Tuesday 30th August 2022
After missing out many miles on the Offa’s Dyke Path as it crosses the plains of the Severn Valley, I was keen to pick up the trail again at the earliest possible point and the best way to do that was to use a bus, so I parked in the long stay car park for the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct and caught a bus to Oswestry. The first thing that I needed to do was find a toilet and the second was to find some drinking water as I’d forgotten to fill up before I left the campsite. Public toilets were easily found but there was not a drinking water tap there, which was really frustrating, so I walked out of Oswestry without filling up with water (I refused to buy bottled water). The Offa’s Dyke Path is more than two miles from the centre of Oswestry so, using my not very helpful Harvey Map of the trail and Google Maps, I followed the correct road out of Oswestry and through the delightful parkland of the Llanforda Estate where grand old trees stood proud amongst the grassland. Eventually I reached Candy Woods where I soon came across Offa’s Dyke Path and turned north to steadily climb along a broad path with a steep drop to my left into the Morda valley below and the ancient earthwork of Offa’s Dyke to my right. This was a lovely walk through woodland that was being shown at its best by the dappled sunshine of another day of fabulous weather.
I had planned to walk through these woods the day before, on one of a number of short walks planned that, except for Llanymynech Rocks, were all abandoned in favour of spending a few more hours in the Shropshire Hills, so it was great to be able to find a way to incorporate them into my schedule. At the end of the wood was an old racecourse, although there is very little of it left now as it is long time since abandoned, but harebells decorated the site and it was pleasant walking. All too soon I came onto a road that I was forced to walk along for far too long and things didn’t improve afterwards as I walked through grassy fields with the dyke alongside. My tedium was caused by the uninteresting terrain underfoot and views that were heavily restricted with the best being a long distance away, far to the east across the plains of North Shropshire. The trail improved slightly as I climbed Selattyn Hill, but avoided the summit although an information point directed me towards the tower that sits at the top of the hill. I resisted the temptation and kept to the trail heading back down the hill along a green lane with tantalising views north. After crossing the Craignant valley and climbing the hill opposite my views now included Chirk Castle and also the extensive but tedious Cheshire Plain.
I felt I was walking on the edge of upland, while the rather flat countryside of England was just to my left and I wished I could see to my right into Wales where there must be lovely hills, but the terrain just rose to higher hills that blocked my view. The Offa’s Dyke Path was keeping to the Welsh border at this point, but when I reached the bottom of the beautiful valley that carries the River Ceiriog the border turns east to follow the river. The trail crosses the border many times while on its course north from the Severn Estuary to the Irish Sea, but this was the last time it crossed the border and from now on the trail stayed in Wales all the way to the sea at Prestatyn. The official route of Offa’s Dyke Path turns left after crossing the valley but a summer variant climbs the hill to reach the National Trust property of Chirk Castle. I was not interested in visiting the castle so after climbing up to the top and taking a look at the extensive views north I headed down the driveway north, but I should have gone west so when I realised I turned left at a crossroads to reach the car park where I was able to take the correct path through parkland to reach a road and the official route of Offa’s Dyke Path.
The official route may actually be better, especially in spring when wildflowers can be seen in the woods, but from this point on I had a rather tedious walk along roads and occasional paths as I slowly descended into the Dee Valley. After crossing the busy A5 road I walked alongside Offa’s Dyke for the last time on the Offa’s Dyke Path before reaching the Shropshire Union Canal (Llangollen Branch). I now had a pleasant walk beside the canal through Offa’s Dyke as it drops through the canal and down to the River Dee, and continues north passing just to the west of Wrexham while the trail heads towards Llangollen. My walk along the towing path of the Llangollen Canal took me past Froncysyllte Marina and out to Pontcysyllte Aqueduct. I previously crossed this in 2007 while returning home from Snowdonia. I don’t remember what it felt like then, but it was very scary now, especially while passing the many people who were coming the other way. Although there is a guard on one side, there is nothing into the canal or on the far side and the aqueduct is very high. I am not good with heights and even just taking a picture towards the distant Chirk Aqueduct felt as though I was taking my life into my hands, so I was relieved when I finally reached Trevor Basin on the other side of the valley.
The official route of Offa’s Dyke Path actually takes to the road, descending into the Dee Valley and for those without a head for heights it is much better. At this point I left the trail for the day and walked the short distance back to the large car park where I had left my car. The weather for this walk was fantastic, which compensated for the frequent periods that lacked interest. My main criticism of this walk was a lack of good views with the best being east towards the plains of Shropshire and Cheshire, which were extensive but dull. However, the sunshine made the walk an enjoyable day.
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