Birkhouse Moor & Catstye Cam

Tuesday 30th May 2006

On my last day in the Lake District during this visit I was once again afflicted with my familiar problem of having a deadline to catch a bus and train, and this time it was a horrible one. My train from Penrith was at 17.36, but a bus from Patterdale doesn't arrive at the station until 17.57 and the previous bus is three hours earlier; I had a 2 ½ hour wait in Penrith or alternatively a long walk north all the way to Threlkeld. The latter option didn't appeal to me (I've done it before, it's long and boring) so I had less than 5 hours to do a walk, before I sulking in Penrith for ages. My choice of walk was solved by the excellent weather: my good weather option from Saturday would be ideal; so once I was all packed I left the hostel and headed towards the foot of Birkhouse Moor.

After crossing Grisedale I headed up over the low hill near Lanty's Tarn and crossed Mires Beck to reach the foot of the north-eastern ridge of Birkhouse Moor. Once in position I started climbing up the ridge dodging the young growth of bracken on the lower slopes; I found there was very little actual scrambling necessary with most of the ridge being up steep grassy slopes and over rocky ledges. It's a great way up a fell if you like going straight up but it's not a classic. Once the tough climbing was over I was somewhat frustrated to discover that a long shallow grassy ascent was still necessary before the summit (really the north-eastern top) was reached. Ahead of me I had a glorious view of Helvellyn flanked by its two edges and it was tempting for me to include the edges in the walk, but I didn't really have time for that. So once I reached the Hole-in-the-Wall I didn't follow the crowds across Striding Edge but headed down to Red Tarn and from there up to the foot of Swirral Edge. Spurning Helvellyn I climbed up to the top of Catstye Cam and enjoyed its stunning views. Turning my back on the tremendous views I started my second goal of the day: the north west ridge of Catstye Cam. This was a really enjoyable descent that just wasn't long enough; I had such a great time following the excellent path as it zigzagged down that I was disappointed by the last bit that seemed rather badly eroded as it plunges straight down a scree slope. I like a well-crafted path, so it was disappointing when this path deteriorated into an eroded mess.

At the bottom of the ridge is an old dam left over from the mining activities that were once so prevalent in Glenridding. In the past it had been standard practice to walk over this dam to cross the stream, but when I reached the dam I discovered that it is now barred with signs warning of its unstable condition. Much aggrieved I descended to and stepped over the stream quickly discovering why the dam has been closed off: there is a big hole in it above the stream. Clearly a particularly violent storm has washed away the lower part of the dam provoking the Park Authoritie's decision to block off the dam, which was understandable, even if disappointing.

Once at the bottom of the valley there remained only to walk past Greenside Mine all the way into Glenridding itself, which I arrived at with enough time spare to have a look around the shops and have lunch before catching the bus to Penrith. Spending 2 ½ hours in Penrith wasn't too tiresome as when other activities were exhausted I sat on the station platform and read a book. I've got to say that despite rain every day except on this walk I had a tremendous time on this holiday. It couldn't have been better, and I'm sure it won't be long before I'm back in the Lake District.