Buachaille Etive Beag

Sunday 23rd July 2006

The weather for this walk was very mixed with hot spells under bright sunshine and cold spells with rain. Overall it wasn't a bad day but the quality of the mountain walking wasn't really up to the standards of the previous week; having said that the views were first rate. I started with another long walk up Glen Coe, all the way up to the top of the valley, and it was great to explore the whole valley. I had considered walking up the Pap of Glencoe, but my desire to see the top of Glen Coe prompted a change of mind. Despite the long walk it was well worth it to see the stunning views down the valley. Last year I got my first glimpse of Glen Coe from a bus and ever since then I had been desperate to return. It truly is a wonderland; I now know what heaven is going to look like, Glen Coe is heaven on earth.

Once past the major road works at the top of the glen (I was walking along the old road so the modern road hidden in the gorge was not spoiling my view), I took the footpath marked to Glen Etive but I didn't stay on it for long as before the path descends to cross a river I took a left branch up towards Buachaille Etive Beag (known as the Wee Buachaille). The path was rather muddy with nothing to appeal to me so I was relieved when I finally reached the bealach where the rocky slopes led me up to the top of Stob Coire Raineach, the northern Munro of the Wee Buachaille.

After a lunch spent admiring the views all around me, including the encroaching clouds, I headed off along the ridge donning waterproofs, but the rain proved to be short-lived. After a climb to a 902m top the ridge levelled off and provided me with an entertaining, but short-lived walk along the rocky ridge to Stob Dubh, the southern Munro. From there the only way off was south down the scree towards Glen Etive. After the fun of the scree was behind me I desended dreary grass all the way down to the bottom; the stunning views of Glen Etive with Loch Etive in the distance were my only compensation.

At the bottom I turned around and crossing the Allt Lairig Eilde I followed the path over the pass and back down to the top of Glen Coe where my long walk back continued. Pausing once again at the top of the glen to admire heaven on earth I headed down the glen back to the youth hostel. Sadly my few days in Glencoe were already at an end and the next day I moved over to Glen Nevis, but I would miss Glen Coe.

Beinn a' Bheithir

Saturday 22nd July 2006

This was another good day marred by a long walk in and a long walk out, plus I was getting problems with my feet. To start I walked several miles to Ballachulish and from the south of the village followed a path onto the hillside. Soon I abandoned the path and headed uphill towards the eastern ridge of Sgorr Bhan on a path that slowly appeared through the heather leading up to the ridge. Further up, the path became more distinct as the terrain became rockier and once the ridge narrowed the path quickly became more interesting as  many scrambling opportunities presenting themselves. I was in heaven climbing up this ridge under a cool, cloudy sky, but with clear views all around.

Eventually the ridge levelled out and my scrambling fun was over leaving me with a stony walk to the summit of Sgorr Bhan. After lunch I proceeded down and around the perfect arc at the head of the valley with steep drops either side of the path and up to the first Munro, Sgorr Dhearg, a beautifully formed mountain capped with white quartzite stones. It was a magical place and I was reluctant to leave, but ahead of me was the second-half of Beinn a'Bheithir lying majestically before me. Although it is not as beautiful as its neighbour it is certainly more rugged with many crags. Descending to the deep bealach I climbed along the top of the ridge taking advantage of scrambling opportunities to reach the second Munro of the day, Sgorr Dhonuill.

After a pause to admire the view in the now bright sunshine I descended the other side of the mountain and rounded the top of Gleann a'Chaolais. Now I had a spot of difficulty; the guide book suggested descending a green gully, but all the gullies I could see were stone filled and therefore very tricky to descend. Eventually I picked a route descending in a precarious fashion steeply down to the head of the glen, at times sliding down the scree slope, not I may add without injury. Once at the bottom and bandaged I made my way to the left side of a young stream where a path was becoming clear.

This path led me into the forest that dominates the glen, delving deep into it, until I arrived at a forest road. I like woodland paths, because they are often well constructed in the way that they weave between the trees, undulating up and down with the terrain, constantly changing. But forest roads are deadly dull; they are wide, hard tracks that rarely change height cutting straight through the landscape with no variation and I had several miles of forest road ahead of me before I eventually emerged on the main road. Normally this would have been bad enough, but after bit of walking along the hard surface my feet began to complain.

My left ankle had started hurting the evening before and now it flared up again, but this time the balls of my feet were also starting to hurt. The latter, I'm sure, was due to the hard surface and worn out inner soles. The hard surface couldn't be helped but the inadequate soles could be patched until I was able to get new ones. Once my feet were properly bandaged I was finally able to get out of the forest and continue walking for more than an hour back to the youth hostel.

Bidean nam Bian

Friday 21st July 2006

After a day off in miserable, wet weather during which I travelled up to Glen Coe, this walk was invigorating and evaporated all my blues and the low clouds that surrounded me. Leaving the youth hostel I walked up to the main road and then on a footpath beside the road all the way into upper Glen Coe opposite the Three Sisters (not that I could really see them, in the low cloud). Following the path past two car parks I dropped down to a tree-sheltered bridge over the River Coe. This path continued steeply up the hillside under trees into the infamous hidden valley. The approach had something of an ethereal quality to it with a narrow, tree filled valley, towering cliffs either side and low cloud. The scenery seemed almost magical in its atmosphere but that was nothing compared with the lost valley itself.

Suddenly without warning I came out onto a wide pebble-filled plain with the misty conditions making the unusual surroundings even more mystical. Beyond the hidden plain the path continued to climb steeply up the valley, seemingly forever. Towards the top the terrain became very difficult with steep scree slopes predominating. After a great deal of effort and with enormous relief I eventually managed to gain the top of the valley where I really needed a rest so I had lunch and was rewarded with a clearing of the clouds ahead of me revealing glorious views down Gleann Fhaolain.

Once satisfactorily rested I ascended the slope east rising to Stob Coire Sgreamhach and bagged the Munro. Returning to the bealach I headed west following the ridge over so many false summits that when I reached the actual summit I passed straight over it and down the other side! Arriving at the western top I studied the map and returned to the actual summit of Bidean nam Bian, the highest point in Glen Coe. Despite the dense cloud I was really enjoying myself as I hopped around from outcrop to outcrop, trying a little scramble down the ridge from the summit and then doing it again on my way back. It didn't bother me in the slightest that I'd walked past the summit or that the mist was thick as the terrain was just too fabulously rugged and craggy to spoil my fun. From the Munro I headed north-east down the complicated, but oh-so-enjoyable ridge to Stob Coire nan Lochan where the clouds lifted to such an extent that stunning views were gained of the upper corries behind me.

