Eagle Crag and Helm Crag

Tuesday 27th May 2008

The weather for my last day in the Lake District was not very nice. After three days of glorious weather (aside from the wind) I woke up to a grey, overcast day with rain in the morning, so the usual Lake District weather. I was however still able to accomplish a walk that I have tried to do on a number of occasions during the past year. I had planned to do this walk in January and was only thwarted by failing to get to the bus station in Keswick on time. This time last year I had thought of walking from the Langdale Pikes across the western slopes of High Raise to Eagle Crag until common sense prevailed as that would have been an utterly pointless route to Eagle Crag. The attraction of Eagle Crag is the seemingly impenetrable cliffs that dominate the Stonethwaite landscape; any other route of ascent would lose the point. Good weather would have been handy for this ascent, Wainwright claims it’s essential, but that didn’t spoil what was a fabulous walk.

After getting off the bus in Rosthwaite I walked along Stonethwaite to the junction with Langstrath, a valley I have walked along just once before and that was in pouring rain (I should make its acquaintance in better conditions). Crossing the bridge into Langstrath I immediately turned off the main path and walked for a short spell beside Greenup Gill. After crossing a second wall I turned right and climbed steeply up the bracken covered slopes beside a wall through the rain that was coming down at this time. Despite the weather the views into Borrowdale were improving with every step until I reached the promontory of Bleak How. Now the fun really began on the ascent as I made my way into a gully on the Langstrath side of the crag from which I emerged on a terrace directly under the crag. Moving right below the crag further into Langstrath I found a series of terraces that I was able to climb and led me all the way up to the summit where I was rewarded with amazing views of Borrowdale and Langstrath. After the wait the climb proved to be great fun, absolutely brilliant, even in the bad weather. I have been eager to do this climb for months because I knew it would be good and it didn’t let me down.

From Eagle Crag I climbed down a short step and made my way along an interesting little path to Eagle Crag’s bigger brother, Sergeant’s Crag. This fell has a notable peak with a satisfyingly small summit that from a distance looks almost pyramidal. Last winter I could see this peak in the distance from High Seat but I had no idea what it was and now know it was Sergeant’s Crag. After these satisfying rocky, heathery peaks I was now relegated to the drudgery of a climb up grassy slopes on High Raise’s north-western flanks. I didn’t go all the way up to the top of the fell though, for once I had topped Long Crag I crossed over below Low White Stones to Greenup Edge and with all the hard work over I joined the bridlepath from Borrowdale to Grasmere on the Coast-to-Coast route. I was now on a route that I have taken a number of times before, though the last time was over two years ago while on my way to Ulscarf.

After crossing the the head of Wythburn I reached the top of Far Easedale where I had brilliant views down the valley towards Grasmere, so with the weather improving I decided to climb up to the top of Calf Crag where I had my lunch, after which I continued along the path onto the fabulous Gibson Knott ridge. I have walked along this ridge twice before (the first time on my very first visit to the Lake District), but always from Grasmere, never going the other way and now having done it this way I think it is better. The scenery across Grasmere is more impressive while descending along the ridge and the anticipation of reaching Helm Crag at the end, probably the highlight of the ridge, adds to the appeal. The path is wonderfully engineered to minimise the effort of going over the many small tops and unlike on previous walks along this ridge that was the way I went this time (I think I was too tired to stay at the top). The path still passes over the summit of Gibson Knott before descending steeply and back up to the infamous Helm Crag, the only Lakeland summit that Wainwright failed to get to summit. On my previous visits I also failed go to climb up to the top of the large rock that sits on the summit, so on this occasion I was determined reach the top (also the sight of Julia Bradbury on the tv seemingly effortlessly climbing to the top made me think I could easily get up there as well).

