me that were dominated by the Skirrid, Ysgwyryd Fawr. I was now on the route of the Offa’s Dyke Path again that I had followed earlier in my holiday as far as Monmouth where it was abandoned so I could explore the Wye Valley. Where the Offa’s Dyke Path leaves the nondescript landscape between Monmouth and Pandy I resumed the trail as it begins to climb into the Black Mountains.

I have a lot of affection for the Black Mountains as it is where I did some of my earliest hill walking and it was fabulous to be back. Slowly, I climbed the path that took me through dense bracken past the remains of an Iron Age fort, through a band of gorse and up onto the heather-clad moorland. Despite walking in the Black Mountains on many occasions, I can remember being at this point only once before on the day after my first walk in the area, back in 1999, and that was for a much shorter walk. Now, I passed by my first trig point of the day and then over Hatterrall Hill from where I had great views up and the valley and along the ridge, and in the distance I could see rain, which prompted me to put on my waterproofs, but in the end it missed me and passed to the north. In the valley to my left I could see the ruins of Llanthony Priory, which is where I had parked last time I was in the Black Mountains, in 2020 for the only hill walk that I did that year. With the English border now following the top of the ridge I passed another trig point and reached the 605m top where a path from Llanthony comes in that was the route I took down in 2020, so now I retraced my steps of that walk along the clear flagstone path. I had planned to keep going along the Offa’s Dyke Path all the way to the northern edge of the Black Mountains on Hay Bluff, but eventually I decided that was too far away and that I would descend into the valley at Capel-y-Ffin.

After passing a third trig point on this broad ridge I eventually reached the crossroads where I turned towards Capel-y-Ffin and when it soon after started to rain I took that to be confirmation that I had made the right decision. My waterproofs came back on and came in handy while passing through thick, water-laden bracken on the path down into Capel-y-Ffin. I have many happy memories of this path and relished the views down the textbook glacial valley even though the weather was not great. When I reached the woodland I stopped to have my lunch and cool down before continuing the descent and finally reach a farmer’s road. Not long after joining that I was stopped by a man who wanted to air his views on the environmental damage of mobile phone masts and for some reason I let him talk for more than half an hour. When he eventually left I was able to take off my waterproofs as the sun had come out while he was talking. I turned left at the Nant y Ffin to reach the bottom of the valley and the road where I climbed past farm buildings up to the open country on the side of the ridge opposite the Offa’s Dyke Path. Turning left I followed a path that keeps just above the fence on a route that I previously took in 2000, though I have little memory of it.

The path took me through thick groves of bracken and seemed endless so that on several occasions I lost all trace of how far I had travelled down the valley, which prompted me to check my location, until eventually the path began to climb towards the top of the ridge up a great rocky terrace. After passing around a cove above Ty-cwm I emerged onto the top of the hill onto terrain was now rather flat and tedious, but through swathes of purple heather that decorated the moor. Eventually I reached the crossing of Bâl Bach where I have been several times before, most recently in 2020, but never before had I been to the hills south of the crossing, so now I kept going through the heather to the prominent cairn on Garn Wen and down the narrowing ridge. Unfortunately the ridge was not narrow enough or steep enough to be exciting and the vegetation was not particularly interesting being mainly bracken and young trees. Slowly I made my way along the ridge that seemed to merely prolonging my descent, until eventually I reached a road that delivered me back down to my car. The weather was very mixed on this walk being generally very warm but with bands of rain and some rain merely threatened by dark clouds or in the distance. It was great to be back in the Black Mountains and striding along those ridges again swallowing up the miles and passing through moorland covered in the purple flowers of heather. My primary motivation in doing the Offa’s Dyke Path was to return to the Black Mountains and despite the poor weather I wasn’t disappointed.

The Forest of Dean

Tuesday 23rd August 2022

With a day to spare in the Forest of Dean and Wye Valley before continuing my trek along Offa’s Dyke Path I thought I would revisit the walk that I did in the Forest of Dean at Christmas 2011. This was the only time I had previously been in the area and since it was not at its best then, being mid-winter, I thought a return was worthwhile. A short drive from Cherry Orchard Farm campsite took me through Coleford to the car park near Speech House Hotel where I had parked previously. The drizzly rain that had plagued my previous day’s walk was in evidence again as I left my car and copying my walk of 2011 I headed down the straight avenue of Spruce Ride. The rain soon stopped and after a short distance along the forestry track I came to Speech House Lake, which I remembered seeing on my previous walk. Continuing along Spruce Ride I passed the crossroads formed by an old railway line, now a cycle track, and onto a good all-weather path where previously I remember the ground was very muddy. My 2011 route climbed steeply up to Staple-edge Bungalows, but this time I decided to turn right at the foot of the climb and follow the bottom of the valley, which I found relaxing walking with clear views up and down the valley that included young deciduous trees and a hint of blue sky above.