From Stob Coire nan Lochan I descended the northern ridge overlooking several stunning gullies. Standing on the edge of these cliff faces and looking down was a very nerve wracking experience, but great fun! Continuing down the ridge I descended into the corrie and once past the cliffs I picked up a stream, which I followed down to the main valley river, which had a clear path beside it. With a sure guide to follow I rushed down the path enjoying the descent, but regretting the end of yet another great walk. Unfortunately as is often the case in Scotland, after the walk proper was over I still had an hour's walk ahead of me in order to get back to the youth hostel, but I don't think there's any way to avoid that (besides bringing my car!).

Ben Cruachan

Wednesday 19th July 2006

This was a long day mainly due to a late start. I caught a train from Crianlarich towards Oban, getting off at the ‘Falls of Cruachan’ station, however the train didn't leave Crianlarich till 10.39 so most of the morning was over by the time I started the walk. Add to that the very hot temperatures and we have a long, strenuous walk, but one that will always be remembered due to the sheer magnificence of the mountain climbed. Starting from the station I probably immediately made a mistake by going up a service road for the power station, crossing the railway line I found myself on a narrow, overgrown and very steep path that didn't seem to have had anyone on it in years. Despite everything to the contrary the path continued up the hill beside the Cruachan burn into cooler, clearer air and the road that leads up to Cruachan Dam.

After the steep ascent in sweltering temperatures, I followed the service road up to the eastern end of the dam and continued beyond the road on a footpath beside the half-full reservoir before turning steeply up the hillside. The hot weather and a full rucksack made this climb virtually impossible and left me in a poor state where I would stumble a few steps, stop for a rest, and then took a few more paces before stopping again for a rest. Through stubborn determination I somehow managed to drag myself all the way up onto the top of the ridge and once I finally got there I just collapsed.

Since I couldn't go anywhere, even if I'd wanted to, I had my lunch while gazing out over the stunning scenery all around me. The views weren't perfect as the haze that I had encountered the day before was persisting, but the haze failed to prevent me from seeing the amazing views of the imposing bulk of Ben Cruachan behind me and the shadowy mountains on the horizon eastwards. Dragging myself back into action I climbed over Stob Garbh and up to Stob Diamh, my first Munro of the day. Gazing eastwards I saw a Munro top, Sron an Isean, only a short walk away and I couldn't resist it, so abandoning my rucksack on the Munro I leapt down the steep rocky path and bagged the top before coming back to the Munro enjoying the steep rocky ascent.

With the heavy rucksack back on my back I slowly made my down the narrow rocky ridge across to Drochaid Ghlas and with the terrain now becoming rockier I was finally beginning to enjoy the walk. Slowly I made my way up the tremendous ridge climbing all the way up to the top of Ben Cruachan, and what a mountain! What a massive hulking behemoth! This mountain must rank with the best of them as it is a huge mass of rock erected in a delightful, conical, mountain shape. If anything deserves the title of mountain rather than being merely a hill then this is it. I was disappointed to have to leave the summit but it was past five o'clock so the day was already old and I still had a long way to go. Reluctantly I left the summit and descended a fabulous rocky slope to Bealach an Lochain before climbing up onto Meall Cuanail (which was another good rocky path). Ahead of me now was a long, grassy descent leading all the way down to the dam, but was I bothered? No, the rucksack was now mysteriously very light as I joyfully bounced down the hill. On reaching the dam I descended the grass slopes beside it to the service road where I picked up a path on the opposite side of the burn descending on a much better path than I had climbed.

Joyfully, I descended through the trees and rhododendrons returning to the road a little before eight o'clock, not long before a bus was due to Oban. This was perfect timing for a perfect walk, except for the hot weather, heavy rucksack and the late start, but with terrain as brilliantly rugged as Ben Cruachan, I could forget any problems. Any walk on Ben Cruachan is a perfect walk.

Ben Lui & Ben Oss

Tuesday 18th July 2006

This was the first day of my holiday in the Scottish Highlands and was a gruelling walk in very hot weather, but still a great day. I caught a train from Crianlarich, where I was staying, to Tyndrum, which is merely the next station up the line but it saved me crucial miles of walking. From the lower station I headed through a conifer plantation, around the side of a low hill and down into the Cononish valley. Joining a clear landrover track I walked up the valley to the Cononish farm, where I was stopped by the farmer; no problem, but he needed a hand getting his Land Rover started, which was indeed a problem because it was heavy! It took us many attempts pushing it back and forth until finally we had it positioned at the top of a slope where gravity was able to take over and get the thing started. After all that pushing I was exhausted, and I hadn't even got to the mountain yet!

Returning to the track I resumed my course towards Ben Lui with the huge mountain looming fearsomely before me as I approached. When I reached the Allt an Rund the track ended and a path continued on the other side of the stream climbing into the corrie. Now my hard work really began as I climbed steeply up into Coire Gaothach; this was tiring work in the heat, but it was great fun all the same climbing between two expectant sentinels that stared down the valley with imposing crags high above me. At the right moment I left the path and ventured across grassy slopes to the left-hand ridge to steeply climb Stob an Tighe Aird.

No path was visible until I neared the top, which gave me a great sense of achievement when I finally reached the summit, but that was only the beginning as a short grassy ridge took me to the foot of vertiginous crags that lead me all the way up to the summit of Ben Lui. Dismissing the bypassing path that veers left above Coire an t-Sneachda I began to scramble up the craggy mountain-side. To my surprise and joy I found an excellent path that snakes up the mountain ensuring a relatively easy ascent but still required real scrambling at times. Eventually the summit of Ben Lui was reached and the views, of course, were sensational; the early cloud had lifted revealing a stunning landscape all around. 

After lunch I decided that the north-west ridge wasn't going to be as interesting as the ridge just I’d climbed so I set off on a long trek across the mountain-side to bag two more Munro’s. From my vantage point at the top of Ben Lui the adjacent Munro of Beinn a'Chleibh didn't seem worth the effort, so I headed south quickly descending the grassy slopes to Bealach Laoigh and then much more slowly I climbed up the long slopes of Ben Oss. Once I had bagged this Munro I headed down to Bealach Buidhe and up to the top of my third Munro of the day, Beinn Dubhchraig. It had taken me three hours, and a lot of effort, to bag those two Munros and I can't really say I enjoyed the experience.

The terrain was nothing special and the views were becoming hazier as the day progressed; Loch Fyne in the distance looked impressive, but it was just too hazy to be really good. With no path to follow until I was approaching Bealach Buidhe I couldn't even enthuse over that, but once a footpath arrived on the other side of the pass I was in heaven again. I love paths that cunningly weave their way up a hillside, zigzagging back and forth and showing off the exceptional skill of their builders. The path up Beinn Dubhchraig from Bealach Buidhe is just such a path; I don't know why it was built but it is a masterpiece whose only drawback is its short length.