Unfortunately I am unable to report a successful climb of the large rock at the summit of Helm Crag for just like Wainwright I had to eventually give up and beat a hasty retreat. There were quite a few people sitting around the summit and I think they were why I failed to get to the top. If left alone I think I would have eventually managed it, but I couldn’t help thinking they were looking at me while I failed to climb the rock. Or at least that is my excuse, I just need more time so I will easily be able to get up to the top of Helm Crag next time. Crossing over to the southern top I was easily able to get to the top (what a pity it isn’t the summit) before beginning my descent. I thought it would be interesting to try going down the original path rather than the new constructed path and I’m afraid I have to say the new one is better. The view from the old path is not much better, but it’s really steep and it is difficult to keep a grip on the loose soil. The path was over all too soon, without lingering over the descent, just dropping straight down to the bottom of the valley by the quickest route possible through the bracken that blankets the whole fell. I think in future I’ll stick to the new path that at least affords me with fascinating glimpses of Jackdaw Crag and lingering views over Grasmere. With the descent completed I strolled along the lane into Grasmere where I caught the bus to the railway station after another great time in the Lake District and I have no doubt I will have plenty more to come.

Eskdale and Glaramara

Monday 26th May 2008

Even though I visited the highest point in England during this walk it wasn’t the highlight as that for me was the tremendous valley below: Eskdale, a fabulous wilderness where few people go despite the hundreds who walk along the ridges around it. Despite the good weather and on a Bank Holiday Monday I didn’t see a single person until I was near the top of Scafell Pike. To start the walk I left the Eskdale Youth Hostel and walked up the valley past Taw House into the uninhabited and uncultivated Upper Eskdale. I recently had to name my favourite place in Britain and I said Upper Eskdale and here I was walking into it! It is such a fabulous place, even as I approached Lingcove Bridge, with Bow Fell dominating the view in the background. I have walked into Eskdale this way twice before, last year on exactly the same day (once again enjoying a satisfying escape from the crowds on a Bank Holiday Monday) on my way to Three Tarns alongside Lingcove Beck and Easter 06 when I first ventured into the valley. But on all those occasions I never walked through the Eskdale ravine, so once I had crossed the bridge I climbed steeply up the grass bank high above the young river battling against the strong wind that rushed through the ravine.

The path was great but I couldn’t help wishing that I was on the other bank where a thin path clung perilously half way up the cliff face. The map indicates an intermittent path on that bank and it looked really exciting and challenging, so is definitely a target for another trip to the Lake District. Rising above the ravine I negotiated an eerily quiet area below Scar Lathing where the river turns 90˚ left before emerging into the open expanse of the Great Moss. One would imagine that this area is unbelievably boggy but it was nothing of the sort as a clear dry path led me straight across the middle of the plain. There mustn’t have been much rain in the Lake District recently as the rivers and streams were very low. There didn’t even appear to be any water coming down Cam Spout as the waterfall was dry, and a lot of the other small streams in the area were also dry. Even the River Esk itself didn’t have much water in it, which made the necessary crossing a simple affair. On the other side of the Great Moss, past Cam Spout, I started my ascent of Scafell Pike, right underneath it, less than a mile from the summit but with over 2000 feet of climbing ahead of me.

Ascending very steeply into a shallow cove I followed the dry bed of a stream high up the hill on a climb that from the bottom looked nigh on impossible and often felt it as I stopped frequently to rest and admire the stunning views behind me. After 1000 feet the gradient mercifully and finally eased and I was able to climb the grassy slope up to the rocky peak of Pen overlooking Eskdale. Sitting at the top I was able to survey the tremendous scenery ahead of me with the Crinkle Crags and Bow Fell on the far side of the valley, the Great Moss directly below and the rocky south ridge of Esk Pike between. All this with no one in view but I’m sure there were many hundreds on the summits. Leaving the top behind I crossed into Little Narrowcove and climbed the steep scree to the col where I discovered where everybody was, a never-ending stream of people was on this popular route to the Pike. Joining the crowds I climbed up the last little bit to the summit of Scafell Pike, a mountain I must have climbed many times before since my first time during my first visit to the Lake District back in 2002. The weather on this visit was brilliant with clear views all around me, which has got to be a first for me as previously I always seem to get some cloud at the top, but not this day. I didn’t stay at the summit but made my way across to the quiet south top where I had my lunch in its shelter away from the crowds at the summit while gazing across to Sca Fell and the scenery over Eskdale.

After lunch I crossed the boulder fields of Broad Crag and Ill Crag, and bypassed Great End on my way to Esk Hause, battling against the wind all the way down. This is very familiar territory for me as I have passed through Esk Hause, or the lower pass, on many walks over the years. It was all so comforting to see Great Gable on my left and the Langdale Pikes on my right, both familiar fells that I have climbed many times before and are reassuringly the same as ever. I almost felt at home amongst these friendly giants. Crossing the Borrowdale to Wasdale path I climbed up to the top of Allen Crags, a fell that I had actually been up only once before despite the large number of times I have been in this area. It is an astonishing five years since I last went up Allen Crags and its bigger neighbour, Glaramara, in cloudy weather, which is a great shame as they are fantastic fells with a wonderfully interesting path that links the two together.

