West Highland Way: Kinlochleven to Fort William

Friday 27th May 2022

After starting the West Highland Way at the half way point in Crianlarich, I was now on my third and last day on the trail and although I had not intended on sticking to the trail, poor weather had prompted me to do so. Overnight in Kinlochleven there had been strong winds and heavy rain while I was camped at the Blackwater Hostel, which was so full they were turning people away and many of those appeared to have wild camped in the woods just outside Kinlochleven. I have memories from 2004, when I first did the West Highland Way, of the strenuous climb through the woods out of Kinlochleven, but now as I followed the hordes of people on the trail it didn’t seem too bad. The rain failed to detract from my enjoyment of the views that appeared as I climbed across Loch Leven and back over the trees towards Kinlochleven, but the large numbers of people did spoil the walk as it was often difficult to get around them on the narrow path. Eventually I emerged out of the woods and joined the track that I remembered walking in 2017 after coming down from Loch Coire an Lochain and passing Mamore Lodge. Since 2004 I have returned to this final stage of the West Highland Way several times having done it again in 2012 searching for an easy walk while staying in Glen Nevis and I returned again in the aforementioned walk of 2017.

On that occasion I had diverted off the trail towards Beinn na Caillich and Mam na Gualain on a ridge to the south of the West Highland Way and I remember the path down to the bridge over the Allt Nathrach being very muddy, but now I could see that the path has been greatly improved. For this occasion I had planned to come off the trail to climb north on a path into Coire na h-Eirghe, but strong winds and generally poor weather stopped that idea and once again I was forced to stay on the West Highland Way. Unfortunately the trail at this point is very tedious as it follows a wide, stony track through a broad, featureless valley that is empty of any redeeming features. Steep slopes to my right disappeared into the cloud-covered high mountains of the Mamores while to my left was the lower ridge that I had climbed in 2017. There were no trees or buildings in the valley, which was a stark contrast to the beautifully wild landscape around Loch Leven where there are many trees. Slowly, I followed the many other people on the trail over the pass and through the fords that litter the path at that point, which was not a problem for me, but it was funny seeing everyone else trying to cross the streams without getting their feet wet.

After passing the ruins of Lairigmór and the point where my route of 2017 came back down from the ridge, I followed the track as it turned north and entered an area of cleared conifer plantation that is being allowed to regenerate naturally. Eventually I came off the wide, tedious track onto a much more interesting and narrow path that undulates around the hillside and through natural woodland. At one point, in a sheltered ravine over the Allt Coire a’ Mhuilinn, I encountered something I hadn’t yet seen on this holiday: midges. These were very early, but heralded the start of the seasonal invasion of these ‘wee beasties’, but fortunately it would be a while before they would overwhelm everywhere. The path was very narrow at this point, so if someone was particularly slow, then a long queue of people would soon develop behind them and I found myself in one such line, so when I found an exposed location, free of midges, I stopped to have my lunch and admire the view across the former conifer plantation, now a regenerating landscape.

Ahead of me I could see the steep slopes of Ben Nevis disappearing into the clouds while behind me I could see glimpses of blue sky as the sun tried to break through and brighten the day. After eating I continued along the excellent path that descends into the corrie at the head of the valley before climbing up to the pass into Glen Nevis. On reaching a broad forestry road, I knew that the interesting walking was over and also that it was downhill all the way into Glen Nevis, but I was pleased to see that even in Glen Nevis the non-native conifers were slowly being removed and replaced with native deciduous trees. It was just a pity that I had to walk on a wide forestry road, though the views down Glen Nevis towards Fort William were ample compensation as the weather slowly improved. However, I wasn’t in a hurry to get to Fort William so when I reached a junction on the forestry road, I turned right instead of left and followed a branch of the West Highland Way that goes to the Youth Hostel and campsite in Glen Nevis. On previous occasions I have stayed at the Youth Hostel, but I usually find that full of tourists so this time I went to the campsite and put up my tent.

The weather was now sunny and I hoped it would stay that way for the rest of the day, so I got my sunglasses out and went for a walk down the valley towards Fort William, but I didn’t need the sunglasses as the sun didn’t stay out for long and soon it started raining again. I have many happy memories of time spent in Glen Nevis, though the last time I was there was in 2017 so I was glad to be back and enjoy the fabulous scenery. The weather was very changeable during these three days on the West Highland Way so if I had planned to go up mountains on those days, the weather would have ruined everything. Instead, even though I had not intended on staying on the West Highland Way, I enjoyed the experience, but I did not enjoy the vast numbers of people on the trail, which was at its worst on this day. I have increasingly been enjoying long distance trails, especially as they are immune to the weather, and despite only being on the West Highland Way for three days, I really enjoyed it.

