Bruach Na Frithe

Monday 2nd July 2007

After my over-exertions of the day before I was almost relieved to see heavy mist and rain when I got up in the morning so when I caught the bus I only went as far as Portree. My good weather plan had been to go as far as Sligachan and walk up either the Red Cuillin or the northern end of the Black Cuillin. On second thoughts it was a good thing that the weather was bad since a late start to the walk and a requirement to walk into Glenbrittle after the walk would have resulted in another very long day. Under the circumstances a walk was never a possibility so with no reason for me to linger in Portree I caught a bus to Carbost and the Talisker Distillery.

I have gotten into the habit of visiting distilleries when it's raining (they are a handy wet weather option and not just for me as the place was busy); I took the tour and after much debate with myself I bought a small bottle of Talisker. With not much else to do in the area, after lunch I began the seven mile hike in the rain along the road to Glen Brittle, which could have been a horrible experience had I not received a lift from a foreign couple to the youth hostel while I was half way along the road. After dropping off my bag I walked down the valley to the shore of Loch Brittle where I stocked up on food for the week in the campsite shop. Returning to the hostel I gazed at the scenery around about and looked forward to my next three days in the area. Showers were forecast for the next couple of days so my walking was going to be as adventurous as I would have liked.

Tuesday 3rd July 2007

The weather forecast for this walk was bad with scattered showers and even isolated lightening, but instead I had clear blue skies and a gorgeous day for walking; if only I had been able to enjoy more of it. With blue skies to the north but the Cuillin sulking under low dark clouds I started walking along the road until the point where the road begins to climb out of the valley. At this point I took the good clear path that is signposted to Sligachan and climbs over Bealach a'Mhaim where I left the path and headed up into Fionn Choire. My original plan had been to go straight through the middle of the corrie up to Bealach nan Lice, but with good weather around the ridge over Sgurr a'Bhasteir looked too inviting, so I crossed the corrie and climbed up to the col with Meall Ohar.

Now began my first serious climb in the Cuillin as I followed a path on the left side of the ridge before reaching the crest half way up. With an exhilarating look around me at the views I plunged ahead up the ridge into the clouds leaving the north ridge near the top to take easier routes via the north-western ridge. Once at the top I walked along the summit ridge while enjoying the exposure as I went. When I reached the main Cuillin ridge I was struck with awe, for appearing out of the mist was a huge tooth-shaped pinnacle of rock, the Bhasteir Tooth. While getting a closer look at the small top at the junction, I could see that there was an even bigger rock behind, An Basteir, a Munro, but any thought of going that way filled me with fear. Even in clearer weather this might not have been easy to negotiate but in the low cloud the way was totally impassable. I was truly in the Cuillin!

Turning the other way I saw another large peak of rock rising out of the mist, and this one seemed passable for a path could be seen skirting it's northern foot, and I had reason to believe that this top, Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, was scalable by mere mortals such as myself. Crossing to it's foot I scrambled up it's northern face to it's summit cairn. It was a pity there was no view to be had, but the feeling of exposure was enormous. Climbing back down to the foot of the peak I followed the easy path along the ridge to Bruach na Frithe and the trig point, the only one in the Cuillin. During lunch I was rewarded with a clearing of the clouds to the north that revealed stunning views down the north ridge and across the Isle of Skye.

With the improved visibility, after lunch, I started my descent down the north ridge staying on the very top of the ridge as much as possible. And that was when the accident happened. Fortunately the accident wasn't that serious; I was climbing down some rocks when the rock I was holding came away and I swung down into the rock face bashing my right shin into a sharp bit of rock. Upon rubbing my sore leg I noticed that my trousers were getting wet! Pulling my trouser leg up revealed that I had cut my leg open and I was bleeding profusely. Oh, well. Getting my first aid kit out I cleaned, plastered and bandaged my leg. As I said I wasn't seriously injured and I was able to walk down the mountain (albeit by much safer paths) back to Bealach a'Mhaim. These things happen and I was prepared with a first aid kit to treat it, but it could have been a lot worse.

Meanwhile the weather continued to improve and provided me with a warm, sunny walk back down the path to the road and thence along Glenbrittle to the youth hostel.