Leaving the top of Allen Crags I had an enjoyable walk between the two, but it was a little frustrating as there are many false tops to traverse before you finally reach the real summit. Every time you reach a top another one is revealed that is even higher. I was beginning to think about the bus I needed to catch in Borrowdale so every false top became a source of frustration that detracted from the interesting path. I really wish I didn’t have to think about the time while walking on a mountain as it really detracts from my enjoyment of it when my mind should be solely up in the mountains and the stunning scenery and not stuck in the valley with timetables. After passing over the final false top I reached the true summit of Glaramara where I could look out over the stunning scenery across Borrowdale.

Carefully I scrambled down the north face of the summit crag and made my way across to Combe Head where I braced myself against the wind while I having a look at the stunning views into Borrowdale. When I went up Glaramara five years ago I took the usual way down via Thornythwaite Fell, this time however I wanted to go over Rosthwaite Fell and bag another Wainwright in the progress. There followed a thoroughly enjoyable time as I made my way across the complex terrain finding my own route all the way as there was virtually no trace of a path. The terrain seemed to go on forever so just when I thought I was nearing the end I would climb up another top and discover that I still had a lot more to go and any thoughts of catching an early bus slowly disappeared. Eventually I reached Rosthwaite Cam, a high top in the middle of Rosthwaite Fell, but this was not Wainwright’s top, in fact, all through the walk I had no clear idea what was Wainwright’s top so I found myself having to go up every top around to ensure that at some point I would do the Wainwright. Passing Tarn at Leaves I climbed up to the top of Bessyboot which I had a suspicion may be the Wainwright (it is), but I continued on till I ran out of tops, ending on High Knott.

Now I had the difficulty of trying to get down. I had a vague memory of Wainwright’s route up from Stonethwaite so I tried to get down in that direction but without knowing the exact route I was confronted by impervious cliffs. Despite this I really did try and make a descent from Broad Haystack down the tree-clad, perilously steep slopes until common sense prevailed and I climbed back out of the life-threatening situation onto the fell-top. Cursing myself for not ensuring I knew Wainwright’s route, I decided a possible route down would be on the north ridge and thence heading towards Combe Gill. A short gully helped in my descent and provided me with a route down the cliffs towards Low Buck How and brought me on to the steep bracken covered slopes of the Combe. The crossing of a couple of fences was then necessary to ultimately bring me down to a footpath which led me across the stream and along a farmer's track to the road. This proved to be a great walk, though it was really long and tiring and the ending was more than a little nerve-wracking. I really must make sure I know exactly how to get down if I’m going to take an unorthodox route, but once again I have shown how to avoid the crowds in the Lake District on a Bank Holiday Monday.

The Coniston Fells and Harter Fell

Sunday 25th May 2008

I started this walk early and soon I was venturing into the unknown by going into Coniston. I had been over the Coniston Fells twice before, the first time on my very first visit to the Lake District in 2002. In fact, the Coniston Fells were the first high fells I ever went up so they hold a special affection for me, but despite this I had never until this moment been in the village of Coniston. The reason for this is the presence of a Youth Hostel half way up the mountain that I stayed at on both previous occasions. I walked into the area from elsewhere, stayed at the Coniston Coppermines hostel overnight and then left going over the fells the next day, and never once descended into the village. Now that I was staying at the Holly How Youth Hostel I could see that the village is a quaint little place, especially at half eight on a Sunday morning!

Passing through the village I climbed up past the old railway station and onto the Walna Scar Road. I have previously taken this road from the top of the pass down into Dunnerdale before but never into Coniston. Despite a steep tarmac road on the early section this was a pleasant start to the walk, especially in the lovely weather that was providing me with stunning views over Coniston Water and up to the fells. The tarmac road eventually became a gravel track at a large gathering of cars, despite the early hour, but as I continued to climb more cars could be seen parked by the side of the track. What do people have against a little climb? They will do anything to reduce the amount they have to ascend, including driving their cars off road as far as they can. There was a car park at the railway station and for me that would have been sufficient (if I had brought my car) but I continued to see cars parked beside the track until eventually I reached a stream that was impassable by anything other than a high wheeled four-by-four.

