Friday 22nd July 2005
The weather for this holiday was now stunning and it was set to stay like that for several days which suited me! On this day I left Crianlarich, with I must admit more than a little regret as I had enjoyed my time there; it is a good, quiet hostel without too many people, and with some great walking in the area. By the end of the day I was in the Glen Nevis Hostel, at the foot of Ben Nevis, which is anything but quiet! Before getting there I took a train to Bridge of Orchy and began to climb a steep, sometimes muddy path through the awesome surrounds of Coire an Dothaidh onto the bealach between the two mountains, following Ralph Storer's route number nine from his seminal book, "100 Best Routes on Scottish Mountains". Turning right I headed towards Beinn Dorain, rejecting a path that veers to the right half way up the gentle slope, staying on top of the ridge passing over a false summit until eventually I reached the true summit where extensive, impressive views could be seen around all the area.
After lunch, both for me and the midges (they always find the bit that I miss with insect repellent – in this case on my forehead, under my hat!), I headed south off the peak seemingly into a very quick descent (the sort that ends with a splat at the bottom!), but the path quickly turned 180° to cling to the cliff edge below the summit across the western slopes of the mountain. The narrow, precipitous, and thoroughly enjoyable, path commanded breath-taking views of the valley below that included a train that was conveniently passing by at that time. This turned out to be the path that I had rejected earlier thinking that it couldn’t have gone to the summit. Now in descent I was less weary than during the ascent so I was able to enjoy the path and appreciate the extensive views on this alternative return route.
On returning to the bealach I began to ascend my second Munro of the day across the wide, pathless, grassy slopes. Beinn an Dothaidh is a triple-topped mountain, all of which are on its northern edge with the southern side sloping down to the bealach with Beinn Dorain. I decided to head for the western top first, aiming for a small ridge that juts out from that point. Once this was gained I had a pleasurable stroll along the short ridge to the cairn on the north-western corner of the mountain. The views across Rannoch Moor were awe-inspiring and continued as I strolled along the top of the mountain to the central peak, which is also the highest. When I got to the cairn on the eastern top I paused to take in the view, feeling both supreme satisfaction and a great reluctance to the leave the mountain. The weather was hot, the skies were clear and from my vantage point I could look out across both mountains. It was a glorious sight and reminded me why it was that I walk up mountains.
But unfortunately I couldn't stay up there. I had already missed the train, but I'd planned on catching a bus instead, so with the clock ticking I headed down the grassy (and on its eastern side somewhat boggy) slopes to the bealach. I then descended the path through the corrie back to Bridge of Orchy where I had ten minutes to spare before the bus was due (long enough for a quick drink at the hotel!). The bus went through Glen Coe, which let me see this magical valley for the first time and I was absolutely gobsmacked with the scenery that I could see with the Three Sisters simply taking my breath away. I fell in love with the area instantly and was heart-broken when the bus moved on. From then on I knew where I would be going the following year!
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