Sca Fell and Scafell Pike

Tuesday 25th August 2026

I was supposed to be walking along the Coast to Coast Path on this holiday, however, on entering the Lake District I couldn’t resist diverting off the trail to have a bit of fun in that wonderful playground for hillwalkers. So, at the beginning of this day I was in Eskdale, nowhere near the Coast to Coast Path, and the weather was good, though maybe not as warm as the day before, but still sunny and I wanted to repeat a walk that I made on my first ever visit to the Lake District, back in 2002, which involves crossing the two highest mountains in England, Sca Fell and Scafell Pike. I set off from the youth hostel and, after a short walk along the road through Eskdale, at a car park I turned off onto a footpath that took me past bracken and granite outcrops slowly climbing along what is known as the Terrace Route up Scafell. I know from experience that this is a long ascent, better suited for descent, especially in good weather, so this is actually the first time I have made the ascent since 2002, and the last time I did the Terrace Route in descent was back in 2011. I was quite prepared for a long ascent and savoured the early stages of the path as it weaved through the complex, boggy terrain until eventually, after crossing Catcove Beck, the ascent eased. The walking was now more tedious, but the craggy hill of Slight Side ahead of me with the bulk of Scafell lurking behind was enough to motivate my onward progress and soon I was ascending again while a cold wind began to make itself felt.

As the terrain steepened the rather sketchy path took me into an increasingly stony landscape dominated by the outcrops at the top of Slight Side, which provided me with a short, satisfying scramble to the summit of the fell. The sunshine that had started the day was now smothered by cloud leaving me feeling cold as I made my way across the broad, stony ridge that separates Slight Side from Scafell with a steep, mountainous climb to follow, which just brought me to the ridge of Long Green. The mountain was teasing me, forcing me to work hard for the achievement of reaching the summit of this awesome mountain and it was only after another steep climb that I reached the summit of Scafell. After lunch I made my way across the top towards Scafell Pike, which can easily be seen but the cliff face of Broad Stand is an unseen barrier to the walker in that direction, so the public footpath turns right at a col to head down a treacherously slippery scree slope. This was a very difficult descent and when I finally reached the vanishingly small Foxes Tarn my troubles were not over because now I had to scramble down a stony gully that was made even more interesting by having water in it and an abundance of slippery moss lower down. When I finally reached the bottom I was faced with a steep climb back up a scree slope, though it is easier ascending scree because it is not so slippery, and this brought me to the dramatic, narrow ridge of Mickledore with the impressive rock face of Broad Stand on one side and the long, rock-covered slopes on the other that would eventually lead me to Scafell Pike.

It is a long time since I have made the traverse between these two mountains, not since 2011, and on that occasion I took the only other possible route, Lord’s Rake, which is even more treacherous and difficult. The last time I did the Foxes Tarn route was in 2005 so I was keen to do so again, but I am not now so eager to do it again. It must be one of the toughest rights-of-way in the Lake District, if not in the whole country. As I made my way across the loose boulders that litter the mountain, heading towards the summit of Scafell Pike, I was astonished by the huge numbers of people coming up the path from Lingmell Col. I had hardly seen anyone all day, including at the top of Scafell, but, reluctantly, I joined them to reach the crowded summit of Scafell Pike, where I didn’t stay long and immediately headed down to Broadcrag Col. It had been intention to keep following my 2002 route past Broad Crag and Ill Crag to Esk Hause, but when I thought about it I decided it wasn’t worth it, so when I reached the col I turned left to descend the scree with a lot of people ahead of me who slowed my descent. When I finally got past them I skipped onto the Corridor Route, which was also very busy, but still a fabulous path and eventually I reached Sty Head where I considered diverting to bag Seathwaite Fell, until I came to my senses. The clear path north from Sty Head Tarn keeps to the left bank of Styhead Gill and then crosses the stream on a bridge, however, the map indicates that there is a path staying on the left bank, but when I tried to follow it there was no sign of it, just marshy ground.

After getting my feet wet the faint path eventually appeared, which led me to the stunning surroundings beside Taylorgill Force. Amongst spectacular views of the waterfall there is an exciting scramble across the rocks, which, for someone like me who had just experienced the scrambling down from Foxes Tarn, was easy. This tricky descent continued as I turned into the main valley with bogs now becoming more of a problem until I finally reached Seathwaite Farm. A route from Seathwaite to Borrowdale, which I have taken many times before and first in 2002, led me across fields to the road in Borrowdale, over the river and astonishingly back onto the Coast to Coast Path. This was an epic, challenging walk that was very difficult in places, but I thoroughly enjoyed it. This is not the sort of walking that you find on the Coast to Coast Path and was all the better for it. These are great mountains, but the best of the best has to be Sca Fell, which is all the better for being neglected by all the ignorant tourists climbing the other mountain, simply because it is slightly higher!

