Chee Dale and Miller’s Dale

Wednesday 27th May 2020

Instead of a walking holiday in distant places last May I was taking trips into the nearby Peak District every day and returning home at the end, which was at least enabling me to get some good walking in despite the situation. I was returning to areas that I have walked many times before since I was a child, although some of the areas I may not have visited so recently and I was enjoying the reacquaintance. Returning to Monsal Dale I parked at the small Upperdale car park and set off onto the Monsal Trail, which follows the course of the old railway line between Matlock and Buxton which is arguably the most spectacular section of railway ever constructed in Britain. I didn’t stay on the track for long but took a path that descends back down to the river passing under the iconic Headstone Viaduct into the beautiful meadow of Monsal Dale. On previous visits this meadow has been covered in cowslip, and though it was a bit late in the season for cowslip there were still many wild flowers and I had a lovely, peaceful walk through the woodland at the bottom of the valley.

On reaching the A6 road I crossed into White Lodge car park where I noticed the toilets were closed as is the norm at this time, but a bit difficult if you need to go! Heading uphill I veered right into a steeply rising wooded dale climbing towards Taddington Field along a beautiful path. This walk was inspired by one that I had done many years ago, so long ago I’m not sure when, and on that occasion I assume I passed through the village of Taddington, but now I was motivated to avoid human contact as much as possible, so I contrived a route along the paths to the south of the village. The highlight of these paths was a small patch of early purple orchids that I discovered just before reaching the western end of the village where I headed up the hill of Sough Top which is adorned with a transmitter and a reservoir. Continuing west I followed a fence beside arable fields heading in a straight line tediously across Taddington Moor until just before reaching the village of Chelmorton the path enters a strip of undeveloped land that increased the interest slightly before plunging steeply into the village.

I didn’t stay in Chelmorton for long before taking a path that continues the westerly heading across a busy road to take a path north to the edge of a wood where I stopped to have my lunch in the bright sunshine. After eating I entered the wood and was astonished to find myself at the top of a sheer drop, but where the path takes a cunning route that zigzags down the cliff-face and reminded me of a path off mountains, and I loved it. This is Churn Hole and I had never taken this route before having previously continued west into Deep Dale whose path has now been closed because of works associated with the nearby Topley Pike Quarry, but the route I now took avoided all such problems and brought me down to the top end of Deep Dale soon emerging onto the A6 road near the Wye Dale car park. This is near the western end of the Monsal Trail and as I made my way along a wide track through the wooded Wye Dale I passed swathes of wild garlic that decorated the valley bottom and added a gorgeous scent to the air.

At Blackwell Mill the Monsal Trail begins, but I ignored this in favour of the riverside path that a sign warned me is dangerous, which just motivated to head on into Chee Dale. A gorgeously narrow path keeps to the side of the river as the valley passes through a spectacular ravine that is one of my favourite places in the Peak District. Unfortunately it is not designed for the current situation and was also very popular which made social distancing very difficult especially past the people picnicking in the narrow valley. There were many natural delights as I continued along the valley meandering around Chee Tor past places where the ravine is so narrow the path has to use stepping stones on the river’s edge which I remember delighted me as a child and still excites me now many years later. Eventually after passing under the railway line once again the path widens and the scenery through the wooded valley became more peaceful and less dramatic.

When I reached the road into Miller’s Dale I decided that I would not repeat previous visits when I walked along the road through Miller’s Dale but climbed up to the popular railway station on the Monsal Trail passing over the high viaduct and along the old railway line until I reached a footpath that steeply descends to Litton Mill. I now had a spectacular walk through the tranquil wooded vale of Miller’s Dale where I have walked many times since I was a child and brings back many happy memories. When I reached Cressbrook Mill I climbed back up to the Monsal Trail to walk for a short distance to the point where I had joined the trail at the start of this walk, a short distance from my car. The weather was very hot on this walk which is very draining but I was walking on some spectacular footpaths that must be amongst the best in the country and are certainly one of my favourites, but are unfortunately not really designed for a pandemic.