The Carneddau

Saturday 29th April 2006

Only a week after I returned from the Lake District I was heading off on the train again, this time to North Wales to walk up all fifteen of the 3000 foot mountains in Wales. To start I got off the train at Llanfairfechan and immediately started climbing up the hill, joining a track that starts above the village and climbing steadily up into the mountains following a well constructed path that always gains height all the way up to the top of the hill, Drum. From there the track deteriorates into a path that climbs up to the first 3000 footer: Foel Fras, and on the summit I had my lunch before heading off towards the other 3000 footers.

The next is Garnedd Uchaf, a mountain that for a long time was not included in the list of 3000 footers until a new survey revealed that it was higher than originally thought, so instead of fourteen 3000 footers there are now fifteen. This was the third time that I had been to the top of the 15th 3000 footer, but it was the first time I had enjoyed a view. It's amazing how different things look in clear weather; the top looks much smaller when you can actually see it. I remember once wandering around the summit trying to find the highest point, but now there was no doubt that the mass of rocks is indeed the summit.

Next on the list is Foel Grach where during the first time I was there I took shelter in the mountain hut that is near the summit while it rained heavily outside. This time that would not be necessary as I had clear weather when I passed over the top and continued along the ridge towards Carnedd Llewelyn. With magnificent views to the south and awesome cliffs to the north I climbed almost up to the summit, but once above the cliffs I veered off towards Yr Elen, my next 3000 footer. Crossing the edge of the summit plateau of Carnedd Llewelyn I came to the northern end of the mountain and descended to the narrow linking ridge with Yr Elen. This ridge is a fabulous walk with high cliffs on the right and a steep grassy slope on the left. I really enjoyed the diversion across this ridge to the summit of Yr Elen and once the top was bagged I got to do it all over again as I returned to Carnedd Llewelyn.

On reaching the summit I had a look at the fabulous views south and then headed off towards Carnedd Llewelyn's partner, Carnedd Dafydd. The linking ridge between these giants is another great walk with plenty of rocks to clamber over and stunning cliffs to gaze down on the northern side. Eventually the ridge widens as the summit approaches with scree under foot making for slow progress on the steep terrain. Once at the top my eyes turned towards the final 3000 footer of the day: Pen Yr Ole Wen. Crossing this less interesting ridge I came to the summit and the highlight of the day.

There is a path from the summit that goes straight down the hillside to the A5 at Idwal Cottage. I had never taken this path before so I didn't know what I had in store for me, but, oh boy, I do now. This was a bone-crunching, knee-destroying, terrifying descent straight down the mountain. At one point a bit of scrambling was necessary that would have been fine going up, but in descent it was really nerve-wracking. The grips on my gloves were, on several occasions, the only thing between me and a certain fall, but to stop being melodramatic about it I got down okay, even if my knees were aching following the walk. It may have been tricky, but it was a really thrilling descent, which is what it's all about. I just wanted the mountains to keep coming.

However, I may add with hindsight that the descent of Pen Yr Ole Wen had a really bad effect on my knees. My knees were not just aching that evening, but for over a month afterwards so that while in the Lake District a month later my knees were still very stiff and painful. I believe my knees hadn't quite mended from a knock on neighbouring Tryfan the previous year and this descent just brought it back worse than ever. Thankfully my knees eventually mended and left me with no major problems.