Bidean nam Bian

Friday 21st July 2006

After a day off in miserable, wet weather during which I travelled up to Glen Coe, this walk was invigorating and evaporated all my blues and the low clouds that surrounded me. Leaving the youth hostel I walked up to the main road and then on a footpath beside the road all the way into upper Glen Coe opposite the Three Sisters (not that I could really see them, in the low cloud). Following the path past two car parks I dropped down to a tree-sheltered bridge over the River Coe. This path continued steeply up the hillside under trees into the infamous hidden valley. The approach had something of an ethereal quality to it with a narrow, tree filled valley, towering cliffs either side and low cloud. The scenery seemed almost magical in its atmosphere but that was nothing compared with the lost valley itself.

Suddenly without warning I came out onto a wide pebble-filled plain with the misty conditions making the unusual surroundings even more mystical. Beyond the hidden plain the path continued to climb steeply up the valley, seemingly forever. Towards the top the terrain became very difficult with steep scree slopes predominating. After a great deal of effort and with enormous relief I eventually managed to gain the top of the valley where I really needed a rest so I had lunch and was rewarded with a clearing of the clouds ahead of me revealing glorious views down Gleann Fhaolain.

Once satisfactorily rested I ascended the slope east rising to Stob Coire Sgreamhach and bagged the Munro. Returning to the bealach I headed west following the ridge over so many false summits that when I reached the actual summit I passed straight over it and down the other side! Arriving at the western top I studied the map and returned to the actual summit of Bidean nam Bian, the highest point in Glen Coe. Despite the dense cloud I was really enjoying myself as I hopped around from outcrop to outcrop, trying a little scramble down the ridge from the summit and then doing it again on my way back. It didn't bother me in the slightest that I'd walked past the summit or that the mist was thick as the terrain was just too fabulously rugged and craggy to spoil my fun. From the Munro I headed north-east down the complicated, but oh-so-enjoyable ridge to Stob Coire nan Lochan where the clouds lifted to such an extent that stunning views were gained of the upper corries behind me.

From Stob Coire nan Lochan I descended the northern ridge overlooking several stunning gullies. Standing on the edge of these cliff faces and looking down was a very nerve wracking experience, but great fun! Continuing down the ridge I descended into the corrie and once past the cliffs I picked up a stream, which I followed down to the main valley river, which had a clear path beside it. With a sure guide to follow I rushed down the path enjoying the descent, but regretting the end of yet another great walk. Unfortunately as is often the case in Scotland, after the walk proper was over I still had an hour's walk ahead of me in order to get back to the youth hostel, but I don't think there's any way to avoid that (besides bringing my car!).