Hard Knott and Esk Pike

Monday 25th April 2011

The weather for this walk was a little cooler than the previous day's, but not by much. It was still a warm day and afforded me with clear views all around Upper Eskdale. I set off from the youth hostel and walked up the valley, trying to avoid the road by crossing Doctor Bridge and following the footpaths to the south of the river, but I still hit the road at Jubilee Bridge at the start of the steep pull over Hardknott Pass. This is a difficult climb for cars but on this day many cyclists were also slowly making their way up the winding road. Rather them than me! I was slowly walking up the hill, past the Roman Fort of Hardknott (there isn’t much to see so I didn’t linger) and on to the top of the pass. With views down the other side of the pass into Dunnerdale, I climbed up the fell that lends its name to the pass: Hard Knott.

After all the agony of the climb to the top of the pass I was now able to enjoy myself as I explored the various tops around Hard Knott, starting with Border End which overlooks the pass. With views of the Eskdale Needle below and the great fells that surround Eskdale on the horizon, I crossed the complex terrain to the summit of Hard Knott and with this Wainwright bagged I now had only three left to complete all the Wainwrights. I continued my exploration of Hard Knott, eventually stopping at a cairn on the last outcrop on the northern slopes and there I kicked off my boots from my aching feet as I relaxed in the shelter of the outcrop and had my lunch while gazing out across the gorgeous scenery of Eskdale. Now that my goal for the day had been accomplished I was unsure what I was going to do next. Originally I'd planned on climbing the unending grassy slopes of Crinkle Crags, but I was now too tired and weary to try it.

As I neared Lingcove Beck I decided I would follow the stream all the way up the valley, but little knowing that it was going to be a very long and tiring way. I had never been along the path all the way to Ore Gap before so thought it would be a good idea; I now know how far it is. After frequent stops to catch my breath I eventually reached the top of the pass at Ore Gap, where I turned left and climbed the gloriously stony terrain to the summit of Esk Pike. This is a fabulous fell, tragically overlooked by its bigger neighbours but deserves far greater recognition due to its complex rocky terrain and stunning views. After a rest I headed straight down the awesome, pathless south ridge of Esk Pike. This was a great descent as I picked my own route down the long, crag-filled ridge. Despite coming to a dead-end at a cliff top, and having to climb back up, I thoroughly enjoyed this ridge. I climbed this way some years ago and enjoyed it then and now was no different as I relished in the freedom and ease of the descent.

Eventually I reached the River Esk near Scar Lathing where I was easily able to cross the river due to the recent lack of rain. I wanted to walk through the Esk Ravine on the steep, western side, but this is a very tricky path that even Wainwright warned against saying that it enters a gorge below Green Crag from which escape is difficult (well, that was what attracted me!). It was indeed difficult to get through the ravine, but it could have been tougher. At one point I was given a choice of routes and I took the upper path, but I can’t help thinking that the lower path would have been more exciting, though I think I was wary of the possibility of the lower path having subsided into the ravine. A return trip to investigate is called for I think. I continued beside the river and walked all the way to the youth hostel along the bottom of Eskdale. This was a fabulous walk in a great area of the Lake District. I just love Upper Eskdale as one can walk through it all day, on a Bank Holiday Monday, and hardly see anyone, and this walk showed off the valley at its best. There is nowhere better in the whole of the Lake District.

Scafell Pike by Piers Gill

Sunday 24th April 2011 

The evening before this walk someone in the youth hostel I was staying in said the weather forecast for the next day was the best that he'd ever seen for the Lake District. It was perfect. There were clear blue skies all day with an occasional cold breeze to cool the heat of the day. To accompany these amazing conditions I did a very challenging and tiring walk across the highest hills in England. To take the easier routes would have been too simple so I took the hardest routes I could find just to more successfully wear me out. And it worked! 

I set off from Seatoller and walked along the Seathwaite road as far as the Seathwaite Bridge and from there I followed the river past Seathwaite around the foot of Base Brown up to Taylorgill Force. I absolutely love this wonderful path; in fact it may be my favourite path in the Lake District. It is a bit of a scramble, perched on the side of a steep cliff face, and affords close up views of Taylorgill Force. It is the perfect path. I first walked this path on my first ever visit to the Lake District, and I have loved it ever since, but it must be five years since I last walked up it. That is just too long. Soon however I was past the waterfall and climbing beside the stream up to the top of Sty Head Pass. 