After a breather and another splash of sun cream on top of Beinn Dubhchraig I headed off the mountainside with my day at the top of mountains over, but my walk was not over as there were still two more hours of walking left until I safely returned to Tyndrum. My descent began by heading down the north ridge of Beinn Dubhchraig dropping to the right into Coire Dubhchraig to the young Allt Coire Dubhchraig. Eventually I found a path beside the burn that led me into a young plantation past three useless deer fences until I reached the River Cononish. This was a fabulous woodland walk with a clear path that dropped slowly all the way down to the bottom of the valley. It was a little soft in places but the recent hot weather ensured sound footing all the way down.

Crossing the river I followed a path over the railway line and eventually joined the West Highland Way near Dalrigh. I had considered walking all the way back to Crianlarich, but a look at the distance on the map and the knowledge that a train was due in Tyndrum prompted me to trek along the West Highland Way back to Tyndrum and wait for the train. I've wanted to walk up Ben Lui for years and now that I've finally accomplished my goal I had to wonder what the rest of my holiday would have in store for me.

Birkhouse Moor & Catstye Cam

Tuesday 30th May 2006

On my last day in the Lake District during this visit I was once again afflicted with my familiar problem of having a deadline to catch a bus and train, and this time it was a horrible one. My train from Penrith was at 17.36, but a bus from Patterdale doesn't arrive at the station until 17.57 and the previous bus is three hours earlier; I had a 2 ½ hour wait in Penrith or alternatively a long walk north all the way to Threlkeld. The latter option didn't appeal to me (I've done it before, it's long and boring) so I had less than 5 hours to do a walk, before I sulking in Penrith for ages. My choice of walk was solved by the excellent weather: my good weather option from Saturday would be ideal; so once I was all packed I left the hostel and headed towards the foot of Birkhouse Moor.

After crossing Grisedale I headed up over the low hill near Lanty's Tarn and crossed Mires Beck to reach the foot of the north-eastern ridge of Birkhouse Moor. Once in position I started climbing up the ridge dodging the young growth of bracken on the lower slopes; I found there was very little actual scrambling necessary with most of the ridge being up steep grassy slopes and over rocky ledges. It's a great way up a fell if you like going straight up but it's not a classic. Once the tough climbing was over I was somewhat frustrated to discover that a long shallow grassy ascent was still necessary before the summit (really the north-eastern top) was reached. Ahead of me I had a glorious view of Helvellyn flanked by its two edges and it was tempting for me to include the edges in the walk, but I didn't really have time for that. So once I reached the Hole-in-the-Wall I didn't follow the crowds across Striding Edge but headed down to Red Tarn and from there up to the foot of Swirral Edge. Spurning Helvellyn I climbed up to the top of Catstye Cam and enjoyed its stunning views. Turning my back on the tremendous views I started my second goal of the day: the north west ridge of Catstye Cam. This was a really enjoyable descent that just wasn't long enough; I had such a great time following the excellent path as it zigzagged down that I was disappointed by the last bit that seemed rather badly eroded as it plunges straight down a scree slope. I like a well-crafted path, so it was disappointing when this path deteriorated into an eroded mess.

At the bottom of the ridge is an old dam left over from the mining activities that were once so prevalent in Glenridding. In the past it had been standard practice to walk over this dam to cross the stream, but when I reached the dam I discovered that it is now barred with signs warning of its unstable condition. Much aggrieved I descended to and stepped over the stream quickly discovering why the dam has been closed off: there is a big hole in it above the stream. Clearly a particularly violent storm has washed away the lower part of the dam provoking the Park Authoritie's decision to block off the dam, which was understandable, even if disappointing.

Once at the bottom of the valley there remained only to walk past Greenside Mine all the way into Glenridding itself, which I arrived at with enough time spare to have a look around the shops and have lunch before catching the bus to Penrith. Spending 2 ½ hours in Penrith wasn't too tiresome as when other activities were exhausted I sat on the station platform and read a book. I've got to say that despite rain every day except on this walk I had a tremendous time on this holiday. It couldn't have been better, and I'm sure it won't be long before I'm back in the Lake District.

Dove Crag, Fairfield & St Sunday Crag

Sunday 28th May 2006

This was a great walk with a mix of weather, but that ended with gorgeous sunshine and stunning views. I started by walking up Patterdale to Hartsop and then crossed the valley to join the woodland path alongside Brothers Water. This was an enjoyable walk to start the day under the trees that lead into the epic grandeur of Dovedale. The towering cliffs all around me were a great sight for the walk up the valley, but then it started raining. After my waterproofs were donned I left the path and headed straight for Dove Crag. The rain was making things a little treacherous but I still tried scrambling up the stones and scree at the foot of the buttress.

I was looking for the Priest's Hole, but I had no idea how to get to the small opening in the hillside, so I guessed and tried aiming for an opening high up in a gulley. This would have been a difficult scramble in the best of conditions, but it was raining and water was pouring down the gully. After almost killing myself I finally came to my senses (and realised the opening I'd seen earlier probably wasn't the cave) I equally dangerously descended the gully back down. In a stroke of perfect timing the rain then stopped and the sun came out enabling me to safely reach the bottom where I rounded the buttress and walked below the huge crag towards the main path onto the felltop.

I had tried to find the cave and I couldn't find it so I gave up, but while walking up to the summit of Dove Crag I came across a path that headed towards and across the cliff face. It suddenly occurred to me that the cave was not at the foot of the cliff as I had supposed but half way up. Annoyed at my aimless wandering around earlier I followed the path to the side of the crag and straight up to the Priest's Hole. It doesn't go far back but would keep you dry in bad weather and comes equipped with a rusty box equipped with supplies like a box of matches and a bottle of vodka.

After taking a load of pictures I went back down the path and up onto the top of Dove Crag. Touching the summit cairn I turned around and followed the clear path beside a wall off the fell and on to Hart Crag. The heavens opened once again and clouds descended as I approached the summit so I had no view as I ate my lunch in the rain, but as soon as I had finished my lunch the rain stopped and the clouds lifted. After lunch, while listening to the Monaco Grand Prix on the radio, I descended the ridge towards Hartsop-over-How. I had no intention of going along this ridge however, and once down the initial steep rocky section I turned left and descended steeply into Link Cove. With impressive crags all around me I crossed the cove and climbed up to the furthest tip of the ridge, the Step.

