Great Mountains: Beinn Liath Mhor

When I was trying to think of another mountain to talk about in this series on great mountains I thought of the range of hills in the Coulin deer forest and I could not think of anywhere better. These mountains lie between the valleys of Glen Carron and Glen Torridon and feature three Munros and four Corbetts, but the finest mountain in the range is Beinn Liath Mhor. There are several reasons why the Coulin Forest is a great place to walk with the highest on the list being the excellent maze of paths throughout the area. I first walked through the area in 2009 when I was merely looking for a way to walk from Torridon to the nearest railway station at Achnashellach and found a well-made path that easily climbs into the Coulin Forest. On reaching Bealach Bàn I had excellent views north towards the Torridon giants, which this is another appeal that all these mountains share. The Torridon giants are awesome mountains that look dramatic with sheer sides that terrify me just to think of them. In many ways they are Great Mountains and deserving of examination in this series, but my heart is to the south of them in the gentler mountains of the Coulin Forest that welcome all without the terror-inducing ridges that rejoice in Torridon. The weather was fabulous when I climbed that path in 2009 so I felt obligated to head up one of the Munros in the area and it was Beinn Liath Mhor that was climbed.

Coming from Torridon, I had passed Loch an Eoin, climbed over Bealach an Lice and Bealach Bàn before I crossed Coire Grannda to the top of the pass into Coire Làir (this pass is unnamed on Ordnance Survey maps, but could be called Bealach Coire Làir). The walk to the top of the pass from Torridon is fabulous through superb ever-changing scenery that is thoroughly enjoyable even if the weather is poor as it was for me in 2019. In 2009 I had planned to turn right at Bealach Coire Làir to climb up Sgorr Ruadh, but instead I turned left towards the captivating ridge over Beinn Liath Mhor where attractive, white quartzite stones abound in stark contrast to the dull red sandstone on Sgorr Ruadh. A stiff climb brought me up to the summit of Beinn Liath Mhor where I had amazing views north towards the Torridon mountains from a summit that is covered in white quartzite stones. From there a fabulous two kilometre ridge was a joy to walk along before the descent begins on an excellent path that took me down to Drochaid Coire Làir. I returned to Coire Làir in 2014 and although the weather was not as good I still could not resist the temptation to climb Beinn Liath Mhor again, this time in the other direction.

This mountain satisfied me again despite the poor weather and when the clouds lifted I was rewarded with the great view again along the excellent ridge that was once again an utter delight to walk along. Coming down to Bealach Coire Làir I took the path into Coire Grannda and over Bealach Bàn into Coire Fionnaraich to the bothy that is in the valley. I had been going through a rough time on that holiday and needed a good walk to lift my spirits, which was precisely what Beinn Liath Mhor gave me. The prolonged traverse and stunning views wiped away all my disappointments of the previous few days as I looked forward in hope to a few days of good walking in the Coulin Forest. However, my ascent of Maol Chean-dearg the next day was marred by a stupidly steep ascent from Bealach na Lice that was relieved by a gloriously rocky descent to the saddle of Bealach a’ Choire Ghairbh that was reminiscent of the rocky ridge of Beinn Liath Mhor. I enjoyed more rock going up the Corbett of An Ruach-Stac from where I had a great view across the saddle towards the Munros of Coire Làir including Beinn Liath Mhor in the distance. The overcast weather failed to mar the walk in an area that is abundant in rock and with stunning views.

The final day of my few days of recuperation in the Coulin Forest in 2014 was spent returning to Coire Làir and it required tremendous effort for me to resist returning over Beinn Liath Mhor despite it being only two days since I was last there. Instead I turned right at Bealach Coire Làir and enjoyed a good path that took me all the way up to the top of Sgurr Ruadh where the views all around continued to be great. All the mountains in the Coulin Forest are great with the paths that link the valleys providing good routes to the mountains, but it will always be Beinn Liath Mhor that I turn to first. However, when I returned again in 2019 I resisted the temptation and kept to the path that passes through Coire Làir without topping either Munro. With hindsight, I wish I’d climbed Beinn Liath Mhor again, not only because it is a fabulous mountain, but also because by the time I reached the foot of Beinn Eighe, one of the Torridon giants, it was late afternoon and there was no time to do anything except put up my tent. I had been influenced by the fact that I’d already climbed Beinn Liath Mhor twice, but that should not have prevented me climbing a great mountain again.

