Tuesday, 11 December 2007

West Highland Way, part 6

Monday 19th July 2004

I had finished the West Highland Way at last, and all I wanted to do now was be able to do some real walking up a mountain. I started my last day on the trail by having breakfast at a nearby inn, which was a very nice place and the breakfast was very tasty. The start of the West Highland Way was a very steep climb through midge-infested woods, which I did not enjoy. Midges have been the worst thing about the trail as even though I did have insect repellent with me, I was most often attacked while I asleep. I had bites in many places but they weren’t gained while walking. The worst places were while walking at the foot of Ben Lomond (between Rowardennan and Inversnaid) and at Kinlochleven, but in the evening anywhere could be bad if you left a window open. It made me wonder how the locals coped, or maybe they're just tough Scots!

The walk joined the old military road through Lairigmór around the side of the valley past the ruins of the Lairigmór house. This part of the Way was a little dull and hard-going under foot with many large stones to walk on until eventually I entered a wood, but not before the weather threw up one of it’s best ones as the early rain cleared and the sun came out leaving me so hot I had to take my waterproofs off, only for it to cloud over within minutes and start raining again. Typical Scotland! The walk through the wood was varied and sometimes interesting but it was just too long so it was with some relief when I eventually emerged on the other side to face the Ben. I was planning on walking up Ben Nevis the next day, but I was not really looking forward to it as I was worried about how difficult it would be. I didn't really want to do it but I guess it is just one of those things you have to do. The weather may not be brilliant for it, but I hoped I would be able to cope.

First though, I had a walk to complete. Wearily I made my way along the road into Fort William and the end of the West Highland Way, but there was no fanfare or welcoming reception for me when I reached the end, beside a busy roundabout. This was my first proper long-distance walk and I was not impressed. I think I’m a much better designer of walks so maybe in future I’ll just do my own. In Fort William I looked around the tacky Highland Centre and bought a card for the parents, plus a miniature bottle of Ben Nevis Scotch. I wonder how many more miniatures I can collect? In the centre of Fort William I bought some food for dinner and lunch for the next day when I was planning on going up Ben Nevis, whatever the weather.

Sunday, 9 December 2007

West Highland Way, part 5

Sunday 18th July 2004

The weather for this walk on the West Highland Way was much more changeable than the earlier days, at one moment it would be raining, and the next the sun was shining, consequently my waterproofs stayed on almost all the time. I didn’t leave the West Highland Way Sleeper particularly early because I stayed for breakfast on the station and then once I did get started I didn't go very quickly as I just couldn’t get comfortable! This is very important when walking and I was just not able to feel right, which was made worse by insect bites in just the wrong place and straps that wouldn’t go in the right place. Add to that, for some reason, I had decided to wear my fleece even though the day before I hadn’t worn it, but it had seemed like a good idea at the time. So why did I put the fleece on now? Eventually I took the fleece off and never looked back as I raced past Inveroran Hotel and past the great desolate area of Rannoch Moor. This is an awe-inspiring place, so it is a pity that the path was so busy. 
 

After lunch on the bridge by the Kingshouse Hotel I headed towards the top of Glen Coe surrounded by absolutely stunning scenery that is dominated by the blunt end of Buachaille Etive Mór. At the bottom of the Devil’s Staircase I took my waterproof coat off, stripped down to my t-shirt and raced up the staircase. I timed myself and I took just half an hour, and it didn’t start raining until I got to the top, which was nice of the weather. With my waterproofs now back on I headed down into Kinlochleven on terrain that I can finally describe as real walking, as it is the sort that I’m used to finding in the Lake District. I was hoping for a chance to do some proper walking up a mountain later in this holiday, but the weather on this walk was not too good, so maybe in the second week of my holiday I would find some good weather. Meanwhile I spent the night at the Blackwater Hostel and then I would have just one more day of the West Highland Way to go.