To stunning views and perfect weather I made my ascent of the Step and was astonished by the voracity of the wind that suddenly buffeted me seemingly springing from nowhere. Struggling against this wind I climbed onto the high plateau of Fairfield skirting the edge of the cliff all the way up to the summit. Last time I was there it had been eight o'clock in the evening on Good Friday towards the end of a long, tiring day. I had missed out the summit on that visit despite never having before been on Fairfield in clear weather. On this walk I was able to enjoy clear views from the summit at the much more sensible time of three o'clock in the afternoon. With stunning views in gorgeous sunshine and powerful winds I left Fairfield and descended over Cofa Pike to Deepdale Hause. Despite the strong winds I sprang down the rocky slope enjoying the narrow ridge.

Climbing over St Sunday Crag I veered off to Gavel Pike in order to enjoy the stunning views of the surrounding fells from this viewpoint. Coming off Gavel Pike I rejoined the main path from St Sunday Crag and headed for Birks, branching off the main path to reach this Wainwright that I had always previously missed out. I was now having a tremendous time in the sunshine as I descended the steep grassy slopes to Arnison Crag. With more incredible views than I surely deserve, I passed over this Wainwright and descended through bracken all the way down to Patterdale. This was a stunning end to a stunning day.

A Martindale Round

Monday 29th May 2006

This was another great walk in both excellent and awful weather. With no warning it could change from clear blue skies to heavy hail, raining off and on all day. I had planned this walk months before to start from Martindale but when I decided to spend the weekend in Patterdale I had to adapt the walk to start from there instead despite the extra climbing that would then be necessary. To start I walked up to Boredale Hause by the bridlepath,  with the rain starting soon after I left the hostel. Passing over the expansive saddle I climbed up to the ridge ahead following a bridlepath up to Bedafell. Continuing along the ridge in the rain I passed over Beda Head and as I descended into Martindale the rain stopped and the sun came out revealing a gorgeous view of Ullswater. Passing through the picturesque hamlet of Martindale I headed over the hill towards Howtown, but instead of going into the village I headed up the dramatic ridge to the south, slowly climbing past Steel End across the interesting rocky ridge up to Steel Knotts, with stunning views all the way. Beyond the summit I descended before climbed anew up a much less interesting ridge that crosses grassy plains up the side of Wether Hill and all the way up to the Roman road, High Street. The terrain was now typically English and boring with wide open moorland while heading over Red Crag and up to High Raise.

Once again the weather had changed and now it decided to start hailing, heavily and persistently. Eventually it stopped and I reached the summit of High Raise in sunshine, but that also didn't last long as it was soon raining again by the time I reached the head of Riggindale Beck. After passing over Rampsgill Head I joined the main path from the top of High Street, but rarely stayed on it. I immediately headed up to the top of the Knott and having bagged that I crossed over the path and climbed up to Rest Dodd. The Coast to Coast path climbs up to Kidsty Pike without going over any summits on the way, but I wanted to go over every single one of them so after slogging my way up Rest Dodd I picked a route that passed over every rise I could see. The rain that came and went throughout the afternoon but did little to dampen my enthusiasm. It was mostly bright and sunny with only brief showers and I was having such a whale of a time I hardly noticed.

Knowing that I had plenty of time I enjoyed myself while hopping from one top to another as I approached the Angletarn Pikes by a circuitous route. There were still many peaks that I had missed out on this walk, including the Nab, but I couldn't be bothered to go up that boggy mound just for the sake of going up it. In the past I had been obsessed with bagging peaks but I now consider it a waste of effort. I should be concentrating on good paths and routes rather than just trying to go up every hill whether they're good or not. The primary goal on this walk was the Bedafell ridge and the Steel Knotts ridge, which were both really enjoyable walks; my goal should always be to have a great time and any other concern is secondary. After enjoying myself on the Angletarn Pikes I reluctantly returned to the path and Boredale Hause from where I descended back down to Patterdale, but not before I had to endure one more hail shower. What an amazing day!

Aira Force & Glencoyne Head

Saturday 27th May 2006

I spent the morning of this walk travelling to Penrith and then I had to wait an hour for the bus with the upshot being that I didn't start walking until almost two in the afternoon. Despite the lateness of the start and the poor condition of the weather I had a good walk in an area of the Lakes that I hadn't walked before. I'd planned two different walks for this day (the other being up Birkhouse Moor and down Catstye Cam), but the rain in Penrith convinced me that my wet weather alternative was needed. Getting off the bus at Park Brow Foot I followed a clear path beside the river up to Aira Force, a spectacular waterfall in a narrow rocky gully. I had never seen it before so I was really glad I'd been able to include it in my schedule as it is quite a sight and I was doubly blessed with a little sunshine while there.

Not wanting to linger too long I headed off to a nearby carpark, and crossing the road I took a footpath opposite up the hillside. Following this path I slowly climbed to the top of Brown Hills with stunning views of Ullswater following me all the way up. After a hard slog in rain onto the top I passed into Glencoyne and proceeded around the side of valley to the very end under the huge barrier of Glencoyne Head. A cunningly constructed path clings to the side of the hill as I slowly climbed across the face of the buttress up to Nick Head. The rain had now stopped and sheltered from the wind with fantastic views across Ullswater, I was having a really enjoyable time.

Descending from the col I arrived at the desolation left from the disused Greenside Mine. Passing the slag heaps I arrived at the edge of Glenridding to stunning views up and down the valley. The sun had now come out and I was rewarded with a pleasant end to the day. Basking in the sun and the gorgeous views I descended the zigzags, which seemed to be a lot greener than the last time I had been there (though maybe that was just me). Crossing the bridge at the bottom of the valley I followed the course of an old leat across the face of Birkhouse Moor to Mires Beck, enjoying a fun little scramble at the end as it crosses the crags below the north-eastern ridge of Birkhouse Moor. After crossing the stream I headed over the top of the hill and down into Grisedale. A short walk along the edge of Glenamara Park took me to my destination and base for the next three days: Patterdale.

