Lathkill Dale

Tuesday 26th May 2020

For my next walk in the Peak District at the end of May I parked in the Moor Lane car park near Youlgrave, which was where I’d parked twenty-two years ago and I proceeded to do almost exactly the same walk that I did then during my first ever walking holiday. I set off from the car park along the Limestone Way across a couple of fields and past Calling Low before descending steeply into Cales Dale. I could see Lathkill Dale to the north teasing me with the many delights to come including Limestone crags that looked really inviting but I was putting off that pleasure for a while. After descending steeply into Cales Dale I climbed steeply out of Cales Dale on a fabulous, rocky, little path that brought me to One Ash Grange Farm and on the other side of the farm is a sign that directs a path towards Lathkill Dale. This is the route that I have taken on previous visits, but on this occasion I kept on the Limestone Way until I reached the top of Fern Dale where I turned onto a path that is now marked on Ordnance Survey maps as being permissive through the shallow valley to the top of Lathkill Dale. Small limestone outcrops line the short valley and provided me with a foretaste of what was to come.

Turning right into Lathkill Dale the pleasures started immediately as I remembered the last time I was in this valley, in March 2017. The valley at this point is so narrow and sheltered there was still ice then at the bottom, which was not a problem now as I made my way along the fabulously rocky path between narrow limestone cliffs through the tremendous ravine. Soon the valley opened out, but the wonders continued as I made my way to the cave where the River Lathkill emerges from its subterranean adventures, though after two months of almost no rain the river was dry. In 2017 the river had been overflowing but not so now and I remembered pictures that I had taken then of the valley at this point and tried to take a similar picture from the same point to contrast the changing conditions of what had once been a broad, flowing river but was now an overgrown, dry valley floor. Eventually a trickle of water started to appear until by the time I reached the turning into Cales Dale there was a proper river passing under the footbridge that leads into the valley.

As trees became more plentiful the path became easier to walk upon and it was a pleasure to stroll along this beautiful valley that is overflowing with wild flowers. It was really relaxing to slowly meander down the path soaking in the stunning, natural surroundings of this gorgeous valley until eventually the terrain opens out to become, to me, less appealing as the river passes over a series of weirs. Many people were taking the opportunity of the broad, grass banks to enjoy the sunshine while I kept my distance staying on the path and continuing downstream until I reached Conksbury Bridge. Across the bridge and up the road a short distance I continued along the footpath, though soon stopped to have my lunch sitting well clear of the path and looking out over the stunning scenery across the valley. Resuming my walk along the bottom of the valley I eventually reached Alport where I finally left the River Lathkill and entered the valley of the River Bradford. This valley is very different in character to Lathkill Dale without the extravagant wilderness that is the crowning glory of Lathkill. The path through the valley initially crosses the river several times and I had to keep consulting the map to check which way I needed to go to maintain the walk.

Eventually the terrain becomes more wild and wooded as the river passes over a series of weirs until all too soon I came to a bridge that marked my exit from the valley. If there is a fatal flaw with this walk it is that it starts and ends at the highest point so I now had to climb steeply out of the valley. Ideally one should always start a circular walk from the lowest point so you are not climbing at the end of a tiring day; however the effort was very rewarding as I was ascending through some stunning woodland scenery along a fabulous old path. On reaching a road I turned right and after passing Lomberdale Hall resumed the ascent through a field full of wild flowers, most notably early purple orchids, until eventually I reached the car park. Another problem with this walk is that it is too short as I reached the car before two o’clock, but it had still been a very satisfying walk and the high temperatures meant I was more than happy to stop before it got too hot.