The High Level Traverse and Illgill Head

Monday 24th August 2026

This was my second day on the Coast to Coast Path during which I should have walked along Ennerdale, up Sail Beck to Honister Hause and then down into Borrowdale, however, I was in the Lake District and I didn’t want to waste the opportunity to deviate from the prescribed route and enjoy myself for a while since I don’t come to the Lake District as much as I would like. Rather than heading east I headed south to Eskdale and then the following day north to reach Borrowdale in two days rather than what would have taken me only half a day on the Coast to Coast. Initially I did keep to the trail along the track that runs through the spectacular valley of Ennerdale until I reached a junction where a turning to the right took me across the river. Maps indicate a path climbing the southern bank through the trees starting near the bridge, but there was hardly any sign on the ground and when I did find a path it was waterlogged and very difficult to follow. It may have been easier to follow twenty years ago when I ascended this way, but now the trees have closed in on the path. Wainwright and his subsequent editors have never recommended this path, but instead one that starts from the Memorial Bridge or beside Pillarcove Beck. Perhaps they would have been easier. Eventually the path became drier underfoot and I reached the fence that led me out of the plantation and onto the steep hillside with the iconic pillar rock towering above me and a clear path climbing beside the stream.

As I slowly climbed the steep side of Pillar below awesome rocks the path faded away and I wandered away from the stream, so I had to correct my ascent, back to the side of the stream and eventually I reached an outcrop where I found the clear path that comes down the top of Pillar via the Shamrock Traverse. I had planned to cross the traverse and reach Pillar, but in the end I decided it wasn’t worth it and I would much rather turn left towards Robinson’s Cairn and the High Level Traverse, and soon I reached the prominent column of stones. There is a dedication plaque beside the cairn to John Wilson Robinson, a pioneer fellwalker and rock climber, though I couldn’t remember seeing it before so this time I had a good look around and eventually I found it affixed to an outcrop facing the pillar rock. After taking loads of pictures I set off along the high level route that traverses the side of Pillar, which had frustrated me for many years until I finally completed it in good weather in 2023 and now I was going in the opposite direction. The path began well, running across the foot of the crags below the eastern ridge of Pillar, but it later became very sketchy with some scrambling required that makes it quite a tricky path, so good weather is a must for it. It was very satisfying for me to do the High Level Traverse again, because it is clearly not overly subscribed, so I tried to linger and remind myself that I was amongst the awesome surroundings of one of the great paths of the Lake District, though the views up and down Ennerdale were rather murky. 

All too soon I reached the tricky exit that brought me onto the main path coming down from Pillar. After taking in the viewpoint at the top of Looking Stead I tried to find a path that is not marked on Ordnance Survey maps and descends steeply from Looking Stead to the Black Sail Pass path without having to go through the pass itself. There are many paths in the Lake District that have been created in recent decades by fellrunners cutting corners and most are of poor quality, so I was wary of this new path for me, but after an initial steepness it was good, and in fact it was marked on the earliest editions of Wainwright’s guidebooks. Eventually it brought me onto the clear path from Black Sail Pass, which led me into Mosedale and ultimately to Wasdale Head. It was very relaxing for me to disengage my brain and allow my footsteps to take me across the valley, while ignoring all the distracting human activity around me with only the bright red berries of rowan attracting my notice. Eventually I started to climb towards Burnmoor Tarn, but with still most of the afternoon free I was reminded of a walk I did in 2016, also from Ennerdale to Eskdale, when faced with this situation I had ignored, or not noticed, the turning to the left, which leads to the lake, and instead climbed towards the grassy hill rising ahead of me. Since it was ten years since I was last on Illgill Head I thought I would do so again, though I soon began to tire as I climbed with the views back into Wasdale Head failing to revive me. 

After the gradient eased on reaching the 590 metre top I found the walking beyond much easier and took me to the central, highest top, but the spot height marked on Ordnance Survey maps was not at the stone shelter by the path or even at the small cairn some distance away, though the O.S.’s spot height is close by unmarked. The “true summit” as regarded by Wainwright is further away across a shallow dip and has a splendid cairn sitting above the dramatic slopes that plunge all the way down to Wast Water. Ten years ago I had made my way down to Burnmoor Tarn from this point, but Illgill Head’s neighbouring fell had not been climbed since 2013, so I decided to bag Whin Rigg this time, though I had to reverse my steps afterwards back to the southern slopes of Illgill Head and then try to find a route down the steep slopes. With hindsight, bagging Whin Rigg was a waste of effort. It is best descended or ascended from the southern foot of Wast Water, as I did in 2013. After much effort I eventually reached Burnmoor Tarn where I crossed several paths to reach the boggy ground that defends Lambford Bridge. This was the way I had come in 2016 and I was keen to do it again, though it was not easy to follow with many bogs to traverse on a sketchy path that I lost on several occasions, so I was relieved when I finally descended into Eskdale at the Woolpack Inn, not far from the youth hostel. It was fantastic to be in the Lake District with fabulous weather and stunning scenery, though the views were hazy and it was very tiring. Diverting to Illgill Head and Whin Rigg was possibly a waste of effort, which just shows you that bagging summits is a mug’s game.