Snowdon

Monday 1st May 2006

This was one of those bizarre days that I seem to get a lot where the weather starts abysmally so I abandoned my planned walk for a shorter, simpler one that is finished by lunch time only for the clouds to lift, the rain stopped and the sun came out to reveal a gorgeous afternoon. Such was this walk. Another factor that acted against me was that I didn’t have all day. I had a train to catch at six in Bangor, hence a bus leaving Llanberis before five o’clock. I had a deadline so I couldn’t wait around for the clouds to lift. My original plan was to repeat the previous May Day and go over Crib Goch to complete my tally of 3000 footers, however since I had already missed out Tryfan the day before I was never going to be able to do that! With low cloud and rain once again, and this time also with strong winds, I didn’t feel like repeating my endeavour of the the year before. Crib Goch terrified me then and I had been looking forward to going across in clear weather this time, but that wasn’t to be. Even if I did go over (and survived!) I would still have to come back in order to do it in clear weather. My sentiment was similar to the year before when I abandoned Y Llewedd in favour of doing it in better weather, which I did four weeks later. Crib Goch will still be there when I come back. Back to this walk and despite the bad weather there are no excuses for not going up Snowdon. Walking along the Pyg Track I passed the Crib Goch turning and continued along the path across its southern slopes. I had only once been on the Pyg Track, in descent, three years before, and I had forgotten how good is the path. The early stages don’t appear particularly well-constructed but the later stages have perhaps been over-manufactured, though despite all this the actual line is superb. It gains height to Bwlch y Moch and from there follows a level course below Crib Goch until it reaches the foot of Snowdon where it climbs steeply up to the col with Garnedd Ugain. The final climb beside the railway line is a bit of a let down and on this walk it was bitterly cold with a powerful wind chill, but that was all forgotten when I reached the summit, because it was empty! No one else was there, on a Bank Holiday Monday! All right the weather was poor and it was before eleven o’clock but it was still a wonderful feeling being on the normally crowded summit all on my own.

When I was eventually tired of the non-existent views (!) I returned to the col and descended the zigzags turning right at the marker stone onto the lower path downhill. Descending steeply I arrived beside the lake, Glaslyn, and the start of the miner’s track, which I had never been on before, and what a path it is. All the work had been done descending to Glaslyn and now I had a gentle stroll walking past three lakes descending only very gently and most of that was on the earliest part. From the reservoir the path could be taken as an easy Saturday afternoon stroll with the gradient being very gentle and with only gravel under foot. It’s a very nice path, just not a mountain path. Returning to Pen-y-Pass I caught a bus to Llanberis and of course by this time the sun had come out and it was a gorgeous afternoon. C’est la vie.

The Glyderau

Sunday 30th April 2006

The weather for this walk was not so good as the day before with low cloud obscuring the views almost all day. With this in mind my plan of walking up all of the 3000 footers in the Glyders was less appealing, though it was always going to be unlikely in the time as large diversions would have been required to bag both Elidir Fawr and Tryfan in the same day and still end up at Pen-y-Pass. In the end I decided that I just couldn’t be bothered to go to the effort of going up Tryfan, which I had been up twice the year before. I decided I would let time decide and as will be seen there wasn’t the time to go up Tryfan once I reached Glyder Fach, but only because I hadn’t rushed during the day.

I started by walking through the cleft in the rocks near Idwal Cottage, which I’d seen before but never been through. Proceeding from there I ascended the ridge up to Y Garn, beginning with a very steep rocky path and then after a level respite up an increasingly steep scree slope. Eventually the summit was reached and I descended north down another scree slope and on to a fun path that skirts the steep slopes of Foel Goch. Coming around the head of the valley I started the ascent of Elidir Fawr, but soon I noticed a path that continued on the level instead of climbing up to the top of the ridge. Curiosity got the better of me and I followed this path that became fainter though never disappeared even as it negotiated the crags and screes south of Elidir Fawr.

Eventually the path vanished in a mass of loose scree and I decided I would have to climb up to find the proper path. With difficulty I climbed up the loose slates and scree until I reached grass and then on all fours I dragged myself up the hillside until I saw a group of people walking up the path above me. With an effort I climbed onto the path and followed the group to the summit where I’d been only once before, three years before. From the summit I followed the top of the ridge, having tremendous fun on the rocks and perilous drops until I reached the col where I dropped down to my outward path. Following this excellent path I returned to the bottom of Y Garn, but instead of climbing it again I found my way around the western grassy slopes of the mountain to Twll Du, the Devil’s Kitchen. This is a fabulous place where rock is king and the views into Cwm Idwal are stunning. I hung around for ages, hopping from one outcrop to another taking pictures. I didn’t want to leave, but eventually I had my lunch and left Twll Du climbing up the depressing scree filled slopes of Glyder Fawr to the desolate, forsaken summit. The top is a grim, barren place in good weather, but in thick cloud it is gloomy and depressing. I quickly left and made my way to Glyder Fach, which although is also full of rocks and thick fog is for some reason a much more fun place to be. I had a clamber around the rocks on the summit and a look at the cantilever before deciding it was time to head off to Pen-y-Pass. Returning to the col I struck off onto a path that descends across the southern slopes of Glyder Fawr. I took this path by mistake the year before and had to climb steeply away from it onto the summit. This time I deliberately took the path heading south-west across the lower slopes of Glyder Fawr towards the path that descends from the summit to Pen-y-Pass.

This was a terrific walk with the path soon becoming too faint to be seen so I made my own way across the fascinating landscape around a lake (Llyn Cwmffynnon) to Pen-y-Pass. The clouds quickly cleared as I descended, which afforded me with great views all around. It’s astonishing that with masses of people on the main paths there are still stunning places to walk far from anyone else but only a stones throw from the crowds. This was a fantastic end to the walk.

The Carneddau

Saturday 29th April 2006

Only a week after I returned from the Lake District I was heading off on the train again, this time to North Wales to walk up all fifteen of the 3000 foot mountains in Wales. To start I got off the train at Llanfairfechan and immediately started climbing up the hill, joining a track that starts above the village and climbing steadily up into the mountains following a well constructed path that always gains height all the way up to the top of the hill, Drum. From there the track deteriorates into a path that climbs up to the first 3000 footer: Foel Fras, and on the summit I had my lunch before heading off towards the other 3000 footers.

The next is Garnedd Uchaf, a mountain that for a long time was not included in the list of 3000 footers until a new survey revealed that it was higher than originally thought, so instead of fourteen 3000 footers there are now fifteen. This was the third time that I had been to the top of the 15th 3000 footer, but it was the first time I had enjoyed a view. It's amazing how different things look in clear weather; the top looks much smaller when you can actually see it. I remember once wandering around the summit trying to find the highest point, but now there was no doubt that the mass of rocks is indeed the summit.

Next on the list is Foel Grach where during the first time I was there I took shelter in the mountain hut that is near the summit while it rained heavily outside. This time that would not be necessary as I had clear weather when I passed over the top and continued along the ridge towards Carnedd Llewelyn. With magnificent views to the south and awesome cliffs to the north I climbed almost up to the summit, but once above the cliffs I veered off towards Yr Elen, my next 3000 footer. Crossing the edge of the summit plateau of Carnedd Llewelyn I came to the northern end of the mountain and descended to the narrow linking ridge with Yr Elen. This ridge is a fabulous walk with high cliffs on the right and a steep grassy slope on the left. I really enjoyed the diversion across this ridge to the summit of Yr Elen and once the top was bagged I got to do it all over again as I returned to Carnedd Llewelyn.

