Eskdale to Langdale

Friday 21st April 2006

I had a lot of good days during this holiday and couldn't pick one to be the best, but this walk would surely be a strong contender. All week I had been dreading this day as the original plan seemed to be impossible: walk up the entire length of Eskdale, go over Esk Pike, Bow Fell and the Crinkle Crags, and then walk along the entire length of Langdale. But that is exactly what I did, even if I was rather late getting to the youth hostel.

First thing in the morning I set off up the road along Eskdale as far as Brotherikeld and then passing through the farm I walked along the picturesque valley as far as Lingcove Bridge. Crossing the ancient bridge I climbed up the land between the River Esk and Lingcove Beck gaining height all the time and after passing over Pike de Bield I eventually arrived at Esk Pike and for some reason I really enjoyed that climb. After the early broad sections, the land narrowed to a clear ridge with no doubt as to the route despite only a faint path to follow. I made my own way picking routes that took me over all the higher tops, even climbing straight up the rock fronts of some of those tops. I was in my element, and you couldn't even say it was the good weather as the early sunshine soon clouded over.

Once on Esk Pike I realised I would have to re-evaluate my plans as I had expected to be having my lunch on Esk Pike, but since I arrived before 12.30 I decided that lunch could be had on Bow Fell instead, which was quite a change to be ahead of my schedule rather than far behind! Descending to the Ore Gap I climbed up to Bow Fell, but not by the path. After passing the Ore Gap I left the path and made for the top of the ridge with the goal of gaining a good look at the crags of the Bowfell Buttress. From the top of Hanging Knotts the view was stupendous and it just got better as I climbed higher. Near the summit I stood on the edge gazing out over the Great Slab and the other nearby crags; I remember thinking that the view was 'bowel-looseningly good'. Keeping a hold of myself despite the laxative views I came to the summit and had my lunch.

During my ascent of Bow Fell my eyes had often strayed to Scafell Pike, not simply because it looked grand, but because of the hill fog that was enveloping it and coming my way. During lunch Bow Fell was engulfed in cloud and that curtailed my crag-gazing when I later descended to the Three Tarns and began my assault of the Crinkle Crags. A few days previously when I had re-evaluated this walk in the light of my progress during the week, I thought I would have to leave out the Crinkle Crags, but since it was still early I went over them after all, even though it was cloudy. Once again I was enjoying myself immensely as I hopped from one top to another, rarely going near the path but veering towards the edges to see the views into Langdale which were clear despite the cloud in Eskdale. Eventually I reached the summit that I had previously visited in excellent weather during the hot summer of 2003, though on this day it was rather different with hail and rain to greet me, and heavy clouds lingered in Eskdale, though the tops were beginning to clear. After paying a visit to each top on the highest crinkle crag I made my way down towards to the infamous 'bad-step' knowing that the recent rain will have made the rocks more slippery and treacherous. In the event after all the scrambling that I'd done on this holiday, the bad-step was easily negotiated so it wasn't until after the bad-step that I slipped on a wet rock and bruised my leg. Typical. Passing over the final crinkle crag I descended the hillside towards Red Tarn and then I had a thought. In front of me were two small hills that I'd never been to the top of before and with the weather getting better with every moment this seemed an excellent opportunity to bag them. So despite the possibility that this diversion would make me late in getting to the youth hostel I went up to the top of Great Knott and Cold Pike.

After this digression I was now in a hurry so rushed down the path to Red Tarn and hurtled down the exceptionally steep path to Oxendale Beck. Following this river I passed through Stool End Farm and on to the road at the Old Dungeon Ghyll hotel. It was now five o'clock and I had to walk along the entire length of Langdale to get to the youth hostel and would have got there in time if I hadn't accidentally dropped my camera halfway along and not realised what I had done for ages. Dashing back to where I suspected I'd left it I was relieved to discover it was still there. Someone had picked it up and put it on top of a nearby rock but apart from that it was fine. Resuming my dash to the youth hostel I got there 10 minutes before dinner. Luckily this incident hadn't managed to put a dampener on the day, and I was able to get some dinner. This walk had some very fine walking in changeable weather that left me feeling that it was almost a pity I was going home the next day!