I continued to climb until I reached the Torver Beck where I turned right up a path to the picturesque Goat’s Water. As I rounded the hillside I turned into the face of a strong wind that would continue to assail me all weekend and would be the sting in the otherwise brilliant weather. Putting on my cagoule as protection against the wind, despite the sun, I climbed up the steep scree slope beside Goat’s Water to the bottom of Dow Crag where climbers were beginning to make their ascents up the enormous cliff face. I turned left and headed up the much easier south rake as recommended by Wainwright, which although easier than a rock climb was still quite a struggle but very satisfying when I finally reached the top and clambered up the last little bit and along the ridge to the summit. From the top of Dow Crag I battled against the wind, sometimes unsuccessfully, down to Goat’s Hawse and up to the summit of the Old Man of Coniston where the wind was mercifully not very strong. The scenery from the top of this fell was stunning so I spent quite a while up there surveying my surroundings and taking many pictures before eventually venturing along the ridge over Brim Fell. After passing over the flat dome-like summit of Brim Fell I was struck by the wind again which made onward progress difficult and even unpleasant at times, but as I passed over Levers Hawse the ridge narrowed satisfyingly before climbing up Great How Crags to the top of Swirl How. From there I continued to the top of Great Carrs, passing the memorial to the Canadian Halifax Bomber which crashed there in 1944. There’s not much of it left as only the undercarriage was ripped off on the fell top before the rest of the plane plunged into Broad Slack below, the wreckage at the bottom having subsequently been removed and placed in a museum.

From Great Carrs I continued my battle against the wind crossing the broad plain of Fairfield and up to the top of Grey Friar where, after passing over the top, I found a secluded spot below a crag to have my lunch. After eating I made my descent off the Coniston Fells and away from the strong wind, much to my relief. The Coniston Fells are a lovely set of fells, very much self contained and separate from the other fells, having a character all of their own. They are particularly rugged with the remains of heavy mining below the Old Man a distinctive feature of the area. As I’ve said these were the first Lakeland Fells I went up after my very first day on Loughrigg Fell; I had crossed the Langdale valleys and climbed Weatherlam, proceeding to Swirl How. These were my first proper Lakeland Fells so every time I return to the area I am reminded of that first visit not so many years ago.

Descending Grey Friar I took a pathless route down the south-western slopes of the fell all the way into Dunnerdale, which wasn’t too bad until near the end where I went the wrong way around Little Blake Crag, mistaking it for the much smaller Loft Rigg How. When I found myself at the top of a huge, steep gully I carefully crossed the face of the cliff to the gentler slopes south the crag. With that difficulty over I located the gate into ‘The Close’ and followed the path thence down to Brow Side Farm and the bottom of the valley. A short walk along the road brought me to a bridge over the River Duddon that led me into the great Dunnerdale Forest where a path lead me very steeply up to Harter Fell. When I was there a couple of years ago the trees had just been felled, which had left horrible scars and a bleak landscape. A couple of years on and the hillside hasn’t recovered much with a lot of the fellside still not replanted with the planned mixed woodland so the steep climb past Mart Crag wasn’t through woodland but over the roots of the felled forest.

Eventually I reached the top of the fell where I found several outcrops dotted around the summit, but only one could be the actual summit. The westerly outcrop has a trig point but it’s not the summit, that is in the middle, so despite the strong winds I climbed up to the top of the highest outcrop and surveyed the landscape all around me, especially towards the majestic mountains at the top of Eskdale. Just for completion I also went up to the trig point on the westerly outcrop. When I went up Harter Fell a couple of years ago the weather was bad, so I didn’t go up to the very top of the fell and it was enough for me to just shelter behind the outcrop, and now I was able to correct that. It’s always satisfying to be able to do things like that. From Harter Fell I dropped steeply down the western slopes and pondered my next move. I had planned to simply descend into Eskdale from this point, walk completed, but it was only three o’clock and there were still a couple of hours of  walking time left so when I reached the bridlepath my next target was Green Crag.