On reaching the summit I had a look at the fabulous views south and then headed off towards Carnedd Llewelyn's partner, Carnedd Dafydd. The linking ridge between these giants is another great walk with plenty of rocks to clamber over and stunning cliffs to gaze down on the northern side. Eventually the ridge widens as the summit approaches with scree under foot making for slow progress on the steep terrain. Once at the top my eyes turned towards the final 3000 footer of the day: Pen Yr Ole Wen. Crossing this less interesting ridge I came to the summit and the highlight of the day.

There is a path from the summit that goes straight down the hillside to the A5 at Idwal Cottage. I had never taken this path before so I didn't know what I had in store for me, but, oh boy, I do now. This was a bone-crunching, knee-destroying, terrifying descent straight down the mountain. At one point a bit of scrambling was necessary that would have been fine going up, but in descent it was really nerve-wracking. The grips on my gloves were, on several occasions, the only thing between me and a certain fall, but to stop being melodramatic about it I got down okay, even if my knees were aching following the walk. It may have been tricky, but it was a really thrilling descent, which is what it's all about. I just wanted the mountains to keep coming.

However, I may add with hindsight that the descent of Pen Yr Ole Wen had a really bad effect on my knees. My knees were not just aching that evening, but for over a month afterwards so that while in the Lake District a month later my knees were still very stiff and painful. I believe my knees hadn't quite mended from a knock on neighbouring Tryfan the previous year and this descent just brought it back worse than ever. Thankfully my knees eventually mended and left me with no major problems.

Stickle Tarn

Saturday 22nd April 2006

After a week of great walks it was a shame that the final walk of my holiday was such a disappointment. My intention had been to walk to Stickle Tarn and then go up Jack's Rake to Pavey Ark, but the weather intervened. After a week of clear skies the clouds descended thickly and soon after I left the Langdale Youth Hostel I was enveloped in clouds, despite the relatively low height.  All week at the start of my walks I had been listening to an episode or two of the BBC's radio dramatization of The Lord of the Rings and it had been fabulous listening to it again as it almost moved me to tears on several occasions. The early stage of this walk was rather pleasant as I slowly ascended the fells around Silver How and finished the series with the last two episodes, which should have set me up for a good walk, but it wasn't to be.

The clouds had become so thick I soon began to lose interest in the walk. I was making slow progress towards the tarn with only the thought of going up Jack's Rake to keep me going as I had no desire to go up the Langdale Pikes for their own sake, especially in this weather. When I eventually got to Stickle Tarn the clouds were still very thick and I could find no trace of the start of the rake. It was at this point that I despaired of ever doing the rake and gave up all thought of doing any more walking. Sitting by the dam on Stickle Tarn I had my lunch and then made my way down the path beside Stickle Ghyll on the quieter western side of the stream. With my decision made, of course, the weather immediately began to improve, but I was too tired and didn't have the strength to do any more serious walking.

At the bottom I tried to have a look at Dungeon Ghyll Force but found it to be enclosed by high rock walls and shrubbery. Afterwards I walked along the path to the old Dungeon Ghyll hotel where I had a drink and started writing this report while waiting for the bus back to Ambleside. Incidentally, I noticed while on the bus that the Langdale Pikes and the lower hills eastwards were now free of clouds, which is just typical. This was not a good end to the holiday, but while writing the first draft of this report sitting on the train as it approached Oxenholme I didn't really care. I'd had a great holiday, and I wasn't going to let this final walk dampen that idea.

Eskdale to Langdale

Friday 21st April 2006

I had a lot of good days during this holiday and couldn't pick one to be the best, but this walk would surely be a strong contender. All week I had been dreading this day as the original plan seemed to be impossible: walk up the entire length of Eskdale, go over Esk Pike, Bow Fell and the Crinkle Crags, and then walk along the entire length of Langdale. But that is exactly what I did, even if I was rather late getting to the youth hostel.

First thing in the morning I set off up the road along Eskdale as far as Brotherikeld and then passing through the farm I walked along the picturesque valley as far as Lingcove Bridge. Crossing the ancient bridge I climbed up the land between the River Esk and Lingcove Beck gaining height all the time and after passing over Pike de Bield I eventually arrived at Esk Pike and for some reason I really enjoyed that climb. After the early broad sections, the land narrowed to a clear ridge with no doubt as to the route despite only a faint path to follow. I made my own way picking routes that took me over all the higher tops, even climbing straight up the rock fronts of some of those tops. I was in my element, and you couldn't even say it was the good weather as the early sunshine soon clouded over.

Once on Esk Pike I realised I would have to re-evaluate my plans as I had expected to be having my lunch on Esk Pike, but since I arrived before 12.30 I decided that lunch could be had on Bow Fell instead, which was quite a change to be ahead of my schedule rather than far behind! Descending to the Ore Gap I climbed up to Bow Fell, but not by the path. After passing the Ore Gap I left the path and made for the top of the ridge with the goal of gaining a good look at the crags of the Bowfell Buttress. From the top of Hanging Knotts the view was stupendous and it just got better as I climbed higher. Near the summit I stood on the edge gazing out over the Great Slab and the other nearby crags; I remember thinking that the view was 'bowel-looseningly good'. Keeping a hold of myself despite the laxative views I came to the summit and had my lunch.

During my ascent of Bow Fell my eyes had often strayed to Scafell Pike, not simply because it looked grand, but because of the hill fog that was enveloping it and coming my way. During lunch Bow Fell was engulfed in cloud and that curtailed my crag-gazing when I later descended to the Three Tarns and began my assault of the Crinkle Crags. A few days previously when I had re-evaluated this walk in the light of my progress during the week, I thought I would have to leave out the Crinkle Crags, but since it was still early I went over them after all, even though it was cloudy. Once again I was enjoying myself immensely as I hopped from one top to another, rarely going near the path but veering towards the edges to see the views into Langdale which were clear despite the cloud in Eskdale. Eventually I reached the summit that I had previously visited in excellent weather during the hot summer of 2003, though on this day it was rather different with hail and rain to greet me, and heavy clouds lingered in Eskdale, though the tops were beginning to clear. After paying a visit to each top on the highest crinkle crag I made my way down towards to the infamous 'bad-step' knowing that the recent rain will have made the rocks more slippery and treacherous. In the event after all the scrambling that I'd done on this holiday, the bad-step was easily negotiated so it wasn't until after the bad-step that I slipped on a wet rock and bruised my leg. Typical. Passing over the final crinkle crag I descended the hillside towards Red Tarn and then I had a thought. In front of me were two small hills that I'd never been to the top of before and with the weather getting better with every moment this seemed an excellent opportunity to bag them. So despite the possibility that this diversion would make me late in getting to the youth hostel I went up to the top of Great Knott and Cold Pike.