Coast to Coast Path: West Cumbria

Sunday 23rd August 2026

In May this year I did a walk across the West Highlands of Scotland on a trail that I had devised myself in an attempt to do something that evoked the same feelings I had after doing the Cambrian Way across Wales last year. I failed. If I had been looking in England for a trail that has similarities to the Cambrian Way then I would have quickly thought of the Pennine Way and the Coast to Coast Walk, which both also take a predominantly higher level route across the country. I have done both before, in stages, but the Coast to Coast was made an official national trail this year, so it seemed like a perfect opportunity for me to do the whole trail, if only to see what changes have been made to bring the path up to national trail status. So, I set off for the Cumbrian coast and the village of St Bees and, after spending the night there, I made my way to the start of what is now officially named the Coast to Coast Path, however, when it was originally devised in 1973 by Alfred Wainwright it was called “A Coast to Coast Walk”. He started the trail from the sea wall at St Bees and forty years later a large marker wall was built near the sea wall to clearly show the starting point of the trail, however, the national trail technically starts further inland at the entrance to the car park, near a bus stop. The trail initially follows the coast around St Bees Head, but last winter part of the coastal path was washed away and so now, at the starter wall, a sign points you in the opposite direction to Wainwright’s route and back towards St Bees.

Before starting the trail I headed onto the beach to allow my boots to be ceremonially washed by seawater, while taking in the view on this sunny morning until finally I set off along the national trail. It is frustrating that I wasn’t able to follow the proper route for the first few miles, so I actually considered headed off along roads to the coast north of the closed path so I could do as much of the trail as possible, but eventually I came to my senses and followed the diversion past St Bees School and through the valley of Pow Beck until I reached the Coast to Coast Path near Stanley, which is already six miles into the trail, so this diversion is actually a great time saver! I am often guilty of pushing myself too far, when the most important thing for me to do is to simply enjoy myself, being outdoors and not rushing. The path descended to cross the railway line, under a bridge, which was not how Wainwright originally devised the Coast to Coast Walk. I am fascinated by all the changes that have been made to the trail over the years and originally it crossed the line by a level crossing until Wainwright received an angry letter from British Rail in 1990 demanding that this was not a right-of-way. Beyond there, after crossing several fields of rough pasture I reached a disused railway line where the national trail turns onto what is now a cyclepath. When Wainwright devised the Coast to Coast Walk the railway was still active, so he took the trail through the village of Moor Row, but this is now bypassed.

The cyclepath was lovely to walk upon being lined with tall trees and avoids the roads until eventually I came off, which was well signposted by the national trail, back onto the original route, following Wainwright’s footsteps past a cricket ground and into Cleator. After crossing the River Ehen an enclosed path brought me to Black How Farm and, after crossing a road, onto a forestry track up the only hill on this stage of the trail: Dent. I had been enjoying the effortless walking on the flat, but soon the benefit of ascending revealed itself in the views back across West Cumbria to the coast while I slowly toiled up the track. The national trail has moved the Coast to Coast Path back onto Wainwright’s original route, sticking to the track, before crossing a fence, to move away from the trees, slowly climbing all the way up to the cairn that is usually considered as the summit of Dent. There, with others also resting at the top, I had my lunch while looking at the view ahead of me towards the Lake District, even though it was spoilt by clouds. The descent was moved in the revised edition to Wainwright’s guidebook onto the southern slopes of Dent before the later, second edition moved it back to Wainwright’s route down the eastern ridge, but now the national trail has adopted the revised edition route so that is how I descended, down steep forestry paths until I reached a quiet valley with a pretty, little stream running through it: the Nannycatch Beck. After the effort of climbing Dent this was a welcome respite for me and a lovely walk followed, crossing many well-built bridges, probably thanks to the national trail.

Eventually I reached a road where a path beside led me safely into the village of Ennerdale Bridge where Wainwright ended the first stage of his Coast to Coast Walk, however, I was not done and on the other side I encountered a new path, built thanks to national trail status that led me to the shore of Ennerdale Water. There the national trail offered me a choice of going around the northern shore of the lake, or to take the much rougher, southern shore, which was Wainwright’s route so that was where I went. I was now in the familiar territory of the Lake District with the awesome high fells that line the valley further ahead, so, despite being very tired, I eagerly set off along the path. I had not done much walking over the summer due to the hot weather, which is not the best preparation for a long distance trail, but I was enthralled with this great, little path that runs beside the lake, which even includes a shot of scrambling over Robin Hood’s Chair. It took me a long time to walk the whole length of Ennerdale Water and then I had just a short distance left to finally take me to the Ennerdale Youth Hostel. I was surprised by how tough I found this first day on the Coast to Coast Path, possibly because of my lack of lengthy walking over the summer, but I was glad to have now done this first stage of the trail as I had not previously been through West Cumbria, though it is frustrating to have not been able to walk around St Bees Head.