After crossing the bridlepath on the edge of Dunnerdale Forest I climbed over the fence and walked across the moorland gradually climbing up to Green Crag. This was another Wainwright that I’d never done before, one that lies on the edge of Lakeland proper, at the start of the great upland expanse of Birker Fell that extends for several miles to the ominously sounding Black Combe (that has to be a target for me at some point). After a rest at the summit I crossed over to the subsidiary crags of the Pike and Crook Crag for a bit of a play amongst the rocky terrain before dropping steeply down to Foxbield Moss and head towards Tarn Crag. The map indicates a right of way on the eastern side, but shows an actual path on the western side. Since I was still on the eastern side I followed the non-existent path on the right of way past Tarn Crag and through the young bracken (this route would be impossible later in the season because of the bracken).

On reaching the edge of Eskdale I was struck by the awesome sight of the mighty valley stretching from the sea right into the heart of the Lake District and much nearer to hand I could see the path that I had scorned earlier and seemed astonishingly well constructed. This green track cleverly zigzags up the valley walls into the fells behind but then disappears, it’s purpose a mystery to me but was clearly the product of a much earlier era (Wainwright reveals that it is a peat road, one of several in Eskdale). The delightful path brought me down to Low Birker Farm at the bottom of Eskdale where a short walk across the river and past the Woolpack Inn brought me to the Youth Hostel. Overall, this was a rather tiring walk, with the wind not making it easy, but it was enjoyable, so even though it felt like a long walk I was still able to enjoy the evening sunshine as I strolled along the road to the Youth Hostel.

Black Fell and Tarn Hows

Saturday 24th May 2008

After a chaotic train journey with screaming kids, tinny music and a train network that can’t keep to a timetable I was back in the Lake District albeit an hour later than planned. Starting from Ambleside I walked up and over Loughrigg Fell immediately enjoying the feeling of being back in the Lakes again (that was once I was away from the crowds and on top of the hills). The weather was great with clear blue skies and bright sunshine so even though I may have been doing a relatively short walk, and I didn’t go very high, it was still great to be out there walking in glorious weather through that scenery. The start of the walk followed a bridlepath that goes from Ambleside to Skelwith Bridge climbing over the southern end of Loughrigg. I have been on this path before, in 2005, but in the opposite direction while travelling from Elterwater to Ambleside on my way to Fairfield and Glenridding. I also climbed this way at the beginning of the year but then I actually went up to the top of Loughrigg rather than staying on the path. Once I was back down in the valley I crossed Skelwith Bridge and embarking on uncharted territory for me, I climbed along the road till I reached a path that enters the fell on the left. This is Black Fell, a Wainwright that I had never been up before because of its isolated position in an area that I have tended to avoid due to it’s over abundance in tourists, and a lack of high fells. I followed a path across the fell to its highest point and branched off left making my own way across the fell to the trig point on the ambitiously named Black Crag. This was a lovely little fell, typical of low Lakeland Fells in its complexity and bracken/heather covering. After taking a few pictures of the surroundings I headed off along a clear path to Iron Keld and thence through the plantation to the Tarns at Tarn Hows. This beautiful lake is a very popular area with older people and young families of whom I saw many, but this is a place that I have never been before because there are no mountains. It is a nice place to stroll around, almost like a park, but it's not really my sort of place; I just can’t shake the thought that it’s artificial and was actually constructed by the Victorians, so it really is just like a city park. The best bit of Tarn Hows for me was actually the path down to the car park which is probably completely natural, following a stream, the Tom Gill, down a steep narrow gully past waterfalls and through dense woodland.

Crossing the road opposite I approached my next target, Holme Fell, but by now the time was getting on because of my delayed start. Fearsome-looking crags on the southern side of the fell that were awesome to look at compensated for my having to give the fell a miss. I could have gone quickly up to the top of the fell and even more quickly dived back down and raced into Coniston, but it wasn’t worth it. I don’t know if it’s because I’m getting older but I am beginning to prefer taking my time and enjoying the surroundings. I still walk quite quickly but I have rushed too many times on a walk and I am getting fed up with it. It’s much better to just enjoy the scenery, which is what I did now as I walked near the road on a good path through lovely bluebell and wild garlic laden woods. This was a wonderful end to a good, short walk through territory that I had never been in before and now, because I had to miss out Holme Fell, I have an excuse to return to this part of the Lake District again.