Lingmoor Fell and Pike of Blisco

Tuesday 25th May 2021

The prospect for this walk was not good following a night of rain, but I set off from Baysbrown Farm Campsite through the wood and onto the quarry road that climbs to the Lingmoor Fell ridge. Although it had stopped raining, many showers would come and go throughout the day, but they failed to spoil my fun as I made my way along the fabulous, undulating ridge as it meanders across the heather covered fell past old quarry workings until I reached the summit of Lingmoor Fell at Brown How. Across the valley, the Langdale Pikes attracted my eye, while ahead of me was my next target, Pike of Blisco, with the Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell lurking behind, touching the clouds. I had last come this way in 2012, when the weather was sunnier but colder, though on that occasion I had turned off the ridge at Brown How to walk down to Lingmoor Tarn, so as I descended the steep, craggy ridge towards Side Pike, I couldn’t remember when I had last come down this way. It is only after looking through my records that I discovered I had climbed this way in 2005 on my first ever visit to Lingmoor Fell, which made this the first time I had ever descended this ridge and might explain why I was surprised by how much steep rock there was to negotiate and requires some proper scrambling.

This made for a fun descent while ahead of me was the rocky top of Side Pike and a sheer cliff face that prevents further progress along the ridge. In 2005 I went around it, but more recent maps indicate a route that circumvents the barrier and was the route that I took in 2012, up to the impenetrable crags and left through a narrow squeeze between two rocks that forced me to take my rucksack off my back. If my rucksack had contained all my camping gear I may have struggled to get it through even when not wearing it, but fortunately this was not the case and I was able to continue along the narrow path that provides access to the easier western slopes of Side Pike and thence to the top. After looking at the views I turned around and descended those western slopes until I somehow lost the path in boggy ground and it wasn’t until I was gingerly making my way steeply down that I saw the path some distance away below me, so carefully I headed across the hillside to continue the descent on the path down to the cattle grid on the road. Just as in 2012, I crossed the road and climbed the grassy slopes opposite towards Pike of Blisco where a path created by fellrunners heads towards the summit, however, unlike in 2012, I didn’t follow it and instead kept to the ridge climbing steadily towards Blake Fell.

I have never visited this top before and, as I sat having my lunch beside the good cairn, the weather improved dramatically providing me with stunning views of the surrounding fells, but most spectacular of all was the view over Little Langdale towards Windermere. Pike of Blisco was also looking sensational in the sunshine, but it soon clouded over again as I set off along the craggy ridge towards the summit stopping off at any notable rise along the way including Bleaberry Knott and Long Crag. When I was more than halfway across it started raining again, heavily, though this was short-lived so by the time I reached the summit of Pike of Blisco the sun was out again. This is a great fell whose lack of height is a great tragedy that was offset by a particularly fine cairn at the summit, but that cairn is now a mere shadow of its former self having been demolished many times and rebuilt by less skilled hands. A steep, rocky path brought me down to Red Tarn where I had to consider my options. In 2012 I had continued along the ridge towards Crinkle Crags, but I have been up there twice since 2012 and I really didn’t want to go up there again. So eventually I decided I would head down into Langdale even if that would mean finishing the walk early.

Turning right at Red Tarn I descended the path that is initially beside Browney Gill down into Oxendale that I had taken only once before, in 2006, in a hurry, so now I was able to take my time and enjoy this fabulous, heavily manufactured path. At one noteworthy point, while rain was falling, I crossed a subsidiary of Browney Gill high above the gorge in stunning surroundings with steep rock all around and sheer slopes below me. At the bottom of the valley I proceeded along Oxendale to Stool End, which is one of those legendary Lakeland farms that is a gateway to the fells, and from there I walked along Langdale past beautiful bluebells in gorgeous sunny weather all the way back to the campsite where I was staying. I had mixed weather on this walk with lovely sunshine on occasions, but also many rain showers. Although I had been afraid the walk would end rather early I took so long walking along Langdale it was about five o’clock when I finally reached the campsite. This was a very relaxing and enjoyable walk on fabulous fells that are exactly why I had come to the Lake District, and why I keep coming back.

