Eskdale to Elterwater via Bow Fell & Crinkle Crags

Monday 28th May 2007

The weather in the Lake District was changeable again, but it failed to ruin what was another fantastic day's walk. I started by going along the valley road to Brotherikeld and beyond along the valley path into the stunning Upper Eskdale that I had first seen when I was there last year doing a similar walk, but that didn't diminish anything from my experience on this walk. At Lingcove Bridge I had a good look at the many waterfalls, savouring the views around me, and then without crossing the bridge I climbed up beside the waterfalls on Lingcove Beck into the unfrequented Ling Cove below the Crinkle Crags. It is always very satisfying in the Lake District when one can get away from the crowds and experience the landscape in it's raw state without any human scaring. This is difficult to achieve, especially in the Lake District and on a Bank Holiday Monday, but I achieved it for a time in Ling Cove until I climbed up to Three Tarns where the crowds on the other side of the pass climbing the Band were a rather depressing sight after the unspoilt peace of Eskdale.

Although my goal, Bow Fell, was in front of me I turned away from it and headed down the Band myself, but only briefly before turning off to join the direct route from the Band to Bow Fell. I wasn't previously aware of this path as it's not clearly marked on the map, so I was surprised and even a little annoyed to discover it is very popular and in places well-constructed. Back in 2003, when I first went up Bow Fell, I walked up to the summit from Three Tarns and then back down to Three Tarns before going down the Band, but if I had known about this direct route I would have taken that instead. Well, I know about it now. Instead of continuing all the way up to the summit, however, I took the Climber's Traverse, which is a narrow path below Bow Fell's awe-inspiring crags that fabulously clings to the steep slopes, high above Mickledon. The sheer majesty of the surroundings compelled me to just stop, sit down and absorb the awesome surroundings. Below the Cambridge Crag I turned left up a 'river of boulders' between Cambridge Crag and the Great Slab. The enormity of the slab is breath-taking, especially for a rock almost three thousand feet high. At the top I crossed to the summit and admired the stunning scenery all around me (fortunately the weather was clear and bright at that point). After descending from the summit down the scree to Three Tarns I began to climb up to the Crinkle Crags, first passing over the smaller Shelter Crags. On the last Shelter Crag, overlooking the depression to the first Crinkle Crag, Gunson Knott, I had my lunch, and after eating I climbed up to the first Crinkle Crag followed by the second and third before climbing up to the fourth and highest Crinkle Crag.

From the summit I quickly made my way down to the Bad Step (not really a problem for me, I've done a lot worse!) and went up the fifth and longest Crag. Beyond the last of the Crinkle Crags the path deteriorates into a frustrating river of stones. Constructed paths are rarely well-made and this abomination is worse than anything erosion could have produced. At Red Tarn I started climbing again, and this time up Pike O'Blisco. The weather was once again gorgeous, but as the afternoon progressed rain showers were becoming increasingly frequent, often wintry with sleet and hail. Pike O'Blisco was at it's best while I was at the summit where the superb landscape around Langdale could be seen in all its awesome glory. Descending over the wide Wrynose Fell was a simple pleasure that prompted my frequent thought on mountains that there is no better place to be. I was enjoying myself immensely.

At the top of Redacre Gill I left the main path and followed an idea I had got from a poster in the hostel as I headed across the hill in front of Bleaberry Knott. I was aiming for a path down to Blea Tarn but the faint path I was following took me too far north so in the end I had to make a tiring climb back up the hill to a stile in a fence and down the hill, through bracken and a small wood, to reach a road beside Blea Tarn. My onward route up to Lingmoor Fell involved a steep climb that at this late time in the day was excruciating, but after what seemed an eternity I reached the summit of Lingmoor Fell, Brown How, and with all my exertion now behind me I sailed across the top of Lingmoor Fell and finally descended by the zigzags south to Dale End Farm and thence along the track to Elterwater.