Beinn Liath Mhor

Friday 12th June 2009

This was my last walk in Scotland for this year and I had to go from Torridon all the way to Achnashellach station through the Coulin deer forest just so I could catch a train to Inverness. On the way I passed through some fabulous scenery and climbed over a Munro, Beinn Liath Mhor, all in amazingly good weather. I left Torridon early and walked across the foot of Glen Torridon to the village of Annat where I took an excellent stalker's path that slowly climbed across the hillside moving away from the gorgeous mountains of Liathach and Beinn Eighe. Despite the magnificence of the Torridon Mountains, part of me was relieved to be leaving the area as I had been repeatedly bitten by the multitudinous midges that plague the area. After a while I rounded Loch an Eion and reached Bealach na Lice at the head of Coire Fionnaraich which is overlooked by the Munro Maol Chean-dearg. I was now not far from the mountain that I’d climbed the day before, Beinn Damh, which was now much clearer than it had been when I’d climbed it. At the top of the pass I took a path that crossed high up the side of the corrie and over Bealach Bàn into Coire Grannda.

Even though I still hadn’t climbed to the top of a mountain I was thoroughly enjoying this walk as the scenery was superb with clear views, but more importantly I had a good path. Even though the path was manufactured it was built in a very minimalistic way so it didn’t leave too much of a scar on the landscape. A good path makes walking easier and when it’s not at the top of a mountain like this path it’s greatly appreciated, the alternative being a boggy tramp. Rather than straining myself I was able to enjoy the sunshine and the views as I strolled along the narrow path as it weaved around the hills without demolishing its way through them. Stalker's paths in Scotland are often very good but these are some of the best I’ve found in Scotland and are quite extensive. One characteristic of good mountains is good paths leading up to them, and these mountains in the Coulin deer forest seem to fulfil that requirement nicely despite the bleakness of the terrain.

From Coire Grannda I had sumptuous views of Liathach and Beinn Eighe basking in the bright sunshine, but also ahead of me were the Munros of Beinn Liath Mhor and Sgorr Ruadh at the head of Coire Lair. I had originally intended on going over Sgorr Ruadh, but as I climbed up to the bealach I changed my mind and decided to go over the other Munro as it had better views and a narrow ridge. On reaching the top of the pass I turned left and climbed the stony hillside up to the top of the Munro of Beinn Liath Mhor where I had my lunch. I sat against the summit cairn in the gorgeous weather in awe as I gazed across the wild, empty landscape of the deer forest to the giants of Liathach and Beinn Eighe, with many more mountains as far as the eye could see. The views were so perfect I just didn’t want to leave, but I had a train to catch. After lunch I walked along the narrow stony ridge while still attracted by the views of the Torridon Mountains behind me as I passed over several tops until finally I reluctantly had to say goodbye to the Torridon Mountains and drop down the steep slope at the end of the ridge. A simple walk along a rather over-manufactured path brought me down to the bottom of the valley and through a rhododendron-laden wood to the railway station. This was a fantastic walk through wonderful scenery in gorgeous weather, and was a fitting end to my fortnight’s holiday in Scotland. It is a pity I was unable to walk over both of the Munros in Coire Lair but a return trip would be richly rewarding. Although I have left Scotland for this year, but I am already planning next year’s trip.