After this digression I was now in a hurry so rushed down the path to Red Tarn and hurtled down the exceptionally steep path to Oxendale Beck. Following this river I passed through Stool End Farm and on to the road at the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel. It was now five o'clock and I had to walk along the entire length of Langdale to get to the youth hostel and would have got there in time if I hadn't accidentally dropped my camera halfway along and not realised what I had done for ages. Dashing back to where I suspected I'd left it I was relieved to discover it was still there. Someone had picked it up and put it on top of a nearby rock but apart from that it was fine. Resuming my dash to the youth hostel I got there 10 minutes before dinner. Luckily this incident hadn't managed to put a dampener on the day, and I was able to get some dinner. This walk had some very fine walking in changeable weather that left me feeling that it was almost a pity I was going home the next day!

The Scafell Pikes

Thursday 20th April 2006

When I got up for this walk it was raining and the forecast was for it to get worse. Wrapping myself up in all my waterproofs I set off with the grim determination to do as much as I could despite the bad weather, but as it turned out the rain soon stopped and with the clouds staying high all day, though not breaking, I had clear, if misty, views. Everyday during this holiday I had clear views from the tops and hardly any rain while walking. I couldn't believe my luck.

When I reached Seathwaite I followed the path beside Grains Gill all the way to Esk Hause. I had originally planned on trying the direct route up to Great End from Sty Head but I decided to give this a miss due to the weather. Passing Esk Hause I went up to Great End and defied convention by actually going to the top of this oft-ignored fell as I also did for Ill Crag and Broad Crag, bagging these three-thousand foot tops that most people would walk on by. Eventually I arrived at Scafell Pike where I had my lunch, though not at the summit, but on the south top where I sat and ate alone away from the crowds. Actually, because of the poor weather the summit wasn't as busy as it usually is, though it was still busy enough.

After lunch I paid a visit to the top of England before heading off to Mickledore with the jaw-dropping Scafell Crag in front of me. Not being able to see any other way of getting across I slithered down the abominable scree in Mickledore before climbing all the way back up the scree to the start of Lord's Rake. I had never done this route before and the warnings of the poor state that it's in have previously put me off, but not this time I was determined to try it, or die in the attempt. Luckily I didn't die, but it was terrifying nevertheless, and the snow in the rake actually probably made things easier. For large sections I was able to walk up the rake on the steps of my predecessors in the snow. Once the terror was over I was rewarded with stunning views of Wastwater and another climb up to the summit of Scafell even though I was still shaking from the adrenaline rush of the rake and could barely move, let alone climb to the top! This had been a really thrilling experience, but eventually I managed to get my breath back and reached the top of Scafell.

After my customary no-pause-whatsoever at the top of Scafell I began my descent into Eskdale. In an attempt to try something different I walked down Long Green and then dropped steeply down the grassy slope to Cam Spout. I had never been to the upper Eskdale area before and the sight of it was really something quite astonishing. Great Moss is a huge open marsh with mountains all around in every direction and is the sort of place that just takes your breath away. Following the path I skirted the moss then headed over the headland around High Scarth Crag and finally down into Eskdale. A brisk walk along the valley bottom brought me to the hostel. This was another great walk, even though I had been feeling rather tired all day. After a week of strenuous walking, the winter layover was beginning to catch up on me. Fortunately I was nearing the end of the holiday.

Pillar and Great Gable

Wednesday 19th April 2006

After raining all night the weather for this walk turned out to be exceptional with clear views and bright sunshine almost all day once the early hill fog had cleared. Making the most of the good weather I did an exceptional walk taking in some brilliant walking and excellent scenery. Leaving Ennerdale Youth Hostel I walked up the forest road for a mile to a signpost marked "Pillar" that directed me onto a path that crosses the river and climbs diagonally up the fellside. After a water-logged start, the path crossed a forest-track and entered an area that had recently been felled revealing an excellent path that ascended the fellside with the Pillar Rock in clear view far above me. On reaching the edge of the plantation I crossed a stile and climbed steeply up a hill beside the stream into Pillar Rock Cove. With the sun shining I toiled away climbing the hill until eventually I arrived at Robinson's Cairn with the Pillar Rock dominating my view.

After a rest I joined the path that comes from the High Level Route crossing the top of Pillar Rock Cove, up a scree slope, and along the Shamrock Terrace. At the top of the terrace the full awe-inspiring terror of the Pillar Rock confronted me. From this close-up view it was obvious that I would never be able to climb onto the top, but that didn't stop me from trying. I didn't get very far before prudence got the better of me and I scrambled back down. Retreating to a safe distance I began the considerably easier scramble up to the top of Pillar with my dignity almost still intact. Finally on the summit I admired the exceptional landscape all around me that the good weather had revealed. All my effort was worth it.

Eventually I started to descend along the top of the ridge, taking my time as I admired the view, staying on top of the ridge all the way, even as I passed over the top of Looking Stead. Soon I arrived at the Black Sail Pass with Kirk Fell in front of me. The last time I was there the weather had been lousy and I had made a direct assault on the Kirkfell Crags following the boundary posts. This time I thought I would try and discover what the proper route was, which appears to be a very steep ascent up scree, I think I prefer the direct scramble! Emerging above the screes I climbed up to the summit following the boundary posts. When near the summit I veered off south in order to get a better view of Wasdale. With a good vantage point found I dropped onto the grass and had my lunch, in the sunshine, with the stunning scene ahead of me.

After lunch I headed up to the summit and then made a course for the secondary summit where I reflected that both previous times I'd been on Kirk Fell the weather had not been very good. It was almost weird to be up there in clear weather and to be able to see one summit from the other. After making my own way across to the other summit I descended to Beck Head where I had a decision to make whether to go straight up or do something different. Well, my original plan had been to walk around the climbers traverse and up between the Napes, so surprisingly that is what I did. In the end I think I started my ascent too early and found myself climbing straight up the White Napes instead of through Little Hell Gate. Undaunted I scrambled around and up to the top of White Napes before climbing up to the top of Great Gable itself. After a good look around from various vantage points including from the Westmorland Cairn I descended to the Windy Gap and up to Green Gable. With time advancing I dashed across to Base Brown and with another Wainwright bagged I started dropping down to the valley floor on the steep eastern slopes of Base Brown. After struggling for a while I saw a scree run to my right so headed towards it, and made like Dorehead Screes sliding down to the bottom of the run. It was fun, even if it does damage the scree in the long run (see Dorehead Screes). Arriving at the fell-wall I followed the fence across the fell to Sourmilk Gill where I took the excellent path down to Seathwaite. The final stage of the walk involved walking along the valley to the Borrowdale Youth Hostel. This was another good walk, but more than that, it was a very memorable walk with brilliant weather and excellent views. I hoped the weather would be just as good for the next day as I went over Scafell Pike.