My love affair with Beinn Liath Mhor started in 2009 with that walk out of Torridon that also introduced me to delights of the Coulin Forest. Excellent paths are the secret to this delightful area that provide easy access to dramatic looking mountains and will surely draw back to this area in the future. The best mountain walking is ridge walking and this is the secret to the delights of Beinn Liath Mhor, so when I do make a return visit to the Coulin Forest I’m sure I will then divert onto that awesome ridge that has been enthusing me for over ten years.

Lose Hill and Kinder Scout

Saturday 8th August 2009

While we are all stuck in lockdown it has not possible for me to do any new walks, but my old walks have been a comfort to me during the last twelve months as I read the old entries in this blog and look through all the photos I have taken during my walks. When looking through my old pictures I noticed some from a walk that I did in the Peak District in 2009 that had not been described before. If the walk had been done now, it would be surprising that a walk such as this was never put onto this blog, but back then there was a reason for leaving out this walk. In 2009 I had started to describe my earliest mountain walks, beginning in the Black Mountains from 1999, and I knew that I had a lot of walks to write about which would fill the winter months when I had no new walks to describe for many years to come. Therefore, I made a decision that I wouldn’t bother writing about day walks in the Peak District and this walk was dropped, however I had an ulterior motive for this walk. My camera had stopped working and had wiped all of the pictures that I had taken during the first half of the day, but now, with all my walks from before I started this blog described and nothing else to write about, I am going to attempt to describe a walk that I have no record of and with photos that don’t start until lunchtime. This should be interesting!

I have a vague memory of going up Lose Hill at the start of this walk, but I am not sure how I got there or even where I started. The last picture taken is from the slopes of Win Hill looking towards Lose Hill on the other side of the valley, so it is reasonable to say that I started the walk from the valley between Lose and Win Hills, and probably from the village of Hope. A clear path heads towards Lose Hill from the village of Hope passing through several grassy fields before heading up steeper, rougher ground to the top of the hill. I most recently climbed this hill last year and it is always deservedly popular as it lies at the eastern end of the Great Ridge that is the dividing line between the limestone of the White Peak to the south and the gritstone of the Dark Peak to the north. A great walk heads along the ridge and at some point I came off it, but I have no idea where, perhaps at Hollins Cross pass, though I think it is more likely that after passing over Mam Tor I headed down Harden Clough. I certainly crossed the Vale of Edale, and then I think I climbed Crowden Clough as I remember doing that, but my pictures don’t agree. The first photo that I have from this walk, timed at 12.23, is from a wide grassy ridge looking towards the gritstone outcrops of the southern edge of Kinder Scout.

It looks like it was taken from Grindslow Knoll, which suggests I climbed that way, but I am so convinced I climbed Crowden Clough I bet I followed the Pennine Way until it starts to descend towards Upper Booth and took a path along the edge of the rising ground into Crowden Clough where I followed the brook up to the southern edge of Kinder Scout. I remember enjoying this ascent and wishing that I had taken this route before as it was really good, however I have not taken it again since. From there I turned east branching off the main footpath and took my first picture that has survived after the previous pictures had been wiped before heading across to Grindslow Knoll. There I think I had my lunch before heading back to the main footpath following the edge above Grindsbrook Clough. This is fabulous terrain with great views down the valley and across Edale with Lose Hill far in the distance showing how far I had already walked. Keeping to the southern edge of Kinder Scout I passed the top of Golden Clough and Ollerbrook Clough before heading onto Crookstone Out Moor at the eastern end of Kinder Scout.

Many of the (surviving) pictures from this walk are overexposed indicating that the weather was hazy with poor light that was not helped by the best of the views being behind me into the westerly sun. As I came down over Crookstone Hill the distinctive peak of Win Hill was before me and drew me on all the way along the ridge and up to the top. The last picture taken on this walk looks across the valley to where it had started, Lose Hill, and beyond it to the Great Ridge on one side and the Kinder Scout plateau in the distance on the other side. Edale was the scene for many of my earliest walks going back to when I was at University in nearby Sheffield, so I have a lot of affection for the area. This looks like it was a good walk and I have fond memories of the ascent in Crowden Clough, but for some reason it was never posted on this blog, until now.