Thursday, 14 January 2010

The Loweswater Fells

Wednesday 23rd December 2009

The snow continued to be a major factor during this walk, but fortunately this time I enjoyed perfect weather with the sun shining all day, hardly a cloud in the sky and hardly a breath of wind. The snow meant I couldn't park where I'd planned (next to Maggie's Bridge, near Loweswater), so I parked on the main road at Lanthwaite below Grasmoor. This necessitated a long walk-in from my parking spot to Maggie’s Bridge and another long one at the end when I was tired. However, since this extension was along easy tracks and roads it wasn't too bad and actually I found it quite relaxing compared with the rest of the walk. Beyond Maggie’s Bridge I entered Holme Wood and began climbing the steep wooded slopes eventually reaching the edge of the wood to stunning views of Grasmoor and Whiteside.
Crossing into the open fell I climbed beside a stream, the Holme Beck, for a short distance until I reached a fence where I turned right and followed the fence steeply up the hillside. This was in fact the wrong way. I had misread Wainwright’s guide and therefore missed out on a vastly superior route that crosses the eastern slopes of the fell along an excellent terrace route that affords stunning views over Loweswater before climbing beside a wall to the top of the fell. Instead I had an exhausting climb while trying to drag myself up the steep slope in deep snow that didn't get any better even when the gradient levelled off. This was typical of the whole time I spent on the fells during this walk as I struggled through snow that was often knee deep, and was sometimes even deeper in drifts. It was an extremely tiring day as I had to lift my feet high with every step while wading through the snow, but eventually I managed to walk or sometimes crawl to the summit of Burnbank Fell.

After a short rest I set off beside a fence down the side of the fell and up to the top of Blake Fell, the highest of the Loweswater Fells. After all my effort I collapsed into the stone shelter at the summit and had my lunch. After eating I set off with a spring in my step down the wind-swept (i.e. shallow snow-covered) southern slopes until I reached deeper snow at the bottom, in Fothergill Head, where my trudge resumed and I climbed up to the top of Gavel Fell, my third new Wainwright of the day. My original plan for this wallk had been to go on beyond Gavel Fell to Hen Combe and Mellbreak but under these conditions it was obviously taking me a lot longer than normal to cover the distances. With the sun already beginning to set I headed down the steep north-westerly slope of Gavel Fell onto a broad ridge that had more of the same trudge through deep soft snow. I paused briefly for a last look at the stunning views in perfect weather conditions at a cairn on an unnamed 488m top before dropping steeply down around Black Crag.

With the snow already beginning to get a hard crust as the sun set I came off the fell and onto a bridlepath that took me through High Nook Farm and back to Maggie’s Bridge. A quick walk along the road and up through Lanthwaite Wood brought me back to my car. Although this was a really tiring walk I actually enjoyed it, mainly due to the stunning views that accompanied me all day, which more than compensated for the trudges through deep snow. In the summer this would have been a simple, if boggy, walk. Under these conditions, despite the clear, sunny weather, it was a gruelling challenge of stamina. It amazes me how a little snow turns even the easiest walk into a mountainous expedition and shows that walking under these sorts of conditions should never be taken lightly.

Thursday, 7 January 2010

Holme Fell

Tuesday 22nd December 2009

I had planned to start this holiday the day before this, but bad weather forced me to cancel my overnight accommodation and stay at home slowly getting frustrated by my inaction. When I could not stand being cooped up at home any longer I set off up the M6 with rather poor road conditions and braved snow on the Lakeland roads. Because of the snow I decided that I would just do a small fell, but still a Wainwright that I'd never done before. Holme Fell is just over a thousand feet high and is the fell that I missed out on my way to Coniston in May 2008. Now I would be able to correct that in quite spectacular weather.

Parking near Yew Tree Farm I approached the National Trust farm taking a path nearby that climbs to the right of the farm and heads towards Harry Guards Wood. Walking through soft unmarked snow I followed a clear path (even in the snow) into the woodland. It was very tiring walking through snow that was so deep I had to lift my feet high taking every step carefully toe first making sure of my footing each time. As I approached the wood I saw prints in the snow that didn’t appear to be made by feet. On closer examination I decided they must have been made by cows, which indeed they proved to be as soon after I entered the wood I came across a small herd of long-haired cows. After a lovely walk through the snow-laden wood I came to the bottom of the key to my ascent at Holme Fell: the Uskdale Gap, which I climbed right up to the top of the fell where I was greeted by stunning views of the Langdale Pikes and Wetherlam. Unfortunately these views quickly disappeared in the mist as I made my way across the undulating top to the cairn at the top of Ivy Crag before proceeding to the summit. As mist enveloped around me it started snowing, almost creating potentially dangerous white out conditions, which forced me to stop and check the map reference before carefully, slowly making my way up to the summit where I had my lunch. By the time I had finished eating the mist had cleared and as I made my way back to the top of the Uskdale Gap the sun had briefly come out. Leaving the stunning views of the surrounding fells behind me, I quickly dropped down the hill beside the Uskdale stream back into the enchanting woodland following my own footprints through Harry Guards Wood back to my car as it started to snow once again.

The snow on this walk was a good couple of inches deep, but since it was nice and soft I don’t think crampons were ever necessary. I have decided that I’ll probably not get any crampons as I intend to stay away from terrain that requires them. I learnt last year when they were necessary and after giving it a lot of thought I’ve decided that I don’t want to go into full winter walking. Unfortunately when I booked this holiday in the Lake District I didn't know the weather would be this poor (it is unusual to have a lot of snow in the Lake District as early as this in the season). During my holiday I stayed on the lower grassier fells that fortunately I haven’t been up before. This walk was quite simple, a short up and back down the same way, but the snow and general poor weather added an enormous complication to the walk that made it quite difficult and challenging as I constantly took care with every step. Nevertheless I quite enjoyed it.