Offa's Dyke Path to Monmouth and the Wye Valley

Monday 22nd August 2022

On the third day of my holiday I left Cherry Orchard Farm, where I was camping, and walked down the road back onto the Offa’s Dyke Path. Up to this point, the trail had kept to the English side of the Wye Valley, but at Redbrook the border turns east and so for the first time the Offa’s Dyke Path crosses into God’s own country, Wales. From the road I had a steep climb up a narrow path that bought me the point where I had previously left the trail with the ascent continuing on a farmer’s track past Upper Beaulieu Farm until eventually the gradient eased. The threatened rain held off, which I was thankful for since I didn’t want to be wearing waterproofs while climbing in the warm weather. The views behind me were hazy and poor, so I kept my eyes ahead of me and eventually I reached the top of the Kymin where there is a monument to the Royal Navy, the Naval Temple was built to celebrate the naval victories of the Napoleonic Wars. A short distance from there is the Kymin Round House where there are picturesque views east past the town of Monmouth, but the weather was not helping me as the views very hazy and disappointing.

From the Kymin a fabulous, sunken path descended through Beaulieu Wood and continues down quiet lanes and through orchards to emerge beside a road that took me over the River Wye and into the town of Monmouth. After crossing the Wye and passing under the A40 road I walked through the narrow streets of Monmouth as far as the famed thirteenth century fortified bridge over the River Monnow that is the only one of its kind left in Britain. I have passed through Monmouth many times on my way to the Brecon Beacons, but I had never stopped before, so I was enjoying the opportunity now to spend some time there exploring the town. Beside the Church of St Thomas the Martyr I turned around and crossed the Monnow Bridge again. After Monmouth, the Offa’s Dyke Path passes through a landscape of small fields and minor valleys that did not appeal to me until it reaches the Brecon Beacons National Park, and so, because I could, I abandoned the trail, for now, and headed back through Monmouth to enjoy more of the delights of the Wye Valley. When I reached the river I turned left to follow the route of the Wye Valley Walk and soon I reached St Peter’s Church, Dixton, where a noticeboard mentioned that the church is frequently flooded.

Intrigued, I turned off the path to enter the building and examine the markers beside the pulpit that show how high the floodwaters have reached with one of the highest being from early 2020. I enjoyed having the luxury of being able to explore this church, whereas if I was doing the whole of the Offa’s Dyke Path and needed to complete twenty miles in one day, I wouldn’t have the time for diversions such as this. Further along the path, the valley closed in as the terrain became quite delightful with trees lining each side. Until recently this section of the Wye Valley Walk was closed due to a landslide so I was happy to discover that the path was now open and the point where repairs were necessary was clear to see, where the river turns sharply below steep ground. The path continued through gorgeous woodland scenery while the river passed through the beautiful Upper Wye Gorge and I had a lovely and relaxing walk as the sun tried to break through the clouds, but ultimately it failed and the rest of the day was cloudy. On reaching Biblins Adventure Centre I crossed the wire bridge over the River Wye and on the far bank I stopped to have my lunch.

Continuing along the Wye Valley Walk I followed the course of an old railway, which provided me with a wide track to walk upon past the rapids on the river until eventually I reached the tourist filled developments around Symonds Yat. I previously passed through this area at Christmas 2011 in very poor weather and although it was now much warmer and not so wet, the views were not much better. Keeping to the Wye Valley Walk, I passed the crowds keeping to the side of the river before climbing into the woodland that lines Huntsman Hill. After coming off a track this path is deliciously narrow and tricky in places as it negotiates large, fallen boulders and passes ruined houses before reaching the intact Huntsman’s Cottage where it climbs up the side of the hill. Below Symonds Yat Rock I parted company with the Wye Valley Walk and climbed up to a road, ignoring the rain as I made my way up to the viewpoint on top of Symonds Yat Rock. The rain had been short-lived, but I was very hot from the steep climb so I took my cagoule off and wondered why the weather had to be almost as unkind to me as it had been eleven years before. From there I headed along the top of the rocks to an alternative viewpoint above Coldwell Rocks, but this was more overgrown and not so good.

Turning my back on the Wye Valley I took a path that headed into the woods on a trail marked as Christchurch to Symonds Yat Rock Walk, which I hoped would lead me back towards my campsite even though I wasn’t really in a hurry to get back. I had not been hurrying all day and now I just meandered along the trail through the woodland as the skies tried unsuccessfully to rain. On the outskirts of Christchurch I turned west towards Bracelands Adventure Centre and Campsite where I somehow managed to miss my turning and when I finally checked my location I discovered that I was heading north instead of south, which prompted a hasty turn around back to where I should have turned. When walking through woodland, all you can see are trees, so it is difficult to navigate and you are reliant on the path and signposts, but this one was not clear. Eventually I reached the village of Staunton where I found a path that took me through more woodland, past a limestone quarry and back to Cherry Orchard Farm. The weather was not good on this walk with occasional, though light, rain and overcast skies all day, which spoilt the views, but it was great to be walking all day following the River Wye through stunning scenery.