Deepdale and Seat Sandal

Monday 24th May 2021

After a wet night spent camped in Deepdale, I set off up the valley that I had previously visited at the end my holiday in 2018 when I had gone as far as Coldcove Gill before climbing the east ridge to St. Sunday Crag and I had enjoyed the views of the valley so was keen to return. A faint path through the grass that was sometimes difficult to follow led me up the valley with improving weather that included patches of sunlight but also the occasional shower. The crags at the head of the valley were impressive, and as I headed towards them, they brooded amongst the mist and grey clouds that lingered well into the morning. Below Mart Crag I thought the best route of ascent was to cross Deepdale Beck onto terrain that was less steep than the precipitous slopes that lie to the north of the stream, but a check of my Harvey Map revealed that the path climbs steeply above a deep ravine and spectacular waterfalls to reach a terrace. This is an amazing spot with the dark, brooding crags of Greenhow End looming above me, the deep ravine below, the long valley stretching behind and the high fells all around me. I reflected that you miss so much by keeping to the ridges and fail to see the awesome sights, such as I was seeing at this moment, in this rarely visited valley.

The terrain now eased into the bowl around Sleet Cove and there I lost the path as I tried to head up to Deepdale Hause. I could see a rake ahead of me that I thought was the route up, but eventually I came to my senses and realised it was far too steep, so I turned back and eventually found the annoyingly clear path that leads up to Deepdale Hause. By this time the weather had cleared and when I reached the top the sun had come out to light all the surroundings fells. Before me I eye was drawn to the dramatic Falcon Crag below Dollywagon Pike with the ridge that leads up to Helvellyn looking grand, while the top of Helvellyn itself still clung onto some cloud. Turning to my right, St. Sunday Crag was lit perfectly with blue sky behind it looking very tempting for an ascent, but I resisted that and all of these high fells since I had climbed them in 2018 and didn’t need to do them again. I wanted to concentrate on this holiday on the fells and paths that I had not been on recently, so instead I took to the path on the other side of the pass, to Grisedale Tarn, that I had taken only once before, in 2013, in poor, cloudy weather that I did not have now.

This path didn’t exist when Wainwright wrote his Pictorial Guide to the Eastern Fells, but he thought there was need of one and it wasn’t long before one was stamped out. It is rather steep and rough at first, but soon joins a clear path that doesn’t seem to have come from anywhere. I was tempted to explore it, but didn’t bother so headed along the path towards Grisedale Tarn before branching left onto a thin path that is little more than a sheep trod and keeps high above the lake until I reached Grisedale Hause. Ahead of me was Seat Sandal that I have only once climbed, in 2006, making it a perfect candidate for this holiday, so I climbed the steep, craggy path all the way up to the top. There were sensational views behind me over Grisedale Tarn with St. Sunday Crag still dominating my attention as it was continued to be lit by the sun while the rest of the fells sulked under clouds. Continuing beyond the top of Seat Sandal I passed another cairn where the views now opened out west across the Lake District before I veered south to take the wide grassy ridge down the same route that I had taken in 2006. On that occasion I was in a hurry to get down in time for my dinner at the youth hostel, but now I was able to take my time.

As I slowly descended I couldn’t imagine rushing down now, as my knees would not take kindly to a speedy descent and was forcing me to take this descent very slowly, though that gave me plenty of time to appreciate the stunning views over Grasmere. When I eventually reached the road I walked into Grasmere where I bought some food for the next few days before making my way over the ridge into Langdale. The usual route starts at Kelbarrow, but I thought I would take an alternative route that I had never taken before and ascends through Wyke Plantation on an interesting path that passes waterfalls and moss-rich woodland to reach the bracken-covered ridge below Silver How. I have spent many happy hours walking from Blea Rigg past Silver How on this ridge that is a maze of paths and part of the fun is finding your own unique way along it. The route beyond the trees, over the ridge, was not clear and not helped by the wet ground, but soon I came to the top of the path beside Spedding Crag that leads down into Langdale and had previously taken in 2012. When I reached Chapel Stile a short walk brought me to Baysbrown Farm Campsite where I would stay for the next few days.

Despite the good weather I had reached the campsite by mid-afternoon, but I appreciated the early finish to the walk as I wanted the time to settle in and dry out my tent. However, after dinner, with the good weather continuing, I took a walk through Baysbrown Wood where I found a generous covering of bluebells and after climbing to the disused Bank Quarry to get a mobile signal, I came back down the hill through Elterwater Quarry into Langdale. This was a lovely day that made up for the rain the day before that had ruined my plans for this holiday, but now I was in a fabulous location and I had good weather. I had enjoyed the walk out of Deepdale and over Seat Sandal, but it was the stroll in the evening that was the highlight of the day. Without the weight of a rucksack I felt tremendous relaxation and a release from all my problems as I walked past the delightful bluebells. I was no longer chasing unrealistic goals and targets trying to bag an arbitrary list of peaks, but had started walking for the sheer enjoyment of walking in the Lake District, and there is no better thing that you can do than that.