West Highland Way: Victoria Bridge to Kinlochleven

Thursday 26th May 2022

At the start of this day I was camped inside a conifer plantation in the valley of the Abhainn Shira and once I had packed up I set off back down the valley under sunny blue skies that had me checking the weather forecast because I had expected rain, which wasn’t too far away. On reaching Forest Lodge near Victoria Bridge I turned left onto the West Highland Way to resume my trek that had started the day before in Crianlarich. Initially the trail passes over cobbled stones that were quite slippery in the damp conditions, but soon became the usual gravely track as I left the trees behind and ventured north across a vast landscape. To my right I had far-reaching views across the bleak Rannoch Moor while to my left rose the high peaks of the Black Mount. When I was previously on the West Highland Way in 2004 I had looked on those mountains with longing, so when planning this holiday I decided to go over them taking in Stob Ghabhair, Creise and Meall a’ Bhùirigh, which is a walk I have wanted to do for a long time. However the weather forecast was poor which prompted me to stay on the West Highland Way and soon it started to rain which didn’t stop until I reached Bà Bridge.

There the sun came out, which gave me fabulous views across Rannoch Moor and up into the mountains that surround Coireach a’ Bà with the narrow ridge, seen end-on, of Sròn nan Giubhas looking particularly striking. I was surprised to see that the mountains were clear of clouds, which made me want to be at the top of them, although the strong winds would have soon taught me otherwise. The sunshine was welcome as I enjoyed the views in all directions while slowly climbing to the pass near Beinn Chaorach where it started raining again. On the descent Buachaille Etive Mór brooded under dark clouds even while Rannoch Moor behind me basked in sunshine. Strong winds attacked me all the way down so when it started raining heavily as I approached King’s House the conditions felt horrible which prompted me and several other walkers to find shelter beside the Inn. I took advantage of the prolonged stop to have my lunch and I didn’t leave until it had finally eased allowing me to set off along the old military road. This stony path took me slightly uphill below Beinn a’ Chrùlaiste and past Buachaille Etive Mór on the other side of the valley near to the top of Glen Coe. It is a shame that the West Highland Way doesn’t descend Glen Coe as that is a delightful valley that I regretted not stopping in to enjoy its delights again.

Instead, I followed the West Highland Way up the infamous Devil’s Staircase as it snakes up the hillside to the highest point on the trail. I remember zooming up this path in 2004 under good weather, but on this occasion it soon started raining again and I was carrying a heavier load (and I was eighteen years older!). After the wide, flat tracks that dominate the West Highland Way, it was great to have a proper mountain path to climb and on the other side I found an excellent path that was a joy to take especially while the sun was shining and I was sheltered from the wind. When I turned a corner at the foot of Sròn a’ Choire Odhair-bhig I was again exposed to the westerly winds, but the views were unimpaired as I rejoiced at the sight of the mighty Mamores range of mountains across the valley and marvelled at how much better the West Highland Way seemed than I remembered from 2004. I was particularly taken by the views into the valley of the River Leven that seemed to be full of trees and made me yearn for Scotland to be more like that. My heart ached for the beautifully wild scenery as I slowly descended onto the access road for Blackwater Reservoir.

The woodland scenery compensated for the wide track that I was slowly descending and so I had a very enjoyable descent all the way from the top of the Devil’s Staircase down into Kinlochleven. Such is the excellence of the signage on the West Highland Way I did not feel the need the consult a map at any time during my two days on the trail from Crianlarich until I reached the River Leven just outside Kinlochleven. I was at a junction, but there was no sign indicating the correct direction. Instead I was confronted by a vast array of adverts for accommodation including the Blackwater Hostel that I had stayed at in 2004. On that occasion I turned left following the sign for the hostel, but the West Highland Way actually turns right, upstream, away from Kinlochleven for a short distance to a bridge, but after crossing over there were still no signs for the West Highland Way. After walking along a road for a short distance I consulted my map and realised I had missed a turning. My Harvey Map indicated that the West Highland Way follows a muddy little path beside the river, but other maps that I have checked since say the road was actually correct.

Eventually I reached the bridge that carries the main road in Kinlochleven over the River Leven and there I finally found a sign for the West Highland Way, but having reached my destination I turned left to go to the Blackwater Hostel that I had stayed in eighteen years ago, although this time I was camping there. Fortunately I had booked two days earlier as the hostel, even just for camping, was full, which is a reflection of the enormous popularity of the West Highland Way. All the time I was on the trail there were people not far ahead of me and others just behind me. I was never on my own, which is one reason why I didn’t need a map: you just followed everybody else.