Southern Upland Way: Clatteringshaws Loch

Wednesday 24th May 2023

On my fourth day on the Southern Upland Way I set off from the White Laggan Bothy, where I had spent the night with a load of other walkers, and headed down the hill back onto the trail enjoying some fantastic weather that was possibly even hotter than it had ben earlier in the week. I was following a wide forestry track for several hours, which could be considered dull and uninteresting, but the views across the broad bowl of Loch Dee and the surrounding Galloway Hills looked gorgeous, rivalling anything to be found in the Highlands. After crossing the River Dee, also known as the Black Water, I no longer had the far-reaching views of Loch Dee so the walk now became less interesting as I slowly headed along the track through a conifer plantation until I reached the shores of Clatteringshaws Loch. I knew that there is a secret hoard in this area, marked by a sculptured kist, one of many hidden along the Southern Upland Way, so I started to look around, and even returned to the shore when I was unable to find the kist later one. Unfortunately the area looked like it had been trashed with litter everywhere, trampled bluebells and many burn marks, but I could not find the hoard, though I was able to get down to the shore of the loch and take some pictures.

Eventually I reluctantly decided that I had wasted too much time looking for the kist, so, disappointed, I returned to the track and followed it, now heading north. Soon, I reached a road and after a short distance along the road, back west, I turned north again uphill along a grassy path through an area of felled conifers steadily climbing towards the Rhinns of Kells. At the stream, Hog Park Strand, I came across the word “ultreia” on a trail post, which indicates that the hidden hoard was actually not far ahead of me along the trail, so all my hunting around beside Clatteringshaws Loch had been a waste of time. Keeping my eyes peeled, I slowly made my way along the trail, past the marked trail post, and carefully looked out for the kist that marks the location of the hoard. After crossing a fence I left the conifer plantation behind and followed the path onto the open hillside and soon reached another trail post with “ultreia” on the other side, which meant I had failed to find the kist. Frustrated, I took my rucksack off and retraced my steps looking everywhere for the hidden hoard, but after a long search I could not find anything. Eventually I had to give up and concede that I was not going to find the Craigenbay Hoard.

The path continued to climb across the grassy hillside, decorated with the small yellow flowers of tormentil, until I passed by some rocky outcrops and crossed over the ridge. Now I descended into the valley of the Garroch Burn where I picked up a track that took me onto the road and through the valley. The tedious road walking improved when the road entered the delightful mixed deciduous woodland of Hannaston Wood, which was a pleasure to walk through and filled with wild flowers including bluebells, stitchwort and wild garlic. Eventually I crossed the burn and climbed up Waterside Hill, but the sunshine that I had enjoyed during the morning had now been smothered by cloud. Nevertheless, this was a fun little climb up a hill that was reminiscent of the smaller fells of the Lake District and at the top was revealed the valley of the Water of Ken with the village of St John’s Town of Dalry nestled by the river. This was the first village that I had seen since the start of my walk on Monday and my first chance to restock since then. When I reached the village, across the footbridge, I made use of their facilities and, as I was coming out a chap was coming out of the adjacent town hall, and he kindly offered to let me put up my tent in the grounds, but I was keen to push on.

My original schedule would have seen me spend the night in Dalry, so his offer would have been ideal, however I had been running a couple of hours ahead of schedule since Monday so I thought it was too early to stop, despite the chap warning me that there is nowhere to camp for eight or nine miles along the trail.With hindsight I wish I had taken his offer, but I didn’t want to lose the benefit I had gained in time, so after buying some supplies I set off up the road and soon I was onto the sheep-filled fields that I had been warned about. After about three miles I reached the Earlstoun Burn which I thought was a perfect place to camp, between the stream and a conifer plantation, away from the sheep, so I stopped and put up my tent despite it still being quite early. This was a lovely spot, beside the wall, looking out across the stream and I was enjoying the sunshine that had now appeared which revealed a glorious evening. This was a very mixed day with some definite highlights, but also some negative moments. I need to dwell on the highlights and rejoice in the variety. I had a relaxing stroll along the forestry tracks, and through Garroch Glen, while Hannaston Wood was fabulous and the climb over Waterside Hill was fantastic. Now that I was on my fourth day on the trail I was starting to get used to the daily grind of walking long distances every day and I still had a lot more to come.

Unfortunately, my day didn’t end there. While reviewing my next day later in the evening, I realised that I had made an error with my provisions which meant that I didn’t have any food for my evening meal the next day. I had planned to resupply in Sanquhar, but that was twenty-four miles away, after my planned overnight stop. Because of the evening sunshine, I decided that my best option was to break camp, leaving my gorgeous camp location, and walk along the trail for an hour or two before stopping at sunset. Therefore I left the wonderful Earlstoun Burn, which had nourished me for a couple of hours, and set off again along the Southern Upland Way across wide grassy moorland, leaving the Galloway Hills far behind me, while ahead of me were the Carshairn Hills. There was little trace of a path and sometimes was rather boggy, including at one point when I lost my balance and put my foot into the bog. So it was with a wet, mud-covered leg that I continued along the faint path trying to find my way. Eventually I reached a road and followed this to the Black Water burn where there were some good places to camp, but I kept going and climbed up over Marskaig Hill and Culmark Hill, where it was difficult for me to find the path across. After reaching the access road for Culmark with the sun now getting very low in the sky, I was desperate to stop so I crossed the Carroch Lane burn and put up my tent beside Blackmark Plantation, but this was a disastrous place to stop as it was infested with midges.