Passing over the top of the pass, I descended on the little used valley-route path towards Wasdale. This is a lovely little path that cleverly snakes up the steep hillside from the stream below, but all too soon I left the path and crossed the steep hillside to Piers Gill, joining the path near the confluence of Greta Gill with Piers Gill. The path climbs steeply up the rock-strewn terrain and afford me with vertiginous views into the deep ravine of Piers Gill to my right. I had never been up the Piers Gill path before and I found it very challenging, but also with some stunning views. This was a tough, tiring climb that required a bit of a scramble, but eventually I reached the Corridor Route and finally I crossed Piers Gill. 

I didn't stay on the Corridor Route for long but branched off to cross Lingmell Col and climbed up to the top of Lingmell, where I had my lunch. I had been up Lingmell only once before, which is a great tragedy considering the number of times I’ve been up the neighbouring Scafell Pike. The views from the top of Lingmell were quite stunning with an all-round panorama that was only supplemented by the views of Scafell Pike that dominated the scene to the south across the col. One could argue that the views from the top of Lingmell are better than those from Scafell Pike and with a wider summit area there was plenty of scope for exploration. I wish I’d spent more time on Lingmell, but I still had a long way to go so after lunch I crossed Lingmell Col and joined the crowds climbing up Scafell Pike. Having come so far it would have been a shame to leave out the highest mountain in England. 

I went up Scafell Pike Easter Sunday last year but the conditions at the summit then were completely different to Easter Sunday this year. Last year there was still quite a lot of snow at the summit, now there was no snow at all and instead I found warm, bright sunshine. It’s amazing how conditions at the top of a mountain can vary Easter to Easter. I’ve been walking at Eastertime for more than ten years and I have encountered snow and cold, hard rain as well as warm, clear skies. It’s an interesting time to go walking and there is no better time. The summit of Scafell Pike was as ridiculously busy as usual so I didn't stay long and immediately headed towards Mickledore, the gateway to Sca Fell, the second highest mountain in England. 

There are only two routes from Scafell Pike to Sca Fell, and the direct one up Broad Stand is not one of them, so both routes required me to circumvent the huge crag that was blocking my way. The easier (and recommended) way is via Foxes Tarn (still not particularly easy), and the harder way is up Lord’s Rake, so that's the route I took. At the end of the narrow connecting ridge of Mickledore I dropped steeply down treacherous loose stones to a path that crosses the foot of the enormous Scafell Crag to Lord's Rake. I have been up Lord's Rake twice but this time it seemed much harder. The rocks in the area are disintegrating and nowhere more so than in Lord's Rake itself. I found it a really difficult to climb up the steep loose stones and dirt that comprised the rake, and I was greatly relieved when I eventually reached the top. I suspect that Lord’s Rake will eventually become impassable to anything other than superhuman effort, and that prospect fills me with great sadness.

I had originally intended on taking the West Wall Traverse from Lord's Rake, but I didn't like the crumbly state of it so I stayed on the straight route over the top of Lord’s Rake, across a couple more steep, though easier rakes, and eventually emerged on the side of Scafell. Now I had to climb steep, rock strewn terrain all the way up to the summit of Sca Fell, which was a long way away, so by the time I reached the top I was really tired and just collapsed in a heap beside the summit cairn while taking in the stunning surroundings. After a rest, and a bit of Kendal Mint Cake, I started off down the long southern slopes of Sca Fell all the way to Eskdale. 

I came up this path on my first visit to the Lake District and I found it to be a far too lengthy climb. On a later visit I descended by this route and found it to be a delightfully relaxing descent, known as the Terrace Route, but on this occasion I was possibly too tired to be able to enjoy the faint path. Eventually I came down into Eskdale where a short walk along the valley road took me to the youth hostel. This was a really tiring walk, but in stunning weather, over some truly amazing and challenging terrain, and through some absolutely stunning surroundings. This was the Lake District at its best.