At the bottom of the path I reached Mallards Pike Lake, which was a lovely place for me to slowly wander around while the sun began to break through the clouds and provided me with good pictures across the lake. Going into this holiday I was feeling very stressed and tired, and it was taking me a while to recover so on this walk I wanted to further that goal by taking my time and absorbing the natural surroundings as much as possible. Standing beside this lake in the sunshine with the trees surrounding I felt the tension slowly unwind from within me. Leaving Mallards Pike Lake I returned to my 2011 route and crossed a road into an area that previously I remembered having few trees, but was now more overgrown, though this robbed me of some of the views. After crossing a road I reached a narrower, more natural, path that was much nicer to walk on than the bulldozed forestry tracks of earlier, but soon I reached another road and after a short walk along the road opposite I reached a turning onto a cycle path that I had taken previously. However, this time I ignored it so I could find something that my map called New Fancy View. At a car park I turned off the road and onto a path that climbed to a viewpoint where I had extensive views across the Forest of Dean.

The sun had been hiding since I left Mallards Pike Lake, but it now reappeared to provide me with beautiful views across the woodland. It was interesting for me to learn that this was the site of New Fancy coal mine and the viewpoint is at the top of the old spoil heap, which I would never have guessed. Returning back down to the car park I made my way to the cycle path and followed that for a while until eventually I reached the southern end of Cannop Ponds. My onward route was north, but soon I decided that I wanted to turn around so I could take in the view from right at the foot of the pond. Eventually I headed north again and followed the shore of the pond until I reached a picnic site between the two ponds where I stopped to have my lunch while the weather varied from rain to sunshine. With the sun shining again and affording me with good views across Upper Cannop Pond I crossed the dam and headed up a narrow path that climbs steeply up the hillside. Since reaching Cannop Ponds I was on the route of the Beechenhurst Trail with posts that marked the route for me, although on occasions they failed and I was left scratching my head as to the direction to take.

After crossing Speech House Road the trail passed into open woodland and completely disappeared. It should have been easy for me to follow as the trail at this point keeps to a right-of-way, but this was also not well signposted so I had to keep checking my location to ensure I was going in the right direction. At one point I missed my turning and had to retrace my steps, but eventually I found my way down to Cannop Brook, past the route of an old railway line, now a cycle path, and up towards the large Beechenhurst car park where large numbers of people were following a Sculpture Trail. Since it was only two o’clock and my walk was almost finished I decided to do the Sculpture Trail myself, so with the leaflet downloaded on my phone I set off along the well signposted trail back up the hill. However, I had a lot of difficulty finding the first sculpture and there were one or two others that also seemed to be either missing or so well blended into the environment that I couldn’t see them. Slowly I made my way around the trail and even though most of the sculptures held no interest for me the trail at least took me through areas of the Forest of Dean that I had not previously seen and the most interesting sculptures were those that hinted something about the industrial past of the area, which is usually very well hidden unless you are told.

The most remarkable sculpture was near the end of the trail, called Cathedral, and featured a large stained glass window hanging from posts in the middle of the wood. After passing the final sculpture I rejoined the route of the Beechenhurst Trail and entered Cyril Hart Arboretum, which contains a vast collection of different trees and was a joy to walk through, so I wish that I had stopped and spent some time exploring the area but instead I passed through and returned to the car park. This was an enjoyable and relaxing walk through wonderful woodland that provided me with exactly the medicine I needed to refresh my spirit. The Beechenhurst Trail is too short for me, so I had extended it using my 2011 walk and even then it was too short, but with the addition of the Sculpture Trail I had a fabulous walk through the Forest of Dean.

Offa's Dyke Path to Monmouth and the Wye Valley

Monday 22nd August 2022

On the third day of my holiday I left Cherry Orchard Farm, where I was camping, and walked down the road back onto the Offa’s Dyke Path. Up to this point, the trail had kept to the English side of the Wye Valley, but at Redbrook the border turns east and so for the first time the Offa’s Dyke Path crosses into God’s own country, Wales. From the road I had a steep climb up a narrow path that bought me the point where I had previously left the trail with the ascent continuing on a farmer’s track past Upper Beaulieu Farm until eventually the gradient eased. The threatened rain held off, which I was thankful for since I didn’t want to be wearing waterproofs while climbing in the warm weather. The views behind me were hazy and poor, so I kept my eyes ahead of me and eventually I reached the top of the Kymin where there is a monument to the Royal Navy, the Naval Temple was built to celebrate the naval victories of the Napoleonic Wars. A short distance from there is the Kymin Round House where there are picturesque views east past the town of Monmouth, but the weather was not helping me as the views very hazy and disappointing.