The High Stile Range

Tuesday 18th April 2006

The weather forecast for this walk was for rain in the afternoon, which considering the low cloud in the morning did not bode well, but in the end the weather was fine for most of the day. Leaving Buttermere I headed straight up the hillside on a heavily constructed path beside Sour Milk Gill. This is a good path but extremely steep and completely wore me out. When I eventually arrived at the saddle near the summit I veered off to the top of Dodd and had look at the stunning view across Buttermere and Crummock Water. Returning to the saddle I made the final ascent up to the top of Red Pike. Soon after I arrived at the summit a large group of people arrived from a different path and I beat a hasty retreat, but as it turned out it was in vain as this group would stay with me all morning.

My first venture for solitude was to go across the hilltop to White Pike on the Ennerdale side of the mountain and from there I headed back across the hill and climbed up to the top of High Stile. As the group joined me I explored the northern promontory walking out as far as was safe to look at the views and take pictures of the lakes below. Returning to the summit I headed off along the ridge, which was now in clouds. Overtaking the group I arrived at High Crag first and once again explored the views from the top of the northern cliffs while the clouds began to lift from all the tops with the weather gradually getting better. Returning to the top I descended the steep scree slope of Gamlin End, which was much easier than I remembered when I came up this way four years before in hot weather.

After stopping for lunch on Seat I crossed the Scarth Gap and began the highlight of the day: Haystacks. I can understand why Wainwright held it in such regard; even with the heavily constructed path up from Scarth Gap, the adventure of the climb still remains. You can't ruin perfection so easily. Once the almost-a-scramble has brought you to the summit the adventure is only just beginning with many rocky tops and views to explore. I darted from one side of the fell to the other eagerly looking at the views and scrambling around on the outcrops. All day the Buttermere side delivered the best views while Ennerdale remained dark and overcast. Pillar dominates the view in Ennerdale, but in Buttermere you have two fine lakes and the whole of the North-Western Fells as a backdrop. Consequently the vast majority of my pictures from this walk are of Buttermere and Crummock Water, however by this point even I was getting fed up with taking pictures of those lakes! Returning to the path I passed Innominate Tarn and onward to the fabulous Black Beck and it's breath-taking view of Buttermere. Beyond Backbeck Tarn I left the path and headed uphill towards Brandreth, but once again I decided to change my plans. My original intention had been to go up to the Moses Trod and then on to Pillar as I wanted to do the High Level Route to the Pillar Rock. However, since it was 3-30 and I still hadn't reached the Moses Trod I once again had to abandon my plan; I had simply spent too much time stopping to look at the views of Buttermere. An idea of walking up to the Moses Trod and then down the valley was also abandoned as being a total waste of time and energy so I halted my madcap charge towards Brandreth and turned down Loft Beck into Ennerdale. Once at the bottom I sat on top of a moraine and admired the view. I don't do this enough: just sitting and enjoying the views. I am always in too much of a hurry, but this time in the Lake District I was trying to explore a bit more and consequently I was not walking as far as I'd originally planned, so maybe all these plan changes are actually a good thing. After a short spell of reflection I set off past Black Sail Youth Hostel and down the forest track all the way to the Ennerdale Youth Hostel. This was another good day that emphasises the need to slow down and enjoy the scenery.

Knott Rigg and Ard Crags

Monday 17th April 2006

The weather at the start of this walk was cloudy, drizzly and very blustery, and although this was not the norm for the day, strong winds persisted throughout to the detriment of the walk, however I still enjoyed it. After surrounding myself in waterproofs I left Honister Hause and headed straight up the hillside to Dale Head where the wind was very strong and clouds surrounded giving me no view. I had originally planned on exploring the Gable Crag below the summit but I had already scratched that idea; the bad weather I found at the top had made this a certainty. After a peer over the edge, I headed off along Hindscarth Edge, only to have the cloud part as I was making my way across and the sun started shining. With Dale Head behind me now, basking in the sun, I decided to take advantage of the unexpectedly clear weather and divert onto Hindscarth where I took loads of pictures of Dale Head and the Newlands valley.

Returning to the edge I headed over to Robinson, but without stopping I descended the steep slope on the other side down to Buttermere Moss. Crossing the marshy ground only as far as Moss Beck I followed the stream to the top of Moss Force, and down the path to Newlands Hause. While I was descending the clouds darkened and soon it started hailing heavily. Ahead of me was a man in ordinary clothes getting very wet as he headed up the path towards me whose objective was clearly the mother and young girls who had emerged onto the moss moments before I started my descent. The family had already begun to return to the road once the rain had started, but the father, clearly concerned for his family, had started following them up at the same time. I found this rather bizarre, even if understandable, behaviour. The family had coats so they were reasonably okay, but the father must have got soaked after meeting them halfway up and coming down with them. All he achieved was to get dangerously soaked to the skin. I don't really understand people...

Once at the road, and with the rain still falling, I began my ascent of Knott Rigg. The rain soon stopped but the wind continued at full strength as I struggled up the ridge, which made it extremely difficult to just walk, let alone in a straight line. After a considerable amount of effort battling against the wind I managed to gain the summit and passing over I aimed for the higher summit of Ard Crags. My original plan (here we go again, I really should have planned this holiday better) was to descend from the summit of Ard Crags to the top of Rigg Beck and to take the path up to Sail Pass and over Sail to Eel Crag. After wearing myself out battling against the wind simply getting up Knott Rigg, the idea of walking all the way up to Eel Crag in this wind did not appeal to me. So another plan went down the drain.

Passing beyond the top of Ard Crags I found a sheltered spot and had my lunch. Away from the wind it was a really nice day, with patchy high clouds and a bright sun. From my sheltered spot I began to wonder what the problem was, however I found out as soon as I stood up! Descending over Aikin Knott I dropped down to Rigg Beck and began my long journey to Buttermere. Ordinarily I would never have walked through this valley and I would have missed this fine path. The narrow path climbs through the v-shaped valley maintaining a point part way up the northern bank and is always interesting hugging the contours all the way up to the top of the pass and then slowly descends above Sail Beck. I had enormous fun on this path and above all I was on my own, which wouldn't have been the case if I had gone up to the top of the fells.

Eventually I arrived in Buttermere and came to the youth hostel, which is a little too family-oriented for me and I felt that it is a pity the way many youth hostels are becoming more family-oriented and not just for walkers, but I suppose it is understandable economically. Anyway, this was a good day's walk even though it was very different to how I had originally planned it, again.