From the Kymin a fabulous, sunken path descended through Beaulieu Wood and continues down quiet lanes and through orchards to emerge beside a road that took me over the River Wye and into the town of Monmouth. After crossing the Wye and passing under the A40 road I walked through the narrow streets of Monmouth as far as the famed thirteenth century fortified bridge over the River Monnow that is the only one of its kind left in Britain. I have passed through Monmouth many times on my way to the Brecon Beacons, but I had never stopped before, so I was enjoying the opportunity now to spend some time there exploring the town. Beside the Church of St Thomas the Martyr I turned around and crossed the Monnow Bridge again. After Monmouth, the Offa’s Dyke Path passes through a landscape of small fields and minor valleys that did not appeal to me until it reaches the Brecon Beacons National Park, and so, because I could, I abandoned the trail, for now, and headed back through Monmouth to enjoy more of the delights of the Wye Valley. When I reached the river I turned left to follow the route of the Wye Valley Walk and soon I reached St Peter’s Church, Dixton, where a noticeboard mentioned that the church is frequently flooded.

Intrigued, I turned off the path to enter the building and examine the markers beside the pulpit that show how high the floodwaters have reached with one of the highest being from early 2020. I enjoyed having the luxury of being able to explore this church, whereas if I was doing the whole of the Offa’s Dyke Path and needed to complete twenty miles in one day, I wouldn’t have the time for diversions such as this. Further along the path, the valley closed in as the terrain became quite delightful with trees lining each side. Until recently this section of the Wye Valley Walk was closed due to a landslide so I was happy to discover that the path was now open and the point where repairs were necessary was clear to see, where the river turns sharply below steep ground. The path continued through gorgeous woodland scenery while the river passed through the beautiful Upper Wye Gorge and I had a lovely and relaxing walk as the sun tried to break through the clouds, but ultimately it failed and the rest of the day was cloudy. On reaching Biblins Adventure Centre I crossed the wire bridge over the River Wye and on the far bank I stopped to have my lunch.

Continuing along the Wye Valley Walk I followed the course of an old railway, which provided me with a wide track to walk upon past the rapids on the river until eventually I reached the tourist filled developments around Symonds Yat. I previously passed through this area at Christmas 2011 in very poor weather and although it was now much warmer and not so wet, the views were not much better. Keeping to the Wye Valley Walk, I passed the crowds keeping to the side of the river before climbing into the woodland that lines Huntsman Hill. After coming off a track this path is deliciously narrow and tricky in places as it negotiates large, fallen boulders and passes ruined houses before reaching the intact Huntsman’s Cottage where it climbs up the side of the hill. Below Symonds Yat Rock I parted company with the Wye Valley Walk and climbed up to a road, ignoring the rain as I made my way up to the viewpoint on top of Symonds Yat Rock. The rain had been short-lived, but I was very hot from the steep climb so I took my cagoule off and wondered why the weather had to be almost as unkind to me as it had been eleven years before. From there I headed along the top of the rocks to an alternative viewpoint above Coldwell Rocks, but this was more overgrown and not so good.

Turning my back on the Wye Valley I took a path that headed into the woods on a trail marked as Christchurch to Symonds Yat Rock Walk, which I hoped would lead me back towards my campsite even though I wasn’t really in a hurry to get back. I had not been hurrying all day and now I just meandered along the trail through the woodland as the skies tried unsuccessfully to rain. On the outskirts of Christchurch I turned west towards Bracelands Adventure Centre and Campsite where I somehow managed to miss my turning and when I finally checked my location I discovered that I was heading north instead of south, which prompted a hasty turn around back to where I should have turned. When walking through woodland, all you can see are trees, so it is difficult to navigate and you are reliant on the path and signposts, but this one was not clear. Eventually I reached the village of Staunton where I found a path that took me through more woodland, past a limestone quarry and back to Cherry Orchard Farm. The weather was not good on this walk with occasional, though light, rain and overcast skies all day, which spoilt the views, but it was great to be walking all day following the River Wye through stunning scenery.

Offa’s Dyke Path: Brockweir to Redbrook

Sunday 21st August 2022

After spending the night at Cherry Orchard Farm, I set off from the campsite down the road towards the Wye Valley, however, when I became fed up of the road walking I turned onto a track that heads up the side of the hill and onto the course of an old railway. This led me into a delightfully overgrown wood, but all too soon I had to come back down onto the road and eventually I reached the village of Redbrook at the bottom of the Wye Valley, There, I picked up the route of the Wye Valley Walk and headed south under overcast skies, which was a little disappointing after the sunshine of the day before. There were times during the day when the skies darkened and it looked like it was going to rain, but it never did, and there were times when it looked like the sun was going to break through the clouds, but it never did. It was still warm and I really didn’t want to be putting on waterproofs, so I was quite happy with the weather as it was. The route of the Wye Valley Walk at this point follows the course of the old railway line and soon crosses the river into Wales where I stayed on the western bank for a relaxing walk through fabulous woodland until I was near the village of Whitebrook. At that point, the Wye Valley Walk leaves the riverside to climb into Cuckoo Wood, whereas I stayed beside the river with farmer’s fields to my right until I reached Bigsweir Bridge.

Upon crossing Bigsweir Bridge, back into England, I came across a sign for the Offa’s Dyke Path, which directed me onto the alternative riverside route that allowed me to stay beside the river for a varied walk with interesting views including the many houses of Llandogo that decorate the western slopes of the valley until finally I reached Brockweir where I had left the Offa’s Dyke Path the day before. Going into this holiday I was very tired and it was taking me awhile to recover, and I was feeling particularly drained of energy on this section leading into Brockweir but I managed to drag myself along the path and reached the bridge where rather than immediately starting the Offa’s Dyke Path I crossed it, back into Wales, and returned to the Old Station at Tintern, which I had passed through the day before and now I stopped there to have my lunch and a rest. While eating the sun was most successful in breaking through the clouds, but it didn’t last and soon it was overcast again as I returned to Brockweir, back into England, and retraced my steps of the day before, but to prevent unnecessary climbing I turned off the track onto a gloriously overgrown path that keeps beside the Brockweir stream.

Large clusters of the red berries of rowan trees decorated the path and made the diversion that led me back to the Offa’s Dyke Path worthwhile. After crossing the stream a relentless climb along the narrow lanes, tracks and enclosed paths of St. Briavels Common had me sweating profusely as I slowly climbed up to the top of the hill. With no view and no wind to cool me down I was greatly relieved when I finally reached the top and passed through the Hudnalls where I was able to get some vitamin C from the bramble bushes before reaching what appeared to be the top of a cliff-face. A fence directed me right across a boardwalk and then left steeply down through woodland that would have benefited from a view into the Wye Valley, but all I could see were trees and some of those trees had fallen onto the path, which made route-finding difficult, but eventually I emerged from the trees and now, finally, I had a glorious view that revealed the Wye Valley before me and patches of blue sky overhead, though with no sign of the sun.

Soon after this point I managed to lose the path and reached a gate that was clearly not on the Offa’s Dyke Path, so I retraced my steps back up the hill but even when I found what the map claimed was the correct gate, I still could not see any mention of the Offa’s Dyke Path. Confident that I was on the right path, I kept going and reached a National Trail marked signpost that directed me to Bigsweir Bridge, which I had crossed earlier in the day. Now the riverside alternative rejoined the main route and I headed up a busy road before turning left onto a pleasant path through woodland to reach a section of the ancient Offa’s Dyke that lends its name to the long distance trail that I was walking. There now followed an extended stretch of woodland walking through Bigsweir Wood, Cadora Woods and Highbury Wood Nature Reserves, and I couldn’t help thinking that I was not doing this walk at the best time of the year as these woods must look fabulous in the spring when wild flowers are putting on a tremendous display. Nevertheless, even in late summer I had a great walk through these woods and particularly in Highbury Wood where I was walking beside a clear escarpment edge and part of the remains of Offa’s Dyke.

It was great to be walking along this ancient earthwork, but soon I left it behind and I would not be reacquainted with it for many miles. On coming out of the wood I was confronted by a view of the Wye Valley that actually improved as I descended when the old railway bridge came into view, which I had used to cross the river at the beginning of the day. On reaching the village of Redbrook I turned uphill and wearily realised that since I was camped at the top of a hill I would have to climb to get back up there. Leaving the Offa’s Dyke Path just above Upper Redbrook I took a footpath that climbs through uninteresting farmland to the village of Newland and finally returned to my campsite. Despite generally overcast weather on this walk it was warm, which most of the time made for good walking, but didn’t help me keep cool when climbing uphill. The hot summer had left me very tired going into this holiday and now I had just walked for over eight hours, which I had not done since I was on the Isle of Skye at the beginning of June, but there is nothing better for refreshing both mind and body than getting out in the wild. An eight hour walk is the cure for many of my ills and with two week’s walking on this holiday ahead of me I would soon be refreshed.